Would anyone have any idea why the F4 fuse keeps blowing. I'm very new to all of this and do not have a very good knowledge about these machines.
The molex connectors have all been replaced the top boards on the left and on the right were replaced with altec boards by the previous owner. The game was working just fine the other night and know keeps blowing the fuse. ANY help would be appreciated. THANK YOU

Kenlayton are you referring to the fuse under the playing field??

Should I replace that molex connector again?

yes i assume the coils are free as it was working just fine the other night. I will try and figure out what part number the molex connector and what size pins to use for J2.

So lift up the entire playfield. How do you check them? I'm sorry I know nothing about these machines. Thank you for your patience.

No the only thing we did was unplug the game from the plugin.
I know how to remove the glass but never lifted the playfield. Looked under the playfield and WOW talk about wires underneath of there. This is why I'm VERY hesitant to do that,

"coin lockout" what is that. ? The door had opened and all I did was close it.

I have unplugged J1 and J3 all is fine when I plug in J2 is when it blows the fuse. All molex connectors are new

No the 1 amp fuse under the playfield on the right side is not blown. what is the diode on the coil? How many coils are there? Do I have to lift up the playfield to get at them?

I live in North Dakota. There are no flashing lights on the MPU or the solenoid driver board. Those two boards are brand new alltek boards. there is a round circle of lights on the solenoid board that flash and go around in a circle. I cannot even get the damn rectifier board off 4 plastic pins holding it on squeezed them with a needle nose and nothing. About had it with this stupid thing. I would post you pictures of it if I knew how.

Well that did NOT go well busted off 3 of the plastic tabs that hold the rectifier board. Now to find 4 new ones for crying out loud. Can you order a rectifier board with the wires sodered on the back? If so do you just splice the wires from the transformer to the new board?

Ok got a new rectifier board installed. Still batting 0 for 0. F4 blew on the brand new board also.

disconnected j1 and the f4 fuse holds

barakandl I will certainly take a pic I have no idea how to post is the problem. How do I check the coils/diodes? Is this where I lift the playfield?

lifted the playfield yeeees. No plungers seem to be stuck they move freely. Wonering if it could be in the door??

I checked the resistance of coils all 10.7 - 11.00. Only coil I did not check were the flipper coils as there are 3 wires to them and do not know which one wires to check on them. All coils work freely I could move them with my fingers.

This is with j1 unplugged. No 43 volts.

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F1 and f4 are now both blowing upon turning on the game blowing. I do not know how you all can fix these man they are complicated to say the least.
Thank you for the help in advance

barakandl you were cerrect the soldier joint on E7 was not very good. I now have 43 vdc to the solenoid driver.
F1 and F4 fuses now hold with J2 and J3 plugged in. When I plug in J1 it takes out fuses F1 and F4.

Ok took the wires out of J1 molex connector. Started plugging in the new pins into the molex connector one by one and then plugging back into the rectifier board after each wire. Fuses were all staying until I got to the green wire then F1 and F4 blew again. Took out the green wire on the molex connector and all fuses held.
Tried the flippers both worked but the lights on the board got super bright and it was like the game rebooted. Pressed the player one selector switch and it registered but did not kick out the ball. Thoughts? Thank you so much for all of your help.

Here is J1

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If I install the green wire into the molex connector and hook up to the rectifier both fuses blow. Removed the green wire from the molex connector and fuses are fine. Close the door on the back box and put the latch over the screw to hold it in place both fuses blow again. Only way to get it into the test mode is to leave the green pin in the molex conn. Disconnected and not close the door. Unreal actually almost most overwhelmed with this.

When plugging in the connector into the rectifier there is one pin all the way towards the back box that is not in the connector.

Second picture way in the back last pin not being used.

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so use the pin all the way to the back on J1?

Ok moved the connector. Re-spliced the ground wire turn the machine on fuses all hold. If I close the back box door and latch the door it takes out fuse F1. Installed new fuse closed the back box door did not latch it. Checked voltage to coil 0 volts, however it does have 43 volts to the relay on the door. Here is a pic of the door latcch.
Voltages on a
Tp1-5.9
Tp-2 230.8
Tp-3 16.3
Tp-4 6.9 a/c
Tp-5 44.2
Thank you.
Happy Easter.

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Hopefully this will help you help me.

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Ground Braid has been secured with two more screw. Ground wire is put together with a wire nut.
Turned the game on with the back display door closed. All fuses hold. pushed the player one plunger and that registers. Does not kick the ball up and still 0 voltage to the coils. ???

yes the 43 v light is on. All fuses are holding. When I hit the red test button when it gets to the knocker it is a really loud Bang. Not the way it normally was.
fuse underneath is good. what one is the p;ayfield connector??

WOOOOOOOOOHOOOOOO upon looking at the underside playfield fuse it was bad after all used the ohm meter and sure enough blown. THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH for you input and thoughtfulness helping me with this. THANK YOU