(Topic ID: 201079)

Heighway Pinball support (Full Throttle and Alien)

By SunKing

6 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 1,031 posts
  • 162 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by DawnP
  • Topic is favorited by 60 Pinsiders
  • Topic is sticky in its sub-forum

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Topic poll

“How well is Heighway supporting it's customers?”

  • I don't own a Heighway game 127 votes
    72%
  • I own a Heighway game, and the support has been great! 8 votes
    5%
  • I own a Heighway game, and the support has been OK. 16 votes
    9%
  • I own a Heighway game, and the support has NOT been OK. 12 votes
    7%
  • I own a Heighway game, and have received ZERO support despite many requests. 14 votes
    8%

(177 votes)

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Topic index (key posts)

5 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #407 Explaination of lighting labels Posted by bcd (5 years ago)

Post #423 Version 1.2 notes Posted by SunKing (5 years ago)

Post #850 Game hardware diagrams Posted by Per_ (5 years ago)

Post #867 Updated hardware diagram Posted by Per_ (5 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Kneissl.
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#25 6 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Took a year for us to get our replacement playfield monitor for Full Throttle.
Just got it in a few weeks ago and then sold the game.
Had enough.

A few weeks ago means the new Heighway at least has some of their tech support gears turning. Hopefully they get that ramped up now that a decent stream of games are moving out of the factory.

#69 6 years ago

Has anyone shown pictures of how they level the playfield screen? Mine is still kinda low, doesn't seem like I can get it to go in further.

#81 6 years ago
Quoted from swenny:

Could another Alien owner do me a favor and check something for me. Are the black and blue wires that come off of the switch on the airlock VUK soldered directly on to the middle pcb or do they terminate with a white plug? Here's mine, but I suspect this is not standard.

Mine has that. Looks like they dumped that extra sensor switch on the chest burster shot.

-1
#84 6 years ago

Cfh: What size washers did you use?

#94 6 years ago

Dang, I want a cliffy stat!

#100 6 years ago

cfh Do you put your washers tight against the plastic or the star post?

#103 6 years ago

Thanks Clay, that's what I've always done. Just wondering what the pros do.

3 weeks later
#168 6 years ago

They know you're Shaggy, right?

top2 (resized).jpgtop2 (resized).jpg

#172 6 years ago

I'd be cool leaving my machine with Shaggy from this old Pinball. He's the reason I've been able to fix pretty much anything [Pinball]

2 months later
#217 6 years ago

It sure doesn't look good.

#223 6 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

I'm hoping that's not the case b/c this game is so good.

I completed self destruct the first time tonight. such a great game.

1 month later
#263 6 years ago

Rensh
There's a known bug where switches with lots of bounce can get in an inverted state which results in what you describe. The dev guys are aware of it, i'm sure a fix will be in the next rev.
If you get a log of it, send it to [email protected]

4 weeks later
#306 5 years ago

Could I get the file of that gear to print my own?

#314 5 years ago
Quoted from jeffspinballpalace:

How about info on top resister (square) on I/O board? Resister out in 2 boards and that part must be soldered.

Mosfet?
Looks like these maybe.. seems like something would've caused these to blow.

ebay.com link: 0

#334 5 years ago

What's the purpose of those dip switches? I noticed one of my boards were all on...

#354 5 years ago

Did you run though switch tests? Maybe the ball trough is intermittent.

2 weeks later
#390 5 years ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

Finally, would anyone have any ideas for a way to frame and protect the "in play" edges of the lower playfield LCD? Seems like the clearcoat in that area could chip/flake/crack.

I'm using a static cling vinyl sheet like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Grafix-9-Inch-12-Inch-Cling-6-Pack/dp/B002J6CO9I/ref=pd_bxgy_201_img_2

3 weeks later
#482 5 years ago

I've had a few LEDs go bad, and they'd work sporadically like you describe. Replace or swap with the end of a gi chain is what I'd do.

#497 5 years ago

I'm anxious to hear about I/O Boards.. If those are out there the game will live.

#500 5 years ago
Quoted from Astropin:

Nitro in Canada will be coming out with replacement I/O boards...when exactly I don't know but they did say they would be doing it.

I can't wait to see these up for sale.

#502 5 years ago

And maybe pin-bros have a decent number in stock they'll sell..

1 month later
#582 5 years ago

Anyone know what mosfet this is?
Best I can figure is attached.

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#603 5 years ago
Quoted from rlslick:

1. There have been times when I power up the game and it freezes on the screen that says booting.

Afaik this is a known issue. No known fix, but the work around is easy enough.
Your other two problems sound like you need to replace the USB cables with something of better quality. The ugreen ones the game comes with look ok; they're junk.

1 week later
#635 5 years ago

I was thinking about trying to put one of these passive ball stops in. Looks like I'd have to cut the apron tho.
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1168

#649 5 years ago

Got my backup rig tested!

1534192062984443954998 (resized).jpg1534192062984443954998 (resized).jpg
3 weeks later
#697 5 years ago

I had a buddy size me a couple caps to shore up the 70v power supply. I can't say this is needed for other heighway games, I've never played any other, maybe I just got a weak one... But this is a great mod, flippers feel more solid, multiball is way better. If anyone tries it out please post your results. Wired in parallel.

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1 week later
#707 5 years ago
Quoted from knockerlover:

kneissl what is the wiring for your capacitor mod?

I'll do a write up on the mod tomorrow.

#708 5 years ago

Here's a pic that should clearly show how these capacitors are hooked up.
for cut and paste ease: order Two Digikey part # 399-14322-ND
Edit: Special thanks to @wolfmarsh!

AlienCAP (resized).pngAlienCAP (resized).png

positive (resized).pngpositive (resized).png

#722 5 years ago

I experienced a number of blown mosfets after I ran thicker gauge wire from the power supply in my quest to fix the weak coils. One might make an argument that the current factory configuration is more of a hack.

#724 5 years ago

They're not weak like you get with worn mechs or hot coils, I didn't notice till I was playing with my daughter on one side me on the other. If you flip left and right at the same time you should notice it. After I noticed it, I started to recognize it happening in multiball.

#728 5 years ago
Quoted from take2-take5:

I know we possibly couldn't have picked a worse machine for a first pin (full throttle) but refuse to believe that there's nothing we can do to get it running properly again. Please guys way out of my league here, any help is appreciated.

Does the shooter fire reliably in coil test? maybe a loose connection somewhere?

#731 5 years ago
Quoted from Per_:

Wow, that would really be some kind of "dirty hack" to limit currents with undersized wire. I already asked myself if Heighway ran out of acceptable wire and planned the replacement together with the ridiculous thin 12V cables to the mainboard. But with the caps there should be even more blown mosfets (if it is current related)?

I'll have to find an O scope or something to try and figure out what is going on with the blown mosfets.

3 months later
#852 5 years ago

Per_ I think a good place for that would be pinwiki:
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Heighway_Pinball_Repair

3 weeks later
#906 5 years ago

A bit cheaper if you get off alibaba

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