(Topic ID: 261503)

Having trouble replacing switch.

By Jmckune

4 years ago


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  • 22 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by Jmckune
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#1 4 years ago

I’m getting very frustrated trying to solder in a new switch on my bride of pinbot. I’m able to get the diode In just fine but can’t find a good way to secure the wire as they are short to begin with. When I finally get the wire to get there fairly good. My soldering iron while cheap doesn’t seem to do the trick. It will melt the solder and continue to go through it but for whatever reason the switch doesn’t seem to want to accept the solder on it and a ball just falls off when I pull away like I have on every other soldering I’ve done. It’s in the face so I’d really like to go back to having a functioning game. Anyone want to help or have any tips on what could be going wrong?

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#2 4 years ago

Add flux. I use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Rosin-Flux-Pen/dp/B077TZ8GRM

Do you have a temperature controlled iron?

#3 4 years ago

You could cut that zip tie and pull the wires out of the plastic wire clip to give you more length. Then at least you are not fighting that. The wires look to be oxidized so with more length you could cut that off and expose fresh wires. Can also clean up the switch terminals (fibreglass brush works great, but so would a scotch brite pad in this case). Flux as mentioned above really helps with cleaning the joint, but if you dont have any on hand try to get it as clean as possible without. The switch terminals are large which act as a heat sinks. So if your not already, add some solder to the tip of the iron before heating the joint.

#4 4 years ago

It could be the type of solder you are using...

#5 4 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

I’m able to get the diode In j

Do you have it on backwards ?

LTG : )

#6 4 years ago
Quoted from Completist:

Can also clean up the switch terminals (fibreglass brush works great, but so would a scotch brite pad in this case)

I found this to be my problem so when I cleaned up the terminals with a emery board ( nail file ) it seem to solder 100% better even with my cheap soldering iron.

#7 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Do you have it on backwards ?
LTG : )

No? Just like the original that was in there

#8 4 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

No? Just like the original that was in there

Then you are good to go.

LTG : )

#9 4 years ago

Here’s what the original looked like before I removed it. Do the terminals take longer to heat up than the pads on boards? I held it there for quite a while but don’t know if it wouldn’t stick because of the oxidation or if it just wasn’t hot enough.

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#10 4 years ago

Use some sandpaper to rough up the terminals, then it will stick

#11 4 years ago

And tin your soldering gun.

#12 4 years ago

You could also add more wire to lengthen the originals. I have a bundle from a pin that I use to try and match the colors.

#13 4 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

I held it there for quite a while but don’t know if it wouldn’t stick because of the oxidation or if it just wasn’t hot enough.

I wonder is somebody put that diode on there with a higher temperature solder, like silver solder or something ?

Did you put the diode on ? If so that went good. Using the same solder ? If so maybe your soldering iron is failing to heat up ?

LTG : )

#14 4 years ago

Yes I added diode myself with same solder. Even went and got a new iron as they’re only $5 lol. I’ve done plenty of soldering on lamp boards and brought those to life with success but these terminals are giving me fits.

#15 4 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

but these terminals are giving me fits.

Weird. I've always found them to get hot quick and stay hot and melt off solder that was already there.

I think I'd remove all the solder. And start over with new solder.

LTG : )

#16 4 years ago

Clean the contacts, sand them, them clean them with 90% iso alcohol and dry and then tin them. Could have residual oil that will inhibit silder from sticking. If your wire can be tinned, you are good.

#17 4 years ago

Most switches are mass produced in China. Those terminals suck and need cleaned like mentioned above.

#18 4 years ago

Are there not holes in the terminals you can thread the wire into and secure mechanically? Good solder joints flow the solder over a solid mechanical/electrical connection to make them semi-permanent.

Stop buying cheap $5 irons. Likely whatever thin plating is on the tip is gone and no amount of tinning it going to save it. If the solder balls up on the tip, even without soldering to something, the tip is shot.

Others have already pointed out you can pull some wires out of the bundle to get more slack, or to add some jumpers to it (use heat shrink on the joint, and use the lineman's joint, not a pigtail. Whatever you do don't use electrical tape around the joint, it won't stay.)

#19 4 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Stop buying cheap $5 irons. Likely whatever thin plating is on the tip is gone and no amount of tinning it going to save it. If the solder balls up on the tip, even without soldering to something, the tip is shot.

+1. You buy crap, you get crap performance.

Remove all the existing solder. Get the wires to where you can reach the switch. Mount the switch BEFORE you solder anything. Cut wire down to get to clean wire if you have to, and make a mechanical joint on the terminal. You shouldn't need the solder to hold it in place, and there's plenty of room in those holes to fit the diode leg and the wire. I've done it a bunch of times. Add flux to the terminal and the stuff immediately touching it. Solder it.

If your switch doesn't have holes in the terminals...well....drill them some, or something. I dunno. I've never had that issue. :p

#20 4 years ago

Got the switch from action pinball. The holes are just big enough to get the diode through on the front one. On the two green ones that go to the middle one, they can probably be threaded through but didn’t get to that point because I kept fumbling with trying to get the white/orange to stick. I guess I could drill another hole carefully?

#21 4 years ago

Use the holes for the wires. Add the diode after and just wrap the leads around since they stay in place being solid vs. the wire being stranded.

#22 4 years ago

Well it certainly wasn’t the prettiest of jobs but I was able to get my cheap $5 iron to do the trick after pulling the wires out of the restraints to give myself extra room.

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