What you can do is call them and just order the first item, the Haunted House, without the subscription. Unless you want the whole collection.

Just to let everyone know....... Ministry of Pinball has the "Secret Passage" plastic back in stock. Got mine from there a few months ago.

Thanks, just ordered one. I repaired mine when I did my triple PF swap but nice to have a new one!

How are these printed? I bought a replacement years ago, but the way it was printed was not how the originals were and it already scratched up.

Also, Marco has a protector for this plastic. Got one of those also! https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CA-PS-HH-SP

Hope all is well! I did the pop bumper mod for the VUK. Works great. Only issue is I get phantom kicks occasionally when flippers are used. gets a little annoying. Not a switch issue but seems like interference some place. Ive tried a different pop bumper board. Works perfect otherwise . Just dont want to send out like this. I did notice that some HH have a capacitor across the VUK coil. Mine does not. Thanks! JR

I"m going to copy and paste this into the Sys80 thread but I'm having a bit of trouble getting my Haunted House's sound to work after pulling it out of storage. Good news is, other than that, the game plays perfectly after sitting in my basement for a bit. Stoked about that.

When I put it all back together, the audio was working, but was really ugly and distorted, but present. After letting it sit off for a day or two, I got no sound at all. I noticed the -12v was bad and was only doing -7v. Pulled another S/S power supply. I had lying around and now it's booting and sounding nice, HOWEVER I have no sound impulses at all any more. When the board is just sitting, it plays the attract mode sounds loud and clear, but I can't get any of the impulses form the game to do anything!

NiWumpf Driver, Swemmer CPU, rebuild PSU, stock sound board (sound board and driver board tested against working backups I have)

A few things:
All the voltages on the sound board are correct.
I've swapped sound boards and driver boards with known working ones. No change.
Replaced Z31, Z15 on the CPU. No change.

Thoughts on where to look here?

On the solder side of the Pop Bumper Driver board, install a 4.7mfd 10v capacitor. Solder the minus (-) leg of the cap to pin 4 of the molex connector pin (the "input" line). Solder the positive (+) leg of the cap to pin 5 (the +5 volt line). This is a very important step! Without this filter cap, the input line running from the CPU to this new Pop Bumper Driver board can pick up noise. Every time the flippers are pressed, the upkicker can fire without this cap.

Thank you.! That took care of it.

New tech help needed. On HH only when the trap door is used to get to the bottom pf the lower pf lights and flippers do not turn on yet the audio changes accordingly as if the ball did go down. The secret passage and cellar entrance to the lower pf work as it should.

Thanks in advance for any help

Hello group!

I’m having a strange pop bumper issue. The culprits are the pop in the attic and the lower left main PF pop. I start the first game after power on, and the bumpers fire for about two to three hits. Then they go dead. Fuse is working and they did work for a second. But after a few fires they just die. The other two pops work fine (Upper PF and Basement)
What should I be looking for. I will mention that this hasn’t had the pop bumper upgrade board yet. Thanks!

Well, there you have it.

Reflow the header pins and do the mod.

Make sure the coils are the correct value. A-1496 IIRC

I have a really nice HH for sale in a few weeks once I burn through a few other projects in the queue. Extremely nice cab and playfield, some new boards. Has sound issues to be addressed and general look over to make sure 100%

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My Haunted House just died. First power on, the fourth score was brighter than the others and showed a fully lit score with the hashes in the middle. Reset the machine with a power cycle and it worked. Played two games. In the second game third ball, every switch just died including the flippers. Menu switch as well. Game is lit up and cycling through the lights as normal, but no switch works. Any clue where to start?

86 that. Simplest things sometimes. F4 solenoid fuse blew. Replaced it and back in business.

Just discovered a short causing my earlier issue with the f4 fuse. The bottom left main pop blew out f11. Replaced it and it blew immediately on startup. The pop bumper boards are new from Rottendog and haven’t had an issue for weeks. The coil feels warm. It was a slow fire as well, the bumper didn’t retract immediately. Diode issue or coil issue?

Could be a magnetized coil stop. They like to do that on Black Hole and Haunted House.

Has anyone found Invisiglass that will fit Haunted House? The wide body glass I’ve seen on line is too small.

Negative ... I have looked into it and came away realizing nobody makes that as a standard offering. It is a shame as HH really could benefit from it, especially for better visibility of the upper playfield.

Weird sound problem has cropped up in my HH. Sometimes when powering on there is no sound...power it off, then back on and it works fine. Completely random. If it works, it will continue to work seemingly forever. I've already replaced the edge connector for the sound board. Sound board has been recapped.

Sound board power supply hasn't been worked through. Zener diode CR1 looks like it's gotten pretty hot. Big electrolytic is original. Possible culprit?

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That board delivers the +30V for the Audio Amplifier and -12V for the DAC's and OpAmps. If the big capacitor is bad, it will result in a 100Hz (120 in the USA) humming sound. C2 has been replaced in the past, you can check the solderwork. It is easy to test the +30V and -12V presence at the soundboard when the audio powersupply is installed. You can also check for ripple with a multimeter in AC Voltage mode.

First power-on after work today was no sound, rebooted after 3 or 4 mins and it was fine rest of night. Weird. The voltages at the sound board look "okay" if not just a wee bit low. Might start with the big cap and zener diode tomorrow on that PS. Local electronics shop has that stuff. I checked for reset signals on the 6502 and 6532 and they all look good. Next time it happens I'll check pin 7 with my logic probe and see if anything is there.

Hello,
joined the club 2 weeks ago.
I have already upgraded in 7 digits and speech from Davroux Brothers.
7 digits from Boston Pinball Company
very nice.
Working to clean it and repainting small parts on the playfields , but really a nice one.
Playfield Protectors installed, DEL everywhere,
New plastics, Cliffys on both holes.
A special thanks to Duffysarcade for helping.
And now it is a nice Trilogy
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Looks great! You are welcome for all the help. Really nice US-model Black Hole you have there too!

Yes, very nice thank you again for everything

And for your sound issue I had the same last week.
Just moved the switches on the sound board on and off 2 or 3 times,, and contact spray on the switches.
No more issue till now.

Sounds good. I'll give that a try.

Just joined the club! Got new legs from Steve and a new backglass on the way (old one pretty destroyed).

Anybody have a line on the chrome trim or is everyone just using black?

Thanks,
Steven

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Welcome in the HH owners club.
Yours looks very nice, Playfields seem really in good shape.
Where did you purchased your spare backglass?
Mine after some good work :
Update to 80A and speeching from Davroux Bros Flipprojets, 7 digits from Boston Pinball Company, Playfields Protectors, DEL everywhere, and a lot of cleaning.

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The HH is now with old friends.
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Got a backglass from Shay arcade group in NY. Looks amazing and much better than my old one (which was missing a lot of art flakes off).

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Looks great.
Can you show the inner side?
Mine is black instead of the original grey, and when installed, the lightnings over the house are foggy when lighted, compared to the original.
Have you tested?
And more :
I want to install a black or chrome lift trim on the new backglass.
Which thickness have I to buy?
new one
original
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Hey 80s Fans,
I have to order trims for the new backglass.
Please confirm :
thickness is 1/8, right?

What color was the original trim? Was it more gold colored or a chrome like color?

I ordered some samples and I forgot to get the gold. Looks like my original was possibly a bit golden. I did order brushed and chromed steel. I kinda dig the chrome.

Thinking about ordering several feet and cutting up top/side sets for sale since nobody really sells the metal chrome for gottlieb games right now that I can find.

Thoughts?

Also, the trim thickness should be 1/8”.
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OEM was gold but the chrome or black both look fine in my opinion. 1/8" is correct.

I am looking for a headbox for my buddy. He literally has everything else to put a game back together. It doesn’t necessarily have to be from a haunted house, but it does need to have the metal grills/mesh on the sides my the backglass. Please let me know

There was one on Facebook Market Place for under $100 from a Black Hole

I have a rottendog main board in my HH and I tried to "install" the free play hack (jumper wires in the cab) but no luck. Are the Dips different for the rottendog board? Thanks all

Anyone find a place to get non glare glass for HH or is that still unobtanium?

Well, I'm doing the unthinkable and operating my Haunted House on location in Boston. Here goes nothing.

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I haven't found any. Would love to know though! My glass has some swirls from a smart ass with a key I imagine...luckily they're not too distracting

You may have already solved this but I used this chrome trim
Story at the link

https://thepinballloft.com/2022/07/03/spooky-swap/

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Thanks.
I will try to get some

Anybody have a source for the flat allen head screws for the main basement window as well as the felt pads that sit on the underside of said window? Thanks

Go to the source. PBR has what you are looking for.

https://www.pbresource.com/hauntedhouse.html

Thank you sir!

I have a haunted house that now refuses to boot. It was having Reset issues. The BR tested fine, but I replaced it anyway and the filter caps. Now it doesn't boot at all. I have done some testing and I am not getting 10V AC to the Sound/Power BR. But I am not entirely sure how to check the transformer for the voltages.

What boards is the game running? Are they all original boards? If so and they haven't been serviced then it probably needs a new trim pot for the 5V adjustment. I install the sealed multiturn precision version and those have been solid. My Haunted House started acting up and after replacing that it has been fine. Check the 5V at the MPU first. Also if you have the reset board remove it. There is a recommendation on pinwiki to remove that and add a resistor on the back on the MPU board instead.

Are the ground mods done on the game?

I finally figured this out. The new RottenDog powersupply has a short in it. Go figure.

Ouch! I would send it back to get it swapped out.

That is specifically why I asked if it had original or aftermarket boards installed.

Looking for a few plastics, my secret passage is a bit rough and the other one I'm completely missing so anything is better than nothing. let me know if you have either. thanks!

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Can someone take a quick look and confirm my wiring is correct? These are the upper playfield flipper coils. Green/ground wire far left lug non banded diode side, middle lug eos switch wire, right lug striped and eos switch wire on banded side of diode. Thanks

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