The Mirco playfields vary from generation to generation an even run to run.
Anytime you are dealing with wood,plastic and coatings as well as chemistry in general it can be a mixed bag.
What I recommend is take each and everything on a case by case basis.
You have chipping down to the wood on a low play game?

There is an adhesion problem between the wood and the initial layers of art.

You have clear chipping off the art but art remains intact?

You have a clear adhesion problem or it is simply wear with the clear being the first line of defense.

That is all it comes down to.
If you see wood or ghosting it is on the ground floor
If it is clear only issues it is typical wear or at the top coat level.
Doesn’t matter who made it that is what you are dealing with.
Just a general guideline to follow.

I wouldn’t single anyone out but I will say from CPR,NOS,Mirco ,IPB etc I have a 15 to 20% flat out rejection rate and then of the remaining percentage 50 to 75% require some rework or improving.
There is a small percentage I look at and inspect and see no significant room for improvement and install as delivered but it is very rare.
That said the standards here are very high.

I like to sand polish and assemble in about two weeks of the final clear application
It will be at this point that the clear is well cured but still flexible enough to withstand the assembly process.
The products I use are designed for an overnight air dry and next day delivery on automobiles so that two week window is already overkill.
The difference in what I am doing and those that make playfields though is I am working on and adding to existing finish but they are actually creating one.
That is a much bigger difference than it may seem.

Depends on the issue whether it be prep,cure times or even just a batch of bad product.
I don’t know exactly what inks and solvents are used nor what clearcoats ,hardners ,reducers, how long things are allowed to flash off between coats and how long between the final ink layers are the clears applied over them.
Anyone of those things can impact the final product.
The advantages I have is that I focus on one or two playfields at a time.
I am well versed in the products and process I am using and I am in no hurry to get anything done.
A playfield manufacturer could not possibly operate or survive at that level so they have a different process and other products to get things done.
Another thing is I rarely do playfield only work anymore because the build and protections put in place(Mylar at the drops,pulling t nuts in not hammering them ,washers under ball guide post,not over tightening parts etc)can’t be guaranteed unless I do it myself and I don’t want to inherit others mistakes.

I have installed many without issue. 9 times out of 10 I have recleared them but anytime I have had an issue it was something I spotted upon delivery or became apparent during the very early stages of assembly.
It is not unique to Mirco though.
I have had inserts pop and crack art on CPRs

Screen printing blow clean off on NOS

An IPB MB that you could strip the clear off with a piece of masking tape.

Back when Doug Huse used to do pinball work he tried to clear an NOS Flash playfield and it looked like he poured stripper on it
He brought it to me to see if I could salvage it. Definitely worth a look.
Point being playfield building and finishing can go wrong at any point and happen on any playfield.
http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/album20

The clear looks incredibly thick judging by how much build there is between the bare wood and the top of the finish. This is something people beg for and act like is plus but is actually not a good thing at all.