Hey guys,
I screwed up and I was hoping someone could help me out.
Yesterday I pulled the WPC-89 driver board out of my Doctor Who to try to troubleshoot the issues I'm having in my BoP rebuild. So after I realized the 2 weren't compatible I decided since it was out I'd touch up the solder on the back of said WPC-89 board; which I did.
I reflowed all the solder on all the connector pins and the fuse holders and the heat sinks and I reinstalled it.

Well here's what happened when I turned it on:
The coils were all firing at once, and the DMD said "CHECK FUSES F114 & F115". I also cannot start a game.

I did and neither were blown...
Now I'm at a loss. I rechecked all the soldering I did and there doesn't appear to be any solder points touching but before I go any further I was hoping someone could point me in a clearer direction.
BTW, I installed a Rottendog Driver board just to make sure the issue was with the driver board I reflowed and the game worked perfectly with the RD board... So the problem IS contained within the WPC89 driver board.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

ERIC

I realize ALL this.

I was hoping someone had a good starting point.

Yeah, I've actually already done that. I've gone over every single thing I soldered and can't find any shorts.

There may have been one on the pins that connect the Driver board with the CPU board but I cleaned that up first thing and the problem still persists on THIS board.
The only other places a solder bridge might have formed is under the connector where I can't actually see. That seems unlikely to me though.

I'm not posting because it just happened. I've been trouble shooting this since yesterday; I'm posting because I've already run through what I thought were the obvious things to try.

I'm wondering since the game gave me the "CHECK FUSES F114 & F115" if that would indicate anything specific was blown on the Driver board. Since, it would appear to me at least, that the game is being told those 2 fuses are bad when they are not.

Ok, great, thank you. That's really good advice, I appreciate that.

I forgot to mention that I don't appear to be getting anything from the 12V test point. It's actually coming up on my DMM as .92v.

So would it be safe to assume I can narrow down the issue to circuits that involve the F114 & F115 fuses? Or no?

I replaced the connector pins on the board to be sure and I still get the same issue.

No.

But the other voltages came up like they should.

No not every coil.
The ones in the time expander, the ball plunger coil and both coils used to load the balls into the trough & then the shooter lane.

Yes, game boots fine. But won't play.

Ok, I didn't have much time at all to work on this yesterday but with what time I did have I reinstalled the board into the game and verified there was no 12V at TP3 and no LED indicator either. It would appear that the transistor at Q2 is testing good.

Ok so I had a chance to work on it a little this morning.
I tested the continuity between the 2nd leg of Q2 to pin 1 of J114. D1 & D2 seem to check out ok too. While going over the pinwiki info it seems that even if the continuity checks out the LM7812 can still be bad so I'm going to replace that since shockingly they are actually available at my local Radio Shack!

I'll update this with what happens.

Thanks for that tip.
I've checked all the traces from the BRs and there's no issues that I can find.

Hopefully replacing the Q2 will fix the issue... we'll see.

Replaced Q2 and still no change.
Going to have to keep digging.

Ok, figured it out! It was a bad diode at D1! I thought I had already checked D1 but i actually checked D3... D1 is nicely hidden behind one of the caps.

The only issue that remains is now I am getting a switch error on the trap door. And it won't register in the Switch Test either.

Figured out the error.
Thanks for all the help guys
I really appreciate it!!!

ERIC

Definitely!