(Topic ID: 154384)

Headphones don't work on WOZ

By jockejo

8 years ago


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#1 8 years ago

I tried headphones on WOZ for the first time and it doesn't work. When I insert the phone connector, nothing is heard in the headphones. Furthermore, the sound continues to come through the speakers. The volume led's are on and can be adjusted up and down (but since nothing is heard in the headphones, nothing happens). The mute control does not work (the mute control on the card is set to "enable").

Could this be a mechanical thing or will the pinnovators card ("300_024 Rev C") have to be replaced?

#2 8 years ago

There is a black plastic slide switch between the inside of the metal coin door and the headphone board. Is it turned on ?

LTG : )

#3 8 years ago

Hi jockejo.
When the headphones are plugged into the headphone jack, it's normal for the sound to keep coming through the system speakers.
The system speakers only get muted when the "mute" button is pressed.
There is a simple test to see if the "mute" button signal is getting back to the main amp board. Remove the cover to the control box and look at the state of the LEDs on the Amp board.
Look for LED5 and LED6.
LED5 is Green and on when the sound is on. LED6 is yellow and should be on when the game audio is being muted.
Let me know what you see.
Thanks,
Mark

#4 8 years ago

Now it works. Explanation: I didn't press the mute button hard enough.

However, two new problems have occurred:

1. The volume is quite low in the right ear and higher in the left ear.

2. There's a big difference between the volume in the speakers (high) and the volume in the headphones (low).

The second problem can be solved by buying and installing "JJP MAC Master Audio Control Panel", which makes it possible to adjust the volume without opening the door.

But what about the first problem?

#5 8 years ago

I'd make sure the earphones aren't defective first. If not wiggle the audio connections.

Pinnovators can solve the second problem. I've bought a second through the door volume control for HOBBIT as well.

#6 8 years ago

I've tried several headphones and there's always a big difference between the left and the right volume level.

"Wiggle the audio connections" - how?

#7 8 years ago

It might be the plug itself. The stereo mini jack on the end of your earphones has 3 lines separating right, left and ground. What you plug into (the female part) has 3 pieces of metal that correspond. You might have a left (or right) channel that's not aligned correctly or the connection is too weak. You might press on the WOZ side connections while the earphones are plugged in with a tooth pick.

Otherwise the sound board is located to the right just behind the coin box. There are wires going in and out. Wiggle the connections from the earphone jack to the board and if that doesn't work you might reseat any plugs to the board. If that doesn't work call Lloyd or Frank at JJP - they know what they're doing while I'm only guessing.

#8 8 years ago

Hi jockejo,
There were two methods for getting the audio out of the CPU board.
The older method used a cable that plugged onto a pin header on the CPU board.
If you have that version, try gently wiggling the audio cable coming from the pin header on the CPU board.
Sometimes it does not make a good connection.
The audio in the back box speakers should also match the Right and Left levels in the headphones. If one channel is louder in the headphones, it should be in the speakers too. If it's not, let me know and I'll think about the issue a little more.

Audio levels:
When the machine is first turned on, the audio level on the headphone panel returns to a default setting.
If the system speaker volume is set to a comfortable level and the volume in the headphones at the default state,
you should get a reasonable headphone volume level...Not too loud, not too soft. Let me know.
In all cases, the Pinnovators "JJP MAC Master Audio Control Panel" is a great mod!!

Thanks,
Mark

#9 8 years ago

I think I've tried everything.

I have removed and reconnected the cable between the Sound amplifier board and sound board on the coin door (both ends).

I have wiggled every connection on the Sound amplifier board. I have also wiggled the mini jack connection.

There is no difference in sound volume level between the speakers, only between the headphone left and right.

I also removed the sound board on the coin door. The female part of the mini jack is like a small black box soldered to the board. Could there be something wrong inside this "black box"? If so, shouldn't there be some change when I wiggle the mini jack?

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#10 8 years ago

I just tried connecting the headphones to the back of cabinet jack and there was a big difference between left and right there as well. This probably proves that there's nothing wrong with the sound board on the coin door.

#11 8 years ago

Try wiggling connections at back of big silver box this side of woofer. This should affect external speakers only but who knows.

#12 8 years ago

I listened again and the right speaker has a much lower volume than the left one. So, it is both the speakers and the headphones. I give up for now but I will try som more wiggling in a few days. Thanks everyone for your suggestions this far.

#13 8 years ago

Hi jockejo.
Now your getting somewhere!
Your almost done.
You have it narrowed down to the Amp board or the cable from the CPU to the AMP.

Can you tell me if your machine has the connector shown in the picture I attached??
If not then it has a 3.5 mm male cable that plugs into the CPU audio out.

Thanks,
Mark

CPU_Audio_Out_Connector_(resized).JPGCPU_Audio_Out_Connector_(resized).JPG

#15 8 years ago

One last thing.
I re-read your comment
"I listened again and the right speaker has a much lower volume than the left one."

I did a test on my WOZ amp where I disconnected the input to right channel and left the left connected.
The left speaker played normally while the right speaker played but at a very low level.
Sound like your issue.

This narrows the issue down to the Amp or the input cable.
I'll know more about the input cable when you tell me about the type of cable you have in your system.
If its' the amp, then it's simply a bad solder joint on R5. Can you send me a picture of R5? I attached a picture of mine.
Thanks again,
Mark

R4_R5_Amp_input_(resized).JPGR4_R5_Amp_input_(resized).JPG

#16 8 years ago

The connector you pointed out is very loose. The glue is not holding it in place anymore.

Furthermore, another connector might have lost it place during the examination (se the image below). Where does it belong?

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#17 8 years ago

Is it possible to use a 3.5 mm male-male cable from the CPU audio out to the AMP card instead of the present cable with the loose connector?

#18 8 years ago
Quoted from jockejo:

The connector you pointed out is very loose. The glue is not holding it in place anymore.
Furthermore, another connector might have lost it place during the examination (se the image below). Where does it belong?

DSC_2965_-_with_comments_(resized).jpg

I don't have a WOZ, but your audio connector looks like it is offset. If you look at MarkA's picture, there are no "free" pins. Furthermore, when going by the cable colors, yours looks like it is turned 180 degrees.

#19 8 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

There is a black plastic slide switch between the inside of the metal coin door and the headphone board. Is it turned on ?
LTG : )

Haha. Thanks for this! Mine has never worked. Thought I'd get round to investigating one day. Fixed! That has to be one of the most invisible user switches in all of anything.

#20 8 years ago

Mine never worked either. Same issues. Don't use.

#21 8 years ago

That's the USB cable that controls the IO board and LEDs. I included a picture of where it goes.

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#22 8 years ago
Quoted from jockejo:

Is it possible to use a 3.5 mm male-male cable from the CPU audio out to the AMP card instead of the present cable with the loose connector?

Yes! Using a 3.5 to 3.5 mm cable is the better way to go and will solve the problem of that loose fitting connector.
Now you can't just use any cable! There are slight difference in the diameter of the barrel on 3.5mm male connectors.
Use a Monoprice #9764 cable. I can send you one if you want. I did some evaluation with this cable and it works great.

One end of the cable will plug into the green 3.5 Female connector on the CPU and the other end will plug into the isolation transformer for the audio input of the amplifier. Just follow the original cable and you will see where it plugs into the isolation transformer.
Give this a try and if the levels are still not correct, the isolation transformer may have a bad connection (I forgot to mention that earlier) but that's real easy to fix.
I'll be back online later and will check in.
Thanks,
Mark

#23 8 years ago

The connection I was asking about ("Where does this one belong?") seems to lead to loose ends (see below). It's difficult to be certain because a lot of cables are tied together.

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#24 8 years ago

One more thing:

The "old" connection between the CPU and the AMP goes through a mysterious black box (image below).

The "new" 3,5 male-male connection will not.

Is that ok?

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#25 8 years ago

The two USB cables go to the IO board.

The mysterious box is the Audio Isolation transformer.

It's not OK for the new cable to go directly into the Amp. You may pick up noise fro the LEDs due to the large amount of LED current.
Follow the original audio cable back and you will find a connection that you can unplug from the input to the Audio Isolation Transformer.

Back to the original problem..If you try wiggling that loose audio cable at the CPU, does the sound cut in and out?
That's typically where the problem lies.

Mark

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#26 8 years ago

Sorry if I'm being a bit slow but I want to be sure there are no misunderstandings before turning WOZ back on...

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#27 8 years ago

Ok, now I get it. There seems to be a connection almost hidden in the nest of cables going to the input of the Audio Isolation Tranformer.

#28 8 years ago

Great!
You found the input to the isolation transformer!

Looks like you have an extra USB cable too. I'm not sure how that got in your machine. I have not seen one like that before.
So leave that other USB cable disconnected if everything was working fine.

#29 8 years ago

I connected the audio output (green, outside the metal box) via the Audio Isolation Transformer into the AMP card input (red).

The result?

Everthing works perfect now! No difference in level between left and right anymore. Maybe I'm imagining but I even think that the sound quality is better now. I have not used the cable you suggested (Monoprice #9764) but another one I was able to find (not too fancy). Could a better cable improve the sound quality even more?

I also removed the cables not in use (image below). They have one thing in common: loose and flimsy connectors directly on the circuit card. Connectors that seem to need glue (!). I am not impressed by these type of connectors

The work and analysis became more difficult than needed by these extra cables not in use and by the fact that it is difficult to follow cables when the go through "nests" (many cables tied together).

Thank you very much for helping me!

(Some other WOZ owners were helped as well as they discovered the small and well hidden mute switch.)

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5 years later
#30 2 years ago

Sorry for resurrecting this very old thread, but I have a problem probably related to sound amplified board.
When the jack male is completely plugged inside the female jack (the pink connector on the board), there is almost no sound through the subwoofer (cabinet speaker).
If i slightly remove the male cable from the pink connector, subwoofer sound is OK.

Is there an easy way to fix this ? I do not think I would be able to replace the pink connector as I really do not have soldering skills.

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