Dave,

I have just gone thru the multiball conversion of my HH as Sparky suggests. I will post some pics when I get time. If its in the budget I would highly recommend Pascal's PI-80 board from flippp.fr for enhanced troubleshooting and coil longevity, for example if there is a coil problem the board will display the coil that had the error and what the error was as well as turn off voltage to it preventing coil burn. His board is also required if you wanted to do the multiball upgrade but also runs the standard single ball if you like. I bought a new soundboard from Swemmer Electronics that included the speech upgrade and for me personally it does fit the game but that is something everyone has to decide for themselves. As far as your kick out hole I would guess either the switch that tells the game the ball is there is stuck in the closed position intermittently or the coil to fire the kick is burnt. Check Fuse F14 (it powers main playfield up kicker, right side kicker and trap door 24VDC) and replace with 2.5A slow blow if its bad. I have a good working set of original boards I could sell you for cheap if you wind up needing them but my game was an early edition prior to main production so we would need to do a bit of digging to ensure it would work for you. As others have suggested the grounding mods are a must and I would recommend adding a pop bumper driver board to the vertical up kicker to enhance the reliability of it and reduce chance of the coil being stuck on. There are many guides on the internet for the VUK but if you cant find it PM me and I will send you a snipit from Clay's guide. Another detail about the VUK reliabilty that seems hard to find is that it requires a spring that pulls the tube towards the U shaped bracket mounted to the lower playfield so that it always sits in the same place. My game was missing that and it would be aligned perfect one second and then missing the next. Once I figured that out my VUK works perfect every time. If you are missing the spring also and want pics to better understand how it all ligns up let me know. It really is a wonderfull game with great artwork, hope your rebuild goes well for you.

Dave,

Based on the numbers I see on the IPSND yours appears in line with what others have reported and it does not appear they used all available numbers. My machine is 01289S meaning its a Sample game(pre-production). I don't have Pascal's Pop bumper boards but I would not hesitate to buy anything from him, he is very helpful and stands behind his products. In my case I ordered a complete set of pop bumper driver boards along with sound card and sound card power supply from Swemmer Electronics as I mentioned. One other thing I will plug about the Pascal board is it allows you to have 5 high scores similar to more modern games and if you do a bit of modding you can enter those high scores using the conventional flipper/start buttons. For me that makes my weekly pinball crawl we do here much more competitive. Your approach of going thru the game and cleaning sounds like a good one, lets you take inventory of all the parts you need and only order once. Let us know how it goes.

I will check out your thread for sure. As far as grounding mods go there are some different trains of thought on this. Basically the concern is a voltage differential between the different boards and components of the machine. The process commonly involves tying all the different ground wires together to avoid any potential difference and also to provide multiple grounds in the case that one were to go bad or open. I believe it is generally accepted that the only mod required is between the main driver board and the cpu board to add one additional ground wire to provide a better contact on the end connector. So if that is the accepted solution then in theory Pascal's board eliminates that requirement as it is a true all-in-one power supply, driver boad and cpu board. I am sure some smarter and more experienced pinsiders than me can chime in to add more detail but that is my 2 cents.

As prommised here are pics of my multiball mod. I did not feel like removing the apron so you can't see the changes to the main playfield troff but basically you just add a switch to detect when there are three balls there and you add a multiball trough to hold the three balls. It was hard for me to find the parts but after searching Ebay I found what seemed like would work and as it turned out it did. The physical work is actually very easy if you don't mind putting some holes in your playfield. The harder part was adjusting the lower ball trough switch to avoid ball hangs and actually running the wiring and making everything clean with plugs so it still looks stock. I was originally going the route of OPTO's but the stern ones I bought turned out to emit too bright of a light for my taste so I went back to a switch. Reading what others who had completed the mod said about ball hangs I knew I wanted to avoid them so I opted to mound my switch on the side instead of underneath. In the end this proved to be a great solution as my switch works every time and can't physically cause a ball hang. You can see what I did circled in red in one of the pictures I took. If you look at my Cellar image there is another red circle, I had constant ball hangs by that switch as well as it is not a typical two way switch from factory as the ball would never come back up there without the trough mod in place. I simply switched the wire form to the standard triangle style found in an out lane and that issue was solved. If I had it to do over again I would have bought or fashioned a playfield holder so I could put the playfield up on a desk and spin it 360 for soldering and fishing wire. I also added two additional switches on the flipper buttons to allow for high score name entry and some red/green led on the flipper and start buttons so they light up. I tied the lights into the upper and lower gi so they pattern in attract mode and switch with the game play. I also added two additional switches to the tilt relay to switch a 12V and 5V wire to an additional relay that is triggered by the upper GI. That additional wiring allows me to switch the behind flipper led strip with the GI and also switch some extra 5V LED's I'm adding in the clear start posts from green to red with the GI. As you will see in my pics my playfields are pretty rough and I am now onto the step of repairing them. Ok and now for the pictures.

Backbox.jpg

Backglass.jpg

Flipper_Buttons.jpg

Lower_Ball_Trough.jpg

Lower_Ball_Trought_Switch.jpg

Main_Playfield.jpg

Atic.jpg

Cellar.jpg