(Topic ID: 319610)

Haunted House / System 80 Outhole issue

By Black_Knight

8 months ago

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#1 8 months ago

Haunted House outhole solenoid isn't energizing. Every thing else plays fine when I manually eject the ball. The out hole switch is fine as it ends a game and resets the lower drops when the ball drains.

In fact as long as the ball is on the out hole switch it cycles through the reset process and stops when I remove the ball - so I know it is good.

Coil Ohms are good, grounding the coil activates it.

Tested Q59 it was good. I replaced it anyway. I can activate the coil from Q59 so I know the wiring is good. I also checked the relevant traces to make sure my soldering was good.

I have continuity from Q59 to the MPU board beyond the connector, so I know the connectors and traces are good to right before U6- 6532-3.

I reseated U4 U5 and U6. All legs looked OK.

Still nothing.

Did I miss anything along the way or is it time for a new 6532 or board repair/new board? I don't have a probe and never used one.

This machine has had the connectors re done recently and the grounding work recommended in pinwiki.

#3 8 months ago

Q. does the solenoid fire in test mode?

if not, would look at the CPU schematics & knowing what solenoid number is the issue, trace it back from connector J4 using a logic probe - looking at i/c's Z28-30 on CPU before assuming its a riot

i don't remember if one can loop a specific solenoid during a system 80 test mode but if you can't the at least number of CPU controlled coils is rather small so testing should be easy once the coil test is running

good luck

#4 8 months ago

also, if the riots are socketed, instead of re-seating them, you can swap two of them for a sanity check

#5 8 months ago

Solenoid #9 goes thru Z30 pin 11-10. I never tried it but pin 9-8 are not used, could you jumper this to check the chip? To me it would be easier just to replace the 7416. 52 games and no logic probe, how do you survive?

#6 8 months ago

I guess I left that out earlier. No, the out hole does not fire during the test. The knocker does not fire either, need to investigate, but I didn't think those would be related. The others fire as expected.

Kenny - you mean just move the 3 6532s around to see if the behavior moves to something else? You know this is the machine you worked, right? It was great until this!

DR- Probably owned 100 or more, so I guess I've been really luck so far!

Actually Sol 9 doesn't go through Z30 It goes through diode 230 then straight to the U6 6532. I had continuity from the other side of the diode to Q59.
The chip pins are marked PA7/15 in the schematics, I'll try to get a pic.
However there looks to be a +5V input 'south' of that diode? Maybe I've lost that voltage ?

#7 8 months ago

Bottom line in the pic is the outhole #9.

image (resized).jpg
#9 8 months ago

Ha, you are way out of warranty period on that one! it turned out to be a nice machine, glad this is the first problem.

anyway, Sol 9 is controlled by Z30, what you think is 230 is Z-30, pins 11 & 10, its just drawn outside of the i/c box on the schematics for i guess ease of drawing, to clarify: the signal path leaves U6 pin 15, to Z30 in pin 11 out pin 10 to connector J4

yes, you can swap the 6532's around to wreak havoc elsewhere if one is indeed bad

logic probes are your friend, pick one up with audio function and learn to use it

#10 8 months ago

Ah, OK. I thought that oversized diode looked weird in the schematic. And I see the 11 / 10 references for pin numbers.


#11 8 months ago

Swapped 6532 chips and weird behavior followed it. so ordering a new one. Thanks for the advice.

#12 8 months ago

I was having solenoid issues on my Haunted House when I first got it. I had a few solenoids that would not fire. I traced them all back to the same connector A3J4 on the Driver board. Cleaned all the pins on the Driver board and they started working fine.

#13 8 months ago

New chip in and it works great again. Thx for the help.

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