It's pretty silly to avoid Bourbon St - that's like going to NYC and refusing to visit the Statue of Liberty or whatever. You can easily spend 20 minutes just strolling up or down Bourbon St and then move on, but you should surely make it a stop. The strip is about 8 blocks so it's not like it's much of a commitment.
For live music you will want to go to Frenchmen st just across from the quarter. Tons of music clubs, some won't have a cover (drink minimum). Apple Barrel, DBA, some of those places. It's kind of Bourbon St. South now but with more music and less honky tonk. You could easily spend an hour or two there.
If you like messy, buttery seafood get the BBQ Shrimp at Mr B.s Bistro. Amazing!!! There's like a stick of butter per shrimp and tasty tasty seasonings.
For "fine dining" Antione's is great. Some may scoff at the menu which hasn't changed in 90 years or whatever but it really is a wonderful meal. I got the soft shell crabs with almonds when I went and of course some gumbo and crawfish tails.
And yeah Café Cu Monde is great. Don't do like my gf and ask for a menu, it's on the napkin dispenser.
It's pretty hard to get a bad meal there, even at the touristy places. Have fun!
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