Do you mean these "tab" things?

alien ramps (2) (resized).jpg

Yep !
I heard there is a plastic gate missing, a sign or something ... or it is just a bad coonstruction ... ??

Maybe someone from the Alien team can chime in, but my recollection is that Andrew mentioned ramp gates. However, I don't think any where made, other than a prototype(?). I never saw an actual gate, so I don't know if any where ever made. I thought Aurich said they were never created, but I can't seem to find that post.

Thanks so far ...
Maybe a nice place for a extra plastic

I think it was originally for a ramp entrance switch that didnt get used, not for a plastic - but could be wrong.

Kneissl what is the wiring for your capacitor mod?

I'll do a write up on the mod tomorrow.

Here's a pic that should clearly show how these capacitors are hooked up.
for cut and paste ease: order Two Digikey part # 399-14322-ND
Edit: Special thanks to @wolfmarsh!

AlienCAP (resized).png

positive (resized).png

Adding large capacitors to the power lines involves some risks: During startup the empty capacitor draws very high current which may cause damage to switching power supplies (depending on their design) and in the long run also to the capacitors. So don't overdo it - maybe only one capacitor / less capacity is enough to improve the gameplay. Here are some explanations for those who are more deeply interesed: http://www.ti.com/lit/an/slva670a/slva670a.pdf

Me too scared. I'll just stick with my 9volt.

New project..integrate load switch to address inrush current. On it.

Let me know when the kit is ready to ship!

Power supply may be current limited. You could put a current probe on the line feeding the caps to see what their current profile looks like during start up.

I haven't noticed any issues with my flippers, but I haven't played all that much: Still waiting on a scoop protector. Although I'm sure the capacitor solution works, seems a bit "hacky" to me. Is this something that can be resolved/upgraded with a different power supply?

It's not "hacky".

Switching power supplies have a hard time responding to instant high-demand current draw. This helps a lot, and is pretty standard practice in pinball machines.

Check out Stern Part #520-5343-01, or this: https://squareup.com/market/fast-pinball-llc/item/fast-power-filter-board, or this: https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/power-entry/

Per_,

Glad you brought this up, it is a valid issue. As you pointed out by your link, there's plenty of ways around it (a simple resistor/diode might work too)

I don't own an Alien, but I do tend to take notice when people install electrical mods. Sometimes 'a lot more' is not better than 'just enough'.

Appreciate the response; that makes sense.

Now to wait and see what TimeBandit comes up with!

You and Kneissel are Da Mans Wolfy!

I can't take credit for much on this, it's all @Kneissl. I've just been giving him text message pointers and he is running with it.

Hey guys my switch (just left to the right drop ship ramp), keeps getting stuck. Its like the plastic front of it gets stuck near the metal right next to it. Does anyone have a fix for this situation? This is an important switch to hit during command drop!

Cap values and parallel wiring quite sound , engineering wise for this application. Caps a bit oversized, but headroom and tolerance are acceptable.

Won't dive into parallel cap wiring benefits, but are valid...Solution proposed works fine, and inexpensive...Certainly not a hack....Great get Kneissl!!!

( Undercurrent can cause as much, if not more damage than overcurrent in certain situations....Something to think about)

I experienced a number of blown mosfets after I ran thicker gauge wire from the power supply in my quest to fix the weak coils. One might make an argument that the current factory configuration is more of a hack.

Strange, I haven't noticed weak flippers on my game. Are they weak at the start or after playing for a long time? Also, do you have one of the later games?

They're not weak like you get with worn mechs or hot coils, I didn't notice till I was playing with my daughter on one side me on the other. If you flip left and right at the same time you should notice it. After I noticed it, I started to recognize it happening in multiball.

My machine was built 2/18, so last run of LE's, though a few more have popped up w later builds......mine is wired a bit different than kneissl's, and some board differences, as well.

I noticed the effect after he mentioned experiencing it on his.....most pronounced when in mb .....noting the launch loses power and doesn't make it up the wireform on the first try.

started paying attention, and definitely a sag when everything going......the caps keep things nice and crisp throughout gameplay...literally night and day after installing.....

Good to know, I'll look for it.

Does the shooter fire reliably in coil test? maybe a loose connection somewhere?

This sounds like a shooter lane switch issue. I know when I got my Full Throttle, the previous owner was having sporadic issues with the ball just randomly launching once it entered the lane. (A little different than your issue, but still somewhat similar in function). After I examined the issue, I noted the wire routing for the shooter lane switch was far too tight via the path they did from the factory. I rerouted it to give it some slack, and then tightened the connectors so they were snug on the switch spades. I haven't had a single issue since then. I don't want to jinx myself, but my FT has been bulletproof since I tightened everything up and went through the whole game.

What version of software are you running?

I also like the idea - just wanted to make you aware of the topic. Most switching power supplies (SPS) can handle overloads: Some limit the current, others shut down and immediately restart. And some even include a soft start. It would help to know the specs of the 70 Volt SPS, but i couldn't identfy the model. BTW the 12 Volt SPS in my Alien is this one: http://www.deltapsu.com/products/panel-mount-power-supply/PMC-12V150W1BA (mentioning "Start-up with Capacitive Loads: 8,000µF Max" and "Hicc-up Mode" as overcurrent protection). I might also have a look at a solution to limit the inrush current, but the high voltage is challenging.

Did you recognize that the cabinet board is prepared for the components of a transformer based solution: voltage selection, bridge rectifier etc.?

Wow, that would really be some kind of "dirty hack" to limit currents with undersized wire. I already asked myself if Heighway ran out of acceptable wire and planned the replacement together with the ridiculous thin 12V cables to the mainboard. But with the caps there should be even more blown mosfets (if it is current related)?

I'll have to find an O scope or something to try and figure out what is going on with the blown mosfets.

Yep, and like you, I couldn't find the specs on the 70v SPS....looks suspiciously inexpensive. I believe a proper transformer would also work ( and more $$$), but this approach is fine. (the 12v supply is legit, as you mention).

I see many things on the main board that weren't used.....truly wish this would have gone through proper engineering (even a schematic would have been nice).

No failures on my machine, just noticeable power sags on 70v side (not even convinced it needs 70v).....

I have to admit, that exactly these challenges are part of the "fun" I experience with my alien. I like to analyse and repair/improve things. I own my blue LE since 4 weeks and never played a single game . Currently I am installing a playfield protector which keeps me busy.

Spot on, and agreed....In addition to being a grail theme for me, I enjoy challenges to improve the game ( primarily for personal use, as I don't sell mods and such)

This is a special game for me on many levels....And some great people in the community to support it....Blue?!?... That's what I wanted, but was fortunate ( and happy) to grab a green one....

We press on.....

Have you tried replacing the switch? In switch test, when you put a ball in the shooter lane, does it flash twice on the test menu?

Agreed, this switch should flash in test when activated.

Take the ball out, and depress switch with your finger to see if you can get it to flash. If so, it probably just needs bent upwards slightly. In the test menu, you should see it flash with a ball in the lane.

Cool man, glad you got it worked out. You definitely picked a very undocumented game to start out on....LOL..... I will say, I have had a lot of machines, and fixed a lot of machines, and honestly, Full Throttle doesn't make me too nervous. Other than the IO Boards (which people are working to reproduce), this machine has a lot of off the shelf parts. Would a manual be nice? Absolutely. but, for the most part, a lot of stuff is easy to see, or is labeled, and you can visually work your way through a lot of the game.

I *really* enjoy my Full Throttle. Lots of different shots, and very fast, especially for a widebody.

“Ball search”

It can also be used as a pejorative term when you are playing badly and don’t hit a single switch for five or six seconds, vis, “I got ball searched”. Very embarrassing in tournament play.

The games are actually really well built, Alien was a bit rushed so had more issues, but guys are getting them worked out. I spent hours and hours getting my Alien playing 100%. Sometimes its small things like this that make the game not play properly.

The funniest part I find is the community support for these games is much better than the factory support ever was.

One of my Alien switches under the playfield doesn't work. It's the one behind the drop targets on the right side (the difficult facehugger shot... even harder without a working switch

How can I fix these switches? Are there any replacements available (in Europe)?

Thanks.