Long Beach, CA
My Haunted House has sound in the attract mode, but nothing during game play. I assume the DIP switch settings are correct due to the sound working in the attract mode, but there is no sound at all during game play. Any thoughts?
(Topic ID: 258242)
Linked Games
Haunted House
Gottlieb, 1982
Topic Gallery
Quoted from TZ:My Haunted House has sound in the attract mode, but nothing during game play. I assume the DIP switch settings are correct due to the sound working in the attract mode, but there is no sound at all during game play. Any thoughts?
Did this problem just occur while playing a game or during powering up the game,working on game ect.??
Quoted from TZ:I swapped out the sound board with the one in my Volcano and experience the same condition. Swapped the ROMs of course.
If i remember correctly there are 2 sound pots on the sound board and a volume knob in the cabinet,Have you tried adjusting those sound pots on that board.Remember the game must be turned off when adjusting those sound pots so you dont cause a short.
Quoted from TZ:Yes I have. And like I said the attract mode sounds work fine, just no sound when the game plays. Very strange. At this point I'm thinking the sound board must me OK and the issue is with one of the boards feeding it??
That is strange,Would you think maybe its off during game play in the dip switch settings?
From this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/haunted-house-sound
One of the posts that strikes me is this statement here. I don't know the whole story, but it sounds like it is indeed controlled separately in attract and game modes...
"The sound board should run independently of the CPU during attract mode, if you get the sounds working, you still could have issues with the A1J4 to A3J1 connector for controlled sound lines (1, 2, 4 & 8 sometimes take a "hit" from alkaline damage). Maybe you'll get lucky and the sound board works. Keep in mind that there may be other issues to fix since this game probably hasn't been working in a while."
3 months later
Still trying to get the sound working during play on this one (works in attract mode). I rebuilt the A1J4 to A3J1 connector but it did not change the situation.
One of the previous posts referenced the cross post information:
"I'll give you a general list of common things to look at that could cause a sound board malfunction (no sound), they should be checked and working perfect before going into troubleshooting the sound board (if needed). If any of these connections are bad or the voltages are off, diagnosis of the sound board will be a waste of time.
1. Check *all voltages* at the sound board, make sure they're present and correct.
A. Check the F8 fuse (1A slo-blo) for the sound board with a meter, you may have blown it when you messed with the pot.
B. Check the A2J1-5/6 (5VDC) connection for cracks around the header pins. This is where the sound board gets it's 5VDC from, it's not uncommon for this issue to be there.
2. Check the Z13 IC (7404) on the driver board for a bad gate, if one of these output signals isn't high at start up, the sound board won't run.
The sound board should run independently of the CPU during attract mode, if you get the sounds working, you still could have issues with the A1J4 to A3J1 connector for controlled sound lines (1, 2, 4 & 8 sometimes take a "hit" from alkaline damage). Maybe you'll get lucky and the sound board works. Keep in mind that there may be other issues to fix since this game probably hasn't been working in a while.
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure"
All of the above checks out, however the Z13 IC has high for sound lines 1 & 2, but has low for sound lines 4 & 8. Do each of these sound lines need to be high as referenced in item 2 above? If so, would it necessarily mean the Z13 IC is bad and needs replacement?
Thanks for any help.
Here's an idea for you.
I have a very similar condition right now with a "The Amazing Spider-Man" that I'm working on. The reason that mine plays the attract sound and is silent during gameplay is because I had to remove all the dip-switch banks. The batteries had leaked at some point and corroded the interior of all the dip-switches, so I couldn't adjust a lot of the features working.
Anyway, before I removed the dip-switches, my sound worked everywhere. Switch 25 on my machine controls scoring sounds. If it's off, I get nothing during gameplay but still get the attract tune. Since I've removed it for the moment, it's off.
So I would try using a multimeter to test the switches and see if they're all working. If the machine has seen any battery issues in the past, maybe some of your switches suffered the same fate as mine. I'm attaching a picture of the interior of my dip-switches after I pulled the tops off. You can see the corrosion inside.
IMG_1574 (resized).jpgSo thanks for the tip. All of the DIP switches do seem to be working ok.
So now I have discovered the the attract sounds not only work, but stay on during game play. I can start a game and everything seems to work fine, including all scoring and bonus, however the attract sounds keep playing just as if there were no game going on (I set the DIP setting on the sound board to play them every 10 seconds - so I'm assuming the sound board does work).
I haven't played Haunted House, but I have a thought on how you might try to pin down this problem. On The Amazing Spider-Man, if the sound is off (through the dip switches) the bonus countdown at the end of the ball flies by so fast that the lights barely flicker. If I turn the sound on, then the bonus countdown basically waits for the sound to play with each light so the total countdown is much slower.
Maybe this is a peculiarity with Spider-Man, but they're roughly the same architecture.
If your bonus countdown is going regular speed, and it happens with multiple sound boards (as you said), then I would assume connector/cabling, but it sounds like you've already investigated that. Given all that, I would assume that the problem is on the MPU board itself.
I tend to start at the beginning and try to work my way through. With a scope or logic probe I would verify the following on the MPU (A1):
1) signal on U6:pin12 (PA4)
2) continuity between U6:pin12 and Z27:pin11
3) signal on Z27:pin10
4) continuity between Z27:pin10 and Z31:pins10,13,1, and 4
5) continuity between Z27:pin2 and Z31:pin5
6) continuity between Z27:pin4 and Z31:pin2
7) continuity between Z27:pin6 and Z31:pin12
8 ) continuity between Z27:pin12 and Z31:pin9
9) signal on Z31:pins 6, 3, 11, and 8
10) continuity between Z31:pin6 and A1:J6:pin /B
11) continuity between Z31:pin3 and A1:J6:pin /A
12) continuity between Z31:pin11 and A1:J6:pin Z
13) continuity between Z31:pin8 and A1:J6:pin Y
So I was finally able to get back to trouble shooting this one. Here is what I found:
1) signal on U6:pin12 (PA4) PINS 8-12 are all HI
2) continuity between U6:pin12 and Z27:pin11 YES
3) signal on Z27:pin10 SIGNAL IS LOW
4) continuity between Z27:pin10 and Z31:pins10,13,1, and 4 YES
5) continuity between Z27:pin2 and Z31:pin5 YES
6) continuity between Z27:pin4 and Z31:pin2 YES
7) continuity between Z27:pin6 and Z31:pin12 YES
8 ) continuity between Z27:pin12 and Z31:pin9 YES
9) signal on Z31:pins 6, 3, 11, and 8 SIGNALS ARE ALL LOW
10) continuity between Z31:pin6 and A1:J6:pin /B YES
11) continuity between Z31:pin3 and A1:J6:pin /A YES
12) continuity between Z31:pin11 and A1:J6:pin Z YES
13) continuity between Z31:pin8 and A1:J6:pin Y YES
Should 3) and 9) signals be HI?
1 week later
Yes, there should be an occasional high signal on Z27:pin10, whenever the system wants to play a sound. U6:pin12 (PA4) is the control signal for sound (active low). If that never goes low, then sound is never sent to the sound card because Z31 only allows signals to the sound card when PA4 goes low.
For sound, this signal is a very quick blip. Are you measuring with a logic probe or do you have a scope with a trigger? It sounds like everything is hooked up correctly on the MPU, and the Z27 and Z31 (although it's impossible to be sure about Z31 if U6:pin12 never goes low) sound like they're doing what they're supposed to be doing. I'm wondering if maybe the signal on U6:pin12 was so quick that it was hard to spot?
If U6 is socketed on your board (and you happen to have a spare), I would try swapping just to be sure. It would seem odd that solenoids and lamps work if there was a problem with U6.
Sorry I can't be more help - I was hoping you would find a simple problem with one of the logic chips, but nothing you mention sounds fishy.
2 months later
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
