(Topic ID: 159830)

Heat Wave club . . . Blow Your Top!

By dr_nybble

7 years ago


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  • 183 posts
  • 31 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 30 days ago by PowderNoid
  • Topic is favorited by 8 Pinsiders

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There are 183 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 4.
#1 7 years ago

It's time for a Heat Wave club! Let me start things off. Let's show off our machines, share our experiences and help out with issues.

Here you can see the work Drano did on my machine before I bought it from him:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/129813506@N07/sets/72157647337634414/

He took care of the playfield clean-up and did a beautiful job on the coin door...and I love those red legs!

However, the interior of the machine still required a lot of work. I had to replace several bad coils. None of the bumper coils were correct, they were a motley collection of Gottlieb coils. An old bridge rectifier was even screwed to the underside! Most of the labels were dirty or half-destroyed. And everything was covered with the usual layer of black dust and vaporized grease from some ill-advised lubrication of the past. Also note the bashed up end caps from the lockdown bar. These were rechromed by Mike Chestnut for me a few months ago, my only work done by Mike alas.

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#2 7 years ago

I removed all relay frames, units etc. from the game and cleaned/ultrasonic/tumbled them as needed. All switches were gapped and cleaned. All bad coils or imposters were replaced. The bumpers were sluggish, I rebuilt them all with kits from Pinball Resource and they are much punchier now -- makes a big difference in hitting roll-overs at the top of the playfield. I spent a lot of time polishing up the bell and got it looking pretty nice.

Everything was removed from the mech panel and it was sanded down. The transformer was painted with Rustoleum black.

The rails were removed and sanded down to 3000 grit. I left them with a mirror-shine -- even though they are prone to finger-prints I like the look!

The cabinet was stripped, bondoed, primed and repainted. That was a trial for me, learning how to paint properly with rattle cans!

I used Molotow Premium paints and Grafix lay-flat stencil material.

I got the hang of painting after a few false starts but I did end up sanding off and repainting various bits several times before I got it "good enough". One thing I didn't realize is that the large 600ml cans of Molotow Premium are "high pressure" cans and not suitable for color stencil work. Stick with the low pressure 400ml cans for that. Otherwise it is a beautiful paint to use.

In terms of painting, the technique I settled on is roughly:
- one light coat, wait a few minutes
- medium coat, wait a few minutes
- another medium coat, wait a few minutes
- if necessary, a last medium coat

No sanding necessary. Once enough paint is laid down it smooths out and is a nice gloss.

They say the paint is fully cured in 12 hours but I felt safer waiting a few days or even a week!

#3 7 years ago

I also had to do quite a bit of sleuthing and schematic reading to get the wrinkles out. Most of the cases were switches that looked properly gapped but were not making good contact. I did rebuild one switch stack with parts from Pinball Resource as they were cooked (24V power on the score motor switch). Also had a nasty short to the apron from the outhole switch that someone else had replaced at some point. I did also replace the busted power switch someone had added but didn't recess into the cabinet.

I do have an .SVG file with a lot of the labels and fuse block diagram redrawn, PM me with your e-mail if you want it.

But enough talk, let's see some pics!

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#4 7 years ago

Looks great!

#5 7 years ago

One quirky thing about my Heat Wave -- look at the backglass and see if you notice anything odd or different...

Odin mentioned the possibility of a silk-screened reproduction backglass -- looking forward to that!

#6 7 years ago

Very nice work on a very worthy title. "Heat Wave" is a super fun, and great looking game.
The backglass has already been reproduced in a regular screened version, but I don't know who did it. I had two of these games at one time, but sold one years ago. I believe the one I sold had the repro glass in it.
There is a cabinet variation on this game as well. The two I owned had different graphic designs on the front of the lightbox, surrounding the backglass. Yours is the later style, but the one I still own has a blue mask with the bottom elongated diamond and the left and right side "spears" in base color white. The flyer shows a backbox with the earlier graphics mask. I guess they changed the style later in production.
I didn't look really close, but I didn't catch any difference in your backglass. It's a great looking backglass too. Another Art Stenholm glass that is very similar in style to that of the late, great Roy Parker.

#7 7 years ago

Mine originally had the blue mask but I preferred the other style so changed it when I repainted.

My backglass is missing one of the colours! No brown sand on the beach. You can see the white mask through the areas where it should have been screened.

I guess I should have mentioned, I hand sanded the end caps from 120 -> 3000 grit before sending to Mike for rechroming.

#8 7 years ago

I really hope they come out with a reproduction backglass. Mine is flakey, the cabinet has some dings and paint chipping from being around for 50+ years, but the playfield has held up pretty well with just a couple of worn areas.

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#9 7 years ago

I got confirmation from Shay that Heat Wave backglass is in the pipeline . . . . time to start saving my $$$, not cheap!

#10 7 years ago

What's the trick to get in touch with him? I called, emailed, PM'd him but no answer.

#11 7 years ago

No idea, I sent an e-mail and got a reply like 5 minutes later!

#12 7 years ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

I got confirmation from Shay that Heat Wave backglass is in the pipeline . . . . time to start saving my $$$, not cheap!

Great news!

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4 months later
#13 7 years ago

Joining the club! Just picked up a heat wave project this weekend. Former owner picked it up to restore it. He completely dismantled the playfield and various pieces in the cabinet to clean and work on things. He touched up the playfield, then used automotive clear (pro sprayed) to clear coat the PF. I think he said 12 coats. Looks amazingly slick, I'll take some pics soon.

He said he thinks everything worked aside from the thermometer in the backbox. After doing the PF clean and clear coat, the project just sat for a year or so. I picked up the cab and all the parts a day ago, started assembling this evening. He didn't clean the plastics or anything, but he did have a PBR ring kit, so he have that to me. No schematic sadly.

Cabinet was stripped by a previous owner ( not the guy I bought it from). It's completely bare wood on the body and head. Sad, I know. Debating what to do there, for now I'll focus on getting it reassembled and working.

Looking forward to posting more, glad there are other heat wave fans!

-Maxash

#14 7 years ago

If you have a look at my pictures, I did a complete repaint of my cabinet using Molotow Premium rattle can paint.

#15 7 years ago

After playing a friends Heat Wave I made the decision to finally pull the trigger and buy one I had been looking at for over a year.

I just picked up a project Heat Wave last Saturday that is in need of alot of work. It will need some cabinet repair, it is missing the backglass and the playfield has some planking and minor paint loss. This game will live again and be fully restored in time.

#16 7 years ago

Welcome

Quoted from DallasPinball:After playing a friends Heat Wave I made the decision to finally pull the trigger and buy one I had been looking at for over a year.
I just picked up a project Heat Wave last Saturday that is in need of alot of work. It will need some cabinet repair, it is missing the backglass and the playfield has some planking and minor paint loss. This game will live again and be fully restored in time.

Welcome! If you need any help or pics just ask. Hopefully a Shay backglass reproduction will show up soon.

#17 7 years ago

*raises hand*

Love this game... and the theme is so appropriate for Texas. Will be starting work on it in early 2017.

1 month later
#18 7 years ago

While not an official member of the club, I had the opportunity to repaint the cabinet of Drano's Heat Wave. This game had been repainted at one point in its 50-plus year life. Designs were added to the coin door area, silver spatter was used instead of the original black webbing, and, to top it off, it was shellacked. It had yellowed with age and gave the game a sickly, nicotine-stained look. Gel stripper made relatively fast work of the shellac and non-factory paint. From what I could see of the original finish, the game looked like it needed that first re-paint job. Drano shared the info that two different coulor schemes were used for the backbox face. He chose to stick with what was originally on the repainted machine, and I was able to confirm that the original paint underneath in fact matched what was repainted. I think the webbing dictates whether or not the game looks good...and I've taken the best advice I could find on Pinside and RGP to try and perfect my technique. I'm proud of how this one turned out!

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#19 7 years ago

Beautiful!!! I have Drano's previous Heat Wave.

Your webbing looks good, what technique did you end up using?

#20 7 years ago

I think silver spatter might be original too. Maybe they did both? I think my 4 Roses has it, and the paint is original. I'll check my Heat Wave tonight and see...

1 week later
#21 7 years ago

I'm in the club!

#22 7 years ago

Welcome! Let's bring your machine back to life!

#23 7 years ago

On that earlier reply... yes, webbing for Heat Wave.

#24 7 years ago
Quoted from NicoVolta:

I think silver spatter might be original too. Maybe they did both? I think my 4 Roses has it, and the paint is original. I'll check my Heat Wave tonight and see...

Yeah, webbing for sure on this Heat Wave...dead giveaway was that the playfield rails were webbed, as well as the inside walls of the cab. It is the first Williams game of this vintage I've repainted (and have only ever done one other WMS EM: a Spanish Eyes...which I had to recreate the art for, trippy indeed!).

I, as well as everyone I've painted for so far, gravitate towards GTB EMs...

#25 7 years ago
Quoted from spiroagnew:

I, as well as everyone I've painted for so far, gravitate towards GTB EMs...

Yep... "Gottlieb guys" are legion... and I used to be one! But now I'm loyal to no brand. If I had to choose just one, Bally would be my desert island choice. Probably a tie between Gottlieb and Williams for second place.

Gottlieb games are indeed the prettiest, no argument there. But too often the gameplay is quaint and a little old-fashioned... including many of the IPDB chart-topping crowd favorites. Just one person's opinion though. Pretty sure Gottlieb will remain the most collectible due to the outstanding level of refinement overall.

2 weeks later
#26 7 years ago

The weather man said we can expect colder temperatures tonight.

He didn't see this Heat Wave coming!

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Thanks to Shay For the much needed backglass!

Marcus

1 week later
#27 7 years ago

Shay Heat Wave Backglass

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InstalledInstalled

Original Backglass

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Next stop, cabinet repaint.

Marcus

#29 7 years ago

Not listed on his site, is it not kept very up-to-date? My glass is not bad, it'll be a tough call whether to pull the trigger. $295?

#30 7 years ago

I think they are already all sold out...? :/

#31 7 years ago
Quoted from NicoVolta:

I think they are already all sold out...? :/

I just bought the last one!

#32 7 years ago

If you missed out on the Shay reproduction backglass, you can still pick up a nice original (7ish) is on eBay right now.

ebay.com link: Williams 1964 Heat Wave Pinball Machine Original Backglass

This is not mine. I just noticed it today and thought I would share.

Marcus

2 weeks later
#33 7 years ago

I missed out on this. I hope they make more. They look great!

#34 7 years ago

Finally got me a Heat Wave so's I am in baby! I have it ALMOST fully working now, but when I start a game, the thermometer lights (Frigid, etc) reset, but the red strip only resets one notch, it doesn't go all the way back down. I have to keep pushing the credit button until the strip resets all the way. I can't find a schematic anywhere. Anybody know what I should be looking for? Or have a schematic for me?

#35 7 years ago

OK... so I actually did my own research here, and it looks like I found my issue:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-heat-wave-1964-project/page/2#post-3429718
Headed out to try it now.

I could still use a back for the head and a lockdown bar!

Thanks.

#36 7 years ago

That did not fix my issue. All the pawls on the mech move freely. It resets fine if I manually move the coil. What relay triggers the reset for the thermometer?

#37 7 years ago

The advance unit reset is energized through score motor switch 3C and a switch on the coin relay.

First question -- does the advance unit reset coil pull at all when you start a game?

Second question -- does the games played meter advance when you start a game? It is energized by the same set of switches as the advance unit reset.

#38 7 years ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

The advance unit reset is energized through score motor switch 3C and a switch on the coin relay.

Thanks!

Quoted from dr_nybble:

First question -- does the advance unit reset coil pull at all when you start a game?

Yes. It resets less than one hotness level. It takes about 6-8 pushes on the credit switch to get it to zero if it's near the top. It just isn't pulling in long enough to let it reset to zero.

Quoted from dr_nybble:

Second question -- does the games played meter advance when you start a game? It is energized by the same set of switches as the advance unit reset.

The credit unit is sticky and only moves by hand but it starts a game even if the reel is at zero, so there must be a hack somewhere for free play, so I haven't really addressed that yet.

#39 7 years ago

It sounds mechanical to me. The coil is just pulsed when the score motor turns, it is not held in. When you are manually activating the reset to test you should just pulse the plunger but not hold it. Watch my video of me resetting it, just tapping the coil is enough.

#40 7 years ago

I got my Shay reproduction backglass today and installed it, have a look! My only critique is that some of the colours seem to lack saturation compared to the originals, for instance the green. But hard to know since my colours are faded over time I am sure.

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With no flash:

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Here is my original backglass. It is in pretty good shape, there is some paint loss in the yellow areas and around the thermometer that have been inexpertly repainted by someone but no loss in detail areas. Note that I seem to have none of the pinkish colour in the beach or faces, I think it has completely faded out over time or was never screened in the first place. Or maybe the colour was just mixed differently that day, who knows.

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#41 7 years ago

The final thing I want to do is create a new thermometer tape as you can see mine is missing a lot of paint. I tried once but my spring steel was too thick (0.005"). Costs an arm & a leg to buy that stuff and ship it to Canada so I'll try again after I've absorbed the pain of my new backglass!

#42 7 years ago

That bg looks beauty! Wish they weren't sold out already; I could use one!
I finally found the issue. Wotta noob! It was the little pawl behind the one I thought was the problem. It was gummy. Now it's not. Now it works. Thanks a lot. Hey, that rhymes.
So stoked now. Love this game.

3 weeks later
#43 7 years ago

I've joined the club!
Looking forward to making it live again.
Looks like I just missed the repro glass from Shay

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#44 7 years ago

The repros went so quickly I don't think most owners even had a chance to check the website. Was it even updated? I hope he does another run... many more need this glass.

#45 7 years ago
Quoted from NicoVolta:

The repros went so quickly I don't think most owners even had a chance to check the website. Was it even updated? I hope he does another run... many more need this glass.

I tried contacting Shay to query about the possibility of them doing another run on the backglass but I did not hear back from them.

#46 7 years ago

I could use a backglass as well. Anyone know where I can find the rollover inserts?

1 month later
#47 6 years ago

Greetings all!

I just purchased my 4th EM Pin, Heat Wave from MaxAsh and in the process of returning her to some semblance of glory. She is going to be repainted as soon as I chase down the last of the mechanical gremlins but my number one issue is the backglass is cracked =(

Would one of you 'gents consider selling me one of your OLD backglass? It would give me something to work with and better than what I have.

Gary

#48 6 years ago

Working 100%, hope to finish up some cabinet work next week and get some paint on it.

Gary

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#49 6 years ago

Hello Fans!
I got a Heat wave in for some restoration work.
Basically it needs a new paint job a little bit of touch upon the pf but nothing major.
Back glass is missing all of the red colors (all faded out to white). I scanned it ,so i will rework it with pc art program and i will back print it to glass.

For now i started to disassembling the parts and check missing elements or damaged parts.
I found a few bed burned coils so i would like to as a readable image or pdf of the schematic, and the user manual if someone has it.

Also a few decals on mine are unreadable and one stapled paper is missing.

The missing stapled paper is the upper in the inside side of the back box wall, i think it show's the high score settings.
Can someone take me a picture to i can rework it?

Also i looking for pictures for each red lettering label to i can recreate them and replace them in the correct position.

Thats for now tomorrow i plan to finish the dis assembling and start to repair wood things where it needs and start sanding the flacking paint.

Thanks for anyone who can help! Best Regards:Laszlo

#50 6 years ago

PS: Also looking for a good readable picture or scan from the sticker which is located on top left playfield plastic.

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