If the price is good and it’s pretty solid other than those few issues, just buy it. Any sys80 that sits will have quirks to work through and need some bulletproofing.

Flippers could be a fuse or relay.

Check that boards look good, check displays work (it’s usually OK if they are a bit dim). Look for bad hacks or missing parts. Check for missing plastics and playfield wear. Factor all of this into the price you offer.

You will also typically need to do grounding mods, some power supply work, and repin connectors to make these reliable.

This project is epic. Seriously, check out the other thread and prepare to be amazed. Haunted House fan of the year for sure!

100% good info, the flippers very likely are just a relay that is not contacting properly. I would be most concerned about the sound but certainly for the right price just grab it, everthing can be fixed. HH truly is an awesome machine and an all-time classic.

Thank you naf_llabnip for those kind words.

Before I start tearing into this can anyone confirm for me.

Mine has started to intermittently not play sounds (targets etc), or even keeps playing the same sound like a target is stuck.

The targets themselves do register.

I assume there are 2 levels of the switch, one for target, one for sound?

Is this correct that I need to adjust the switch leafs...or do I need to be looking somewhere else?

No, from my understanding the switches run through the switch matrix and the sound triggers are sent through U4-6532-1 and then sends signals to the Z7408 that operates as the sound control. Could be a break in the data/address buss. Could be an issue with your sound board. I kind of know how all of those things work in theory, but not sure which one I'd suspect for that issue.

Haven’t had the playfield up in over five years on this one. Still nice and clean!

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Most likely a pin problem. Very common on Sys 80. The pins going to the MPU for sound are not making good contact.

I am having an issue with my upper playfield pop bumper light. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't If I take the bulb out and put back in it works for awhile. Seems the bulb is loose in the socket. The person before me converted the game to LED's so not sure that is why the bulb is loose or if the socket is broken. Any suggestions?

Most LEDs are slightly smaller than standard bulbs. Power down the game, remove the LED and squeeze the socket with a pair of needle nose pliers. Just a little, don't over do it. The idea is to make it snug on the base of the LED.

thanks i will give that a shot

I’ve got a brand new Playfield and new plastic set. And a rotisserie.

Wish me luck!

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Who has the plastics currently?

Whoever bought up the last of Steve's stock.

Congrats, and good luck! I'm in same boat and have the topside torn down now
New playfields, new plastics, new rails new pops, lots of new parts

Question ... how do you remove these nails? Best I can come up with is "carefully"
I have new black rails that I ordered from Pinball Life so if I damage these it's not the end of the world
I also ordered new 18 ga 3/8 nickle colored escutcheon pins from Ebay
ebay.com link: itm

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Also - heads up when pounding in T-nuts. Couple of things I discovered

The Mirco drilled holes are just slightly too small. At least for the brands of T-nuts I had on hand
You'll need to drill out at least enough depth in the hole to accommodate the threaded shaft of the T-nut

The T-nuts around the "window" in the playfield might be problematic if you are not careful
The are very close to the edge of the window AND that edge is routed (so it's thinner there)
I shoved a magazine that was the same thickness of the "missing" wood so when pounding in the T-nuts, that (potentially fragile) edge had support

FYI - There are 28 #6 T-nuts

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Instead of pounding those in maybe put a block of wood on the playfield side (with cardboard, felt, etc to protect the playfield side and then just use and clamp to press them in. I would try that around that edge by the window.

They come out pretty easy. Slip a slim metal putty knife between the ball guide and wood rail. Wiggle it a little and the nails should work free.

It never feels good though. You will always feel like you're doing something wrong.

Thanks!

Great idea - less stress

Good idea, but to be really safe, I would use a plank of wood instead of cardboard or felt. Even a 4x4" block will distribute the pressure and not telegraph an indentation.

Definitely the block or plank of wood. I meant to put the cardboard or felt between those to prevent any scratching of clearcoat, etc

In case anyone interested, there is a channel on Youtube (not mine) that has been putting out a bunch of Haunted house videos as he is fixing one up. He shows how to make necessary repairs for the game and even is making videos showing the differences between after market sound boards and CPU boards. Pretty interesting stuff and a lot of the information may help a newbie that just bought a Haunted house

A link would probably be helpful too.

https://www.youtube.com/user/PinballHelp

added link

I got them from a guy in Italy

Thanks for that. Might help me with my issue with no gi

Is anyone running the Pascal 80x4 all in one board in their game? If so, what are your thoughts?

I have a pascal pi 80 board in mine. I didn't install it and bought it this way. I love it however. It gets rid of a bunch of old boards, you have the option to have speech with it, you can set it to only play the original sounds however. It allows to to enter initials at high score, allows for free play and a bunch of other great things.

Hey all.. anyone have the counts for the faceted posts in this game? Seems as if there are two lengths and I think it would look great to replace them all when I do the rubbers.

Anyone know where to get replacement 31 inch rear legs for the haunted house? Steve Young looks to be sold out according to his website. My haunted house came with two sets of front legs

Look at Steve's website at the below link. It will tell you the number and sizes of each.

http://www.pbresource.com/hauntedhouse.html

Hey guys, glad to join the club! First Gottlieb ever and of course I go with the most complicated. So highly likely I'll have "obvious" questions in the near future. That being said my game is a solid player but I still need to give it a good clean, replace some lamps and rubbers, and also determine if a few quirks I've encountered are "normal".

First issue I've noticed, I suspect is just a switch adjustment, but the number 2 kick back target seems to kick back immediately and doesn't seem to register solid like target 1 does. There's not a special gameplay rule to make the target light is there?
Also, I think I hit the extra ball shot and the game knocked maybe 3 times, played some different fanfare and kicked the ball out. Is that normal? I didn't get an extra ball so I'm wondering if it's a gameplay setting + a dead bulb, or just normal behavior if the shot is unlit.

Other than that I've been having troubles with my plunger shooting the ball all the way up. Clearly I need this rubber replaced but it also has me wondering what steepness are most of you all using?

I got a pretty good game with player 4 - not too shabby for less than 10 plays in my ownership.

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For the numbered targets, you do indeed need to hit them in order. They should light up when it is their turn. I don't remember if you get any score if you hit them when not lit.

For steepness, this game should have longer legs on the back than the front (I believe 27" on front, 31" on back). I believe i have my feet turned all the way in.

Can anyone explain the monster bonus to me? I see some targets seems to add to it while others don't? The bonus is added to your score at end of ball.

Monster Bonus is points for the "attic" or "cellar" scoring. When the ball is in the cellar, points add up quicker and almost everything scores after you complete a drop target bank and number "2" lights up in the cellar.

thank you

Yeah - I have to do some manual target testing. I think I've got lights out or something going on. I just did that to my machine (minus some slight adjustment to make it level). According to my pinball leveling app it put the game at 4 degrees. Seems the least steep of any of my machines. That might be fine though, the ball still seems to get moving fast enough. Though I've had it get hung up in a couple places. One on top of the lower left pop bumper which I could hopefully alleviate by modifying the sensitivity, and then one time of the far left flipper's wire gate. I've still yet to fully clean down the playfield and wax it. That will probably make it even quicker to where I wouldn't want it much steeper. We'll see!

In the middle of a (3) playfield swaps here on my HH.

I see a wire near the relay bank that has popped off
Does anyone have a clear pic of that spot on the relay to indicate where that wire goes??

It's "White wire - Purple/Gray stripe"

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Not correct unfortunately.

On Black Hole, all the points scored on the lower playfield are collected in the bonus.

On Haunted House, it's "any lit target" which means any standup target that is lit, or any drop target that is up. This includes the kickback targets, the standup targets, and any up drop targets, on all playfields only when lit. It does not include pop bumpers or slings on any of the playfields. When you complete a 1-2-3-4-5 target, hitting that same target still adds to the bonus. There are certain rollover switches that add to the bonus, but I am not sure which ones do and which ones don't (for example, the left upper outlane that opens the trap door does, but the one below it only does when lit (and there's an insert for it).

For a bit, I was really curious about how and why each one of these targets scores to the bonus, but I guess it's all random. See attached picture from the manual. Turns out, everything is clearly described in the manual (go figure)

I love Haunted House and I will only ever get rid of mine to get a nicer one, but damn, this game is so poorly thought out and the rules are dogshit.
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Interesting, that may explain why i got such a high score the one game and can't get close to it anymore. I must of added lots of bonus points the one game. One a side note can anyone actually aim and hit the 1 & 2 targets intentionally? The angle and placement make it seem like you have to get lucky to get them. The 3 through 5 are easier to get but I cannot seem to actually hit 1 and 2 on purpose.

I can get 1-2, 4-5 pretty easily. The 3 and the extra ball are usually luck on HH for me.

For me on my machine #1 is hard, maybe hit it 1 out of 10 shots, #2 I can get maybe 1 in 5, #3-5 all reasonably easy, maybe 1 out of 3 shots, extra ball is hard but easier than hitting #1. I am a very inexperienced player compared to most Pinsiders, but much better at HH after owning it for about 6 months.

Fantastic, welcome to the club, and that is a nice looking HH you have! I love mine, just a classic game and one I always gravitate to for a quick pin fix. And I have learned a bunch about working in machines, because truly is haunted . Anyway, sounds like yours may need some switch adjustments, don't think the three knocks is normal for ball eject, and taget 1 and 2 behavior should basically be the same. You might try watching some gameplay vids on YouTube for comparison. And yes the ball should have NO problem reaching the top, maybe replace the rubber and disassemble and clean if needed (might need a different spring as well). Also you can at least get an eyeball idea of how fast the table plays from YouTube and set yours up to be similar. I can snag a quick digital measurement of my playfield angle tomorrow if that would help. Anyhoo, have fun with your HH, truly is a magnificent beast!

I did resolve the shooter issue. Turns out the rod drifted from the intended position, and the rubber tip on it was trashed. Fixed those and now it works great.

As for the pitch I'm really still stumped. I had it around 6 and it played fast! But not too unreasonably so to the seasoned player. I moved it back down to around 4 and people seem to be having an easier time with it, and the ball can still generate decent speed, but instead sometimes just feels too slow and it's meandering to different areas with no real purpose.

I've yet to fully clean it up, replace rubbers, wax and the whole 9 - too fun to play it while waiting for everything else. I've noticed my settings are not standard though. I don't get awarded extra balls per the Apron, and I need to fix the dead bulbs before reading into things too much. I've still got to become acquainted with the built-in tests for this system of machine. I've only worked on Williams System 6/7 and WPC89 prior.

Ran into an issue with HH tonight, looking for additional troubleshooting steps. The symptom is no sound at all.

Game and Sound was working, Fuse f2 was blown and game wouldn’t boot. Replaced f2, game booted but no sound.

Fuse F8 is good and has correct voltage
All the test point voltages on the sound board are correct.
reseated all connectors (multiple times)
flipped the background sound dipswitch off an on
Tried different positions of the volume pot

Still no sound, any ideas would be great.

Maybe check Z13 on the driver board?

The test button on the sound board doesn’t seem to do anything. I’m assuming that means the problem is likely the sound board itself?

Doesn’t seem like there are any replacements available while I work out what’s wrong with this one. Anyone happen to have a lead on one or any other thoughts?

You may want to check/replace C3 on the sound board. Might be keeping your sound board from booting. Worth a shot, good luck!