Haunted House Attract mode small issue

(Topic ID: 213984)

Haunted House Attract mode small issue


By Bay78

3 months ago



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  • 8 posts
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  • Latest reply 3 months ago by frunch
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#1 3 months ago

Hello everyone. I just recently picked up a Haunted House in good looking condition. But it has some issues. It was having a boot issue that sometimes it would boot and sometimes not. When it wouldn't boot if you would leave it a while (5-10 mins) sometimes it would finish booting and go into attract mode. From there seemed to be in proper attract mode, other than all the displays would stay at all 0's instead of flashing between 0's and the high score. When you would add credits and press start it would play the music and kick the ball to the shooter lane and reset. I was trying to think what that could be and thought it definitely couldn't hurt to change the large orange capacitor in the bottom cabinet that always needs to be replaced anyway and see what happens. So I grabbed a capacitor I had for a Wpc driver board (10,000 mfd 25V) and soldered it in. Turned on the game and bam it booted first try! Then after about 10 seconds it stopped. Turned it off and back on and booted again, this time stopped being in attract mode after only 5 seconds or so. Turned it off and back on again and then my 5 volts light on the power supply was out. Found the F2 fuse was blown and replaced fuse and turned back on. Well after doing that the 5 volt light comes back on but the fuse starts to glow orange in the bottom of the cabinet and makes sounds through the speakers etc. So I disconnected all the connectors even the power supply connectors so that no board is hooked up and turn it back on and that F2 fuse keeps glowing orange so I turn it off. I checked the bridges and they all check out fine. Just changed the capacitor and don't know what to try next? Could it be the line filter letting too much voltage through or possibly the transformer or possibly a bridge even though they are testing good? I have no idea and would love some system 80 experts opinions. I was just seeming to be getting close and this happened. Rebuilt the power supply, did the upgrades to it and through away original data sentry battery (amazingly didn't leak) and added Cr 2032 battery and holder and blocking diode. Any help appreciated

#2 3 months ago

Start with F2 should be a 5amp slow blow. I would check to see if you have 10-12vdc.I suspect a bad bridge rectifier. Make sure you wired the cap properly pos and neg. From there it goes into power supply at a2j1 middle pin.check volts there.then digging into a short in power supply.
-Mike

#3 3 months ago
Quoted from Grizlyrig:

Start with F2 should be a 5amp slow blow. I would check to see if you have 10-12vdc.I suspect a bad bridge rectifier. Make sure you wired the cap properly pos and neg. From there it goes into power supply at a2j1 middle pin.check volts there.then digging into a short in power supply.
-Mike

Thank you for the advice, Yes I did make sure I hooked up the capacitor correctly. As for checking that connector A2J2 I'm not sure what to do there? All connectors re-pinned and used trifurcon. 156 crimps and worked before. And it happens to the fuse with nothing at all hooked up in the backbox (all connectors disconnected). I'll try a different 5A slo-blo fuse and change the bridge even though it tests fine and report back. Is it common for a bridge to test good and actually be bad?

#4 3 months ago

If nothing is hooked up in backbox then I would say the bridge has a short.
-Mike

#5 3 months ago
Quoted from Grizlyrig:

If nothing is hooked up in backbox then I would say the bridge has a short.
-Mike

Changed the bridge and put a new cap and viola it works! Now the other more minor issue I’m having is after the game boots in attract mode instead of alternating between 000000 and the High score it just stays at 000000. As soon as you press start game plays fine just curious about this weird attract mode issue

#6 3 months ago

Let's see a pic of mpu, still have a data sentry battery on it or remote battery installed? Alkaline damage anywhere on board or previously repaired? The machine is playing now though without issue,just not remembering high score?
-Mike

#7 3 months ago

Hi sorry I forgot this was the cleanest system 80 board set I have ever come across. Yes it did still have the data sentry battery on it but amazingly it didn't leak! And I took it off and tossed it out asap after getting the game home. I installed a CR2032 battery with holder and a blocking diode to prevent it from charging. I guess I just figured it out. I assumed (which I shouldn't have) that there should have been a default high score but for some reason there wasn't. So once I started and finished a game I put on a score of 59,600 which became the high score and now it switches properly between that and the 000,000. Even when the game is turned off and back on. So I guess it's on to the fun stuff of trying to fix and bulletproof the up kicker from the bottom playfield and the couple of other playfield transistor controlled solenoids which arn't working. Thanks for the willingness to help I appreciate it.

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#8 3 months ago

Make sure to add the pull-up resistors to the under-playfield transistors. Here's a great resource for info on system 80 games:

http://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%2F%2Farcarc.xmission.com%2FPinball%2FPDF%2520Pinball%2520Misc%2FBlack-Hole%2520and%2520Haunted-House%2520Repair%2520Guide.pdf&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNFPMdoxybzrJtcWJVi7dQ8y3y290g

Check pages 23 and 24 for info regarding the pull-up resistors i mentioned. Congrats on all your progress, btw! System 80 games can be intimidating to fix, but once you've done all the required ground mods, upgrades, etc, they seem to be pretty solid overall. Good luck! HH is an awesome game!

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