New! Dark mode!

Browsing Pinside at night? Getting tired of all the white? Switch to dark mode using the button in the top right (or CTRL-B)!

(Topic ID: 265581)

HELP 1978 Bally Playboy pinball machine


By Taryn

6 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 78 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 months ago by Taryn
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 18 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_20200412_181645273_HDR (resized).jpg
IMG_20200412_181752860_HDR (resized).jpg
77A698B0-0535-44E5-8053-32069658DE27 (resized).jpeg
IMG_20200412_152022297_HDR (resized).jpg
IMG_20200412_152642334_HDR (resized).jpg
IMG_20200411_213117053_HDR (resized).jpg
IMG_20200411_213117053_HDR (resized).jpg
IMG_20200411_213125277_HDR (resized).jpg
Untitled (resized).png
IMG_20200411_201428945_HDR (resized).jpg
IMG_20200411_201506623_HDR (resized).jpg
IMG_20200411_153740428_HDR (resized).jpg
Untitled (resized).png
Untitled2 (resized).png
IMG_20200403_123234629 (resized).jpg
3 (resized).png

There are 78 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 6 months ago

barakandl you were cerrect the soldier joint on E7 was not very good. I now have 43 vdc to the solenoid driver.
F1 and F4 fuses now hold with J2 and J3 plugged in. When I plug in J1 it takes out fuses F1 and F4.

#52 6 months ago

Ok took the wires out of J1 molex connector. Started plugging in the new pins into the molex connector one by one and then plugging back into the rectifier board after each wire. Fuses were all staying until I got to the green wire then F1 and F4 blew again. Took out the green wire on the molex connector and all fuses held.
Tried the flippers both worked but the lights on the board got super bright and it was like the game rebooted. Pressed the player one selector switch and it registered but did not kick out the ball. Thoughts? Thank you so much for all of your help.

#53 6 months ago
Quoted from Taryn:

Ok took the wires out of J1 molex connector. Started plugging in the new pins into the molex connector one by one and then plugging back into the rectifier board after each wire. Fuses were all staying until I got to the green wire then F1 and F4 blew again. Took out the green wire on the molex connector and all fuses held.
Tried the flippers both worked but the lights on the board got super bright and it was like the game rebooted. Pressed the player one selector switch and it registered but did not kick out the ball. Thoughts? Thank you so much for all of your help.

Sounds like you have 43v shorted to the gi lamps. something is wired up wrong. take a clear picture of rectifier j1.

note that playboy will not be using J1 Pin 9. Make sure your connector is keyed properly and not shifted a position to the right. If the key pin is in the right place you will not be able to plug that connector in wrong.

#54 6 months ago

Here is J1

IMG_20200411_153740428_HDR (resized).jpg
#55 6 months ago

If I install the green wire into the molex connector and hook up to the rectifier both fuses blow. Removed the green wire from the molex connector and fuses are fine. Close the door on the back box and put the latch over the screw to hold it in place both fuses blow again. Only way to get it into the test mode is to leave the green pin in the molex conn. Disconnected and not close the door. Unreal actually almost most overwhelmed with this.

#56 6 months ago

When plugging in the connector into the rectifier there is one pin all the way towards the back box that is not in the connector.

#57 6 months ago
Quoted from Taryn:

When plugging in the connector into the rectifier there is one pin all the way towards the back box that is not in the connector.

Did you get a rotten dog replacement board ? I think those have an extra pin on them

#58 6 months ago

Second picture way in the back last pin not being used.

IMG_20200411_201428945_HDR (resized).jpgIMG_20200411_201506623_HDR (resized).jpg
#59 6 months ago

If so you must make sure you have the correct position of wires in the connector .

#60 6 months ago
Quoted from barakandl:

note that playboy will not be using J1 Pin 9.

Taryn you're showing an eight pin connector. It can't be the same as the one barakandl is talking about since there is no pin nine.
Are you sure that's rectifier J1?

#61 6 months ago

i didnt verify the wire colors yet but for sure you got j1 plugged in wrong with it shifted to the right one position. Pin 9 on the replacement rectifier board, on the right side should not be used. You have it plugged in so pin 1 is not used.

Put the key in the right place of that female housing and then you cannot plug it in wrong. key very important specially on a power distribution board.
Untitled (resized).png

#62 6 months ago
IMG_20200411_213117053_HDR (resized).jpgIMG_20200411_213117053_HDR (resized).jpgIMG_20200411_213125277_HDR (resized).jpg
#63 6 months ago

Your last picture shows that you do NOT have it plugged in correctly . You need to move the connector over to the left so that pin 1 is being used

#64 6 months ago

The color order and positions of the wires in the connector are correct for an original Bally rectifier board . But if the new board has an extra pin you may need to move the position of wires.

#65 6 months ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

The color order and positions of the wires in the connector are correct for an original Bally rectifier board . But if the new board has an extra pin you may need to move the position of wires.

The eight pin female connector with the nine pin male header is fine for playboy. If the key is in the right place you can't plug it in wrong. for sure J1 needs to be shifted over and get a key pin so you can't plug that connector in wrong. The key blocks J1 pin 4 which matches up with the removed header from j1. that makes it so the connector can only go on one way.

#66 6 months ago

so use the pin all the way to the back on J1?

#68 6 months ago

Ok moved the connector. Re-spliced the ground wire turn the machine on fuses all hold. If I close the back box door and latch the door it takes out fuse F1. Installed new fuse closed the back box door did not latch it. Checked voltage to coil 0 volts, however it does have 43 volts to the relay on the door. Here is a pic of the door latcch.
Voltages on a
Tp1-5.9
Tp-2 230.8
Tp-3 16.3
Tp-4 6.9 a/c
Tp-5 44.2
Thank you.
Happy Easter.

IMG_20200412_152022297_HDR (resized).jpgIMG_20200412_152642334_HDR (resized).jpg
#69 6 months ago

You need to cover that bare metal on that green wire you have twisted together. ( wire nut , shrink tube , at the very least electrical tape) That wire is probably contacting something in your backbox causing the fuse to blow .

#70 6 months ago

Also in the middle bottom of your backbox there should be a ground braid coming from the cabinet that is screwed to the ground braid of the backbox . Make sure there is no excess ground braid sticking up from where they are screwed together. Here’s a pic of what that should look like .

77A698B0-0535-44E5-8053-32069658DE27 (resized).jpeg
#71 6 months ago

what do the lamp buss wires look like on the inside of the door ? I've had a staple come undone before on me

pics are nice

#72 6 months ago

Hopefully this will help you help me.

IMG_20200412_181645273_HDR (resized).jpgIMG_20200412_181752860_HDR (resized).jpg
#73 6 months ago

is that bare braid tail hitting the bare lamp buss when you close the door ? and -or- the spliced green wire

#74 6 months ago

Yep that ground braid is a problem , you shouldn’t have excess braid sticking up like that . It will contact Something . Make it like the pic I posted .

#75 6 months ago

Ground Braid has been secured with two more screw. Ground wire is put together with a wire nut.
Turned the game on with the back display door closed. All fuses hold. pushed the player one plunger and that registers. Does not kick the ball up and still 0 voltage to the coils. ???

#76 6 months ago
Quoted from Taryn:

Ground Braid has been secured with two more screw. Ground wire is put together with a wire nut.
Turned the game on with the back display door closed. All fuses hold. pushed the player one plunger and that registers. Does not kick the ball up and still 0 voltage to the coils. ???

Is the 43v LED lit on the driver board now?

If so check again the fuse on the underside of the playfield usually near the flippers. If that fuse is good the playfield connector on the rectifier board is suspect.

#77 6 months ago

yes the 43 v light is on. All fuses are holding. When I hit the red test button when it gets to the knocker it is a really loud Bang. Not the way it normally was.
fuse underneath is good. what one is the p;ayfield connector??

#78 6 months ago

WOOOOOOOOOHOOOOOO upon looking at the underside playfield fuse it was bad after all used the ohm meter and sure enough blown. THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH for you input and thoughtfulness helping me with this. THANK YOU

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 11.00
Electronics
Third Coast Pinball
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
From: $ 45.00
Displays
PinballSolutions.eu
$ 9.00
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
From: $ 15.00
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
San Diego, CA
6,000 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Alpine, CALIFORNIA
There are 78 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside