Haunted House
Gottlieb, 1982You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider mad_dog_coin_op.
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Hi HH fans. This is the third pin I ever purchased and my wife's favorite. It is never leaving our collection. It also makes a good backdrop for alcohol. By the way, I have a ton of playfield spare parts if anybody is looking for something. I stripped a set of playfields that were shot. I have lots of metal parts and assemblies I'm willing to part with. Just pop me a PM. Thanks
20171006_174438 (resized).jpgQuoted from DrWaz:Seems to happen the most when the ball is draining but happens other times too. I have adjusted the contacts almost to the point the the pop doesn’t work when it’s actually supposed to but it doesn’t stop the random activation.
Trace that questionable pop bumper back to it's pop bumper board (one of the small boards under the playfield). Swap that pop bumper board with one of your know good boards. If the problem moves you know you have a bad pop bumper board. 
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Still haven't found the issue yet. I'm leaning toward a bad ground. Almost has the sound of a transformer when the laminated core is going bad and it hums.
Going to pull the power board for the sound and go over that to see if I can find any issues there.
In my mind this can only be one of two things. The first is the pins in the following locations. The second is a failed sound card. Re-pin first and report back your findings. 
HHBoard (resized).jpgQuoted from Robotworkshop:I'm going to do the mods one at a time to see if any of them solve the sound issue. The sounds were perfect before moving the machine and I don't believe the issue will end up being on the sound card itself as i've already gone through that.
First board I pulled off was the power supply for the sound card. Just noticed there was corrosion around the screw, nut, and washer where the voltage regulator is supposed to make contact with the trace on the pcb which looked to be a poor connection. That is the first thing I'm cleaning up.
To be honest, the ground mods aren't that important if your pins are good. Those edge connector pins ware out quick. Have you replaced the caps on the sound board? I have a couple test wires with alligator clips that I use to test grounds. This allows you to move your ground from board to board without doing perminate changes. Very helpful in troubleshooting something like this.
This is easy. You have a bad transistor on the light chase board. I see one has already been replaced. You should be able to use your multi meter to figure out the bad one. There is several YouTube videos on how to test transistors. I believe there is one transistor for every wire. Should make things simple.
Quoted from pindude80:I want to get green flipper rubbers for my game. I wrote to Pinball Resource to see if they have the narrow Gottlieb flipper rubbers in green but they don't. For those of you that have switched to green flipper rubbers what kind did you use? Did you use regular width flipper rubbers?
Titan Pinball has good stuff. I went with the correct sized flipper rubber. I put glow in the dark on the upper and lower playfields and went with orange on the main. Looks really good.
Quoted from pindude80:Ok, I'll have to look into the Titan stuff. I guess they have the narrow Gottleib flipper rubber?
You have any pics of yours?
not mine but off of Titan's web site. It is where I got the idea.
b205cdce6911a525112f0f42f82e699a[1] (resized).jpgQuoted from DrWaz:Ground mods have been done. I’ll have to look at the rest. Seems weird that it worked just fine before I went on vacation and now it’s not.
All Gottlieb Sys 80 pins need thier power supplies rebuilt at some time. My guess is the power supply needs some help or you need to repin or replace your power cable going to the MPU. This is assuming you have already replaced the orange capacitor in the bottom of the cab. That thing causes all sorts of funny issues when it goes.
Quoted from Colsond3:Back in the club.
Ironically, two weeks after I picked up a project HH (and drove far to get it) my buddy who bought my old one two years ago asked me if I wanted it back.
So....picked my old one back up and sold the project one this past weekend. Forgot how sweet this one is. CPR backglass, Swemmer MPU and driver boards (with ribbon cable, getting rid of that problematic interconnect harness).[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
HH is a great game! Is it just me or is your HH on the wrong legs? Your photo makes it seem on the short side.
Quoted from Jasenwm:So I played this at the sellers house and it worked fine. I removed the head to transport it. I get it home reconnect everything. It turns on all lights work and goes into attract mode coins up but when I push start to start a game it just takes a credit away and won't start a game? I've checked the connectors and tried everything I can think of. I'm thinking it's a connection or the slam switch? Idk I'm out of ideas
The slam switch should be closed on old Gottliebs. Tone it out with your Multimeter and see if it really is closed. The problem child is usually the one on the door. Jumper it if you have to. Also make sure there is a ball in the ball trough.
Quoted from gdonovan:Would not be booting I think.
It will boot but the displays usually light up with all ones or zeros. Another likely problem is worn out connectors on the cable running between the MPU and the driver board. Those pins are hard to get these days (very obsolete).
Quoted from Jasenwm:When it first boots on the displays come on Immediately no five second. Delay and they're all, zeros
Jumper the slam switch on the door to the closed position and repeat the power on test. Does it act different? How are the pins on your cable running between the MPU and driver board? You might need to replace / repair that cable. PM me if you want a new one, I still have NOS parts to make those. Do you know how to clean the edge connectors on the board? The best way is very old school. Take the board out and use an old rectangular rubber pencil eraser on the edge connectors until they are shinny. Clean the area with alcohol and reassemble. Do not sand them. A lot of people do and it is just plain wrong. Report back your findings. Don’t worry, we’ll help you get it sorted out.
If your pins are good (that’s a big if because they are almost always shot) and the game worked before I would try swapping the driver board from your Mars God of War. You can also try swapping the power supply. It is nice to have an extra system 80 hanging around. The mpu / driver cable should be firmly attached to the board. If it slides off easily the pins are worn out. It would be helpful if you could post a photo of the pins on the MPU side of the connector. That is where the damage usually takes place.
The door slam switch should be closed. The other problem switch is at the base of the main playfield by the coin door. That one should be open. Those two combined with the trough switch ( should be closed when the ball is sitting on it) are the usual suspects.
Quoted from Jasenwm:One. Pic is. Of the ball trough twice my bad
That first photo showing the pins looks pretty bad. You need to address that before doing any more troubleshooting on HH. You can test your HH driver board and P/S in the other system 80 game. A successful test will eliminate that from the possible problem list. Let’s see a photo of your MPU. Any acid damage can be an issue.
Quoted from Jasenwm:I was thinking that about the ball trough. I closed it with my finger and it didn't change anything? The mpu is new no damage. I'm going to repin the connectors like you suggested and see what happens
The game needs to see this switch closed to start a game. It is a must fix.
Quoted from Jasenwm:So I adjusted the ball switch and repinned the main connectors and went and up graded to a ni wumpf new cpu. Now when I turn it on and attempt to start a game the ball is kicked out to the lane like normal but then the display reads a error message? It says BAD ONE on the display? I'm not sure what that means?
Switching to a aftermarket board actually compounds the problem for me. I am a OEM Gottlieb guy. Sorry, you're going to need to contact Ni-wumpf to find out what that error means. Report back what you find out and we'll start running down the next steps.
Quoted from Jasenwm:I emailed the company and asked what that messege ment. This is the reply I received from them.
''Normally that messege is indicating that the Slam switch has been detected on the game. It will come up at game start,because it was ignoring the switch until then. Let's start with looking at the Slam circuity for the game, on the front door, and the ball roll tilt.''
I emailed back telling him more about the issue but I'm confused why the Slam switch is still an issue because I bought this board because it states the board will disable and ignore the slam switch common issues?
Ok, that makes sense. Your door slam switch is open. It usually is the slam switch. I know you said you checked it but we need to revisit that. Get a couple alligator clips and solder them onto a wire. With power off put one clip on each of the terminals of the slam switch and turn the game back on. Does the error go away? If not, the next place to look is at the wire harness by the hinge of the coin door. It is likely you have a broken wire and that wire is one of the two going to your slam switch. Report back your findings. By the way, does the game play yet with he new board?
image (resized).jpgQuoted from Jasenwm:I emailed the company and asked what that messege ment. This is the reply I received from them.
''Normally that messege is indicating that the Slam switch has been detected on the game. It will come up at game start,because it was ignoring the switch until then. Let's start with looking at the Slam circuity for the game, on the front door, and the ball roll tilt.''
I emailed back telling him more about the issue but I'm confused why the Slam switch is still an issue because I bought this board because it states the board will disable and ignore the slam switch common issues?
The next thing we are going to look at is this cable. The pins are always shot on this and very obsolete. Is yours still the original with original pins?
20200604_074002 (resized).jpgQuoted from Jasenwm:With this new CPU it says in the discription one of the features is it ignores the slam switch error. If it is bypassing that wouldn't it take the slam switch out of play?
It does take it out of play but still detects it as being a problem. It looks like it needs repaired for the error to go away. Do you have a source for the pins that the double sided edge connectors take? They are different than the other edge connector on the game. I can make you one with all NOS parts but it isn’t going to be cheap I’m afraid. Your looking at $95 shipped. I only have few hundred pins left and each cable takes around 70 to make. Also, Do you know for a fact your driver board is good? Were you able to test it in your other game?
Quoted from radial_head:While I've heard good things about the NiWumph boards and I love the added features, it's a totally different system and a lot of those features are all dependent on the internal setting via the sub menus on the board (from what I remember).
Try doing this modification on your original board and pop it back in and see if it changes anything.
https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Slam_Switch_Modification
Bypassing the problem isn’t fixing it. This can be done after it gets sorted out. We need to find the problem first.
Quoted from Jasenwm:The game worked fine when I played at the sellers house, no I haven't tested the driver board. Yeah I'm in for the new harness let me know.
Ok, this is good news. We are getting closer. It is possible a board failed during the move but I think the mostly likely problem is the pins after the slam switch gets sorted. Did you remove the head for transport? If so, it is very likely the problem pin(s) is in one of the connectors removed to move the game.
Quoted from Jasenwm:So we're SO close!! I adjusted the slam switch so it stayed closed and before I did anything else I wanted to see if that did anything. I turned the game and it powers up, I press start it kicks the ball out like it was doing but this time everything actually works on the playfield. Bumpers kick the ball all the normal functions except no sound? I let the ball drain and start another game. I was able to start three games until I got the BAD ONE code again and the game went back to not doing anything.
Progress, I like it. First rule of System 80 - always check the slam switch. Sand the contacts on that slam switch with 1000 grit or higher to shine them up and then try to increase the tension so it is a hard closed switch. That should make your error go away. If you heard sound before the pins probably just need replaced. I believe that is the A1 J5 connector.
Quoted from TZ:So I'm still dealing with a sound issue on my HH, and I noticed there is no A3J6 connector attached to my driver board. Does this game not use this connector? It appears it is referenced in the schematic on page 26. (it is not shown in the picture several messages above)
Correct - not used on HH. Sound problems are usually pins or capacitors.
Quoted from QuietEarp:Hi Everybody! I recently got a Haunted House and I went through it and cleaned up some wiring and though I broke it a few times but of course it was always connector issues.
Anyway I just started playing it and a few switches need cleaning etc. but I am noticing the game is practically flat.
Question about the playfield angle. I have the front levelers all the way in and the back 3" all the way up and I put the backs on some 2 x4s and it is still not steep enough. All my legs are the same length. I don't know what the heck is going on. Am I missing something?
What do you guys have the angle set at? I am still less than 6 degrees even with all this lift in the back.
I am going to jack it up some more but this is getting ridiculous.
The game should have 27 1/2" legs on the front and 31" in the rear. They don't make the Gottlieb 27 1/2" ones anymore so you'll have to go with the 27" ones. Get the correct set from Steve at the Pinball Resource.
Quoted from radial_head:Is the window on this game supposed to be green or clear? Mine is clear and looks like someone DIY'd a replacement at one point. Marco has new windows in stock so thinking of picking one up...
Haunted House is Green and Black Hole is blue.
Quoted from radial_head:Alright so I've run into a bit of a problem with my Haunted House. The lower left pop bumper does not work. Blows a fuse immediately upon engaging as does the diode. Here's what I've found out so far and I'm hoping one of you know what's going on.
All of the PBDB are modified and working properly. When swap the boards, the lower left is still the issue.
The pop bumper works fine once, but MAYBE twice if I'm lucky.
The fuse is the proper 2.5A Slow Blow (and still busts when a 3A is put in).
The diode tests open in both directions after one firing.
The coil is a 4893, NOT the 1496 as prescribed in the manual.
The 38V+ wire seems to be in tact and gets good continuity from bridge rectifier to coil.
I've read plenty of people trying to change their pop bumper coils to 4893 to give them "more pop" which is ridiculous, but seems common enough. Would that be the supposed issue at hand or should I do some more digging into the wiring harness to see if something isn't rubbing right?
At this point I would just swap coils with a known good one. It might just be a bad coil. If the problem persists you have at least narrowed your search. My next guess would be the bridge rectifier.
Quoted from Sputnik:I joined the Haunted House club yesterday. A rainy weekend is on the way, so plenty of time to go thru it and see what is needed. I need to do coil sleeves and clean the solenoid plungers. Of course a good wax job.
I have not worked on a Haunted House since 1984, by the VUK to the upper playfield what should prevent the ball from passing between the wire guide and rubber? Twice yesterday the ball went there and fell into the belly. I have placed a small zip tie between the post and wire guide as a temp fix.
Thanks for any advise. Sputnik.
[quoted image]
Sounds like something is missing. Can you provide a photo of the problem area? I have lots of extra parts and might be able to help you out.
Quoted from radial_head:I've got a new coil on order from Steve, so hopefully that will fix it. The wrapping is all shrunk onto the coil so I'm hoping that solves it.
If it were the bridge rectifier, In theory, it would also be doing the same thing to the the other solenoids running on +38VDC though, no?
Another thing I'm curious about. In order to get my lower playfield raised up, I have to pull the main playfield up with one hand, flip the service bar past its slot and over toward the front of the game, pull the main playfield into its upright service position, THEN I can raise the lower playfield. Is that how the rest of yours is? Seems like it would be fixed easily if the prop bar was just 1/2" higher, but I'm always weary of drilling new holes.
That sounds about right but I never raise the lower playfield. I just disconnect the 3 Molex plugs and fully remove it.
As for the bridge rectifier question I would have to check the schematics. I thought there was a dedicated one for the lower Playfield but maybe not.
Quoted from Sputnik:This the gap that eats the ball.[quoted image]
You have the wrong rubber ring on those post. There should be a long one that bridges the gap as seen in this photo.
651F323D-13FF-406A-ADC4-1BCEB550B115 (resized).jpegQuoted from radial_head:mad_dog_coin_op coming through with the high res photo! I was having a hard time telling what I was looking at with the other photo.
Sorry if my wondering was confusing. The pop bumper in question is the pop bumper to the left of the main playfield flippers. That seems to share a DC source with the other main playfield pop bumper. So I doubt it's that.
I guess there's nothing I hate more than ordering a new part to only have it not end up not solving the issue.
I am not sure why I thought you were taking about the lower playfield. It might be because I'm usually multitasking when I'm on Pinside (or drinking). It is likely the coil if the pop bumper board checks out. It also might be a pitched wire. Gottlieb really did some interesting things on these system 80s. To be honest, if you can fix a System 80 all other pins are easy.
20171006_174438 (resized).jpgQuoted from radial_head:Allow me to join you.
Picked this rugged stuff up when I was in the Czech Republic last year. They're big on absinth over there....[quoted image][quoted image]
Nice - I run around Europe a lot on vacation. The Czech Republic is where I first had the real stuff. To be honest thier high end stuff is some of the best absinthe around. I also got some killer bottles in Rome. I always pick up a bottle when I travel becuse the Absinthe you can get in the US is just not the same. By the way, the bottle on my machine sucks by comparison.
Quoted from radial_head:Finally got my Haunted House put back together. epeabs was kind enough to help me with some cleaning and polishing and refinishing of some topside metal parts. When everything came back together, a few things happened.
1.) the displays are all wonky. Player 2 is consistently on, all segments, all the time. Players 3, 4, and the bonus display strobe gently with care and artistry
2.) The lower pop bumper works (was dead before) but now the lower main PF pop and the upper PF pop rapidfires when held down. Obviously this doesn’t affect gameplay as a ball doesn’t hold the pop down, but it shouldn’t be that way.
3.) The lightning effect does nothing.
My hyposthesis. Help me out and let me know if my thinking is correct.
1a.) Two suspects. A1J6 has been replaced and whoever did it did a shitty job. I’ve been waiting to find a NOS edge connector to replace it, but to no avail. When I would disconnect and reconnect that cable, it would make a difference (working to not working) but now it does nothing. From my understanding, that was just the switch matrix send/return, but maybe it has a larger effect?
Should I be replacing the 7448 chips on the upper right or should I be looking at the driver board? I am lucky enough to have a Swemmer MPU so switching the chips would be easy. When I got the game the driver board was acting up. I replaced it with one I “thought” was working. Possibly not though.
2.) No clue on this. Switching pop bumper boards does nothing. Not really sure on this one.
3.) I’m wondering if, since the lightning board is giving me issues and the displays are wonky, it has to do with the quad of 7448 chips on the upper right corner since theyre all on the same wire stack running from the CPU to the Displays and the Lightning Board, but I’m a lost on where to start.
[quoted image]
Most of your problems sound like minor switch adjustments and worn out pins. The stobe issue might be your filter capacitor in the main cabinet. Do you still have the originals installed?
Quoted from Jasenwm:Buy my haunted house or fix it. It has no sound. I'll pay you handsomely
Send it to the Coin Op Cauldron. Sound cards can be kind of tricky. Clive knows what he is doing.
Quoted from Jasenwm:I'm not sure. At this point I honestly love this machine but it been one thing after another, it is a system 80 so reliability is not its stong point. I'm looking to sell
System 80s are fine after you work though the 30 years of neglect. Is the sound card your only problem at the moment? I know you have already put in a lot of time on this game. Get it professionally fixed and you should be good to go. My System 80s are rock solid after being sorted out.
Quoted from radial_head:Displays make no change. Must be the MPU. Bummer.
Replaced the 7448s and no change. Not sure if I can replace the 7404s with whatever other 7404 exists (74LS04 or SN74LS04N or whatever else exists). Game plays fine else-wise which I feel like is the lucky part.
The filter cap was changed when I got it but was one with an absurdly high value. Changed it to a 10,000uf 50V cap so that should be working well enough (advice given directly from Clay’s videos)
If you aren’t skilled enough in boardwork to socket all these chips yourself (like me), do yourself a favor a buy a Swemmer board. He does incredible work.
Before you go down the rabbit hole - how are your edge connector pins? I would replace everything that looks iffy before looking anywhere else. PM me if you need the funky Bifurcated ones. I have a secret stash. Also rebuild that P/S. It is easy to do and very reliable after the fact.
Quoted from tdiddy:For the ppl that have used the mirco HH playfield set, what's everyones opinion on it, I'm thinking about scooping up a set, my HH is cleared already from the previous owner but it wasnt sanded and polished so it's kinda bugging me
I’m interested in this also. My playfield is pretty good but I wouldn’t mind swapping it out for a new one if I knew the quality was there.
Quoted from Zablon:Before I start tearing into this can anyone confirm for me.
Mine has started to intermittently not play sounds (targets etc), or even keeps playing the same sound like a target is stuck.
The targets themselves do register.
I assume there are 2 levels of the switch, one for target, one for sound?
Is this correct that I need to adjust the switch leafs...or do I need to be looking somewhere else?
Most likely a pin problem. Very common on Sys 80. The pins going to the MPU for sound are not making good contact.
Most LEDs are slightly smaller than standard bulbs. Power down the game, remove the LED and squeeze the socket with a pair of needle nose pliers. Just a little, don't over do it. The idea is to make it snug on the base of the LED.
Quoted from MT45:Congrats, and good luck! I'm in same boat and have the topside torn down now
New playfields, new plastics, new rails new pops, lots of new parts
Question ... how do you remove these nails? Best I can come up with is "carefully"
I have new black rails that I ordered from Pinball Life so if I damage these it's not the end of the world
I also ordered new 18 ga 3/8 nickle colored escutcheon pins from Ebay
ebay.com link: itm
[quoted image][quoted image]
They come out pretty easy. Slip a slim metal putty knife between the ball guide and wood rail. Wiggle it a little and the nails should work free.
Quoted from GeekedOnPinball:Hey all.. anyone have the counts for the faceted posts in this game? Seems as if there are two lengths and I think it would look great to replace them all when I do the rubbers.
Look at Steve's website at the below link. It will tell you the number and sizes of each.
Quoted from DuffysArcade:For everyone talking about the plastics on HH being unavailable...PinballCenter here in Germany has the entire set and sell pieces individually. I can attest to the quality, I replaced all of my plastics when I rebuilt my HH a year ago and the plastic set is fantastic.
https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts/playfield-parts/plastics/?p=1
These guys don’t ship to the US and most of the items are low quality. I’m not sure where the HH plastics they do have came from but they are out of reach for folks in the states.
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:I really want to do a playfield swap
My playfields are not bad
My wife loves it general wear as is and my brother says “you’ll be upside down on the game” lol
I don’t care about being upside down
I only paid 2k for the game and it’s all complete
Is swapping a new playfield out of a already decent HH devalue the game?
Not at all but a HH playfield swap is no small task. Ever done a swap before? I would not recomend this as a first time swap.
Quoted from radial_head:There are no fuses in the backbox. All fuses are on the fuse panels or the playfields IIRC.
Either way, the lock on HH is on the upper left part of the head. It might be missing. Then you're in for a fun time.
Read your manual. It's online
The manual is on-line? Steve isn’t going to like that.
Has the power supply been rebuilt? They are pretty solid after a rebuild but the original parts will often fail. Make sure you check all the fuses. That game has them mounted on the underside of the playfield also. System 80s are a very different breed of pin. After you verify you have all of your power outputs, the problem is usually bad pins in the connectors or an open slam switch (the one on the door).
Quoted from PinballOrphanage:looking to find a plastic for Haunted House on the right side of the vuk shown here. Mine is missing, so anything is better than nothing. Thank you
Steve[quoted image]
These guys have them.
https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/catalogsearch/result/?q=haunted+house
FYI - I recently had a talk with Steve at PBR. He has no plans to make these again. That being said, get them where you can find them at.
Quoted from pinballplusMN:Thanks! They (ebay) just have the display plastics. Looking for the window plastic for the lower playing field
I would get it from here:
https://www.starship-fantasy.com/plastics/HAUNTED-HOUSE-Playfield-Window-Kit
Years ago, CPR did one and it didn't fit so good. I would be fearful of getting a CPR one from any of the resellers since they are such a major player. If Starship - Fantasy says "it will fit"- it will fit.
Quoted from damadczar:What color was the original trim? Was it more gold colored or a chrome like color?
I ordered some samples and I forgot to get the gold. Looks like my original was possibly a bit golden. I did order brushed and chromed steel. I kinda dig the chrome.
Thinking about ordering several feet and cutting up top/side sets for sale since nobody really sells the metal chrome for gottlieb games right now that I can find.
Thoughts?
Also, the trim thickness should be 1/8”.
[quoted image][quoted image]
OEM was gold but the chrome or black both look fine in my opinion. 1/8" is correct.
Quoted from WeirPinball:Was a repro set of plastics ever run for this game? Doing a resto and looking for a set.
PBR (Steve) owns the license. He did a run a long time ago but that has all been consumed. I've been bugging him for years to do another run. He is very old school and currently not open to have them digitly printed. He only wants silkscreened plastics and the cost is too high to justify another run. At the moment, we are all stuck.
Quoted from lilmul123:Hey all, six-year owner of a Haunted House.
Compared to the rest of the games in my collection, the bottom half of the Haunted House playfield is just *so dark*.
Has anyone done any mods to brighten it up? I can see why some people would prefer it be dark, but I'd like to be able to see the playfield when the lights are turned off, haha.
The bottom playfield is illuminated with 313 bulbs, which are rated for 28v. Buy some LED replacements in the appropriate color, and I think you'll be happy. Comet Pinball has them $1.59. I also use Comet 2SMD sunlight or warm for my general illumination.
Quoted from radial_head:Hi all, I'm looking for a new B-19548 transformer. No longer getting the 8vdc offset output from mine.
Those seldom die but it does happen one in a great while. I doubt PBR has it any more. This ebay item looks interesting.
Quoted from DanMarino:They look great together, which one is more fun? I've played them both and enjoy them.
I have them both, too. I would say Haunted House is more fun and Black Hole is more challenging. Personally, I think fun trumps challenging. Regardless, they are both great games.
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