Hey gang. Extremely pleased to finally be a part of this club. I've wanted a HH ever since I was a kid playing it on Microsoft's Pinball Arcade. There is something that is just SO cool about this game. Anyway, I picked this one up on the coast of Maine and I'm deciding to go the full restoration-route with this one. Doesn't need a whole ton of work as far as the playfield is concerned, but some.

I'm mostly here to have you all tell me what I should do and how I should do it! My plan is: do all the touchups by hand (I have an arts degree so this shouldn't be so hard), clear coat the play fields, do all the appropriate ground mods and pop bumper mods, get a new backglass or get this one restored.

Things I'm mulling over already:
One of the pop bumpers is dead. Not really sure how to go about fixing that board or if I should just go ahead and replace all the pop bumper boards with new ones.
While the color matching, hand painting, and paint application don't scare me, but the clear coat application does. I've got an auto body shop (where some of the owners are pin owners as well coincidentally) who are willing to do some clear coating on the play fields at $200 a pop so I'm planning on just sending it to them, but the whole plexiglass area on the playfield seems problematic to the clear coat process?
I need to learn how to repin molex connectors. You can probably see that there was some hack who did some "repairs" of just clipping one of the cables from A12-J/P4 connector and just tied the two grounds together (eek).
I'm sure I'll have some other questions in the future but right now those are the ones that hit me over the head.

Looking forward to hearing what you all have to say!

HH-0.jpg

HH-1.jpg

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Thanks for linking to your restoration! Looks like a very informative post and I'll be sure to my own version of that when I start mine! I've got a lot to learn obviously when it comes to solid state games!

Interesting to hear that both of you recommended the same process because it means that I've obviously read vid's tutorial way out of order. Will do some more reading and report back!

I've got an Amazing Spider-Man that I'm going to be doing some touchups on first before I do Haunted House, just because I care less about that machine and will be a good trial run.

Thanks everybody. So glad to have found this thread!

Yeah I've looked into this whole process because I think multi ball would be kind of cool. Speech however I think really ruins this game. That speech works well for Black Hole but not for Haunted House. Just doesn't jive well with the whole theme. Now if there was a Centaur-esque reverb with a Dracula voice... then that'd be cool but totally undoable.

I also think that the way the multi ball works interrupts the very small and simple ruleset of the game a little too much.

GTB-MA309 at http://www.pbresource.com/boards.html

I haven't used this because my games have either had original boards or aftermarket boards (PiFx boards came in my other two Sys80/Sys1 games neither of which the sound operates on, so any tips there are welcome).

Some updates on my game! It was playing just okay for a little bit of time before I dove into this shop but little things started going here and there and now the game no longer boots. What happened was: one of the pop bumpers stopped working, so I changed the transistor and the modifications on that board without realizing (like a complete dumbass) that the pop bumper fuse for that particular pop bumper had blown. In the process of testing that coil with the proper voltage, my hand slipped and a probe connected two points that shouldn't have connected. Quick firing of some coils and then the game stopped in its tracks. When I start the machine, the shoot again lights are lit, the right kicker kicks, 5 seconds of silence, then I get all displays pointing 0 and two kicks from the upper graveyard kicker every 30 seconds or so. Any tips on where to start poking around?

I've been watching Clay's TOP videos to try to better understand these games but some of this stuff just goes right over my head I'm afraid when it comes to chip logic and logic probes and reading chip schems.

Look at the recent archived sales on the market place.

Would it be possible to put the plastic OVER this? have this on the bottom and then have the plastic on top of it? Not a fan of the metal aesthetically, but does seem practical.

By the way everybody: still haven't gotten around to starting a the resto. I'll be posting pictures when I get started on it. The game is sitting disassembled right now. Not sure what to do with it. Not sure I actually have the time to do a full resto myself

I honestly hadn't noticed the organist on this plastic until I visited this thread. I feel like there's more stuff to see every time I look at this machine. This is absolutely the coolest machine ever made.

Wow. These are some REALLY BEAUTIFUL pieces of work. If mine were in worse shape, I'd be going this route.

I decided to put my Haunted House back together and have come to the conclusion that I'm just going to play the hell out of it and just put the restoration on hold. I found that I had an extra Rottendog Board just lying around for some reason so I popped it in HH to set it up. Right now it's playing properly but every sound only cycles through ONCE. The main tune will play ONCE and then end. The pop bumper noise will happen ONCE and then not again. Same for any of the sounds on the board. Any thoughts on this?

Trying to tune both HH and BH to a good playing condition to have some family and friends over this Friday, so any advice is helpful!

Looping back around to this. I still have yet to get the original MPU board of my Haunted House working. I checked and socketed and changed in new 7400 chips in Z13 and Z14 and got nothing. Just out of curiosity I put the MPU into my black hole and strangely enough it did the same thing. Turned the game on and it instantly kicks a ball out and lights the shoot again lamp. No 5 second waiting period. Curious if that should point me somewhere to a shorted chip or diode or something in the reset section of the board. I'm going to start digging around when I get home tonight and do some schematic looking to try and figure this out, but if you're reading this and have any pointers from memory, let me know!

Additionally, how have those metal "secret passage protectors" been working out? I've got a new set of plastics from PBR that I'm hoping to install soon but figured I'd get some reviews from you all to see if you're happy with those protectors. I'd throw some cash at one of you to whip one up if you have the capacity.

Someone can jump in and correct me on this one, but I had a similar problem with a System 1 game that I had a while ago. It ended up being the bulb harness for the pop bumper, which are notoriously finicky. I had to take the pop bumper out, recondition/re-tension the bulb harness fixture (there's got to be a proper word for that doo-hickey) and the put it all back together. I /think/ I also put a lot of tubular heat shrink around the base pegs and that fixed it for me.

I don't know if this is a upload flub but I CANNOT tell the difference between the before and after photos here. Also noticing that the backglass for sale doesn't have the silver plating on the back. Is this normal for BGResto jobs?

Just had a lot of 6532 chips come in last night. Before I put any new ones onto a board, I socketed all the 6532 spaces, and just for the hell of it, swapped all three of them around to different places. Logically if the problem stemmed from those chips, if I swapped them to different places, the described locking effect wouldn't happen or at least it would affect the game differently...

Going to do some clueless poking around once this logic probe comes in (or rather my friend who has a spare one comes home). I'll keep you all posted!

I've had a Black Hole in my apartment for the past few months, and I'm going to cycle BH out for HH in the coming weeks

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/88320

This is HORRIBLY dirty but the playfield actually looks amazing. No wear on the scoop. No wear on the secret passage. Barely any wear around the window. No kicker playfield wear. Basement looks good. If I were closer, I'd pick this up without a doubt.

Second on both of these comments. Playfield doesn't look bad! The lighted flipper button mods for the respective levels is pretty cool and subtle.

This might be an unpopular opinion (and its your game, do whatever you want to it) but I think this particular example is done up really tackily. Flipper blades look stupid. The LED color matching is over the top. Not super tastefully done in my book. If I bought this thing, the first thing I would do with it is rip those flipper blades off, change it all to warm white LEDs (or hell better yet, #47s to get that attract lighting to dance properly) and get some stock instruction cards.

Congrats! Has a Pascal board too which is awesome.

Dunno about everybody else but I’m gonna need a less shitty picture in order to help. My guess is its someone trying to do an extraneous ground mod(?) but need more info.

Your VUK problem is probably an alignment issue. The standard coil needs to be upgraded to a stronger coil, bu the alignment and cleanliness of the tube is just as important. Watch Clay's video on the matter.

Ugh, did they ship it to you??? I thought it was a firm pickup.
Thanks for posting the pictures to soothe my curiosity. God damn if that isnt a beautiful original playfield. If you end up not piecing together a machine let me know and I’ll buy them from you.

Yes, that's normal. The lower playfield lighting runs on 28vdc and uses #313 bulbs. There are a few people in this thread who cover converting the lower playfield GI to #44/5vdc bulbs. It's quite easy with Black Hole and I think it's a similar procedure for HH, but the location of the relays are different.

I've had both of my games converted to run on 5Vdc and put 2SMD Clear LEDs from Comet and it looks fantastic. I think the ghosting actually creates a kind of cool affect on the lower playfield, makes it look other worldly and different from the upper playfield.

I believe it's a completely different game in the menu selection, but I don't own the board so I can't tell you for sure.

Yes, the multiball feature is quite a bit of work. It's cool but you really need to have all your resourced locked in and ready before you consider doing it.

http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/hauntedhouse/index.html

Just spotted these for anybody who needs them. Worth it for the green covers alone almost.

ebay.com link: Gottlieb System 80 Pinball 7 DIGIT DISPLAYS FROM HAUNTED HOUSE UNTESTED LOTOF 4

I figured it was a typo.

Which is also odd to me. Again, the covers are pretty rare to see so I was mostly posting for those. I will say one thing that strikes me as odd is that the seller says they came out of a HH, so there's a chance they're correct. Anyway. Just figured I'd pass it along.

Shooting in the dark, but I had the same issue when I first got mine. The speakers are wired in SERIES on this machine, so that means that if any of the cables come disconnected at any time from any of the speaker terminals, you'll loose sound. Check those terminals and get back to me! Every time you move one of the connectors, you are, in one way or another down the line, moving the speaker cables around unless they're tied down.

If that's not it, tell us, are you getting amplifier hum? Any signs of if its the amplifier going bad or the sounds not firing? The amplifiers on those boards are notoriously unstable.

I'm not super familiar with the Pascal boards so I can't confirm how the sound tests work on his board, but if you're getting complete silence you can isolate your problem to the Sound Board, its connectors, and the voltages coming into it or out of it. I would bet a 6-pack of lager that it's a connection issue, either molex, IDC, or speaker terminal somewhere down the line. Before you chase down all those wires though:

1.) Get your meter out and test all your fuses (never rely on your eyes!!!)
2.) Check the Sound Board input voltages. Pin 10 should be your +30vdc, Pin 1 should be your +12vdc, Pin 5 should be +5vdc, Pin 3 should be -12vdc. If those are all present and you still aren't getting amplifier sound, you either have a bad connector somewhere post-audio output, or the amplifier is toast (which can happen from improper wiring of the speakers putting an incorrect impedance load on the amplifier for long periods of time and likely won't show any visible burnout).
3.) If the voltages mentioned above are NOT present, check the S/S Power Supply to make sure it's getting all of it's proper input/output voltages. It is bonkers to me that an aftermarket board doesn't have voltage test points, but oh well. I notice there's an additional ground on the S/S PSU that is just lying around... don't let that just sit there. Tie that sucker down to a proper ground and while you're at it tie the other boards down too. Not sure where to tie the Pascal board down, but email Pascal and I'm sure you will get a quick, helpful response.

I'm hoping somebody can chime in and tell us how to test to see if the amplifier is bad. While putting in a new more stable amplifier is cheap, it can be a messy job even for people who are proficient at board modifications. If the amp is the problem, I would recommend just getting a new board from Fred Swemmer. I just got one for Black Hole and it works so nicely and is tricked out with voltage indicator LEDs which is a really nice touch.

BIG EDIT:
If your voltages are fine and you aren't getting any sound, there is definitely a chance that something on the board went. Resistor, Cap, Hex Inverter, SOMETHING but then you're in board repair land and I'm not much help there.

Unfortunately that won't do much if the speakers aren't getting any signal!

Not quite sure I understand... You've listed 11 voltages and there's 12 pins on that connector. I think I'm a little lost on your description of which connector you're testing. For reference: The sound card connector should be A6P1 and the S/S PSU connector should be A7P1. Please refer to them in that way moving forward.

Hm, well, those are some wild voltages. I notice for the most part (with the exception of Pin 3 normally indicating -12v and the last 3 pins not really having much interaction with +5v of U16...) they are pretty consistently double double what you should be seeing (or I guess if you consider double -12v being 12v it checks out but PEMDAS reigns supreme).

Sure your meter is set to the correct DC voltage readings and your ground is proper? Anybody else want to chime in and tell me I'm talking out of my ass?

I'm on my third glass of scotch over here so I feel you.

Yea, like I've been saying, I bet it's a connector issue. When I looked closer at the schematic, the volume put is the last thing the sound hits before it his the speaker. Maybe try re-soldering the contacts on the volume pot and spraying it with deoxit? Also maybe try reseating any connectors between A6P1 and the volume pot and seeing what happens.

Regularly people will test to see if potentiometers are logarithmic or linear by connecting the middle and one of the outer tabs with one prong of the DMM and the last outer tab with another prong of the DMM. If you turn the knob, you should see a difference. If you put a prong to both of the outer tabs, you should she the total resistance of the potentiometer no matter what position its in.

So I cross reference Black Hole and Haunted House together pretty frequently (I have both) and the audio section is where things start to differ ever so slightly. However, both potentiometers are supposed to be 100ohms (though the stock wattage of each resistor is questionable). The x10k meter is maybe a little high for a 100ohm resistor so that might make the reading not change all that much. Check it on the 100 ohm setting.

Well hey, at least you got four green covers!

Do the Pascal PI-80 boards allow for 7 digit connectors to be used without modification or do you need to modify the boards/connectors too?

I don't believe that the multi ball modifications requires a 7 digit display, no. But I DO know that if you want 7 digit displays with the original board, it's so much work that it is absolutely not worth it.

I've had luck with just thumbing through the wire bundles and keeping track of my wire colors. They should all be properly labeled and their placement should be described pretty well in the manual. I keep a little print out of the color coding taped on the inside of my games : )

I would highly recommend taking the volume pot out of the machine and giving it a good spray of deoxit and popping it back in (never do this inside of a game) or just buying a new pot (cheaper than buying deoxit).

Even if they did make new wiring harnesses, you wouldn't want to get a whole new harness for something like this. There are about 4 million tabs to solder and unsolder, 900 connectors to repin, and a million headaches and bottles of beer waiting for you. The only time you'd want a full wire harness change is if you have BIG issues with your wires (say a family of mice had their way with them for 10 years in a barn somewhere). Not sure about that white powder (didn't get left behind by some hooligan now did it?) but I would be impressed if it was battery corrosion somehow and if it was, I think you'd have some bigger problems on your hands. Could have been from leaky caps maybe, but I'd also be impressed about that too. I wouldn't worry too much about it.

Let me preface this: I don't have a Haunted House at my apartment, just a Black Hole right now but the way I understand it, they are pretty similar under the hood so let me break this down:

•Does the Pascal board work? That means you're getting proper input voltages from the bridge rectifiers and transformers (I think there should be a 5vdc+ LED indicator somewhere on the board). Is there proper 5vdc present on the pascal board? (Yes? Go to next step, No? check your bridge rectifiers, but like, if the answer is no your game probably wouldn't have started)

•Check continuity from Pin 18 of A1J6 and pin 5 of one of the pop bumper connectors. Any buzz? (Yes? Skip to bottom, No? go to next step)

•On Black Hole, the pop bumpers get powered (I think, please someone correct me if I'm wrong I'm just putting stuff together from the schematic and a different game) all the pop bumpers get power from pin 18 from connector A1J6. There should be a hub (or maybe a few) that connects all the 5vdc+ from the pop bumpers to Pin 18 of A1J6 and I'm assuming it's towards the top of the playfield (or rather, the side of the playfield near the shooter lane curve and upstairs playfield). Make sure that there is continuity from that hub and Pin 18 of A1J6 to this hub. See if you see any stray Blue Slate Slate wires (the color code for the 5vdc+ on the pop bumpers).

•Pin 5 of every pop bumper connector (at least on the upper playfield, unsure about the lower playfield) should have continuity. Test from board to board. If they all have continuity, they are connected properly to the hub.

Check those things and get back to me. If there's continuity, you've got me stumped too other than somehwere along the line, maybe there's a stray wire that's grounding the whole lot. I should have some alone time to go to my parents house where Haunted House is sitting, unplugged and unloved, and snap some pictures for you.

Ooooooo additionally it could be that there is something wrong with your AC voltage going into the pop bumpers too, but if I recall correctly, the upstairs and downstairs pop bumpers run on 24Vac and the Main playfield runs on 38Vac... seems unlikely that they’d all be bad. Also not sure how those Rottendog Test LEDs work, but I’m assuming if the board was working, even if the AC voltages were bad, the led would still light when you hit the test button.

Can you snap a quick photo of the wires with context (surrounding boards/associated plugs) and we may be able to help you further.

You said that there were some frayed/burnt wires? Not seeing them.

It seems that someone has already repined your A1J6 and A1J5, Triple check that all those wires are making proper contact (to me they look to be crimped a little too early and are missing the wire tubing and just double crimped onto the stranded wire, which I try to avoid).

Please do the continuity test I walked you through my previous posts.

Do you mean color matched for playfield touchups?

The only matched color is the one that you mix yourself they say.

My HH playfield has some pretty intense wear as well here and there, but I'm going to cut my teeth on some other play fields before I try and do any restoration on my HH. I'll keep my eyes peeled if anybody has some color suggestions!

Ha! Love the tilt bob cam! Very inventive.

ebay.com link: 0

If anybody is missing the green covers.

While I've heard good things about the NiWumph boards and I love the added features, it's a totally different system and a lot of those features are all dependent on the internal setting via the sub menus on the board (from what I remember).

Try doing this modification on your original board and pop it back in and see if it changes anything.
https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Slam_Switch_Modification

Haunted House is a 1 ball game.

Also +1 here.

I hear this trick referred to often on Sys1 games, but the battery corrosion issue on this particular connector are less common on sys80 games. Sys1 the pins would get all corroded and would fall out easily because they were directly under the battery. Not so on the Sys80 interconnect. Usually they just become weak and not making strong contact. Also keep in mind that if you're willing to DIY it, Docent Electronics still sells pin and wire kits that are all crimped and ready to just remove and repin yourself, if you can get past the website that hasn't been redesigned since 1999.

Adding on to the leg height discussion, are Black Hole and Haunted House supposed to be this same height? I would assume the answer is no due to the legs, but I just imagined that all the games from the same series would be designed to look nice in a lineup...

Or rather my aesthetic OCD is really taking hold.

I agree. Its the playfield wear that bothers me the least. Also a game that I really believe NEEDS the incandescents to make it feel like an old house. I also keep reminding myself that Mirco makes good repros if I ever want to do a FULL overhaul of it, cabinet glass and playfield.

Finally, after a year of this game showing up DOA and only now getting it into my place and out of storage to work on it, IT’S ALIVE!!!

Working out the kinks now:
1.) Lower pop bumper blows its fuse every time.
2.) Playfield window looks like it was part of a horrible DIY job... totally mishapen
3.) The ball launch gate above the three holes is pretty tight and if you soft plunge, the ball gets stuck.

F3775625-4C91-4D33-B105-18C7530FAB1A (resized).jpeg

Is the window on this game supposed to be green or clear? Mine is clear and looks like someone DIY'd a replacement at one point. Marco has new windows in stock so thinking of picking one up...

Alright so I've run into a bit of a problem with my Haunted House. The lower left pop bumper does not work. Blows a fuse immediately upon engaging as does the diode. Here's what I've found out so far and I'm hoping one of you know what's going on.

All of the PBDB are modified and working properly. When swap the boards, the lower left is still the issue.
The pop bumper works fine once, but MAYBE twice if I'm lucky.
The fuse is the proper 2.5A Slow Blow (and still busts when a 3A is put in).
The diode tests open in both directions after one firing.
The coil is a 4893, NOT the 1496 as prescribed in the manual.
The 38V+ wire seems to be in tact and gets good continuity from bridge rectifier to coil.

I've read plenty of people trying to change their pop bumper coils to 4893 to give them "more pop" which is ridiculous, but seems common enough. Would that be the supposed issue at hand or should I do some more digging into the wiring harness to see if something isn't rubbing right?

I've got a new coil on order from Steve, so hopefully that will fix it. The wrapping is all shrunk onto the coil so I'm hoping that solves it.
If it were the bridge rectifier, In theory, it would also be doing the same thing to the the other solenoids running on +38VDC though, no?

Another thing I'm curious about. In order to get my lower playfield raised up, I have to pull the main playfield up with one hand, flip the service bar past its slot and over toward the front of the game, pull the main playfield into its upright service position, THEN I can raise the lower playfield. Is that how the rest of yours is? Seems like it would be fixed easily if the prop bar was just 1/2" higher, but I'm always weary of drilling new holes.

Mad_Dog_Coin_Op coming through with the high res photo! I was having a hard time telling what I was looking at with the other photo.

Sorry if my wondering was confusing. The pop bumper in question is the pop bumper to the left of the main playfield flippers. That seems to share a DC source with the other main playfield pop bumper. So I doubt it's that.

I guess there's nothing I hate more than ordering a new part to only have it not end up not solving the issue.

Allow me to join you.

Picked this rugged stuff up when I was in the Czech Republic last year. They're big on absinth over there....

HauntedAbinsith.gif

IMG_0513 (resized).JPG

But at least your playfield is in stellar condition!

I studied in Prague for a semester in college and got really into the stuff. Also kind of where I was re-introduced to pinball. The Bar I lived above had a Shadow that I played almost every night. Great city with some good pinball (and lots of good beer and liquor). Have been wanting to go to Terra Technica the next time I'm there for work. Legendary collection there with quite a few Sys80 games (HH included)

Finally got my Haunted House put back together. epeabs was kind enough to help me with some cleaning and polishing and refinishing of some topside metal parts. When everything came back together, a few things happened.

1.) the displays are all wonky. Player 2 is consistently on, all segments, all the time. Players 3, 4, and the bonus display strobe gently with care and artistry
2.) The lower pop bumper works (was dead before) but now the lower main PF pop and the upper PF pop rapidfires when held down. Obviously this doesn’t affect gameplay as a ball doesn’t hold the pop down, but it shouldn’t be that way.
3.) The lightning effect does nothing.

My hyposthesis. Help me out and let me know if my thinking is correct.
1a.) Two suspects. A1J6 has been replaced and whoever did it did a shitty job. I’ve been waiting to find a NOS edge connector to replace it, but to no avail. When I would disconnect and reconnect that cable, it would make a difference (working to not working) but now it does nothing. From my understanding, that was just the switch matrix send/return, but maybe it has a larger effect?

Should I be replacing the 7448 chips on the upper right or should I be looking at the driver board? I am lucky enough to have a Swemmer MPU so switching the chips would be easy. When I got the game the driver board was acting up. I replaced it with one I “thought” was working. Possibly not though.

2.) No clue on this. Switching pop bumper boards does nothing. Not really sure on this one.

3.) I’m wondering if, since the lightning board is giving me issues and the displays are wonky, it has to do with the quad of 7448 chips on the upper right corner since theyre all on the same wire stack running from the CPU to the Displays and the Lightning Board, but I’m a lost on where to start.

2DBDB252-AAA2-4E3E-9979-583C135EDC08 (resized).jpeg

Displays make no change. Must be the MPU. Bummer.
Replaced the 7448s and no change. Not sure if I can replace the 7404s with whatever other 7404 exists (74LS04 or SN74LS04N or whatever else exists). Game plays fine else-wise which I feel like is the lucky part.

The filter cap was changed when I got it but was one with an absurdly high value. Changed it to a 10,000uf 50V cap so that should be working well enough (advice given directly from Clay’s videos)

If you aren’t skilled enough in boardwork to socket all these chips yourself (like me), do yourself a favor a buy a Swemmer board. He does incredible work.

Edit: gdonovan is someone you can trust when it comes to boardwork advice. Not totally sure if this will solve all the problems I’m having, but half the test points on the PSU are half their suggested voltage.

All the edge connectors are good EXCEPT A1J6 which to my understanding is the switch matrix connector which shouldn’t directly affect the displays. It works, but some genius did a real hack job on replacing it at some point. If you have a NOS connector for J6 or a replacement, I’ll buy it.

For anybody who was waiting with bated breath about how my problem resolved itself:
Changed all of the ICs that were associated with the digits and strobes. Nada. Changed the U5 6532. Zilch. Sured up all the grounds for all over the boards. Nothing. I even bought a new PSU and Driver Board because some of the test points weren't reading correct (and also I had had a few drinks and thought why the hell not, I'll support a small business and some Pinsiders).

Guess what! Turns out I'm having a finicky A12J4/P4 at the base of the backbox. The +60vdc and the +42vdc were shaky on the PSU, but guess what, it was because the connectors weren't as tight as they should be. I know everybody says one million times "check all the connectors". Well let me make it one million and one. CHECK ALL OF YOUR INTERCONNECTS FIRST.

Has anybody had success with different connectors for the A12 interconnections to make them a little more stable? Will repining make a difference for those or should I spring for new connectors?

Also, shoutout to MadDog CoinOp who shipped me some other handy connectors and has also helped out plenty of people in this thread if you follow the trails.

Thanks all,
Ty

Any Haunted House Fans wanna do a Matchplay Challenge?

Basically we give one another a call or facetime call, and pick a score to reach. Best of 3, 5 or 7 games.

Eh?

Any body need some spare plastics? These are just taking up space in my house (also haunted). The big right playfield plastic is busted, as is the upstairs VUK so I threw those out. The large lower playfield plastic has a corner out. Secret passage is as expected.

Before I put them away for good, figure I ask if anybody needs em.

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Shay has Haunted House backglasses (or did at least).

Get Fred Swemmer’s Board if you need just the MPU. Avoid the Rottendog board unless you have multiple Sys80s. If you need the PSU and MPU get the Pascal.

I feel like you could probably build your own with the right switch stacks/relay coil/bracket?

Seems to me like the first thing you should check is the back of 3 relays that are underneath the main playfield all the way to the back. Make sure you don’t have any stray wires or shorted contacts.

Does that change if you're using an aftermarket board?

Here's some info I can dole out that might help. I'm going to get over my head and hopefully someone more knowledgeable than me can come in and save the day when it comes to understanding how the S/S board gets triggered and CPU stuff and all sorts of gobbledygook.

From my understanding of it, sounds are triggered by bits being switch-commanded first from the U6/6532 (I kind of understand how that works), then through the Z31/7408 (I barely know what this chip does), then to the driver board where the pulses are sent through Z13/SN7404N (this one I think I understand) representing sound bits 1-8 and Q10 MPS-A13 representing sound bit 16 (which from my understanding is a space saver to not have another SN7404N since S32 (bit 6 of the system) is unused in this game), THEN those signals go to the sound board and get decoded.

I have a Haunted House, it runs a Swemmer MPU, NiWumpf Driver, Gulf PSU, Stock S/S Board and S/S Power Supply. All boards have a ground wire running to the same spot (key lock which is then tied down into the cabinet). When I start my game, I get no clunk and no "target sound/spider web sound". The other day I was servicing (or rather attempting to resurrect) a dead HH at a location. That game was running stock boards with the exception of a Swemmer MPU. HIS game with the Swemmer MPU was making the sound on startup. It was also having the problem where the two VUK coils were locking on (which I didn't have time to diagnose and will be going back over soon but that all ties into the problem). When I did finally get it sort of working, it was still giving the "target sound/spider web sound".

So my guess that what's happening is that there are some stray voltages from an improper ground/drainage or a bad transistor that's storing some residual voltage somewhere on the driver board that is causing that specific sound to fire on startup? Maybe repining the edge connectors on A3J6? Maybe Repining A3J2, Pin 5 of A10J4/P4, Pin 14 of A12J4/P4, and A6P1? As an aside, I've traced quite a few problems on my Haunted House (stray voltages/bad connectors) down to A12J4/P4. For some reason, with that many round molex connectors, it just seems like it struggles to keep up tension between all of them. Since S16 travels through that, maybe that's a reason why so many people might be getting a stray sound?

@robotworkshop, can you tell me about what ground mods you have done to your game? Just the single jumper between the MPU and Driver? Each board tied down separately? Let me know. I'm curious to figure this one out.

I’ve had issues with this AND the aux light board and they all stemmed down to the A12J/P4 connector. Not saying that that’s your issue, but try unplugging and replugging that one in and seeing if you think that makes any difference.

No, all 5 bits go to the driver board, although one of them goes to a repurposed lamp driver transistor and the other 4 go to Z13/SN7404N. The 6th actually has a line that connects the sound board but it dead ends in the middle of the cabinet.

What did the 5v adjustment involve? Just a turning of the trim pot? Wouldn’t be surprised if that might have sometime to do with it.... but again, I’m firing shots in the dark.

HH that I've been working on for someone started doing some absolutely insane shit.

When a game starts, it will just advance through balls and say game over without shooting a ball out at all. Seems odd because I was under the impression that if you house ball without a switch it would just keep kicking the ball out... Anybody have thoughts on what to point to?

I would if I were there, but this is a friend’s machine that is almost 3hr away. He says the trough switch is working.... but.... ya know.

It has a Swemmer MPU that checks out, but stock everything else, but it DOES sound like an MPU issues doesn’t it?

Yes

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/haunted-house-playfield-swap

Dunno if Bryan will chime in but he does some pretty killer work and did a great job documenting his playfield swap. I actually referenced this thread pretty often when I was doing a full topside teardown.

I'm so glad I did mine. Did take a little shaving down with the Dremel to make it fit flush but been good ever since.

Great combo. Equally as frustrating. I really enjoy having GG on the background while I'm working on pins, because it helps occupy this part of my brain that can be totally shut off when I'm thinking about technical info. Same goes for when I'm playing. Often times, at tournaments, I'll have headphones on. What am I listening to? Usually old episodes of This American Life that I can recite from memory.

I doubt I'll ever sell my HH, and when I do, it will be when I clear our my whole collection. It's the game that started the whole thing for me, and I had to rent a private barge to go to an island just to get it (and then have it be DOA when I got it back).

Check your U-Relay switches.

Colsond3 it's so fun to see both the lower level games together. I have that lower level plastic but it's also got a chip out of it (not as bad as yours).

They go out of stock super fast, but the plastic protectors that Marco sells for both the secret passage and that lower level plastic are essential in my opinion.

Good tip. I might purchase one just to have another on hand

No, from my understanding the switches run through the switch matrix and the sound triggers are sent through U4-6532-1 and then sends signals to the Z7408 that operates as the sound control. Could be a break in the data/address buss. Could be an issue with your sound board. I kind of know how all of those things work in theory, but not sure which one I'd suspect for that issue.

Whoever bought up the last of Steve's stock.

It never feels good though. You will always feel like you're doing something wrong.

A link would probably be helpful too.

Not correct unfortunately.

On Black Hole, all the points scored on the lower playfield are collected in the bonus.

On Haunted House, it's "any lit target" which means any standup target that is lit, or any drop target that is up. This includes the kickback targets, the standup targets, and any up drop targets, on all playfields only when lit. It does not include pop bumpers or slings on any of the playfields. When you complete a 1-2-3-4-5 target, hitting that same target still adds to the bonus. There are certain rollover switches that add to the bonus, but I am not sure which ones do and which ones don't (for example, the left upper outlane that opens the trap door does, but the one below it only does when lit (and there's an insert for it).

For a bit, I was really curious about how and why each one of these targets scores to the bonus, but I guess it's all random. See attached picture from the manual. Turns out, everything is clearly described in the manual (go figure)

I love Haunted House and I will only ever get rid of mine to get a nicer one, but damn, this game is so poorly thought out and the rules are dogshit.
Screen Shot 2021-09-22 at 10.33.30 AM (resized).png

I can get 1-2, 4-5 pretty easily. The 3 and the extra ball are usually luck on HH for me.

There are no fuses in the backbox. All fuses are on the fuse panels or the playfields IIRC.

Either way, the lock on HH is on the upper left part of the head. It might be missing. Then you're in for a fun time.

Read your manual. It's online

There are a few GTB manuals that have somehow slipped through the C&D cracks, not exactly sure how, but nothing a little googling for a manual with some typos can't find ya.

I"m going to copy and paste this into the Sys80 thread but I'm having a bit of trouble getting my Haunted House's sound to work after pulling it out of storage. Good news is, other than that, the game plays perfectly after sitting in my basement for a bit. Stoked about that.

When I put it all back together, the audio was working, but was really ugly and distorted, but present. After letting it sit off for a day or two, I got no sound at all. I noticed the -12v was bad and was only doing -7v. Pulled another S/S power supply. I had lying around and now it's booting and sounding nice, HOWEVER I have no sound impulses at all any more. When the board is just sitting, it plays the attract mode sounds loud and clear, but I can't get any of the impulses form the game to do anything!

NiWumpf Driver, Swemmer CPU, rebuild PSU, stock sound board (sound board and driver board tested against working backups I have)

A few things:
All the voltages on the sound board are correct.
I've swapped sound boards and driver boards with known working ones. No change.
Replaced Z31, Z15 on the CPU. No change.

Thoughts on where to look here?

Well, there you have it.

Reflow the header pins and do the mod.

Make sure the coils are the correct value. A-1496 IIRC

Well, I'm doing the unthinkable and operating my Haunted House on location in Boston. Here goes nothing.

Pops_Pinball-03 (resized).jpg

Looking for a spare ramp that goes up to the upper playfield. Thanks in advance.

Hey there Haunted Housers, I'm looking for the upper playfield ramp for HH. Just need the metal ramp itself.

Thanks

The upper playfield GI daisy chains from somewhere off the main playfield GI and is connected via pins 2 and 9 on A9P6. Check to see if you have voltage there and where those wires go to. Those seem like they must be pretty easy ones to break off and not reconnect.

Ditto on the return. Check pins 1 and 8, and also check their interaction with relay U.

Wire color on the send side should be Purple Slate Slate, and on the return side should be Black Black Black.

Good luck.

Hi all, I'm looking for a new B-19548 transformer. No longer getting the 8vdc offset output from mine.