Could someone post a picture of the boards in the backbox and how the harness is supposed to run? I'm working on a haunted house that was moved and want to make sure all the connections are in the right place and the harness is laying the way it should.

The game was somewhat working before moved but the displays were all out. Trying to get it back where it was where it would play blind and then trouble shoot the displays.

Got the machine up and running. One plug was missed and sitting in the base of the machine. It is playable but I can tell that I'll probably have to pull the boards and clean all the connector edges of them.

The fuse for the displays was blown. Replaced it but one display had all segments lit brighter than the other displays and the fuse went again. Disconnected that display and installed another correct fuse and displays still working with the exception of one digit in the playfield display. The manual was missing so I don't have the schematics yet. Any good troubleshooting tips for the displays?

Cleaned up a couple bad solder connections and cleaned the edge connectors with a pink eraser. All displays working now.

And double check that all the connections are plugged in. There are a lot of them and when I moving in my game it wouldn't start because one plug was missed.

I have two Haunted House sound cards to go through. The one on my machine is the later -3 and seems to work perfect and sound great. However I noticed that the heat sink is loose on the audio amp chip. It wasn't the extra heat sink bolted on. the metal tab that is part of the chip broke free and is loose from the chip body. Amazingly it still works but without the proper heat sink I doubt it will last long. Just ordered a new LM379S to replace it.

The other sound card is an earlier -1 from a friend. It seems to work but sounds awful. I can see a couple extra resistors and jumper wires on the back but from what I have read that is probably a factory mod on the earlier board. I'm going to start with the caps and see if that improves the sounds.

I had a chance to play someone else's Haunted House again last night (was the first one I had played before getting mine) I and definitely noticed differences in the way it plays compares to mine. Not all in a good way and I think that is why I at first I wasn't a huge fan of the game. The main issue was the drop from the secret passage into the cellar. Every drop went right into the center and immediately drained. Mine doesn't do that. What is the best way to adjust that? I also noticed the regular sound was off and was distorted. From repairing another sound board I found that can be caused by the precision adjustable resistor near the bottom edge of the board improperly adjusted closer to the extreme and causes clipping/distortion of the audio. I'm going to see if that will help fix the issue on the other machine I played last night. Would also like to help him get it dialed in so it will have the great game play it should.

Any insight on adjusting the secret passage drop would be appreciated.

I was able to find out they are all basically the same image just called out differently.

In case anyone is looking for a mat to place in front of your game I spotted these on close out at Lowes. The theme and colors go with Haunted House perfectly.

20181014_162835 (resized).jpg

Does anyone happen to know the weight of an assembled Haunted House machine?

If you have an original coin box for your Haunted House can you post a picture of it? I've looked at a ton of Haunted House pictures online but none seem to show the coin box. I'd eventually like to find one for mine and would like to get the correct one. Dimensions would help.

Thank you

I just had a lamp go out under one of the inserts under the small attic playfield. Is there an easy way to get to them or do you have to remove and lift off that upper attic playfield to get to them? I've never had to remove that yet. Is there anything to watch out for or any tricks to make it easier and safer to remove?

Did you replace the large caps in the bottom of the cabinet? If you replaced the original MPU because of battery damage have you checked for bad pins in the connectors?

What was wrong with the original board? I've fixed a few MPU and driver boards for these and a bunch of the sound boards.

I just moved mine home and need to get it setup soon. You'll have a lot of fun with it once working and dialed in. Great playing game with great music!

Are the contacts adjusted too close? If so, vibration from other devices could trigger it.

It is a great machine! Speech is pretty easy. Swapping out ROMs on the main MPU and sound card then plug in an SC-01 Votrax speech chip.

I'd gladly do it but recently moved the machine and haven't set it back up. Going to try and move my other machine over soon since I am looking forward to playing it again.

Someone should chime in.

What value are you seeing?

I finally had a chance to get my Haunted House setup again. It's been sitting since I brought it home from my parents. I have it up and running well but there is a new issue. Last time it was setup the audio was perfect. In attract mode between playing sounds it was silent. Now I get an odd sort of scratchy humming noise. It is loud enough to be annoying and wasn't there before. The machine is properly grounded and neither of the other two machines on that circuit have issues.

The ground mods were done and the main caps in the bottom of the cabinet were replaced before I got the game and I plan on going over all those connections again. Maybe check the volume controls in cases the oxidized a bit.

Has anyone else run into this? If you did what was the issue you found?

Still haven't found the issue yet. I'm leaning toward a bad ground. Almost has the sound of a transformer when the laminated core is going bad and it hums.

Going to pull the power board for the sound and go over that to see if I can find any issues there.

Issue is still there but I was wrong about the ground mods being done. Only extra grounds are on the main power board, MPU, and light board on the backglass.

It looks like I need to add them to the speech power board, speech board, and main driver board. That may clear up the issue.

I'm going to do the mods one at a time to see if any of them solve the sound issue. The sounds were perfect before moving the machine and I don't believe the issue will end up being on the sound card itself as i've already gone through that.

First board I pulled off was the power supply for the sound card. Just noticed there was corrosion around the screw, nut, and washer where the voltage regulator is supposed to make contact with the trace on the pcb which looked to be a poor connection. That is the first thing I'm cleaning up.

Have my machine working well again. It seemed to just be a bad connection. Sounds back to normal now. I wasn't expecting that it was the sound board since I went over that and fixed it when I first bought the game. Had also used it to repair a couple other Haunted House sound cards. One with speech and one without.

I would eventually like to get a spare system 80 MPU board for my game. Found someone with an 80A but I'm not sure on the backwards compatibility. Is another running an 80A in their machine?

Lost my lightning behind the Haunted House back glass last night. Otherwise, Everything is working well on the game and it is playing great. It looks like I'm only getting about .7 volts instead of 5v on the A11 lamp board which explains why it isn't activating any of those lights. Since I don't notice any other issues I'm goin to start with the assumption it is a bad connection on the 5v line.

Does anyone happen to know where that connector goes and what is the source that feeds it?

You can order them here: https://www.flipprojets.fr/HHparlant_EN.php

Looking for a few pieces to wrap up a Haunted House. If you have any spares hidden away that you can part with please sent me a PM.

- Smaller cardboard tube for board in backbox. Need 1 but would prefer two. Someone had knocked one off in the past.

- Stainless metal trim for the front of the upstairs playfield.

- Coinbox with lid (preferred) or without lid

Is the whole game resetting? Do you know if the ground mods were done on the game or if the boards have ever been serviced? May be time to go over the power board, caps, etc. If the ones in the bottom of the cabinet are original then those should probably be replaced.

Odd things can happen at anytime. My own game was working perfect until I moved it and brought it home from my parents. Lost part of the back lighting effects and had sound issues. Got them all sort out. Since then I've used my machine to rebuild a few sound boards and MPU.

Have you checked the driver board to see if the transistor is shorted for that coil?

What sounds are missing? Is it just the background sound? Some of the sound settings are configurable so I'd double check all the DIP switch settings first. If all else fails then look at getting your board repaired.

Are any of the ground mods done on your game? If not that is something you're going to want to look at. Are there any other Haunted House owners near you? I wouldn't just replace the sounds board. If you can run it in another game you can confirm if the sound board is working or not. If it is then you know the issue is somewhere else in your game. If the board isn't working then it can be fixed. All the ones I've had to work on have been solid once gone through. I'm sure there are others out there that repair them too.

The SC-01 is usually a pretty robust chip. However any overvoltage or reverse voltage will kill that chip. I would NOT recommend unplugging and plugging in power to any sound card with an SC-01 on it. Same goes for the display panels. No unplugging or plugging those on with the power on.

Anyone have a spare sound board (working or not) that you want to part with? Would also be interested in an original MPU and driver boards (non working projects ok)

Do you need your sound card repaired? I've fixed a few of them.

I wouldn't give up on it yet! It is a great machine once the bugs are worked out.

My Haunted House has all the required updates and has been reliable and totally solid. My sound card was bad but rebuilt it. Had to fix another Haunted house board and another with the Speech upgrade. Thought about adding an SC-01A to get the speech to mine and have the parts but prefer it just as it is. I did however update the main ROM on the MPU to make use of the unused sound for the trap door.

The driver board also plays a role in that some of the sound signals go through that to the sound card. Definitely check the connections between all the boards an ensure the ground mods are done.

I run them in my own Haunted House to test and verify them after any repairs.

Robert

When you power up your Haunted House do you normally just have silence or do you hear the sound board play a short sound? Just trying to confirm one way or the other.

I'm getting a short sound on power up but as far as I can tell everything is working as it should. I didn't recall hearing that before and wanted to confirm what is normal when running original boards.

My game has been pretty solid for the last couple years but wasn't booting yesterday when I tried it. There was prior work on the MPU and they didn't clean up all the battery damage. Also had installed a couple incorrect resistors in that area. Stripped all that off, cleaned up the rest of the corrosion, and found one small trace was open near a via. Fixed that and installed all the correct parts. Also took the opportunity to remove the 5101 chip and put in a socket with an NVRAM module.

Before putting it back in I checked all the voltages and found that the 5V was low. Board had been recapped in the past a couple years ago but the trim pot wasn't replaced. Going to order one on my next batch of parts. Was able to re-adjust that and after adjusting that and installing the rebuilt MPU the game was up and running again. Stepped through all the settings and cleared out the first 15 since the NVRAM had junk in there to start.

If that startup sound isn't normal I'll go back and check the connectors at the sound board, driver, and MPU.

It's odd since it seems like everything else is playing like it should. Will need to get some more games on it this evening so see if anything else is off.

That is what I recall mine was doing before. However I've also posted the same question on one of the Facebook groups and a few others have that same startup sound (same sound has hitting standup target #3 on the main playfield) and some that had no sound until later when the attract sound starts.

So it is a bit confusing. Everything seems to play just fine and as far as I can tell all sounds are working. Why are some making that startup sound and some not?

Maybe differences in the reset circuit? Some boards resetting faster than others? Maybe some have had chips replaced with ones from a different family?

Eventually I'd like to pickup a spare original MPU and driver (working or not) and once those are rebuilt would have some others to test with.

My Haunted House had ground mods done (and updates to pop bumper boards) when I bought it a few years ago. The game had display issues and sound problems. I rebuilt the sound board (and used my as a test fixture to rebuild a few other Haunted House Sound boards) and fixed the displays. I later ran into an issue with the backbox lightning but after fixing that the game has been running trouble free for the last couple years.

Just recently I had to re-adjust the 5V power supply and go back and cleanup the prior work on the MPU and I installed NVRAM while I had the board out. After getting it all back together I started hearing that startup sound. I have all original Gottlieb boards.

I looked back and there is a ground wire from the power in the base going to the main power supply frame in the back box. There are also wires from both power boards (main and sound) to that frame as well as ground wires from the MPU and light chaser boards to that frame too. I did not notice a ground wire from the sound card or driver board directly to that power supply frame where all the other grounds go. As a quick test I tried to clip on a temporary ground jumper from each of those boards to the power supply. Unfortunately it didn't make a difference and I still hear the sound when powering up the game. 4 of the sound select lines travel through the driver board while the 5th sound select line goes direct from the MPU to sound board

I'll take a look at the schematics. Wonder if that would benefit from adding some weak pull-up or pull-down resistors on those data lines will help.

You're right about the 5th line going to the lamp. I was going off of memory and saw that it was just going to a different part of the the driver when I looked at the schematics. That does have a chip with an open collector but it already has a pull up resistor.

The 5V power was low. I just had to adjust it with the trim pot and I have a solid 5v now. That the trim pot is old and I can tell it needs to be replaced. I have a higher quality one on the way which should be here this week.

When I replace that I'm going to go over the driver board, add the ground mod to that, and also replace a socket from a prior repair. Looks like someone used a 16-pin socket for a 14-pin chip. I hate when people do that since it can make it easy for someone to plug in a chip 1 pin off. Will put in a correct 14-pin socket.

I replaced a lamp in my upper playfield that was burned out and it seems to stay on whenever the lights on the upper playfield is on. The other three lamps next to it will cycle on and off. I think the light should cycle on and off too but I don’t remember. Can someone confirm if this light should be on most of the time? If not I may need to pull the driver board and check it.

8899BEF7-E27D-4F13-A004-A4F5AEEEE2A7 (resized).jpeg

Finally had a chance to pull the power board and install the new potentiometer for the main 5V supply. The old original was on it’s way out. Should have this back in soon and want to resolve that odd issue above with the lamp to get it back to 100 percent.

B790683D-479E-417E-8A96-2B54486863C9 (resized).jpeg

Thank You! Just wanted to get confirmation if it was right or not. Looks like I can go ahead and get it back together now.

How are the DIP switches set on the MPU board. Switch 5 turns background sounds on and off. Switches 3 and 4 can also control sound. Try turning switch 3 and 4 on if they are off.

With the power off have you reseated the connections? The signals from the MPU travel through the driver board.

If you don't have the manual you can get one from pbresource.com

Instead of pounding those in maybe put a block of wood on the playfield side (with cardboard, felt, etc to protect the playfield side and then just use and clamp to press them in. I would try that around that edge by the window.

Definitely the block or plank of wood. I meant to put the cardboard or felt between those to prevent any scratching of clearcoat, etc

Or if you get the Haunted House speech ROMs from flip projects that game can talk too. They sell it as a single chip but I’d rather split that image so you don’t need to mod the board to use.

As long as the sound board has the SC-01A then it really just needs swapping out the ROMs on the sound card and the one ROM on the MPU

If your playfields aren’t too bad just try some touch up first. With the glass on you may no longer notice. Since you obviously love the game (and it is an awesome game) you could always pickup a spare playfield set while they are available and just set it aside for if you ever really need it. Or pickup a Haunted House with trashed playfields, do the swap on that, and once you have a perfect one sell the old one. Plus there is so much stuff under the playfields that it would really help having a complete one sitting there as a reference.

I have a project Firepower I picked up that came with a brand new playfield. Person I bought it from lost interest partway through the swap. I already have a Firepower and will put them side by side when I work to complete repopulating the new playfield for the new one. That will make it easier.

What fuses are you looking for? Many are in the cabinet.

If you do that I hope you have it clearly marked and noted that the power was rewired otherwise it would be a headache for anyone working on the machine later expecting it to be the way it was.

There was one on Facebook Market Place for under $100 from a Black Hole

What boards is the game running? Are they all original boards? If so and they haven't been serviced then it probably needs a new trim pot for the 5V adjustment. I install the sealed multiturn precision version and those have been solid. My Haunted House started acting up and after replacing that it has been fine. Check the 5V at the MPU first. Also if you have the reset board remove it. There is a recommendation on pinwiki to remove that and add a resistor on the back on the MPU board instead.

Are the ground mods done on the game?

Ouch! I would send it back to get it swapped out.

That is specifically why I asked if it had original or aftermarket boards installed.

Would need to look up the AMP rating of a paperclip. That is a good catch and something that definitely needs to be addressed!

Maybe take a poll or get him a count on how many people want it. I would buy a spare set of plastics.

Those look really nice. Do you have a version without Free Play listed?

I was thinking just a blank spot to add pricing but now that you mention it I guess it would be easy to modify.

Checkout each one of the pop bumper boards. It is hard to tell from the picture but they may not have the updates. Those are mentioned in the System 80 section of pinwiki.com

The LISY80 boards work great. Running one in my Black Hole. Have also run it in Haunted House and Volcano. As far as Haunted House the 6 digit displays have been fine for me. If you need 7 digits you’re probably a much better player than I am. The multiball conversion is interesting but I think that is over rated and not worth it on Haunted House. Keeping mine a single ball game.

As far as speech that is a tough one. Depends if you have access and can get a spare SC-01A chip. I had a spare so it was worth it and I like the speech. But Haunted House is just fine without it. I’d just use the alternate main ROM to enable the sound for the trap door. For that you’d need to overlay the ROM image in the LISY ROM zip file. That part is easy. Then somehow update the configuration file for MAME for the new signature, checksum, or whatever is needed so it will use it.