Hello, You sound like you were having the same issue I recently started having. Everything was working fine, then all the sudden most of the solenoids don't work. The bank resets, free game knocker, coin door coil, ball kicker (starting of game) and a few others do, but flippers/upkickers/some drop targets (mostly the bottom field) no longer work.

I've read through this but not seeing what you found to resolve it?

Thanks!

Thanks, well that scares me

Seems 3 of my machines all decided to have issues about the same time and I've never had to really do much electrical work on them in the past. Talk about a crash course.

Seems that for my issue, just reseating the CPU/Driver connection resolved the issue for the moment! Guess I need to take a look at the connectors. At least it was nothing serious.

Hah. As I was researching this I found that mine has never had the ground updates, and it still has the old orange caps so I have a bit of work to do. I'm also going to put an NVRAM in it while I'm at it (it still has that black box battery that appears to be working, but no leakage).

I have a couple minor issues that I need to look into though. The #2 bat kicker goes into rapid fire mode (even though the leaf switch isn't touching) and gets stuck on. And the gate spring/leaf switch for the trap door activator seems to need some adjustment as it doesn't always activate, and I think I made it worse when I tried to adjust it.

Otherwise, this machine is in great condition and I've had it for well over 15 years.

Disregard what was here. I took another look because the outputs were pretty confusing considering it was working. Apparently the place I was doing my DMM ground lead wasn't a good spot. When I changed to the actual grounding area the voltages were right on, 5v was a bit high so i dialed it in. I realized I had a cap I could put in as a test to replace the big orange one but I don't see any difference in how it acts. When you first turn it on and start a game there is like a 20-30 second delay before 'most' of the solenoids will fire. The ball kickout fires, the main playfield kickout at the top of the playfield (in between the drop hole and the upkicker) fires, but nothing else will. Then after some time, there is this little click under the playfield (toward the back) and then everything works. It sounds similar to the click to switch to the lower playfield and back (like maybe a relay?). If I turn the machine off and back on again you can hear it click almost immediately after starting a game.

I had already taken out all the boards and cleaned the contacts except the MPU and PS. The connections on everything actually look really good though.

EDIT UPDATE: The delay issue seems to be the same relay/switch(?) that flips between main/bottom playfields in attract mode. I'm assuming every has that loud 'click' when it switches back and forth? This is the sound I'm hearing when the game finally kicks in at the same spot under the playfield, but I can't figure out where it is. In the manual I don't see anything there. Is that sound just coils charging? It's like when you hit start, the game doesn't realize it should be activating the playfield, and then it just eventually does. Is there any kind of switch that the ball should be hitting when you launch it?

I have one that drops in a manner that it immediately goes left and drains. One thing that helps prevent it is to trigger the flipper prior to it landing. I can't see a way to adjust the ramps as they seem to be welded in place. Do all of them hit in bad spots or just one? You could attempt to move the entire contraption.

Does anyone have a good method for leveling the window? I got new rubbers, but the window doesn't stay flat, it will be level at the screws, then high or low in between. It seems like there should be padding along the entire outside, or some sort of rubber grommet flap thing on top of the window/playfield seam. I would have thought after all these years someone has come up with some sort of mod or improvement for how this works.

Yes.. Original window.. Not warped.. I replaced the foam pads with one's from PBR and its still an issue.. It's not really bad.. But it is certainly not level all the way around..

It's not noticeably visible.. But it does affect the ball at times.. More concerned about the wood/paint edges

The HH manual doesn't show a normal matrix in block format like others. It basically lists each part on the PF and what switch it is for, and then the schematics. What particular issues are you having and I can see if I can consolidate some of it.

If anyone needs a new PF window there's someone selling repros on ebay.

ebay.com link: itm

Really? Is it the same as this?

http://www.starship-fantasy.com/plastics/HAUNTED-HOUSE-Playfield-Window-Kit

They are in stock now (they were out).

The guys feedback is all good.

Congrats. Also, check if the big capacitors in the bottom are orange and/or light blue. If so they should be changed out.

770,000 to 000,000 is normal until you get higher than 770,000. When you say 'nothing else' do you mean if you have credits and hit start nothing happens?

If you have a coil burnt/stuck it may not do anything until you remove it/replace it.

There are 3 relays way at the back right of the main playfield. They control the game basically. If these got bumped or stuck the game won't do anything. Do you get a big 'thunk' when you turn it on? Do any of the solenoids/switches work? Do the basement lights go on and off every 10-15 seconds? (They should under normal attraction mode). There is also music that will go every 20-30 seconds or so...but that might be a setting.

Just throwing out things, but since you recently had them out, recheck your cables on the boards, and make sure you didn't accidentally pop the roms out.

You do but it is easy.

On the front left and right sides of the metal frame you will see a divots in the metal, and there is a screw on each side. This holds the upper pf in place. You just have to loosen those (not take them all the way out). To get to the right one you will need to prop the main pf up a bit so it clears the cabinet.

You also have to unscrew the bottom of the metal ramp that is attached to the main pf. Then it should just swivel up. Note that there are some short cables attaching it in the back of it - so you won't be able to completely lift it all the way up unless you disconnect those. In the back of the pf there are slots where the whole piece slides into as well.

The basement lights are not 5v or 12v they are 24v I think (i can look them up to validate, for some reason 23v comes to mind but that can't be right). It is possible someone put 47's in and they blew them.

And what did you do???

Does it happen when nothing is happening, or when other things are going off?

It actually should have 31" on the back so that is correct, but even doing that you have to extend them quite a bit to get some pitch.

Anyone have any idea where to get the relays in this beast? My Q relay keeps 'sticking' after time. Getting tired taking it apart to pull it out and demagnetize it.

Yea same with me. Mine isn't in horrible shape, and this looks so nice...

I guess I can. Not usually my go to since there's a minimum.

Something someone is probably going to get into trouble for.

The unbroken secret passage plastic almost sells it.

I personally think the robotic voice is out of place on this game. I assume you can disable that...but I'm not sure what other changes there are to the programming of the game.

Has the wrong length legs on the back.

I can't tell if the player 1 display has an issue or if that's something with the new programming.

It amazes me this game is being priced so high in general. This one isn't in bad condition, but mine is in better condition than this and I would never have imagined it would be worth $3k. I think 2500 is pushing it even for a pristine one. Guess it depends on how bad you want one. The condition is pretty standard for these.

Yea 27 inch in front and 31 inch in the back. Otherwise it is hard to get any pitch. Easy to find, and no more than normal legs.

What? Pictures? Maybe you have an early version? But pictures would help...

Are you sure it is aligned properly? Other than that, changing to a stronger coil is usually the trick.

Son of a...I got bamboozled.

I purchased a set probably 15 years ago as a backup but I never actually looked at them that closely. Dug them out to compare, and mine are 7 digit, and HH is definitely 6 digit alphanumeric. For some reason I thought they also came with the green screens. I paid a pretty penny for them too. Shhiiiit.

Anyway yes those look legit from what I can see. Just a typo(or doesn't know they are 6 digit). Guessing they are 4 from the backbox, missing the one that was on the playfield, and the other odd one for credits/balls.

So these are not HH displays, but they have the filters?

Now that I think back, doesn't the change to multiball include a change the score to 7 digit based on the board that is used?

Odd as it may seem, BH uses 27" on all 4. HH uses the 31" in the back.

Still on the look out for a Q relay if someone comes across a source. I've tried all the places I can find without any luck. (including PBR).

No sound on the original boards.

I don't know and I didn't know what he had. I powered mine up which has an original board and there was no sound until the attract music plays which isn't for awhile.

That's the thing too..mine used to clunk and I swear it used to play a sound, which is why i had to double check. I did the ground mods a few years ago, but I have no idea if that changed anything.

Only one thing that it could possibly be that makes sense. It's haunted.

Did you remove the ball and fiddle with the trough switch?

Before I start tearing into this can anyone confirm for me.

Mine has started to intermittently not play sounds (targets etc), or even keeps playing the same sound like a target is stuck.

The targets themselves do register.

I assume there are 2 levels of the switch, one for target, one for sound?

Is this correct that I need to adjust the switch leafs...or do I need to be looking somewhere else?

For the numbered targets, you do indeed need to hit them in order. They should light up when it is their turn. I don't remember if you get any score if you hit them when not lit.

For steepness, this game should have longer legs on the back than the front (I believe 27" on front, 31" on back). I believe i have my feet turned all the way in.

These relays are notorious for sticking/getting magnetized. You might try just wiggling and/or taking apart and cleaning if you haven't.

How are these printed? I bought a replacement years ago, but the way it was printed was not how the originals were and it already scratched up.

Shouldn't be dark at all, it's pretty bright down there with the old bulbs. Are you sure it is coming on? Or the bulbs aren't blown?