Help converting 1987 Bally back to 115 volt

Hello all, I'm working on a 1987 Bally Party Animal pinball that has just been brought over from Germany to Canada. I've searched the web for help on this but what I've found is either over my head, or doesn't relate to this era of Bally machines. I have looked at the 12 pin connector on the transformer, and the jumpers don't seem to be the same as what it calls for in the manual for 115 or 220 volt. I'm attaching pictures of what I have on my machine, and what the manual calls for, and I just need a little help to get this thing switched over. Am I even looking at the right connector? Been banging my head against the wall for a while and finally had to post something about it, I've never converted one before. Of course the transformer instruction card is missing in the back box too.

Any help is appreciated, and please if you can, be specific. I've done a lot of repairs to pins, just nothing like this. Thanks!

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#2 6 years ago

ZAC

zacaj

RPC

Rochester, NY

11y 158K 10,387 85 122 1

How are you counting the pins? If you take the upper right in the first picture to be 1 and then go left for 2 then it matches the 220V in the list

#3 6 years ago

CanadianGamer

Pinside member

Quoted from zacaj:
How are you counting the pins? If you take the upper right in the first picture to be 1 and then go left for 2 then it matches the 220V in the list

So it does... I was counting from the one and down. I thought I tried the different combinations, and I guess I'm not as bright as I thought I was lol. Thanks for help zacaj.

#4 6 years ago

ZAC

zacaj

RPC

Rochester, NY

11y 158K 10,387 85 122 1

OP
Quoted from CanadianGamer:
So it does... I was counting from the one and down. I thought I tried the different combinations, and I guess I'm not as bright as I thought I was lol. Thanks for help zacaj.

Does the manual have a listing of how you count pins anywhere? Or wire colors? I'd try to doubly confirm just to be sure

#5 6 years ago

SEF

Mk1Mod0

For Molex .084 connectors, put the single corner rib to the top right then count across and down.
molex084.pdf

#6 6 years ago

SEF

Mk1Mod0

That sucked... maybe this will be better?
MOLEX084 (resized).jpg

#7 6 years ago

SEF

Mk1Mod0

Page 54 in the manual has the proper diagram / schematic. If you need more help just say so.

#8 6 years ago

CanadianGamer

Pinside member

Quoted from Mk1Mod0:
Page 54 in the manual has the proper diagram / schematic. If you need more help just say so.

Thanks very much for the help, and that makes perfect sense for the way it's wired right now for 220. It looks like I need to fashion a pin extracting tool of some sort now, or order one online I guess... I have to order a new varistor as well, so hopefully Great Plains Electronics has the extractor and the (130volt?) varistor. The line filter itself doesn't need to change does it?

It has a 3 amp slo blo fuse inline at the moment, not 5amp, so do I need to bump that to an 8 amp?

Thanks!

#9 6 years ago

SEF

Mk1Mod0

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=11-01-0168&cat=92 Extractor

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=V130LA20AP Varistor

The filter should be fine, I would see what the schematic says for the fuse. Never overfuse!

You're welcome!
Shawn

1 week later

#10 6 years ago

CanadianGamer

Pinside member

Quoted from Mk1Mod0:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=11-01-0168&cat=92 Extractor
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=V130LA20AP Varistor
The filter should be fine, I would see what the schematic says for the fuse. Never overfuse!
You're welcome!
Shawn

It seems odd that the manual tells you how to rewire for 115volt, but doesn't mention needing to change the varistor, and the fuse. If that was an issue why wouldn't they mention it? I'm leaving the 3amp slo blo in for now since it seems to be ok.
Am I correct that I need a 135volt varistor? Looking at this one online... 135V/5A PEAK SURAGE 400A
Thanks.

#11 6 years ago

SEF

Mk1Mod0

It's a little over my head, but I do not believe you need to change the fuse and varistor. The kill point for the electronics is still 3+ amps sustained which is why there's a slo-blo there. It'll take short bursts over without blowing. The varistor doesn't care about amps, only shorts. When it senses one it goes poof so your MPU won't. If the varistor is built to withstand a higher voltage system it will still work fine to protect a lower volt system. The amps only matter in that it can handle what is going into it. Does that make sense?

Shawn

#12 6 years ago

CanadianGamer

Pinside member

Quoted from Mk1Mod0:
It's a little over my head, but I do not believe you need to change the fuse and varistor. The kill point for the electronics is still 3+ amps sustained which is why there's a slo-blo there. It'll take short bursts over without blowing. The varistor doesn't care about amps, only shorts. When it senses one it goes poof so your MPU won't. If the varistor is built to withstand a higher voltage system it will still work fine to protect a lower volt system. The amps only matter in that it can handle what is going into it. Does that make sense?
Shawn

Thanks Shawn, good to know!

#13 6 years ago

ZDG

gutz

Pinside member

10y 78,550 1,745 28

The varistor will protect against voltage spikes. If you put in a 135v varistor, and the voltage spikes to 135 the varistor will short and protect the rest of the game from the spike. If you leave the original one in, it won't do anything until the voltage spikes past 200v!!

Many many voltage conversions are done improperly, you need to also change the varistor and fuse (although under fusing is safe if you're unsure).

#14 6 years ago

SEF

Mk1Mod0