I believe he specifies in the instructions which specific speakers to buy. Doesn't look like the correct ones Or I believe you have to remove the cross bar frame from the Stern speaker plate and loose the stand offs.

Its actually really simple to remove the griddle bars from the speaker plates. I used a Dremel with a cut off wheel and only took a few minutes. Technically a good pair of side cutters would work just file the corner so its not sharp. As you wont see the cut with the plate it should be an easy task. Good luck.

Not sure who provided those wood spacers but they are not part of the batman speaker light kit or the flipper fidelity speaker kit. Those are more then likely home brew from someone that bought the FF speakers without the correct plastic spacer rings. They offer them with or without rings.

Yep. I have that info linked to on my website with a bold red IMPORTANT next to it so buyers can see that before purchasing the Speaker Light Kits. As stated, I do offer replacement speaker plates that have the bars already removed from the speaker holes for aftermarket speaker users to use with my SPIKE 2 (type 11 and type 12) Speaker Light Kits if they don't want to cut the bars out themselves.

My SPIKE 2 (type 11 and type 12) Speaker Light Kits make the speaker plates set back 1/2" deeper in the speaker panel mount. That makes it so there is no room (on the right side) to also have a spacer between the speaker and the speaker plate. The upgraded speaker needs to mount directly to the speaker plate and the extended tweeter (if it has one) needs to go through the hole in the speaker plate on most upgraded speakers.

I saw another person post that they had recently got some speakers from FF with these older type spacers. They did use the separate wood ones in the past.....maybe FF went back to using them again?

If anyone has any questions about my Speaker Light Kits....feel free to e-mail: [email protected] and I should be able to help you out.

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

From looking at your picture...my first suggestion would be to put the nuts on that hold the speaker plate in place. You can't really expect things to work / close correctly when you aren't finished with attaching everything...

If that doesn't correct things, my guess would be you knocked the bottom of the panel loose when doing your speaker hole bar snipping. The panel should be pushed all the way in (toward the backbox) when the bottom hex posts are tightened down on the light frames. Also, as I mentioned to you on another thread, make sure the flat part of the hex nuts that hold the panel hinge to the bottom of the backbox are running parallel with the speaker plates, as opposed to the point of the hex nut pointing at the speaker plates. This should allow the panel to close as smooth as possible. The plates will probably still rub the nuts when closing (and make it close a bit more stiff), but the speaker plates should slide in front of the nuts and the panel close just fine.

Glad to hear you got things settled.

My apologies never seen that before having purchased several FF speaker kits. Learn something new every day! Speaking of, I added the Spike 2 speaker light kit from Doug on my Beatles and it looks simply Awesome! Love the hippy psychedelic 60’s spinning lights for this theme absolutely perfect. Love them.

Yeah, I was thinking FF going back to the standalone spacer blocks was a new thing. I like it! I kinda expect he still sells the speakers with the attached rings, but if a person says they don't want the spacers attached (are using speaker light kits).....he is probably including the wood spacers. I don't know though, maybe he has stopped using the attached spacer rings on all of his SPIKE speakers.

Thanks for the kind words on my Deluxe SPIKE 2 Speaker Light Kits. Beatles, Aerosmith and Guardians of the Galaxy all seem like good games to pick those multi color patterns on the light kit controller.

It seems the metal hex standoffs that FF includes snap off easily if people over-tighten them. He includes extras just for the folks that don't know their own strength. That just goes to show if people are going to over-tighten their nuts, it doesn't matter if the posts are nylon (more expensive) or metal (less expensive) they are going to screw up either kind. I went with the nylon hex standoffs as bridging a metal standoff across the front of a LED light strip can cause issues if things land in the wrong place.

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

Those games all sound good but in My opinion the Beatles should have Come with these awesome lights from the start. I like speaker lights in general but this game fits them theme Perfectly! Just love the look. Used the same program cycle as your avatar. Awesome work, thanks.

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Well, you can save up to 8 different color transitions on the DIY list. Then you can easily select those 8 with the DIY buttons on the remote or then select auto after making a DIY selection and the controller will just cycle through the transitions you have saved to your DIY list. So no need to stick to just one psychedelic pattern if you want to have the controller mix it up a bit. The savable DIY / favorites feature was the main deciding factor when I chose that controller.