(Topic ID: 229439)
Lakeville, MN
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:I don't think I've ever played this game, so where do I know to add mylar protection? I guess I'll just look for the beat to shit spots on the old playfields.
The most important spot is where the ball drops on the far left, it will drop there most often as I think 2 places land pretty near each other onto the lower pf. Each game will drop the 4 places slightly different so you will need to see where yours drop. You can also get cliffy's if you don't already have them for the kickout hole and the middle drop down target hole. Now that I think about it, it's interesting they didn't put a gate on the kickup hole - but the ball does go down there quite a bit, so I recommend the cliffy.
Another place that seems to wear is the very top of the main pf coming out of the gate near the left corner to the left of welcome where that 'bumper' is that the ball will bounce off of.
Mine doesn't show any wear at all on the top kicker pf area...but someone suggested protecting that area too.
Your pop targets for a home use pin is probably fine w/o any mylar. In many cases putting mylar around those ends up causing issues down the road, but that is up to you.
As for the plastics, if they are original, they printing should be on the bottom of the plastic. The older replications were printed on the top of the plastic. I'm not sure if anyone has made any newer ones that are more like the originals or not.
Next up is to remove all the coils from their assemblies. Then I reinstall most everything loosely. This is how things will go through the ultrasonic. This game is pretty clean. This should be all this stuff needs.
I was going to rebuild the flippers but these parts look really nice. I’ll see how things turn out.
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Zemst
Quoted from thierryv:That's going to be a gorgeous HH .
Here an idea you maybe could steal, or you buy my a set of me ready to assemble ...
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks but my goal is to simply make this game as nice or nicer than when it left the factory. No glowing mods are needed.
What ultrasonic cleaner are you using Bryan_Kelly ?
I'm going to be doing a Black Hole playfield swap soon so will be watching this thread closely. Thanks for sharing your experience!
Quoted from thierryv:I assume the new playfields are pre dimpled on the back side ?
Yes they are.
Here's pictures of my restore I did back in 2013. Complete teardown and playfield restore on all three playfields.
This was the main playfield before clearcoat. I repainted all the orange/yellow diamonds, all the neon green... lots of work, but fun.
Here's the inside of my cab...
And here it is going back together...
Thought I had better pictures somewhere. Oh well. Have fun!
(Wow cell phone cameras have come a long way since 2013... these were from my old iPhone 3)
Quoted from bangerjay:Meh, I’m quitting, no more pinball restoration, don’t cry fo me, for I am already dead.-Bk
This isn't a restoration, asshole! It's a simple playfield swap. Don't you have holes to dig somewhere?
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:70 pics taken during the teardown of the main playfield. All taken throughout the process.
I've taken no notes yet. Everything I need to know is in the pics.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
yes, a picture tells a thousand words. however, the longer it takes you to get back to where you were, the more likely you are to forget. taking video during the disassembly process and providing "color commentary" is your best bet
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Upper playfield parts and lower playfield parts.
[quoted image]
the last time that I added parts immediately after adding the flitz, I found sections of the parts covered with a wet coating of walnut shells. I now find it best to add the flitz in, run the tumbler for a couple of minutes and then add the parts
Quoted from j_m_:yes, a picture tells a thousand words. however, the longer it takes you to get back to where you were, the more likely you are to forget. taking video during the disassembly process and providing "color commentary" is your best bet
Yeah, video ain't gonna happen.
Quoted from j_m_:the last time that I added parts immediately after adding the flitz, I found sections of the parts covered with a wet coating of walnut shells. I now find it best to add the flitz in, run the tumbler for a couple of minutes and then add the parts
True and I normally do just that with most parts. Never had an issue with smaller parts.
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