(Topic ID: 177859)

HELP! - Firepower Ball Return not working, Pics included

By iJeremy

7 years ago


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  • 13 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by GRUMPY
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 7 years ago

    So thanks in advance for any help... I'm usually able to troubleshoot any issues I come across with this original Firepower Williams table but this one has me stumped... The solenoid that fires when you lose a ball during game play and returns it to the shoot before you start your next ball won't fire. About a week ago while not playing the game we could smell a burning smell coming from the machine; I immediately opened it up to find the corresponding solenoid charred black (first picture). I had another so I swapped it in and it's still not working, also not burning up. Can't figure out how to get it to register that the ball has fallen into the base of the table and needs to be returned to the shoot to start the next ball. Any ideas?:

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    #2 7 years ago

    Take the balls out and enter switch test. Drop a ball into outhole. It's number should appear on the display. Continue to solenoid test. Let it run until outhole coil pulses. If it never fires you've probably a bad driver transistor.

    #3 7 years ago
    Quoted from cody_chunn:

    If it never fires you've probably a bad driver transistor

    yup! You got a fried transistor tip 120.
    Try to replace with a tip102 and you
    might have to also change the pre-driver
    2N4401. Finally, you might have to replace
    the logic 7408 gate ic chip; as the games get
    older the gate logic starts to get flakey.

    #4 7 years ago

    Any chance you know which ones?... I've tried replacing a couple to no avail. EVERYthing else still works as expected other than the solinoid for the ball return to start the next round. The whole board has had a lot of repairs upon inspection so I'm getting close to replacing the whole thing. Here's a stock picture for refernce:

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    #5 7 years ago

    The Ball Release is solenoid 1, that's Q14, Q15 and part of IC1. You can try a quick test by clipping a jumper to the tab of the transistor and then touching the other end of the jumper to ground. If the coil fires, it's a bad transistor most likely.

    You should also check the type and rating of the F2 fuse. With the coil cooked that badly, I think it should probably have blown. Make sure it wasn't overfused if your other solenoids are still working. If they aren't, the fuse is probably popped.

    #6 7 years ago

    Ball release solenoid is controlled by Q15 (which I've highlighted in red for you). As others have said, you may want to replace the pre-driver transistor (Q14) [2N4401] as well.

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    #7 7 years ago

    Thanks for the replies guys; I replaced those and no change... I'll double check the connections and try the fuse as well. It's not popped but I'll replace just in case.

    #8 7 years ago

    Update - I jumped the transistor and the coil fired!, I replaced it once but will try again... Nice to confirm everything else seems operational at least!

    #9 7 years ago
    Quoted from iJeremy:

    I jumped the transistor and the coil fired!

    That doesn't necessarily mean that you're transistors/logic are working properly, just that you have proper connections and power from the driverboard to the solenoid.

    As others have stated, if you've already replaced both Q15 and Q14 with their proper replacements, you may want to go farther upstream and replace IC1 which is a 7408 chip.

    #10 7 years ago

    I Had the same problem with my Firepower. I just got it for Christmas. This is my first pin. Followed the great advice on this thread and now it's looking like it's going to be a long night of drinking and enjoying my machine, While also basking in the greatness that I feel for fixing it myself and not paying someone to do it!!!

    Thanks guys!!!

    Cheers!!!

    #11 7 years ago
    Quoted from mbaumle:

    That doesn't necessarily mean that you're transistors/logic are working properly, just that you have proper connections and power from the driverboard to the solenoid.
    As others have stated, if you've already replaced both Q15 and Q14 with their proper replacements, you may want to go farther upstream and replace IC1 which is a 7408 chip.

    This is good advice. The jumper test simply tells you that everything else down to the coil is good and the transistor isn't going to ground as it should. This could be because the transistor is bad OR those components that drive it are bad. Since you've replaced the transistors, there is a high likelihood that the portion of the 7408 that drives that transistor is bad. I'd pull it, add a socket and plug in a new 7408. If you have a logic probe, you could probe the associated pins on the IC to see if they are active but replacing is pretty easy and cheap.

    #12 7 years ago

    So finally replacing the 7408, Just so I'm 100% clear, could anyone point out the corresponding chip? I assume it's the 3rd 7408 up from the bottom?

    #13 7 years ago

    It would be IC-1, but why are you not testing this first?

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