The problem with reproducing the I/O boards (in my opinion) is that in order for a run of them to be feasible, about 200 of them need to be ordered. That means whoever places the order will need to front approximately $20k to start the run. This could potentially be negotiated to less. I'm not sure there is the appetite/demand to require that many.

If someone manages to get committed/fully paid for 200 boards, they are obtainable.

And maybe pin-bros have a decent number in stock they'll sell..

I imagine it will take a while to reverse engineer those boards, but its awesome they are doing it! since most other parts are serviceable or consumer parts that you can find on digikey etc.

I wonder could user pinballsp help in the manufacturing of boards? He has made his own version boards for Pin2DMD etc.

I don't understand why Pinball Bros can't sell the boards. They have already built them. Or at least provide the Gerber files if they are unwilling to support their product?

I really don't know but I would think a run of 200 might be considerably less then $100 per board? I would think they would re-sell for $100 and make some money.

Take a look at the board... its loaded. $100 isnt happening IMHO

possibly "less" definitely not considerably less..

I have Upgraded my 1/0 board. I didn't know you needed to do that. I put in a usb with 1,2 update and then I did as the pictures shows.

Screenshot_20180612-225438 (resized).pngScreenshot_20180612-225548 (resized).pngScreenshot_20180612-225702 (resized).pngScreenshot_20180612-225717 (resized).pngScreenshot_20180612-225843 (resized).png

Not sure if this helps, but here's the pinprog.log from my machine when the upper right flipper dies.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/11JnOtw9zzo0qaLSJ4BcuHcbr96nNiCTB/view?usp=sharing

You might need to use a glue gun on the usb ports because they might be a bit lose. Mine worked after I put some glue there.

Hi!

Did you notice the I/O boards working better after the update? Any problems after the update? I think I will do the update as well.

My game works better after the update.

I noticed that the left flipper on my game is getting stuck, its binding on the playfield. It seems that the whole flipper mechanism can be removed - I need to learn the simplest way to adjust the flipper to have a bigger gap between it and the playfield. Any tips on how the adjustment should be done?

Before you do anything check the flipper button switch alignment (centered or not) on the cabinet and tightness of screws holding it in place.

It looked good to me. I wonder, should one put a bit more powerful spring there, so that the flipper would not stick up? There's not much wiggle room between the flipper bat and the playfield, but it was the same with other flippers as well.

EDIT: now when I look at the pic, its not totally centered after all - it may be worth adjusting it.

Also additional question: the airlock seemed to lost the ball a few times and only ejected the ball after a ball search. Have other users experienced this and what was the fix? I am using the latest software 1.2.

Thanks for any info!

IMG_3885 (resized).JPGIMG_3886 (resized).JPG

That plunger looks worn?

True, I see it now when you mention it. Its a NIB game, but maybe there had been some damage to the plunger at some point during assembly.

The switch in the scoop needs to be adjusted. You have to fiddle a bit with the wire. If you find the right bending it works fine again.

Yes, thank you, its working fine now.

I have some adjusting problems still - what have you guys done is similar situations:

- ballthrough ejects the ball with too much power and the ball ricochets back to the ballthough from the shooter lane wall
I adjusted the power as low as I could (25 % weaker), but it still does it. Have you put some dropdead foam e.g. to the shooter lane?

- the launcher ejects the ball with too much power and the ball sometimes ricochets back to the shooter lane
I adjusted the power as low as I could (25 % weaker), but it still does it.

- the metal shooter lane protector is shaped in a funny way - have a look at the pic - is this ok?

Thanks for any info!

-81 (resized).jpg

I uploaded some videos to youtube to show these problems. Any help would be much appreciated - have a look:

Bend this metal tab down about 1/8th of an inch or so (towards the front of the machine), that should help the first problem

b8e4f8968209f1a4559f1940dc1cf03f9ea7ecce (resized).jpg

You could also try stretching the spring out under the plunger a bit to give it some additional resistance, and slow the eject down some.

Thanks guys for excellent tips. I checked my black rubber damper at the end of the shooter lane and it was loose. I replaced it with some Williams rubber damper I had bought ages ago as a spare part. Its blue and not so nice than the original, but it does the trick! Also after bending the metal tab, the ballthrough works ok!

Rubber (resized).JPG

It seems that there still might a problem remaining with my Alien.

In test mode the left post does not come up at all.

But maybe I am testing this in a wrong way as I do not understand, why the test menu here gives the opportunity to launch a ball - the ball launcher would hit the ball in the rubber damper in any case?

Some pics of the left post's coil attached - they seem ok to me.

Sorry for being a nuisance in this thread, I am sure soon the issues with my Alien are sorted and I won't be asking that many questions!

Thank you again for any help!

IMG_3936 (resized).JPG

IMG_3938 (resized).JPG

Are you holding in the coin door button to give the coil power?

Hmm - I put the test on and shut to coin door.

EDIT: I tried the test with pressing the coin door button down. Now it seems to work, but not each time as I test it. Maybe 3-4 times out of 5, when switching the posts test from left to right post. Also I notice that the eggs are flickering in colors at the same time.

How does this sound - is the situation similar with other owners?

Usually works on 1.2v software, is the coil binding? From underneath playfield press on that coil and verify the movement is smooth.

4f552d4cf4bdcbf7204608c821bfd81447f7be86 (resized).jpg
The plunger stopper is just a screw. How strange.

That screw is how you adjust height to ensure it is level with the playfield for instances where the game leaves it down for an orbit shot.

Also, you can pull out on the coin door powers interlock for it to stay on continuously.

Drop dead foam at the shooter form end, and a slight bend to the scoop did the trick...got power back up to factory setting, and mech works great...

Got a pix of the LED's?

Seems that the coil is moving smoothly. I tested today and the post test seemed to work ok. Just to check: are the eggs supposed to flash during the posts test? They probably are... Here's a video:

The eggs shouldn't flash during post test, I think that's what Ferret and Brian call "disco lighting". I'm quoting ferret here, but it's crosstalk from the coil circuitry corrupting the serial data stream for the lights.

He also mentioned if you update your I/O boards to the latest 0.9 firmware they tried to minimize that a bit. You can do this by going into Tests -> I/O Boards, and hit the "select" button in the coin door to update each one individually. You can also make sure that the USB cable for that I/O board isn't near that or other coils. I'm actually ordering some new cables and a few ferrite cores to see if this helps reduce that problem any. I don't have the same problem as you, but have some flickering on the special and revive inserts when flipper coils are engaged.

Hmm - I updated the I/O boards by putting the USB-stick into the computer and it went though a couple of updates, but after that it seemed that the update I had on the stick was the same as on the board. But I did not select any board specifically - so might it be that I have only updated one board? Or do the boards have a USB-slot each (= I am interpreting your sentence "...make sure that the USB cable for that I/O board isn't near that or other coils...")?

Is this interference harmful for the machine? I do not see the interference anywhere else than on the eggs when I use the posts' test.

I have a decoration playfield from an Alien and got a monitor and the support pcb.
Are there any cables out to connect the monitor with the support pcb ?
I am not "in electronics" to make the cable my own. Maybe someone has a solution where to buy which cable.

The plan is to illuminate the playfield with rrb-led´s and run scene of the pinball and/or movie on the monitor ... and that as a wall hanger.

Please let me know ....

Thanks
Tom

I guess you only updated the CPU and not one io-board. That is done in another menu and for each board. Please see knockerlovers posting for this.

The interference is not harmful, just distracting.

Hmm - I went to the I/O board section and started updates there. But I did not find that I could select the I/O boards, I have to try that again. I did not find knockerlover's post on it though, I checked the "Weyland Yutani" -thread and made a search for this Heighway support -thread...

I think he was referring to the earlier snippet.

If you go into the service menu, then go into tests, then go into I/O Boards. It will show the first IO board (IO1) it's current software version, and available software version, you can then select to update. If you hit the "right" select button it will move on to IO2, IO3, then IOC. All need to be updated to 0.9 individually.

Thanks! I think I have only updated IO1...

Due I have no Alien ... no. But I have around 4 playfields from Mirco for decorations. On TH is no differenece to see. On a WOZ some notches are "bad" drilled.
DI shows on the underside drilled "DECO ONLY". On the Alien is the area around the monitor ugly and the print broken. I know that there are also some playfields out with extra drill holes or larger drill holes. But I am sure if you really really need a playfield you will be able to get it in the machine.

However .. any suggestion for my wiring problem ??

What kind of general fixes have users done?

For example the magnet core - have you put something around it?
The airlock came with a protector, but has it always been so? People have been buying cliffies, I noticed and that's why I am asking if there is something wrong with the protector that the game had originally.
What have you done to protect the facehugger's tails?
Any plastics that are easy to break and should be reinforced e.g. with washers?

Mine did not come with a playfield protector, I've been contemplating about whether to buy one or not.

Thanks for any comments!

I would put clear washers under all points where a fast moving Pinball could break something. Slings, ramp entries, etc.

Final production games have mylar around the magnet and scoop protector that work fine...

You'll want to put mylar in pop area, drop dead foam at the end of the shooter form, replacing the rubber there...might have to tweak the trough a bit, and lower the power on it and launch coils.

Plastics are all acrylic and thick...gonna be hard to protect them...

Ive never used pf protectors...just dont like them, but just my opinion.

Game is very solid..enjoy

Thanks for the tips! And yes, now that you mentioned it, there indeed is mylar around the magnet.

Come on guys .. I am sure someone rebuild this wiring harness ..... or has the correct pinout ....

There are other threads to try.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/get-away-from-her-you-bitch-alien-club-all-members-expendable/
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/weyland-yutani-dedicated-to-keeping-3-alien-specimens-alive/
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/alien-pinball-official-game-thread/

Thanks.... will try my luck ....