Quoted from Lysurgeon:All I really need is a pic of how your bridge rectifiers are wired in. Could someone please post a pic?
I'll try to get a good pic of mine sometime this evening and post it here.
(Topic ID: 143518)
Linked Games
Haunted House
Gottlieb, 1982
Topic Gallery
Ellicott City, MD
Quoted from JeffA:Still haven't figured out my loose white / black pair of wires on the upper playfield. Logically seem to be involved in the pop bumper light and far left circle insert. Anyone know where these connect?
Thanks to everyone who lent a hand and a word of advice on this. Finally figured it out today. Very hard to see even with photos, but... white black wires went to screw plate for the insert light socket and the white / grey / purple went to the socket lug (not sure if that's the right name, but the side isolated from the screw plate. So frustrating and yet so simple. I love pinball.
While I'm here, has anyone re-capped their sound board? Does it make much of a difference? My wife mentioned to me that the game sounds a bit distorted. I know electrolytic caps have a lifespan of around 15 years so I guess it's probably time to do a re-capping job.
I was fairly shocked (get it? "shocked"... caps... "shocked"... heh heh) to see that there are over 20 capacitors on the sound board so, before I undertake this procedure, is the sound difference *that* noticeable with a freshly serviced sound card?
-Bob
Quoted from bklossner:While I'm here, has anyone re-capped their sound board? Does it make much of a difference? My wife mentioned to me that the game sounds a bit distorted. I know electrolytic caps have a lifespan of around 15 years so I guess it's probably time to do a re-capping job.
I was fairly shocked (get it? "shocked"... caps... "shocked"... heh heh) to see that there are over 20 capacitors on the sound board so, before I undertake this procedure, is the sound difference *that* noticeable with a freshly serviced sound card?
-Bob
Be very careful if you try to replace caps on a system 80 sound board. The solder pads and traces can get damaged very easily. If you don't have much experience you should find someone who does.
Thanks for the heads up regarding the recapping process. I have done quite a lot of soldering and pin repair so that's not a problem. 
"Hey, why is this trace sticking to my soldering iron? Maybe if I yank on it the trace will come off the soldering iron...."
Oh, never mind. There are only six electrolytic caps on the sound board. This will be a much easier task.
Quoted from bklossner:I am attaching some photos of the bridge rectifier setup in my HH.
I hope this helps.
Thanks for grabbing this. I fell behind on it this weekend and was just about to pop the hood to take the shots.
And thanks again for all of your help and advice back when I was ressurecting my HH from the dead. The thing has always played great and it's gotten a lot of use.
1 week later
My wife and I got each other a Haunted House for Valentines day, so here we are in the club! It's in pretty good shape. The previous owner had put in a new Rottendog MPU and a clear coat. It needs new rubbers and I plan on doing the ground mod in the next week or so. Does the Rottendog MPU need to be included in that? If so, where? All I've seen are instructions for using the original board.
Quoted from Doberbane:My wife and I got each other a Haunted House for Valentines day, so here we are in the club! It's in pretty good shape
Congratulations and welcome to the club! That's a nice looking HH you have there. Your PF's look to be in amazing shape.
I just wanted to say welcome and I'll let someone else chime in on connecting the ground mod to your rottendog MPU, as I'm not familiar with that board myself and where to connect the ground.
Canberra
Doberbane have a look at this thread -
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/system-80-ground-mods-with-rottendog-and-ni-wumph-boards#post-3581150
I had the same question for my ni-wumpf mpu and posted a photo. You might be able to do the same for rottendog.
Interested in a flipper button mod?
Or even just green buttons?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-custom-bally-flipper-button-mod
Just picked up a HH (fun story btw) but when I plugged it in all I got was some playfield lights and soon after the lower playfields upkick coil started smoking. I'm fairly familiar when it comes to troubleshooting games but I was just curious where you all would recommend starting at.
Hi everyone,
I've had a Haunted House for a few years, and I've finally gotten around to filling some hack screw holes + a couple of chunks taken out of the cabinet. There is a little green to touch up, but mostly it's the black. I've heard Rustoleum Semi-Gloss is a good match? Anyone use that, or have a better suggestion?
Quoted from Evilive69:Can someone take a picture of the mechanism that locks the back glass in the head. My Haunted House is missing the parts.
Quoted from Evilive69:Thanks for the pics kdunbar. Correct me if I am wrong here, but is it as simple as when you turn the key the long bar just slides the two short bars forward or backward to hold the glass in place?
It is that simple.
2 weeks later
Hi all, I got my Haunted House about a month ago and it has been tons of fun. Blue LEDs were installed in the upper playfield by the guy I bought it from, which I really like. I am doing 8 313 LEDs from cointaker with the green caps from pbwizard in the cellar. Also, swapping out the flipper rubbers with the super bands, blue in the attic, orange on main floor and green in the cellar. Here is a pic when I first got it. When I am done with the other stuff I will post more pics. I am also interested in doing some art on the side, spider webs maybe?
Besides the eight 313 LED's with green caps that I replaced to illuminate the lower playfield that are mounted on the underside of the main playfield, I was able to put in 2 green LEDs in the lower playfield. The other bulb holes and wood are too tight for the LED plastic above the metal housing. So, I am just keeping regular incandescents and it is OK. If someone has a work around to fit LEDs in those holes please let me know, possibly a different bulb but I have not found one.
Quoted from hawknole:Besides the eight 313 LED's with green caps that I replaced to illuminate the lower playfield that are mounted on the underside of the main playfield, I was able to put in 2 green LEDs in the lower playfield. The other bulb holes and wood are too tight for the LED plastic above the metal housing. So, I am just keeping regular incandescents and it is OK. If someone has a work around to fit LEDs in those holes please let me know, possibly a different bulb but I have not found one.
Have you tried taking the plastics off and putting the bulb in from the topside of the playfield? I'm not sure I understand what's going on. I have done three of these machines with full LED's with no problems.
Quoted from yonizzell:This is the third Haunted House I've restored, and it's the nicest one by far!
Nice man! I love to hear these words in the same sentence - Haunted. House. Restored.
I love mine, but one day I want to upgrade to a restored version or give mine the royal treatment and have it professionally done. It's a keeper title for me.
Congrats and enjoy it!
Quoted from yonizzell:Have you tried taking the plastics off and putting the bulb in from the topside of the playfield? I'm not sure I understand what's going on. I have done three of these machines with full LED's with no problems.
I have not tried taking the plastic off. For sure the plastic is the thing that stops the bulb from being screwed in as the plastic is wider than the wood. I will try and take the plastic off and see if that is better. Thanks for the suggestion.
Quoted from hawknole:I have not tried taking the plastic off. For sure the plastic is the thing that stops the bulb from being screwed in as the plastic is wider than the wood. I will try and take the plastic off and see if that is better. Thanks for the suggestion.
I mean the playfield plastic- take the little acorn nuts off and remove the plastic so you can insert the bulb from topside. You should probably hand polish the plastics and change out the rubbers as well. You're game will play much better!
Quoted from yonizzell:I mean the playfield plastic- take the little acorn nuts off and remove the plastic so you can insert the bulb from topside. You should probably hand polish the plastics and change out the rubbers as well. You're game will play much better!
Yup, that is what I tried before and on my machine the bulb sockets are so far down in the holes that the plastic lip on the bulb gets in the way so I can't push the bulb in down far enough to turn it. Maybe I could try to push the sockets up from underneath but something told me that wouldn't work, even though I did not try it. I will look at it again, thanks. BTW, plastics polished and rubbers replaced already. I am looking forward to swapping out the flipper rubber with the super bands if not for looks alone.
Quoted from hawknole:Yup, that is what I tried before and on my machine the bulb sockets are so far down in the holes that the plastic lip on the bulb gets in the way so I can't push the bulb in down far enough to turn it. Maybe I could try to push the sockets up from underneath but something told me that wouldn't work, even though I did not try it. I will look at it again, thanks. BTW, plastics polished and rubbers replaced already. I am looking forward to swapping out the flipper rubber with the super bands if not for looks alone.
Now I understand what's going on! Make sure you're not pushing down too far. That's happened to me before. Push the bulb down only so much and twist to the right and hopefullay it'll work!
Quoted from hawknole:Yup, that is what I tried before and on my machine the bulb sockets are so far down in the holes that the plastic lip on the bulb gets in the way so I can't push the bulb in down far enough to turn it.
Now this paints the picture as Yonizzell said as well. I've had the same issue and simply had to switch to a different LED type or different manufacturer to find ones that fit. If the base of the bulb is too fat to fit in the hole, there's nothing you'll be able to do to make it go down far enough to grab. But if it's due to the plastic dome on top of the LED, I would opt for a no-dome type of LED if you could.
When we hang sometime I'll bring my little box of LEDs and try different types out for you. But you may have this problem solved by that time, but either way I'm happy to help.
I'm all for incandescent because I love the original warm glow, but I "saw the light" eventually and switched to all LED. It really is so much better and you can trust it's healthier for the game and you wont have to worry about dying bulbs. Unless you want those incandescents in, trial and error until you find the right LEDs to fit will be your best bet. No sense settling for the old bulbs if you really don't want them in.
Quoted from davebart5:Now this paints the picture as Yonizzell said as well. I've had the same issue and simply had to switch to a different LED type or different manufacturer to find ones that fit. If the base of the bulb is too fat to fit in the hole, there's nothing you'll be able to do to make it go down far enough to grab. But if it's due to the plastic dome on top of the LED, I would opt for a no-dome type of LED if you could.
When we hang sometime I'll bring my little box of LEDs and try different types out for you. But you may have this problem solved by that time, but either way I'm happy to help.
I'm all for incandescent because I love the original warm glow, but I "saw the light" eventually and switched to all LED. It really is so much better and you can trust it's healthier for the game and you wont have to worry about dying bulbs. Unless you want those incandescents in, trial and error until you find the right LEDs to fit will be your best bet. No sense settling for the old bulbs if you really don't want them in.
You can choose warm white LEDs and still keep somewhat of an original look to your machine- that's what are used on the main playfield of mine and it looks pretty good!
Quoted from yonizzell:You can choose warm white LEDs and still keep somewhat of an original look to your machine- that's what are used on the main playfield of mine and it looks pretty good!
Yup, exactly what I did. Found retro looking warm white LED's and their perfect. The way I approach a game is this... cool vs warm. What is my base color? Cool or warm? I don't like mixing the two.
My HH, because of the nostalgia I have with it and the opportunity to keep it as original as possible parts wise, I opted for that game to have a warm LED base and then I sprinkled in areas of color LED's to accent certain features (attic, basement), but all other main PF GI and inserts are all warm using the same company and style for cohesiveness. I also think the warm tone matches candle light you'd expect to use or see in an old rickety haunted house too.
My TFTC, I went with a cool base for that and again sprinkled in color in key places for accent. I may switch that back to warm since that's my favorite color scheme for pins, due to that's how they were off the factory line, but for right now it's working well and the cool fits the eerie spooky vibe of the game.
Quoted from davebart5:Now this paints the picture as Yonizzell said as well. I've had the same issue and simply had to switch to a different LED type or different manufacturer to find ones that fit. If the base of the bulb is too fat to fit in the hole, there's nothing you'll be able to do to make it go down far enough to grab. But if it's due to the plastic dome on top of the LED, I would opt for a no-dome type of LED if you could.
When we hang sometime I'll bring my little box of LEDs and try different types out for you. But you may have this problem solved by that time, but either way I'm happy to help.
I'm all for incandescent because I love the original warm glow, but I "saw the light" eventually and switched to all LED. It really is so much better and you can trust it's healthier for the game and you wont have to worry about dying bulbs. Unless you want those incandescents in, trial and error until you find the right LEDs to fit will be your best bet. No sense settling for the old bulbs if you really don't want them in.
Hey guys, wondering if someone could help me out. I listed a center organ plastic to this page a while back and well...it zipped outta my hands pretty fast.
Anyone have the image they can send me to try and make one? I need one for my game I just picked up.
lmk, thanks, James
Dave, this is the "permanent battery" thing we were talking about tonight that I have in my BK. It says there are Gottlieb versions, wondering if anyone has tried one in their HH?
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1030-pinitech/00316-5101-nvram-battery-eliminator-for-high-score-save
Quoted from shacklersrevenge:Hey guys, wondering if someone could help me out. I listed a center organ plastic to this page a while back and well...it zipped outta my hands pretty fast.
Anyone have the image they can send me to try and make one? I need one for my game I just picked up.
lmk, thanks, James
Hey James, I just got a new set from PBR yesterday & Dave convinced me to pull it off until I get a protector. I tried doubling them up but they were too thick. I snapped a pic of the new one, not sure if you can use it. I can email it to you if you want. Question: How do you "make a copy"?
I have installed at least three of the dual CE NVRams from http://nvram.weebly.com
In BH and Panthera games so it will work fine for a HH. The 5101is not in a socket and it's 22 pins. The boards are fairly fragile so be careful when installing socket.
I just plug Andrew usually as I know his work and he was one of the first to drive the price to a better place. I am sure that other product will work too.
Quoted from hawknole:Dave, this is the "permanent battery" thing we were talking about tonight that I have in my BK. It says there are Gottlieb versions, wondering if anyone has tried one in their HH?
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1030-pinitech/00316-5101-nvram-battery-eliminator-for-high-score-save
The DUAL CE version will work in Haunted House or any other Gottlieb Sys80 game. As mentioned, it'll require removal of the existing RAM & a socket to be installed.
---
http://www.pinitech.com - "Pinball Inspired Technology"
NVRAM, kits, upgrades and test equipment for pinball machines
Quoted from hawknole:Hey James, I just got a new set from PBR yesterday & Dave convinced me to pull it off until I get a protector. I tried doubling them up but they were too thick. I snapped a pic of the new one, not sure if you can use it. I can email it to you if you want. Question: How do you "make a copy"?
Thanks for the help. I think I'm good with that and can do something with it.
I picked up a HH on the cheap. Funny story, I sold it partially disassembled, not working (and cheap at $450) to Ace at Niwumpf a few years back so he could code it for his new board set. The other day he let me buy it back for the same price and the game works now- win win!
It's got some wear and tear for sure, so I'm torn on what to invest time wise and money. I figure the best thing to do is just slowly try and touch this up to the best of my ability, piece by piece and make a sharp players game. I can always grab a nicer HH down the road, but why not make a solid looking players game? No harm in that.
Did a little tonight, wanted to experiment with the stairs area. I think it looks a helluva a lot better. I'll strip the rest down tomorrow, clean it up, touch up more on the attic and wait for a nice sunny day to clear it. Then move onto the cellar...
Cheers!
17759925_10155057844738529_6697086120164371021_n (resized).jpg17156256_10155057844768529_6381887018006064873_n (resized).jpg
Steps look good Shack, I opted for a darker as you go down look. Either way is better than wear marks. Dave suggested yesterday that someone should make decals for that area, I have some nice vinyl decals that cover my Magna Save circles on my Black Knight. It would be cool if we could get someone to make decals for us HH'ers.
I replaced the top left light posts in my HH today & it was kind of a pain. The lights are screwed in on top of the plastic post, staples all around and solder. So the left one came out OK, unscrew light, remove staples, lift out light from post, unscrew post, replace. The right one is the end of the ground run with a staple in the solder at the end. So the light socket came undone from the solder. Not a great design, even to just replace the bulbs. I tried to put in a frosted dome LED but the post hole is too small, need an LED without a cap. Resoldered & stayed with incadescents for now. New posts are in & look great, done until I find some LEDs that fit.
Quoted from CNKay:I have installed at least three of the dual CE NVRams from http://nvram.weebly.com
In BH and Panthera games so it will work fine for a HH. The 5101is not in a socket and it's 22 pins. The boards are fairly fragile so be careful when installing socket.
I just plug Andrew usually as I know his work and he was one of the first to drive the price to a better place. I am sure that other product will work too.
Thanks for this, I am just not sure I want to mess with "something fragile" on my board at this time.
Latest adventure with the HH, I picked up a CPR green window and it comes with 20 small thin black washers, I installed these 20 with the original washer on the bottom to get the window flush with the playfield wood. It didn't look great if you looked close but worked. Then I checked PBR & Steve had the larger, thicker foam washer, I got 10 of those and 10 new screws. Put the new window back on and "crack" goes the window around the screw hole. The new washers are much thicker than the 35 year old compressed washers. So back to BAA for another green window. I installed that one very carefully and slowly with the new screws and new washers from PBR and now the window is good, floating and flush as it should. I know, some of you will laugh at my folly, for me some lessons are best learned the hard way.
1 week later
Hey guys, I need your help! I'm shopping out my HH and I'm trying to put it back together now. I'm having trouble remembering how it all went back together. I took a bunch of pictures but sadly I broke my phone screen yesterday and it's completely out now. Hoping somebody has some pictures of this area, preferably with the plastic off. I'm really having trouble getting the gate back in place but I'm sure there will be more that pops up.
Quoted from davebart5:Here's a pic I have of that area from when I was first pulling parts off to shop mine out.
Let me know if you want me to go pull my plastic off for a new shot from a different angle.
Thanks a bunch that shows me what i needed to see!
I'm joining the club! I'm about to make this beast speak and multiball. I have been modifying it over the past few weeks. She came to me in nice shape so I'm giving her all the bells and whistles! I may bring her to the York PA show this fall if I'm finished.
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