(Topic ID: 24730)

"Haunted House", identify this switch part number...

By bklossner

9 years ago


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  • 11 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by blownfuse
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switches.jpg
left-switch.jpg

#1 9 years ago

Riddle me this...

I'm looking to replace this very icky-looking switch on my "Haunted House" table but I'm not sure of the exact part number.

left-switch.jpg

#2 9 years ago

The switch appears to resemble this switch available at Marco:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-17838

The part number in the schematics lists the current switch as #B-18079 but the corresponding switch from Marco is listed for a replacement flipper switch, #B-17838.

Would the 17838 switch work as a replacement?

The switch is actually working fine, but I'm in the process of a complete overhaul and the lower aspect of the switch looks very disgusting and I'd like to replace it.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

-Bob

#3 9 years ago

that look like a normal target switch that the top part of it cracked and broke off. It should be a square or circle... you might want to look at pics of other haunted houses to see which it resembles to match color/shape

do you have a pic further away so we can see where in the playfield that switch is located?

#4 9 years ago
Quoted from bklossner:

The switch appears to resemble this switch available at Marco:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-17838
The part number in the schematics lists the current switch as #B-18079 but the corresponding switch from Marco is listed for a replacement flipper switch, #B-17838.
Would the 17838 switch work as a replacement?
The switch is actually working fine, but I'm in the process of a complete overhaul and the lower aspect of the switch looks very disgusting and I'd like to replace it.
Any thoughts?
Thanks!
-Bob

The 17838 will not work because it does not come with a stand-up bracket to mount it to the playfield. I would imagine Steve Young has the switch you need.

viperrwk

#5 9 years ago

Thanks for the advice so far Dynamite and viperrwk.

Attached is a zoomed-out photo of the left and right side of the playfield.

The right-side has very different switch contacts so I'm thinking the ones on the right should probably be the same model on the left.

There's this "stand-up bracket" switch via Marco for sale:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/22224-KIT

The description of it as a "slingshot" switch kit makes it seem like this one is more appropriate. Right?

Then again, I'll probably give Mr. Steve Young a holler on Wednesday afternoon and see what he thinks.

switches.jpg

#6 9 years ago
Quoted from bklossner:

The right-side has very different switch contacts so I'm thinking the ones on the right should probably be the same model on the left.

Correction.

I meant to say that I'm thinking this switch on the left should probably be the same as the two switches on the right-hand-side?

#7 9 years ago

Yes, the left and right switches use different contact points. The one on the left is a 10 point switch, this contact point handles less current. The switches on the right have to run a coil so the points are a little larger and made of a different alloy to handle more current. The only thing the same from left to right will be the bracket itself. You can drill out the rivets and order new switches from The Pinball Resource. Sorry I can't dig up the part numbers for you, gotta go to work.

Quoted from bklossner:

Thanks for the advice so far Dynamite and viperrwk.
Attached is a zoomed-out photo of the left and right side of the playfield.
The right-side has very different switch contacts so I'm thinking the ones on the right should probably be the same model on the left.
There's this "stand-up bracket" switch via Marco for sale:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/22224-KIT
The description of it as a "slingshot" switch kit makes it seem like this one is more appropriate. Right?
Then again, I'll probably give Mr. Steve Young a holler on Wednesday afternoon and see what he thinks.

#8 9 years ago
Quoted from blownfuse:

Yes, the left and right switches use different contact points. The one on the left is a 10 point switch, this contact point handles less current. The switches on the right have to run a coil so the points are a little larger and made of a different alloy to handle more current. The only thing the same from left to right will be the bracket itself. You can drill out the rivets and order new switches from The Pinball Resource. Sorry I can't dig up the part numbers for you, gotta go to work.

Though the manual (p 49) lists the part numbers for the 10pt switch and the right side kicker switch as being the same - B18079. It also has one switch labeled "Kicking rubber" as B18808. Without looking at the specific switches I can't say which ones go where.

viperrwk

#9 9 years ago
Quoted from viperrwk:

Though the manual (p 49) lists the part numbers for the 10pt switch and the right side kicker switch as being the same - B18079. It also has one switch labeled "Kicking rubber" as B18808. Without looking at the specific switches I can't say which ones go where.

Right. That was my main source of confusion last night as well. I was looking at the part list in the manual and couldn't see a difference even though the part numbers were the same.

The current switches are working fine actually. I was just tempted to order some new ones since the machine was in a current tear-down state.

Thanks for the help everyone.

#10 9 years ago
Quoted from bklossner:

Right. That was my main source of confusion last night as well. I was looking at the part list in the manual and couldn't see a difference even though the part numbers were the same.
The current switches are working fine actually. I was just tempted to order some new ones since the machine was in a current tear-down state.
Thanks for the help everyone.

As blown fuse says it's probably in the contacts - it also wouldn't be the first time a manual was wrong.

Best to email Steve Young with the part numbers and the question - if you need something different he will let you know.

viperrwk

#11 9 years ago

When I look in the 1982 parts catalog on page 121, it lists the 10 point switch being B-18079(common switch for low current) and the kicker switch as B-18808 (made for running non-controlled coils).

Quoted from viperrwk:

Though the manual (p 49) lists the part numbers for the 10pt switch and the right side kicker switch as being the same - B18079. It also has one switch labeled "Kicking rubber" as B18808. Without looking at the specific switches I can't say which ones go where.
viperrwk

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