(Topic ID: 253889)

Help: Eight Ball Deluxe

By DarrenA

4 years ago


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  • 24 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by frunch
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 4 years ago

I am working on a EBD that came to me disassembled and with issues, I have put it together and have made a lot of headway in repairing it (I think).
But I have a couple issues that I need help with, The sound board was a mess, missing almost every socketed chip so getting it this far is IMO a miracle. So I posted a video of the latest issues to haunt me.

Here: https://www.facebook.com/darren.anderson.52493/videos/10214793499457139/

Upon power up things seem to go OK till it gets to where it says Eight Ball Deluxe. It then says 3 Ball for some reason (No coined up game yet)
Then upon starting a game there is a saucer sound constantly in the background that I don't think should be there....
So any EBD repair gurus know what could be wrong?

#2 4 years ago

It looks like you have the original battery still installed on the mpu. It may have leaked a bit. In any case, I'd clip off the battery and get a good look at both sides of the mpu. It looks like it's automatically score 5,000 points twice right away and it awards the 1 and 2 balls immediately even though the drop targets are up. Could be a number of things but definitely get a good look at the mpu. Also make sure all to do the usual bulletproofing upgrades on the rectifier board and solenoid driver board as well. Lots of connectors will need to be re-pinned/replaced to get it working reliably. Great game, good luck with it!

#3 4 years ago

I guess for starters What type and where do I get a battery?
According to the "notes" that came with the battery was swapped but when I do not know.

I did notice that to scored "something" right away but not sure what it is....
Honestly not "proficient" in pins at all. So I am kind of out of my element.

#4 4 years ago

I think the game saying 3 ball upon power up is normal, letting you know the machine is set to 3 balls per game. Mine says 5 ball, and is set as such.

#5 4 years ago

The 'saucer sound' is the normal background sound, it speeds up as you play a ball. You can turn that off in the software settings using the button inside the coin door as well as choose an alternate set of sound effects or just artificial chimes.

#6 4 years ago

Post a couple pics of the boards in the backbox and i can point out the battery for you. It may not even be a problem at the moment, sounds like some of the things you're hearing are normal. Can you push the button on the coin door to cycle through the diagnostic tests?

#7 4 years ago

OK I will snap a few photos in a bit. So the 3 ball thing is "normal" even when pressing the start button to start a new game? I can see it upon power up but while pressing the credit button seems kind of odd......

#8 4 years ago

Photos coming but as for your question NO the little red button behind the Volume Pot does NOT get me into any type of menu

#10 4 years ago

Here's the battery on the mpu board:
1090364191.png1090364191.png

You may not need to remove it immediately, but they're well known to leak and damage the board. A nice alternative is to install an NVRAM chip in place of the RAM chip on the mpu (if the chip is socketed, otherwise you'll need to remove the old chip and install a socket first). Alternatives to nvram include installing a coin-style battery & holder or a memory capacitor in place where the battery was originally installed.

Connector problems are pretty common on games from this generation. Try removing the 2 connectors on the right side of the mpu and plug them back in, then try the red button mounted on the coin door again. We want to get into diagnostics if possible.

#11 4 years ago

Your credit/ball displays look readable so - after the game has booted up okay, hitting the red button until the ball in play reads '18' should put you in the sound adjustments. Then choose from the four options of sound/background by selecting '00' thru '03' by pushing the credit button.

#12 4 years ago

I am going to assume that IF I pull the battery I will loose ALL of the "settings" like credits to start attract mode stuff ect...? I tested the battery and it is at 3.1 volts but I can see a bit of green around one of the metal straps welded to the battery. I see nothing yet on the board so here's to hoping.
I am not sure what is causing the random score at startup. I have pressed all of the switches and they all seem to function. Nothing seems stuck on, but without getting into diag I can not be sure... is there a switch check on these?

#13 4 years ago

Sounds all sound correct to me, besides the ball that is scoring at game startup. Stop by and play mine if you want to check!

#14 4 years ago

OK I made some progress, it turns out that ALL of the switches on the right "ball" drop targets were out of adjustment and were all stuck ON. So that is now fixed, No more random score upon game start and I now get the vocals for 1 ball 2 ball ect... .

Next issue is that some of the PF lights do not work like some of the balls near the flippers when the drop targets are hit do not light and part of the DELUXE on the back glass. I am sure there will be more but its progress.

#15 4 years ago

Every time you complete “deluxe” in the game it turns on one light on the “deluxe” on the backbox. So it will never be fully lit up

#16 4 years ago

That is good to know about the Deluxe.
Now for what I know is not working.

Starting from the bottom near the flippers:
5X Then for the Balls 1,5,9,10 Then the Drop target Balls 14 Then near the Eight Ball shot 20,000
I did find several bad connections on the lamp driver board that I repaired and all the rest of the lights that were not working started to work...

Again Progress.

#17 4 years ago
Quoted from DarrenA:

Next issue is that some of the PF lights do not work like some of the balls near the flippers when the drop targets are hit do not light and part of the DELUXE on the back glass. I am sure there will be more but its progress.

You might want to pull the lamp board and reflow all the header pins. I am restoring a Mr. and Mrs. Pac-Man machine and they use the same lamp board, almost all the header pins had cold or broken solder joints. Also reflow the header pins on the power supply, look for the stacked capacitors located on the top right next to the header. If you see a .1 disc capacitor soldered to a 2.0 capacitor make sure the connection is good, I found the .1 was loose on mine and it was causing phantom switch closures and MPU reboots. It looks like the S&T board has had a full cap kit installed which will save you tons of time in troubleshooting!

#18 4 years ago
Quoted from 72Devilz:

You might want to pull the lamp board and reflow all the header pins. I am restoring a Mr. and Mrs. Pac-Man machine and they use the same lamp board, almost all the header pins had cold or broken solder joints. Also reflow the header pins on the power supply, look for the stacked capacitors located on the top right next to the header. If you see a .1 disc capacitor soldered to a 2.0 capacitor make sure the connection is good, I found the .1 was loose on mine and it was causing phantom switch closures and MPU reboots. It looks like the S&T board has had a full cap kit installed which will save you tons of time in troubleshooting!

I did the cap kit. along with almost every disk cap, most of the socket IC's (they were missing totally) I replaced the 11,000uF cap on the power supply, cleaned most every pin on all the boards, Soldered what I "noticed was bad", replaced every lamp,cleaned more leaf switches that I can count, even repaired a few broken wires inside the backbox to get it here.

#19 4 years ago

I am SSSOOOO CLose!!!! I am down to ONLY the 14 ball not lighting near the drop targets. I found more bad sockets and 2 bulbs that blew, So all that is left I think is that 14 ball light. I tested the bulb and socket by jumping a near bulbs power and it lit up so it has to be a wire OR something on the lamp board???

#20 4 years ago

For someone "not proficient at pins" you're coming along splendidly!

Sounds like you're on the right track, I'd go ahead and re-flow the headers on the lamp board as suggested above. Bally's are also known for crappy light sockets (sometimes) so watch out for that too. In this case, could possibly be a cold solder joint on the header or bad connection for that lamp on the female connector to the lamp board...or bad SCR on the lamp board.

#21 4 years ago

Looking at the Schematic I see Lamp Driver board A5 Connector J1 Pin 6 Looks to be the 14 Target It has the right color code 25 (Blue White).
Did I read that correctly?
I think that's where my issue is leading me.

#22 4 years ago

Yep, that's the one.

Edit: It leads to scr Q25, btw.

#23 4 years ago

And Q25 is faulty. I swapped it with Q28 and 14 lit right up.

So now I need to find a Transistor (EDIT: SCR) .... 2N5060 by the looks of it.

I bought 4 from a guy in MN off Ebay. Lets hope they arrive quickly

#24 4 years ago

Great stuff, man! Eight Ball Deluxe is a game i *will* own someday. Easily one of my all-time favorites. It would be really nice next to my Nine Ball...

Enjoy it!

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