(Topic ID: 282250)

Heavy Metal Meltdown Assistance Needed

By OldSchoolGamer

3 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 16 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by vindic8r
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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821A08B0-9198-4E4D-B7EE-EA5A715B0700 (resized).jpeg
HMM Backbox closeup (resized).jpg
HMM Backbox (resized).jpg
HMM Playfield (resized).jpg
#1 3 years ago

SOLVED: Disconnected power wire from a Thumper Bumper Solenoid.

====================================

I have a 1987 Heavy Metal Meltdown machine that has been working great and suddenly the other day ball 2 did not get ejected ejected into the shooter chamber and several solenoids stopped firing (l/r thumper bumbers (center one fires), l/r slingshots, ball loader and ball eject). I can hear a click by the ball ejector solenoid (It clicks once but the solenoid does not fire).

I tested the playfield fuse and the flipper solenoid fuse on the power module (figured I check it to be sure) and both are good.

I don't think it's a switch matrix issue since nothing is randomly firing.

Any thoughts on what could be going on here? vindic8r Heavy Metal Meltdown

#2 3 years ago

There is a little board called a solenoid expander relay under the playfield. Depending upon the activation and position of the relay, certain solenoids will fire vs others. It has a 555 bulb next to it that is necessary for it to work. I wonder if the clicking is the relay. If the relay is working — clicking when it should — then perhaps a wire fell off or there is something wrong with a connector and power is not going where it should. Check the relay for colder solder joints. Check the connector. Check the 555 board.

#4 3 years ago

Nokoro thank you for the reply! I looked under the playfield and near the MPU and did not see a Solenoid Relay Expander anywhere. I included pics of the playfield and the main circuit boards in the backbox. It also seems the click that I hear when a press the credit button is coming from somewhere on the backbox circuitry. I included a close-up pic and indicated where I think I hear the click (one click only).

Thank you for your time!

HMM Backbox (resized).jpgHMM Backbox (resized).jpgHMM Backbox closeup (resized).jpgHMM Backbox closeup (resized).jpgHMM Playfield (resized).jpgHMM Playfield (resized).jpg
#5 3 years ago

Hmmm. I thought all 6803s had them, but I don’t really know and could be wrong. I don’t see one in the schematics or under the playfield.

What’s that little board with the relay looking thing on the right wall of your back box at the bottom?

#6 3 years ago

@nokoro, thanks for your reply. see attached. It doesn’t say Solenoid Relay and I don’t see a bulb near it

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#7 3 years ago

Latest test: I have tested the ohms on all the solenoids and all have power.

#8 3 years ago

Yeah that board is something different. I’m not sure what the issue is. Perhaps try posting a link to this thread in the 6803 club thread. There are some experts with the system there.

#9 3 years ago
Quoted from OldSchoolGamer:

It doesn’t say Solenoid Relay and I don’t see a bulb near it

So that board (A084-91902-A000) is the Aux Coil Driver and the thing in the plastic cube is a relay. Perhaps it has a different name, but it serves a very similar purpose as the Solenoid Expander, it looks/sounds like.

Quoted from OldSchoolGamer:

Latest test: I have tested the ohms on all the solenoids and all have power.

So a voltage test is definitely a good idea, measuring from the supply lugs on each and every coil that isn't firing (to the left of the banded end of the left diode when looking at the diode side of the coil lugs). You said ohms, but I'm assuming you meant VDC (Voltage Direct Current)? And when you say they have power, how much exactly? Does it waver or stay relatively constant?

Testing for power is always a good first step. Every one of the supply lugs should read something close to +43VDC.

You mentioned that the fuses are good, but did you test them in circuit? While you usually can tell visually when they blow, I was taught to remove them when testing their continuity, to be sure you're getting a reliable reading.

If the above tests pass, then check the power at TP4 on the Power Module board. You should be getting something close to +43VDC.

Try the above and report back with your findings, please.

#10 3 years ago

vindic8r , Nokoro All fuses tested out of circuit and look good.

I don't know how to use my DMM (AstroAI DT132A) to test VDC for TP4 or for the coils (I'm a total noob)

Here are the latest Solenoid Tests:

Ball Eject Solenoid: Continuity/Resistance: 14.5 Ohm
Left Slingshot Solenoid: Continuity/Resistance: 11.2 Ohm
Right Slingshot Solenoid: Continuity/Resistance: 11.2 Ohm
Ball Eject Solenoid: Continuity/Resistance: 14.5 Ohm
Outhole Solenoid: Continuity/Resistance: 11.2 Ohm
Left Thumper Bumper Solenoid: Continuity/Resistance: 11.2 Ohm
Right Thumper Bumper Solenoid: Continuity/Resistance: 11.2 Ohm

#11 3 years ago

Measuring resistance isn’t really telling you anything since resistance of a coil is determined by the gauge of wire and number of windings.

You need to figure out whether the proper power is going to the coils.

You want to measure voltage following what vindic8r said. You need to do this with the power on, and it is high voltage so be careful. Watch a video on YouTube if you haven’t done it before. I can try to explain but sometimes a visual is much better.

#12 3 years ago

Here, I haven’t had a chance to watch the whole video yet, but I think this covers the basic principle:

#13 3 years ago

Nokoro thank you for posting that video. I will provide an update today

#14 3 years ago

Closing this thread. Found a wire disconnected from a thumper bumper. don't know how I missed it. A little soldering work and the machine is back up and running! Thanks to vindic8r and Nokoro for all your patience and guidance!

#15 3 years ago

Great! Don’t you love it when it is a simple fix?

#16 3 years ago

Nice! Kudos. Enjoy the game. It is a great one!

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