(Topic ID: 235302)

Haunted House Coil Prob

By davrol

2 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 22 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by mynameisbond
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

20190208_162352 (1) (resized).jpg
s-l1600 (resized).jpg

#1 2 years ago

Just Purchased a Gottlieb Haunted House. Everything works, except for 4 coils!! 1, top main playfield middle kick out, 2 top level drop target bank, 3 Out hole (game start), 4 cellar kick out ( towards the front of the machine next to the drop targets).

I was hoping to see a loose wire somewhere but all looks good. All the switches work that are attached to the coils. The machine apparently worked before shipment but I needed to remove the head to get it to my property, I have carefully reconnected and checked the connectors.
I'm not a electrician but understand a little about how a pinball works. What's the best way to test coils? or fault find a problem like this. just not sure where to start. any help would be great.

#2 2 years ago

Under playfield fuse is blown. Look under the PF, you will find it

#3 2 years ago
Quoted from athens95:

Under playfield fuse is blown. Look under the PF, you will find it

Yes, check fuses, some under pf, some are in the cab by the front. Also there are under pf transistors that drive pops etc, and pop bumper boards. There were a handful of tech bulletins for the sys80 games, maybe those weren’t done?

#4 2 years ago

Also check A3j4 Connector. Pins 6 to 12 are connected to the coils you mention, and they may be rusty or broken...

#5 2 years ago

Hey thanks for that, found the fuse holder F15 but just blown another 2 fuses, it's blown when its just sitting in the out hole after I hit the start button could it be the out hole coil? Do I just need to look for a loose connection somewhere a long that line or would it be more complex?

#6 2 years ago

I wonder if you are having coils or other things staying locked on.

With those old games, it isn't a bad idea to just shot gun all the under pf transistors, rebuild or replace pop bumper boards, verify the ground mod(s) and check the edge connectors/replace.

You'll have to see what those fuses are for, and start tracing the wiring to see if there is a visual issue on that line or troubleshoot a logic issue.

#7 2 years ago

just tried turning the power on with the ball out of the hole and the fuse is blowing the moment I turn it on! the out hole coil looks fine and has continuity.

#8 2 years ago

Did you check the 4 bridge rectifiers ?
What happens if you switch the pinball on after you have disconnected the boards (CPU, driver, etc...) ?

#9 2 years ago

Hey There!

Just disconnected the A3-J4 connector, turn on and the fuse didn't blow!, that is the connector that supplies the coils with power it I think.

Checked the J4 connector pins look OK.

I'm a little ignorant about bridge rectifiers but I think they are the for diodes on the A2 powerboard c1,c2,c3,c4.

Tested the 4 diodes in-line, the bottom 2 diodes line side right .495, top 2 line side left .477, .478!

Thanks so much for the advise, my knowledge of electrics is quite bad, when I put the red lead of my DDM on the top of a transistor and the black to ground should I get a reading or a continuity sound?

#10 2 years ago

Well, when the fuses blow as soon as you switch the pinball on, it is often due to a bridge rectifier shorted. In an HH, there are 4 bridge rectifiers located at the bottom of the cabinet, close to the fuses (which are direct connected to them).

As you are facing a coil problem, it is more than possible that the 24V and/or the 38V bridge rectifiers are burnt.

Testing a bridge rectifier is quite the same as testing 4 diodes and Marvin's bible explains how to do this perfectly.

However, the values you mention for the 4 diodes in-line on A2 are good.

#11 2 years ago

Oups, forgot the last question : No continuity sound when testing a transistor, but a value depending on the transistor type.

#12 2 years ago

Thanks Bond, if and when I get to play my dream pin I'll owe you a beer or 2. Working like a dog so I'll take a look Friday, I'll let you know how it goes.

#13 2 years ago

I have a BR reading from the top 2 prongs .429 and bottom 2 prongs .399 when I reverse the leads on the DMM the top 2 prongs give me a 0 reading but the bottom 2 counts up from .400 to 1.999 then goes to 1. , right bottom to left top 0.925 op way 1. , left bottom to top right 0.001 and the same opposite way.

if I get a continuity sound from a transistor to GND is that bad?

#14 2 years ago

Hi Davrol,
Reading between each prong should be around .6 (and 0 the other way). So I suggest you change the bridges with 1.99 or changing values.

I don't think it is a problem if you have continuity form a transistor, as long as it is soldered.

Oh, and if you have to change some BR, I suggest you also change the orange capacitor if it has not been done yet.

#15 2 years ago

I've got some of these on order!
KBPC3502 Bridge Rectifier Diode 35A 200V,
Low reverse leakage
200V maximum repetitive peak reverse voltage
35A maximum average forward rectified current
400A peak forward surge current
6.4 x 0.8mm fast-on terminals

s-l1600 (resized).jpg
#16 2 years ago

Should be fine. Take care to respect polarity as the prong which is not the same direction than the 3 others is +. Its opposite is -. I made the mistake when I soldered a BR and the Fuse kept blowing.
Let us know if the fuses still blow instantly after BR are changed

#17 2 years ago

Removed the BRs but all tested OK, I've replaced all with new anyway just in case, very careful to get the everything as was but the fuse is still blowing with a much brighter flash than before!!

also sound not working now, don't know if is connected but F1 fuse is ok, can't find another fuse for the sound board. and also just noticed the playfield bonus lights and maybe some lights in the backbox lights appear not to be working.

I did a lot of research on BRs how to test and I sort of understand what's happening and logically sounds that's where the problem with the coils would be.
I'm a little worried I'm making things worse with the sound not working and some lights. I've seen a lot about the connectors between boards not being up to much but would a board connection problem cause a fuse to blow instantly?

The boards are all gottlieb originals except for the CPU which is a NI-Wumpdf which I think is from 2008 Rev H. and the machine has had a ground mod of somekind.

I'm so desperate to play cool game ahhhh

20190208_162352 (1) (resized).jpg

#18 2 years ago

Not the perfect advice but my BH did random crap when I got it. I ended up buying the pascal all in one board, and the game worked except some coils which I replaced the under pf transistors and rebuilt all pop bumper boards. Then I shipped all original boards out to Clive at the coin op cauldron to refurbish. Those components are super old so any component that’s out of spec could make some funny stuff happen. Maybe it’s worth having all the boards looked at? You also may want to consider repinning all or most of the connectors as another safe thing to do.

#19 2 years ago

Found the problem with the sound and lights. Just the fuse. Somekind of issue with the main fuse rail. Just rolled them around and light and switches came to life. Tested the F1 fuse for the sound power and doesn't register when in the holder . Just ordered a fuse kit with loads of fuses.

If I blew a fuse when a coil was fired I understand that it might be a problem with a driver board. It's just the power on thing. If I could establish that it was a board I definatly replace with a new, but for the monment I'll try and fault find.
I have noticed that the top drop target bank mechanism seems the be locked if I push targets down I can't use the arm attched to the coil to reset manually, I need to have a look.

#20 2 years ago

Fixed it, it was the 4 bank droptarget reset coil burnt and grounding the F15 fuse thanks for all your help, i've learnt loads in process from you kind people. I still have no sound but I think it's dew to the fuse block and old fuses. Hopefully I'll have full working machine by the end of the week. Just to say I spoke to a chap Bob from pinball Toys in the UK who really help out to find the prob. I was getting worried I was going the blow HH up. Thanks again for everyones help.

#21 2 years ago
Quoted from davrol:

Fixed it, it was the 4 bank droptarget reset coil burnt and grounding the F15 fuse thanks for all your help, i've learnt loads in process from you kind people. I still have no sound but I think it's dew to the fuse block and old fuses. Hopefully I'll have full working machine by the end of the week. Just to say I spoke to a chap Bob from pinball Toys in the UK who really help out to find the prob. I was getting worried I was going the blow HH up. Thanks again for everyones help.

awesome news! Yeah, this is exactly how I learned as well. It is SUPER daunting at first, but have a manual and a forum post and you'll find help

#22 2 years ago

Good to know guy ! I will need to talk to Bob too, as my HH is still soundless and F4 fuse still blows when the ball enters cellar (and I can't see any trouble with the "U" relay).

Investigations still in progress for me,

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside