Pull the battery holder off the main MPU PCB and have a good look at what's under it.

Post some pics.

RM

Doesn't look bad from the photo. Remove holder from board, clean board thoroughly if any corrosion present. Install NVRAM or remote holder.

i had some battery leakage similar to that and eventually had to redo the connector below it. thought i was safe but started getting intermittent problems that got worse over time

http://nvram.weebly.com/
6264 is for WPC games.

PM barakandi on Pinside, he's an expert on NVRAM. I linked his site above.

Yes. Only thing is if you turn it off, it will revert to factory default settings. It won't remember scores or adjustments you made.

LTG : )

Nvram on that game requires de soldering the old ram, then soldering in a socket then put the chip in.
If your not good with board work I wouldn't recommend it.

brush out holder put batterys in and try to play maybe no trouble for now lol never know

Water and vinegar.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#Repairing_Alkaline_Corrosion

Terryb also has a great guide
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-guide-to-repairing-alkaline-battery-damage

You linked to a good article but you completely contradicted it when you said to use baking soda!

Exactly! Use vinegar and water.

Battery "acid" in the case of pinball is NOT ACID! It is alkaline as we use alkaline batteries.

To neutralise the alkaline you need to use the opposite - an acid.

Vinegar is a very mild acid.

People need to stop saying "acid damage" when referring to this issue and say something like "corrosion damage" or "battery damage" either one but the correct terminology should be used to stop misleading people and potentially causing more problems for the unsuspecting.

I would replace the battery holder and install Lithium AAs.

Not as slick as NVRAM but requires no delicate desoldering and the Lithium batteries are very very unlikely to ever leak.

That's what I use in all my WPC games.

DE/Sega/Stern games with socketed RAM get NVRAM.

RM

You can also use lemon juice.

They should say potassium hydroxide leak resulting in corrosive potassium carbonate damage.

No! The damaged holder is garbage. It needs to be removed from the board completely.

I dont see y not bc thst holder is on a separate board above the cpu which it was a great design change at the time.... to bad they went back to it on the board in wpc 95

You can do anything you want to, the only concern is that there may be alkaline trapped under the battery holder that will continue to degrade the board, but if this is the case, it's going to happen whether you use it or not. Personally I wouldn't use it as I would be concerned for the connectors under the battery holder, but if you haven't replaced any of those yet, then you will not likely do any more harm by using it.

Do you.live n the USA? If so,.you can .send to me, I will install a NVRAM for you for $25 which includes the NVRAM, socket and return shipping

Take him up on this offer. NONE of your games should have batteries. NVRAMs pay for themselves over time and eliminate the waste of batteries. I won't let a battery anywhere near my cabinets except for my system 3 which has a button cell and no NVRAM solution yet.

Pick a time when you know the game will not be played for at least a week. If you put it in the mail on a Saturday afternoon, You should have it back by that following Saturday. I usually have good luck with USPS priority mail. I'll PM my address.

I do suggest using Lithium batteries in the mean time.

What other games do you have?

Can get those done as well.

And a picture of Dr Dude MPU ?

Better unwrap it quickly! Stop the damage from going to other boards if you can.

I agree!!! These original System 11 MPU boards are hard to find in working condition. Although, they do pop on Ebay now and then. I think even Rottendog MPU boards have been selling out fast, but I would rather have an original board repaired in this case than install a new replacement Rottendog board.

I'm a firm believer in using AA sized lithium batteries, I have never seen one leak even in equipment that is subjected to temperature swings from (-25F to 105F). NVRAM is nice, but if the RAM is soldered in why bother messing with it, it's just too easy to use AA sized lithium and call it done. I use the 9V version in my home smoke detectors, they have now outlasted the 10 year lifespan of the smoke detectors and the last one I measured still read 9V

For those that have the skills (or $20 going rate or less at a show) to install NVRAM it's a far superior option to any type of battery, including alkaline, coin cell and lithium. Also, the fact that a 9V lithium battery still measures near 9V after years of use doesn't mean it's not 1 day away from dropping dramatically. Lithiums do not lose voltage linearly like an alkaline, they are near 100% and then drop off almost instantly. For example - I had a CPS2 arcade board that still had the factory lithium battery installed from 1994. When I replaced it in 2013, the battery still measured near full voltage. No way I was gonna chance it any longer with a nearly 20 year old suicide battery.

I played my TZ yesterday that I haven't for a while. The settings were reset so I figured the batteries died. During the game, some coil started firing for no reason, some switches not registering, etc. I stopped and looked at the batteries, one had leaked. Luckily, they are on a remote holder so I took everything off and going to replace the holder. Is that normal behavior if the batteries are bad for the game to act like that?

BTW, the batteries were Fuji EnviroMax I bought 2 years ago and had an expiration date of 2021...

I can't speak for TZ but in a typical game what you are describing is an issue other than no batteries. Usually lack of settings and high score saves is the only consequences to lack of batteries. Assuming they didn't leak anywhere else (you said remote holder) you probably have another issue.