Finally got my Haunted House back up and running except for sound, which is intermittent at best. Pulled edge connectors, cleaned and replaced. Nothing seemed to work. I first attempted to bring it back using old boards and then replacements but ended up pulling them all and using PI-80 which solved a ton of issues and gave me fantastic diagnostic help to move forward but the sound issue is persistent and I am reaching out for ideas to debug. If you can point me to a good thread or drop some responses I'd appreciate it.

Figuring my next move was to replace the old sound board but with the new FLIPPP version but trying to avoid that if possible. New speech sounds neat but I really just want my classic sound back.

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All sound. Worked for a bit once I got PI-80 installed and then it stopped. Seemed to kick in occasionally and now nothing. Last time it did work the sound was all the way up and I simply reached in and lowered the volume but it reacted like an old volume control that was crackling with a bad connection. That is my current lead that I am chasing down.

Have original sound board but I did replace the aux sound power supply with a new one.

Checked the config. I only have the CLASSIC sound on. The background sound I tried enabling it to see if it made a difference. It didn't so I reset it back to disabled.

Hoping board still ok since sound did work for a bit..

Checked speaker connects. All looks good there. No hum at all. Dead silence.
Not sure if PI-80 Sound Test works for Haunted House but I get no tones on any of those tests.
Unfortunate because right after installing PI-80 board and at startup the sound was great.
Visually checked all fuses for burnout. Nothing. Next step I can meter them just to be sure.

Will dive behind glass again. Hit reset on sound board. Unplug connectors. Replug and try again shortly.

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Unplugged connectors from Sound Card and Aux Power to Sound. Reseeded them. All look good to me.
Hit test button on sound card. Nothing. Powered game back up. Nothing.
Sound card bad? As you can see I have already replaced the Aux Power.
Given where I am replacing the sound card entirely may be the best avenue, but I hate doing that when there are no obvious burnouts that I see on the card itself.

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I believe the new PI-80 board removes all needs for ground mods since those were geared toward the old controller and driver cards.
The only ground connection is on the new aux power board for sound (see upper left) and it is grounded. I have a local guy that can test and repair boards at ArcadeRescue911.com. Will give him a buzz.

Will also be testing the fuses again with my meter to make sure they are good. Seen too many posts where it still came back to a fuse that supposedly looked good. Maybe wishful thinking but since no sound is coming out there may be hope in that avenue.

Thanks. That gives me something to check on tonight.
Appreciate the guidance thus far. As we all know these are frustratingly satisfying journeys.
Happy on overall progress from where I started with a Dead HH.. Now at least it is somewhat playable but sound is essential.
After I resolve sound it will be on to Pop Bumpers. They are all dead as well.

Much appreciated! Updates later this evening.

Checking A6P1 Connections on Sound Card from top to bottom.
These are the meter readings

From Top to Bottom referencing 2nd picture
12v
0
0
0
5v
-----
0
0
5v
-----
5v
30v
5v
5v

Fixed now

Yea too much bourbon. Had on AC.
Readings are corrected now.

Hmm. Pulling the connector, shoving the meter probes into connector and then putting back must have done something.
I have sound. Then started to play game. Sound began to crackle but not consistent sound. I adjusted volume. No sound.

Sounds like something between board and speakers in wiring. Would you agree?

Wanted to check the potentiometer. Am I correct that if I touch the middle and either outer it should show a resistance AND if I dial the potentiometer one way or the other it should increase or decrease? With meter set on RX10k and dialing the OHMS ADJ down I get a reading of a little under 3 ohms. I am using an old analog so ballparking it around 2.7. Adjusting the volume does nothing to the reading. This reading is consistent no matter what prongs I touch.

Would a conclusion be that the base resistance of the wire is not being affected by the potentiometer but it should be? Wondering if it is bad.

Update. Since I am in restoration mode, so to speak, I went ahead and got two replacement speakers and 4 Pop Bumper replacement cards (separate task). Once they arrive I will be diving in. I see no option other than clipping the wire ties and tracing the speaker wires as you suggested early on. I have tried to stay away from cutting the wire bundles loose but I think that is the best approach. Have you ever tried to spot check a set of wires without cutting all the wire ties? I suspect there is a way for me to spot check the wire itself along the path and then strategically cut the ties loose. Any thoughts on this are appreciated as always.

OK.. I replaced all pop bumper cards with new Rottendog versions at $17/ea. When pulling the old boards there was a whitish residue on the screws and around the boards. Wonder what this may be from? At least with test switches and an LED on the cards I can immediately tell they are not getting power. Bundle cutting will begin since my ability to finger through them is almost non existent since there are Zip Ties are about every few inches so it is a very tight bundle, but I did spot three damaged wires that look like they may have gotten some heat at some point, but they do not appear to be broken. When I get back to this on Sunday, I will start clipping and tracing wires. It almost feels like if I am in for a penny I am in for a pound, meaning that I will start tracing pop bumper wires but since bundle will be cut ALL wires will be inspected. I have been truly avoiding this. I wonder if there are complete sets of replacement harnesses that could be purchased just to save time spot checking and simply hardening the entire machine by making sure the wire harnesses are as new as the boards they connect and since I am dealing with both pop bumper boards and sound it may be inevitable. Will try to be strategic this first go at it but I may just jump in for all its worth if I keep playing "whack a mole". Building all new harnesses from scratch is a daunting task that will challenge my abilities, to be honest.

Huge thanks for your assistance. The Pascal board lights all look good and everything else is working, other than sound and pop bumpers, so I am assuming all is good there. Yea the harness whining was only temporary. Knew I would be diving into the wiring runs for both the pop bumpers and speakers sooner or later. Will carve out some time tonight to do some voltage checks from voltage into board through to pop bumper boards. I know I see a few wires frayed above the bottom left pop bumper board. I am going to resolve pop bumpers first and then get back to sound. I will be ordering a new potentiometer anyway, just to eliminate that from the equation. Given the way it sounded weird when I was adjusting volume, when sound did work, I suspect it is defective or at least ready for a new replacement. Will update later on tonight.

Blowin up the fibre connection but..
pics 1- 5 show back of cabinet with PI-80 board, the original sound card and new aux power for sound cards. The Power LEDs on PI-80 indicate power and cpu light is flashing. Indicators look good. Bottom orange LED is a bit dimmer. Not sure brightness indicates anything though.

Rest of pics show each connection to the board. Pascal boards are very well documented on the board. Connectors show their original value but they all connect directly into one board eliminating the power, controller and driver boards. I still have to use the original sound and aux power for sound cards from original game. The pain in the ass connector between driver board and controller board was eliminated. Should note the large connectors normally on the right side of the old controller board are the ones without tags.. they are inverted to connect to board.

The original power board is still hanging in the cabinet but it is not connected to anything. Just haven't worried about pulling it yet.
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Well now.. I pulled the A1J6 connector. Uploading pictures. May have found my pop bumper problem.. No dangling wire.. weird. It appears to be missing the power wire.

Nevermind.. just because a pin is in there doesnt mean a wire was supposed to go in it. ... All wires look complete along harness
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Aw.. Sorry.. thought we were following up on the A1J6 connector testing. Here are the frayed wires..

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Will do. Given all 4 pop bumpers are not working and none of them are showing a lit LED on the cards, would that direct me toward power being the likely culprit. It does not appear these are wired in sequence making them vulnerable to a single point of failure other than power. If all 4 are out then either all the connectors are poorly crimped or power supplied to all 4 is the root cause. Will do a full check on connectors tonight... assuming my wife does not pull my chain to watch another romantic comedy or murder mystery tonight.

The continuity check will help direct me further.

Thanks again for your help.