Aurora, IL
One of the best themed/graphic pins ever. The whole package is sexy. Would love to own one some day.
(Topic ID: 143518)
Linked Games
Haunted House
Gottlieb, 1982
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2 weeks later
1 week later
Quoted from Evilive69:I am an official member of the Haunted House club. Picked up my first pin today, a fantastic looking and playing Haunted House.
Lets see pics.
1 week later
2 weeks later
Looks like the snow is melting enough ONE DAY before it ices and snows all over again, so I am going to try and move my HH in tonight.
Any leads on glass? Mine is scratched, Id really like a nice new piece. Any one know of a spot in Chicagoland? PBL only seems to have Williams widebody glass.
Got her in. She was dropping the background music during games after I set it up, but after resenting all the connectors it seems to be fixed. A few other tweaks need to be done, but shes up and running. My displays seem to be dim. Player 1 is fine, but 2, 3 and 4 are a bit flickery and the 4th player one looks dim. Always something!
Thought some more about the glass. I may consider some invisiglass, the glare from the words "HAUNTED HOUSE" from the backglass really reflect badly and make the center area hard to see in my dark gameroom. There arent any GI lights under the secret passage plastic right? I dont see any, but I havent lifted the playfield yet to check. Maybe I have a row out? Just seems REALLY dark, even my wife said something.
I agree, the blades need to match the art on the playfield closer in terms of color and content. The haunted house outside image is redundant.
Also, how come no one has made two ghost posts for the two posts near the skill shots? I imagine a ghost shaped post that looks like the ghosts on the playfield. The post would screw down like normal, and then the too would snap on to make it the ghost head on top. That way you could snap the head off to unscrew the post. Catch my drift?
Ok, so now I need help. As I said, the music was cutting out during games when I first got it. Re-sat all the board connectors, everything has been good since.
Today, I was watching some videos to see if any one lit the secret passage plastic ever and I noticed that my attract mode isnt working. Right now, the lightning flashes and it flashes game over, but the lights on the playfield do not chase or cycle.
I then noticed pne of the digits is out on my player 4 display, the second digit to be exact. It came back on after i had the machine on for a minute.
Any ideas on the attract mode issue first and foremost? I know the lights work because they do when a game is played.
Thanks!
As I read it, the dip switch block thatbis farthest to the right is for game adjustments. Switch 3 and 4 need to be on, and they are. So unless I am reading the manual wrong that can be checked off. Wanted to mention that.
OK...so by the lack of replies yall knew I was reading the manual wrong, lol. Attract mode in full effect!
Still need to remedy the display, will probably do a swap with one of the ones thats working fine.
As for lighting the center area/the secret passage plastic, I am thinking about the matrix system by comet pinball. Im not sure if I want to light the posts or do some led strips.
Quoted from Patofnaud:Chi do some digging around, there are a few Youtube vids and Pinside threads over the years on how to rejuvenate old Gottlieb displays with a 9v battery. You may want to try that.
Thanks! Ya, I am aware you can "recharge" them. I am going to swap displays first to make sure its not something else and then I will go this route.
Quoted from Patofnaud:It is usually the display when 1 is good and others are dim. If all were dim then yeah, you may have low HV.
Another thing if you are going to keep this one for a long long time is that Pinscore or some other LED vendor (maybe XPIN?) make a really nice LED alternative in green for System 80's.
Looks like boston pinball company is the one that has them.
http://www.bostonpinballcompany.com/displays.htm
$300, not bad. I will consider it, thanks!
1 week later
Quoted from konghusker:I've considered lights under the secret passage. I think TNT has a video where they did it. It does look like it should be lit.
Like I said, that matrix system looks to be the best idea. No permanent modification. Ill probably use a GI bulb close, and then use a led pad or something branched off of it. Thoughts?
Quoted from Patofnaud:I agree Chi. That Comet solution would work fine. You could use an insert lamp instead of a GI so that it only comes on when a certain event happens.
Maybe off the arrow insert in front of the secret passage target? I dunno, I kinda want it lit all the time, that area is so dark and it drives me nuts.
OK, after looking at the matrix stuff, I have a $22 order ready to roll.
Tap off a GI bulb to light the secret passage plastic area with a 10 led strip.
Tap off the secret passage insert and light both the posts on each side of the secret passage off that insert. So when the insert is lit, the posts glow orange as well. (throwing the idea of purple around too. I have purple pop bumpers and the "ghost" posts near the skill shot)
I have some other projects to get done before I spend more money, but this is what I am thinking about doing.
1 week later
3 weeks later
Quoted from davebart5:Can someone please help confirm something for me...
Does your HH backglass have (3) pieces of the plastic trim (left, right, top)? My game is pretty much all original and intact, but I only have two pieces that sit on the left/right side of my backglass. If there is supposed to be three, then one of them must have been lost somewhere along my game's lifetime.
FYI - I'm not including the actual metal lift trim that the backglass sits in when counting the number of trim to have.
Thanks!
I think mine had 2, but I had an extra piece laying around.
1 week later
I havent gotten to it yet. Enjoying playing it for a while before I dig in. Ive got a pile of other projects taking priority.
Blacklight WOULD be cool, maybe shooting up like its coming FROM the trap door.
2 weeks later
1 week later
1 week later
Quoted from shacklersrevenge:P.S
has anyone thought to experiment with glow in the dark titan rubber for the basement? I will be trying this soon for the Black Hole lower playfield
Ooooooo, good idea. I wonder what it would look like with blacklight leds too....woah!
Quoted from shacklersrevenge:One really cool thing I found that it adds ( i have one in a BH) is it flashes between million and your score, should you happen to roll it..
I feel like his board is a must just because of this. Would cost just as much and cause more harm to your pin to change to 7 digit dont you think?
Definitely in my future once I roll.
Does it add a skill shot to HH? Sweet. I have pascals board in my super orbit and it adds a ball save, high scores initials, and lighting flash option for the pop bumper strikes. Plus the reliability. Its been solid. Just a few blown display fuses now and then. I think my displays need work, lol, as with both my system 80's.
1 month later
Might have asked this before, but has any one installed new LED displays in their HH from this guy yet? Looks pretty nice...my player 4 display is still acting up, I may just replace them eventually with these. Thoughts?
1 month later
No, too afraid to hack up my playfield for the trough. Looks like a lot of work. MAYBE if I ever get mine professionally restored. Maybe.
3 months later
I think Im going to pull the trigger on a small matrix led order. Can any one chime in with whether they think I should go with a strip of LEDs or a couple blocks of LEDs to light the secret passage plastic? I want it to light as much as possible without having a terrible hot spot. Does any one have a pic of what it looks like under that plastic? Sorry, Im not around my machine at the moment. Thanks!
I really want to use the matrix system so its easy install/remove. Im planning on tapping off the secret passage arrow to the two posts on each side of the false target. When the arrow is lit, the posts will light. I think those will be purple as my pops are all purple and I think it will tie together nicely. As for the secret passage plastic, thanks for the input. Im planning on putting an order together this weekend some time. Install around the week of thanks giving. Any more input is welcome.
1 month later
Thats awesome!
Hey, any one have a good fix for the VUK from the basement? I had a party this weekend and it was having a hell of a time getting back up. Took about 7 trys some times.
Quoted from bbriese:I did the VUK pop bumper driver board about 5 years ago and it's the only way to go! Fought a weak up kick forever until I bit the bullet and did it.
So you just replaced the board? I have a spare one laying around....hmmmm
1 week later
Quoted from bbriese:The main reason the VUK gets weak is the tungsten contacts get pitted which causes resistance and power loss to the coil....similar to what is typical with flipper EOS switches. I followed Clay's guide for this VUK upgrade and there are several other parts needed such as molex connectors, wire etc. Let me know if you can't find that procedure and I'll get it to you.
I am interested in the write up if you can find it. I havent had luck.
On another note, I just got the secret passage protector to go with my new plastic, and comet matrix stuff to light it as well. Fingers crossed I get some time to get this done and get the VUK fixed as well. My JP has a pile of stuff to be done as well....
2 weeks later
Quoted from 27dnast:So who has installed the Pascal boards on this game to get multiball? I'm really curious how that's integrated into the game...
I'm assuming you can play the original single ball version of the game with that board installed?
Not sure but I know you have to hack up your playfield to install a bigger trough for the extra balls.
4 months later
Quoted from pacman11:I am looking for the plastic piece in the middle that's says secret passage. Anyone know where I can get one mine was missing when I got it..
Ill have a chipped one once I replace mine. Its chipped around the left post. not too bad.
Im having issues with my bottom left display. Its been fading slowly since I bought it and it was almost completely off this weekend for a party.
ALSO, my game doesnt know where the ball is some times. Especially when I shoot down the trap door. It goes into the bottom playfield, but it doesnt activate the flippers or the lights. I saw some one playing this weekend and it was locked in lower playfield mode, so when the ball popped back up to main, it still thought it was in the lower.
NOT GOOD. Was hoping this beast would stay solid.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Antennaejim:I've been having the same issue between the lower and middle playfield. Have you figured out the culprit? I'm still dealing with the nightmare!
No, not at all. Havent had time to even turn my machines on in over a month. 
Where can I get the spider web drop targets? I destroyed one last night in the basement. Pinball resource doesnt seem to have them as far as I can tell....
3 months later
Some one recently posted that this is the worst wide body ever made. GOOD LORD what is wrong with people? This was my grail since I was 5 years old. I ALWAYS wanted one. Who can hate this machine?
Quoted from bkbirge:Quiet you, I'd still like to find one that costs less than a car.
I paid $1600 for mine...just gotta find the deals...or cheaper cars?
2 months later
Quoted from SUPERBEE:I find its always better to remove protective films from stuff like this if its going to sit for an extended period of time. Seems to happen with a lot of plastics.
Good to know. Ill see if my secret passage has plastic on it.
4 months later
4 months later
Quoted from northvibe:Just in case anyone needs a new board
Pascal all-in-one board FS
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/69132
Why are you selling?
9 months later
Quoted from sheahan2:Made this just for you. I also have the PSB and AI file if you prefer. Took me about 30 seconds to create and 22 minutes to upload. Enjoy.
[quoted image]
This project is semi complete. Sorry for no update but no one seemed to care in this club.
1 month later
1 month later
Quoted from fatality83:Hoping to have a Haunted House in 2020 some time. The theme just fits in with my game room and I love the sounds and music and everything about it. Can someone give me a price range what these beautiful beasts go for?
What do you want? Restored or players or some where in between? I would say the RANGE is roughly $4000 to $1500.
Im going to try and stream my newely uber-cleaned up HH on halloween night. We will see how that goes...stay tuned.
1 week later
Quoted from V_piscopo:Nice. Those are always broke. Miss my HH.
Always use protection.
image (resized).jpg 1 week later
Quoted from radial_head:I honestly hadn't noticed the organist on this plastic until I visited this thread. I feel like there's more stuff to see every time I look at this machine. This is absolutely the coolest machine ever made.
Ya, its a piece of art for sure. Love to have it on and just stare at it some times.
I have a question for everyone: Attract lights/mode on or off? When I got it he had them off. I have had them on ever since. The clicking and flashing is fun, but some times I wonder if Id like it to stay static. Thoughts?
Quoted from Zablon:I guess I can. Not usually my go to since there's a minimum.
Is there? Not for me...
Quoted from psd4me:That's because your special
No there isn't.
Nice profile pic... 
2 months later
Pretty nuts that the value of hh has gone up 2x in the last 5 years Ive owned mine.
Not going any where, so the point is irrelevant.
Quoted from ralphwiggum:Damn, has it been five years already? Glad to see it went to a good home.
Lemme look...
October of 2015 sound right? Time flies man! Its the damn kids...
2 weeks later
Quoted from Nihonmasa:Having one last question:
Ball popper sending the ball back from the cellar to the main playfield is suceeding with a 50% rate.
Any trick to improve that? Already changed the sleeve.
Mine was re-aligned and it still did this. Ended up needing the pop bumper board mod done. Now it fires strong EVERY time!
WEAK VUK FIX - Copied from the world wide web
The vertical up kicker (V.U.K.) used on Haunted House that kicks the ball from the lower playfield back to the main playfield tends to be weak and unreliable. To correct this problem, it is advisable to install a (modified) pop bumper driver board to give good reliable action. A weak upkicker can be a major problem with Haunted House, and much less of a problem with Black Hole. On Black Hole, if the playfield mounted 2N5879 transistors were modified with the 4.7k pull up resistors (as described above), this modification is not needed. But I would highly recommend this modification for a Haunted House!
The correct coil for the Upkicker on Black Hole and Haunted House is coil number A-4893 (535 turns of 22 gauge wire). This is mis-printed in some manuals.
There are several reasons the up kicker gets weak on Haunted House. One reason is because the normally open tungsten switch will pit with use. This pitting will cause resistance, and make the up kicker coil it connects thru weaker. Also if this switch is mis-adjusted, the coil can easily lock on and burn. I've seen this switch get RED hot while trying to kick the ball to the upper playfield unsuccessfully.
Another problem is that the four ounce steel pinball lands right on top of the up kicker's coil sleeve before it is launched vertically to the main playfield. This can cause the coil sleeve to break and/or mushroom. This causes the coil plunger to have resistance, and not operate at full strength.
Installing a Pop Bumper Driver board to replace the relay driven switch (and the coil relay that drives it) will solve the first problem mentioned. The CPU board will send a pulse to the Pop Bumper Driver board, which in turns connects the solenoid to ground for the proper amount of time. Coil burns are avoided because if the ball sensing switch gets stuck, the Pop Bumper Driver board only sends one pulse to the up kicker coil.
The next two points apply to the Haunted House upkicker, regardless if the upkicker modification is done or not.
Check where the upkicker plunger hits the ball when it's resting in the upkicker lower playfield hole. To do this, turn the game off. Put the ball in the lower playfield's upkicker hole. Manually move the upkicker plunger up, and notice where it hits the ball. It should hit it dead center. If not, adjust the upkicker mounting bracket from under the playfield till it hits the center of the ball. If the plunger hits the ball off-center, the ball will bounce off the sides of the clear plastic upkicker tube, and may not make the main playfield reliably.
Always replace the upkicker coil sleeve with a new, double flanged nylon coil sleeve. The top edge of this coil sleeve can get easily damaged from the pinball hitting it. This can cause resistance for the coil plunger.
Adjust the clear plastic upkicker ball tube. This tube must be perfectly over the upkicker ball hole in the lower playfield. If it's off-center, the ball will bounce off the sides of the tube on the way up, and may not make the main playfield reliably. Also sometimes when lowering the main playfield the tube gets mis-aligned and bends out of position. Keep an eye on this tube as lowering the main playfield! Notice the metal bracket on the lower playfield behind the upkicker ball hole. It has a half circle cut-out, and elongated screw holes for adjustment. The clear plastic upkicker ball tube should rest against this bracket in the half circle cut-out. This is done with a spring that is connected to the clear plastic upkicker ball tube.
The bracket is adjustable; if the ball is not making it to the main playfield reliably, try moving this bracket a bit. This will change the centering of the clear plastic upkicker ball tube. Also make sure the clear plastic upkicker ball tube's spring is in place with decent tension.
If one has done the above three points, and the upkicker is still not working reliably, do the following upkicker modification. This modification for Haunted House will connect the ball kicker solenoid ground lead (non-banded solenoid diode lead) to pin 1 of the pop bumper driver board. Pin 4 is connected to the normally open relay switch of the ball kicker relay coil. Pin 2 is connected to the solenoid ground. Pin 5 is connected to +5, pin 6 is connected to logic ground.
Haunted House Upgrade Parts Needed:
(1) Pop Bumper Driver Board. If an original Gottlieb board is not available, buy a new "Tom Callahan" from Pinball Resource or Pinball Lizard's upgraded pop bumper driver board from www.pbliz.com (http://www.pbliz.com/id26.htm). Both have the same pinout, and are plug and play.
(1) 6 pin female .156" Molex connector housing (for the above).
(5) Connector pins for above, Molex part number 08-52-0072 (same pins used for single sided connectors, described earlier).
(1) 4.7mfd 10v electrolytic capacitor.
(1) Male round .093" molex pin, Molex part number 02-09-2118 (optional, but recommended).
(1) Female round .093" molex pin, Molex part number 02-09-1119 (optional, but recommended).
(1) Radio Shacks' .093" pin extractor tool, part number 274-223 (optional, but good to have).
(1) Double flanged coil sleeve.
(1) A-4893 Gottlieb coil (if needed).
Procedure:
Install the Gottlieb A-4893 coil with a new double flanged coil sleeve. In a pinch, use a Williams 22-550 coil, but it won't fit real well in the existing Gottlieb coil frame. Make sure there is a diode on the coil leads with the band side of the diode going to the power lead.
If not already done, modify your Gottlieb Pop Bumper Driver board as explained previously in the section titled Pop Bumper Driver Board Fix (file:///C:/Users/Jeff/Documents/pinrepair/PinballHQ.com/sys80/index2.htm#popbump) (this reverses the polarity of capacitor C3, replaces diode CR1 with a jumper wire, and replaces capacitor C4, among other things). This modification is not required if you are installing a new "Tom Callahan" or Pinball Lizard pop bumper driver board.
On the solder side of the Pop Bumper Driver board, install the 4.7mfd 10v capacitor. Solder the minus (-) leg of the cap to pin 4 of the molex connector pin (the "input" line). Solder the positive (+) leg of the cap to pin 5 (the +5 volt line). This is a very important step! Without this filter cap, the input line running from the CPU to this new Pop Bumper Driver board can pick up noise. Every time the flippers are pressed, the upkicker can fire without this cap. Here are the pin numbers in reference to the "key" pin (the missing pin that would normally be pin 3): 6 5 4 key 2 1. This capacitor is not required if installing a new "Tom Callahan" or Pinball Lizard pop bumper driver board.
The Added 4.7mfd electrolytic capacitor on the Pop Bumper Driver Board.
Install the new Pop Bumper Driver board underneath the lower playfield. Mount it next to the relay coil that drives the upkicker coil.
On the lower playfield, remove the white-orange-blue wire from the switch on the upkicker relay coil. Remove the remaining wire connected to the other lead of this switch (and that connects to the fuse for the upkicker coil). Connect these two wires together. The switch should now have no wires connected to it. This provides power to the coil.
Note the orientation of the 6 pin molex plug on the Pop Bumper Driver board. Here are the pin numbers in reference to the "key" pin (the missing pin that would normally be pin 3): 6 5 4 key 2 1. Note pin 6 is closest to the capacitor just above the power transistor.
Remove the white-black-brown wire from the lower playfield relay coil (non-banded diode side).
Connect this wire to pin 4 of the Pop Bumper Driver board. This is the "trigger" wire for the PBDB. Before this modification, the driver board completed this wire to ground to energize the relay (which in turn energized the upkicker). Now the driver board will ground this wire, triggering the PBDB. Often this wire will need to be lengthened, depending on where the PBDB was mounted. Note the relay coil will now have only one lead with wires going to it.
Remove the two green ground wires connected to the lower playfield upkicker coil (non-banded diode side). These two wires must stay connected together. Splice two more 6 inch wires into these ground wires. Now the original two ground wires which are connected together, are connected to the two new wires. Connect these two new wires to pins 2 and 6 (ground) of the Pop Bumper Driver board.
Connect pin 1 of the Pop Bumper Driver board to the non-banded diode side of the upkicker coil. Note the two green wires were removed from this terminal in the previous step. This completes the path to ground for the coil, when the PBDB is triggered.
Connect pin 5 of the Pop Bumper Driver board to +5 vdc. To do this, route a wire along the wiring harness and to the bottom of the main playfield. Splice into pin 5 of an existing Pop Bumper Driver board located there. Optionally, to do this step cleanly, use the empty pin on plugs A9-P2/J2. Install male (#02-09-1118) and female (#02-09-1119) round .093" molex pins into the empty holes in plugs A9-P2 and A9-J2. This way the lower playfield can be easily unplugged and removed.
Summary of the Pop Bumper Driver board Pinout.
Pin 1: Switched Ground (goes to device being driven by the PBDB, to complete the device's circuit to ground)
Pin 2: Ground
Pin 3: KEY (not used)
Pin 4: Switch input (this pin gets grounded to turn the PBDB on)
Pin 5: +5 volts
Pin 6: Ground
Quoted from psd4me:Well I have to have one now. Shows out of stock though.
Id like him to match the window on the plastic if possible. I see he had a few options. When were these ever available?? Never seen them before...
2 weeks later
4 weeks later
8 months later
Quoted from Trident:What is the best most reliable board set for a haunted house? I’m replacing the original mpu and not sure which I should go with. Also who makes the best repro backglasses?
Quoted from radial_head:Get Fred Swemmer’s Board if you need just the MPU. Avoid the Rottendog board unless you have multiple Sys80s. If you need the PSU and MPU get the Pascal.
Another vote to Pascal. Never had issues with his boards. Swemmer I have multiple dead boards stacked up that need testing. Rottendog is a mixed bag.
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