Haunted House
Gottlieb, 1982Quoted from jetmechinnc:I hope you can figure it out. Dumb question, but are there credits on the game? I’m new as well to the solid state Gottlieb world, but I’ve read the 1980s games don’t have free play unless you jumper wires. Might just need to put in a quarter?
To coin up I have to go inside the coin door and hit the coin switch. It coins up credits but won't start a game. When I push the start button it just takes a credit away.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:Jumper the slam switch on the door to the closed position and repeat the power on test. Does it act different? How are the pins on your cable running between the MPU and driver board? You might need to replace / repair that cable. PM me if you want a new one, I still have NOS parts to make those. Do you know how to clean the edge connectors on the board? The best way is very old school. Take the board out and use an old rectangular rubber pencil eraser on the edge connectors until they are shinny. Clean the area with alcohol and reassemble. Do not sand them. A lot of people do and it is just plain wrong. Report back your findings. Don’t worry, we’ll help you get it sorted out.
I did the slam switch closed, cleaned the connectors on the boards and still the same thing, no change.
If your pins are good (that’s a big if because they are almost always shot) and the game worked before I would try swapping the driver board from your Mars God of War. You can also try swapping the power supply. It is nice to have an extra system 80 hanging around. The mpu / driver cable should be firmly attached to the board. If it slides off easily the pins are worn out. It would be helpful if you could post a photo of the pins on the MPU side of the connector. That is where the damage usually takes place.
The door slam switch should be closed. The other problem switch is at the base of the main playfield by the coin door. That one should be open. Those two combined with the trough switch ( should be closed when the ball is sitting on it) are the usual suspects.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:The door slam switch should be closed. The other problem switch is at the base of the main playfield by the coin door. That one should be open. Those two combined with the trough switch ( should be closed when the ball is sitting on it) are the usual suspects.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I'm going to check those switches and try the swap of the boards. I'll report back
Anyone have a spare sound board (working or not) that you want to part with? Would also be interested in an original MPU and driver boards (non working projects ok)
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:The door slam switch should be closed. The other problem switch is at the base of the main playfield by the coin door. That one should be open. Those two combined with the trough switch ( should be closed when the ball is sitting on it) are the usual suspects.
[quoted image][quoted image]
So, I cleaned all the connectors on the boards with a eraser and alcohol, adjusted the switches on the coin door and ball trough. I took a few shots of the two connectors that I felt were a little loose. A3-j5 on the driver board and j4. Oh I also swaped out my driver on my Mars and it didn't make a difference. One side note.. When I turn the game on the displays come on right away full zeros. The game will stay like this and not do anything. I push start nothing happens. Once I open the coin door nothing happens until I shut the coin door hard. Then the game clicks and goes into attract mode. If I then hit the start button it just makes a sound from the game and takes a credit away
20200529_194057 (resized).jpg20200529_194041 (resized).jpg20200529_194057 (resized).jpg20200529_194112 (resized).jpg20200529_194159 (resized).jpg20200529_194218 (resized).jpgQuoted from Jasenwm:So, I cleaned all the connectors on the boards with a eraser and alcohol, adjusted the switches on the coin door and ball trough. I took a few shots of the two connectors that I felt were a little loose. A3-j5 on the driver board and j4. Oh I also swaped out my driver on my Mars and it didn't make a difference. One side note.. When I turn the game on the displays come on right away full zeros. The game will stay like this and not do anything. I push start nothing happens. Once I open the coin door nothing happens until I shut the coin door hard. Then the game clicks and goes into attract mode. If I then hit the start button it just makes a sound from the game and takes a credit away [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
One. Pic is. Of the ball trough twice my bad
Quoted from Jasenwm:One. Pic is. Of the ball trough twice my bad
That first photo showing the pins looks pretty bad. You need to address that before doing any more troubleshooting on HH. You can test your HH driver board and P/S in the other system 80 game. A successful test will eliminate that from the possible problem list. Let’s see a photo of your MPU. Any acid damage can be an issue.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:Your first photo showing the ball trough is very wrong. That should be closed with a ball sitting on it. Yours is open. That might be your problem. Adjust that and see if it fixes things.
[quoted image]
I was thinking that about the ball trough. I closed it with my finger and it didn't change anything? The mpu is new no damage. I'm going to repin the connectors like you suggested and see what happens
Quoted from Jasenwm:I was thinking that about the ball trough. I closed it with my finger and it didn't change anything? The mpu is new no damage. I'm going to repin the connectors like you suggested and see what happens
Please adjust so it is closed when a ball is in place while booting.
Fix before proceeding.
Quoted from Jasenwm:I was thinking that about the ball trough. I closed it with my finger and it didn't change anything? The mpu is new no damage. I'm going to repin the connectors like you suggested and see what happens
The game needs to see this switch closed to start a game. It is a must fix.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:The game needs to see this switch closed to start a game. It is a must fix.
So I adjusted the ball switch and repinned the main connectors and went and up graded to a ni wumpf new cpu. Now when I turn it on and attempt to start a game the ball is kicked out to the lane like normal but then the display reads a error message? It says BAD ONE on the display? I'm not sure what that means?
Quoted from Jasenwm:So I adjusted the ball switch and repinned the main connectors and went and up graded to a ni wumpf new cpu. Now when I turn it on and attempt to start a game the ball is kicked out to the lane like normal but then the display reads a error message? It says BAD ONE on the display? I'm not sure what that means?
Switching to a aftermarket board actually compounds the problem for me. I am a OEM Gottlieb guy. Sorry, you're going to need to contact Ni-wumpf to find out what that error means. Report back what you find out and we'll start running down the next steps.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:Switching to a aftermarket board actually compounds the problem for me. I am OEM Gottlieb guy. Sorry, you're going to need to contact Ni-wumpf to find out what that error means. Report back what you find out and we'll start running down the next steps.
I emailed the company and asked what that messege ment. This is the reply I received from them.
''Normally that messege is indicating that the Slam switch has been detected on the game. It will come up at game start,because it was ignoring the switch until then. Let's start with looking at the Slam circuity for the game, on the front door, and the ball roll tilt.''
I emailed back telling him more about the issue but I'm confused why the Slam switch is still an issue because I bought this board because it states the board will disable and ignore the slam switch common issues?
Quoted from Jasenwm:I emailed the company and asked what that messege ment. This is the reply I received from them.
''Normally that messege is indicating that the Slam switch has been detected on the game. It will come up at game start,because it was ignoring the switch until then. Let's start with looking at the Slam circuity for the game, on the front door, and the ball roll tilt.''
I emailed back telling him more about the issue but I'm confused why the Slam switch is still an issue because I bought this board because it states the board will disable and ignore the slam switch common issues?
Make sure you keep the old board, odds are nothing wrong with it.
I might be free this weekend if you need it looked at for a few bucks, live down by the casinos.
Quoted from gdonovan:Make sure you keep the old board, odds are nothing wrong with it.
I might be free this weekend if you need it looked at for a few bucks, live down by the casinos.
I'll gladly pay you to fix this . I've had this machine for three weeks and have not been to play it once.
Quoted from Jasenwm:I emailed the company and asked what that messege ment. This is the reply I received from them.
''Normally that messege is indicating that the Slam switch has been detected on the game. It will come up at game start,because it was ignoring the switch until then. Let's start with looking at the Slam circuity for the game, on the front door, and the ball roll tilt.''
I emailed back telling him more about the issue but I'm confused why the Slam switch is still an issue because I bought this board because it states the board will disable and ignore the slam switch common issues?
Ok, that makes sense. Your door slam switch is open. It usually is the slam switch. I know you said you checked it but we need to revisit that. Get a couple alligator clips and solder them onto a wire. With power off put one clip on each of the terminals of the slam switch and turn the game back on. Does the error go away? If not, the next place to look is at the wire harness by the hinge of the coin door. It is likely you have a broken wire and that wire is one of the two going to your slam switch. Report back your findings. By the way, does the game play yet with he new board?
image (resized).jpgQuoted from Jasenwm:I emailed the company and asked what that messege ment. This is the reply I received from them.
''Normally that messege is indicating that the Slam switch has been detected on the game. It will come up at game start,because it was ignoring the switch until then. Let's start with looking at the Slam circuity for the game, on the front door, and the ball roll tilt.''
I emailed back telling him more about the issue but I'm confused why the Slam switch is still an issue because I bought this board because it states the board will disable and ignore the slam switch common issues?
The next thing we are going to look at is this cable. The pins are always shot on this and very obsolete. Is yours still the original with original pins?
20200604_074002 (resized).jpgQuoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:Ok, that makes sense. Your door slam switch is open. It usually is the slam switch. I know you said you checked it but we need to revisit that. Get a couple alligator clips and solder them onto a wire. With power off put one clip on each of the terminals of the slam switch and turn the game back on. Does the error go away? If not, the next place to look is at the wire harness by the hinge of the coin door. It is likely you have a broken wire and that wire is one of the two going to your slam switch. Report back your findings. By the way, does the game play yet with he new board?[quoted image]
The diffrence with the new board is when I attempt to play a game the machine kicks the ball out to the shooting lane like normal. After then I get the bad one error. With the original board the game would take a credit away when you attempt to play a game that's it. So we are getting closer. I'll try what you suggested.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:The next thing we are going to look at is this cable. The pins are always shot on this and very obsolete. Is yours still the original with original pins?
[quoted image]
I think it is the original but someone did the ground mod on it
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:Ok, that makes sense. Your door slam switch is open. It usually is the slam switch. I know you said you checked it but we need to revisit that. Get a couple alligator clips and solder them onto a wire. With power off put one clip on each of the terminals of the slam switch and turn the game back on. Does the error go away? If not, the next place to look is at the wire harness by the hinge of the coin door. It is likely you have a broken wire and that wire is one of the two going to your slam switch. Report back your findings. By the way, does the game play yet with he new board?[quoted image]
With this new CPU it says in the discription one of the features is it ignores the slam switch error. If it is bypassing that wouldn't it take the slam switch out of play?
Quoted from Jasenwm:With this new CPU it says in the discription one of the features is it ignores the slam switch error. If it is bypassing that wouldn't it take the slam switch out of play?
It does take it out of play but still detects it as being a problem. It looks like it needs repaired for the error to go away. Do you have a source for the pins that the double sided edge connectors take? They are different than the other edge connector on the game. I can make you one with all NOS parts but it isn’t going to be cheap I’m afraid. Your looking at $95 shipped. I only have few hundred pins left and each cable takes around 70 to make. Also, Do you know for a fact your driver board is good? Were you able to test it in your other game?
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:It does take it out of play but still detects it as being a problem. It looks like it needs repaired for the error to go away. Do you have a source for the pins that the double sided edge connectors take? They are different than the other edge connector on the game. I can make you one with all NOS parts but it isn’t going to be cheap I’m afraid. Your looking at $95 shipped. I only have few hundred pins left and each cable takes around 70 to make. Also, Do you know for a fact your driver board is good? Were you able to test it in your other game?
The game worked fine when I played at the sellers house, no I haven't tested the driver board. Yeah I'm in for the new harness let me know.
Quoted from Jasenwm:The game worked fine when I played at the sellers house, no I haven't tested the driver board. Yeah I'm in for the new harness let me know.
I'd stop throwing money at it for the moment and get a meter and trace out the slam switch wiring. Continuity testing would go a long way towards solving your problem.
While I've heard good things about the NiWumph boards and I love the added features, it's a totally different system and a lot of those features are all dependent on the internal setting via the sub menus on the board (from what I remember).
Try doing this modification on your original board and pop it back in and see if it changes anything.
https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Slam_Switch_Modification
Quoted from radial_head:While I've heard good things about the NiWumph boards and I love the added features, it's a totally different system and a lot of those features are all dependent on the internal setting via the sub menus on the board (from what I remember).
Try doing this modification on your original board and pop it back in and see if it changes anything.
https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Slam_Switch_Modification
Bypassing the problem isn’t fixing it. This can be done after it gets sorted out. We need to find the problem first.
Quoted from Jasenwm:The game worked fine when I played at the sellers house, no I haven't tested the driver board. Yeah I'm in for the new harness let me know.
Ok, this is good news. We are getting closer. It is possible a board failed during the move but I think the mostly likely problem is the pins after the slam switch gets sorted. Did you remove the head for transport? If so, it is very likely the problem pin(s) is in one of the connectors removed to move the game.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:Ok, this is good news. We are getting closer. It is possible a board failed during the move but I think the mostly likely problem is the pins after the slam switch gets sorted. Did you remove the head for transport? If so, it is very likely the problem pin(s) is in one of the connectors removed to move the game.
Yeah I had to remove the head when I transported it
Quoted from Jasenwm:Yeah I had to remove the head when I transported it
Unplug all board edge connectors (CPU/driver/etc). Lightly tap them on a hard surface. Maybe a terminal broke a blade off and its sitting in the bottom of one of the connectors. Then use a flashlight and really look into the connectors. Do the terminals still all look good and shiny with decent amount of good tension capability? If terminal blade only spans about half the gap of the connector, they probably need repined. If gross, definitely re-pin.
Ball trough switch sounds like it's working... a ball is being kicked out in the lane.
Do you have all 3 balls in the game & in the trough?
Sounds to me like the ball kicking into the lane at game start is enough of a jolt to get it to slam tilt.
+1 on the temporary check with the wire & alligator clips to create continuity between the two blades of the coin door slam switch.
Had & solved that exact issue with my MGOW. I confirmed with wire & alligator clips. Cleaning the switch wasn't enough. I had to loosen the switch, adjust the blades a bit to get good continuity at a different spot on the contact, then tighten the switch back down.
Quoted from REGNE:Do you have all 3 balls in the game & in the trough?
Haunted House is a 1 ball game.
Quoted from REGNE:+1 on the temporary check with the wire & alligator clips to create continuity between the two blades of the coin door slam switch.
Also +1 here.
Quoted from REGNE:Unplug all board edge connectors (CPU/driver/etc). Lightly tap them on a hard surface. Maybe a terminal broke a blade off and its sitting in the bottom of one of the connectors. Then use a flashlight and really look into the connectors. Do the terminals still all look good and shiny with decent amount of good tension capability? If terminal blade only spans about half the gap of the connector, they probably need repined. If gross, definitely re-pin.
I hear this trick referred to often on Sys1 games, but the battery corrosion issue on this particular connector are less common on sys80 games. Sys1 the pins would get all corroded and would fall out easily because they were directly under the battery. Not so on the Sys80 interconnect. Usually they just become weak and not making strong contact. Also keep in mind that if you're willing to DIY it, Docent Electronics still sells pin and wire kits that are all crimped and ready to just remove and repin yourself, if you can get past the website that hasn't been redesigned since 1999.
So we're SO close!! I adjusted the slam switch so it stayed closed and before I did anything else I wanted to see if that did anything. I turned the game and it powers up, I press start it kicks the ball out like it was doing but this time everything actually works on the playfield. Bumpers kick the ball all the normal functions except no sound? I let the ball drain and start another game. I was able to start three games until I got the BAD ONE code again and the game went back to not doing anything.
Quoted from Jasenwm:So we're SO close!! I adjusted the slam switch so it stayed closed and before I did anything else I wanted to see if that did anything. I turned the game and it powers up, I press start it kicks the ball out like it was doing but this time everything actually works on the playfield. Bumpers kick the ball all the normal functions except no sound? I let the ball drain and start another game. I was able to start three games until I got the BAD ONE code again and the game went back to not doing anything.
Progress, I like it. First rule of System 80 - always check the slam switch. Sand the contacts on that slam switch with 1000 grit or higher to shine them up and then try to increase the tension so it is a hard closed switch. That should make your error go away. If you heard sound before the pins probably just need replaced. I believe that is the A1 J5 connector.
Quoted from radial_head:Haunted House is a 1 ball game.
Ah. My mistake. Sorry guys. Yes, one ball game.
Quoted from Jasenwm:So we're SO close!!
If you don’t have alligator clip/wire.
Solder a freakin wire between the two wire terminals on the slam switch, and play all night and all day tomorrow.
So I'm still dealing with a sound issue on my HH, and I noticed there is no A3J6 connector attached to my driver board. Does this game not use this connector? It appears it is referenced in the schematic on page 26. (it is not shown in the picture several messages above)
Quoted from TZ:So I'm still dealing with a sound issue on my HH, and I noticed there is no A3J6 connector attached to my driver board. Does this game not use this connector? It appears it is referenced in the schematic on page 26. (it is not shown in the picture several messages above)
Correct - not used on HH. Sound problems are usually pins or capacitors.
Hi Everybody! I recently got a Haunted House and I went through it and cleaned up some wiring and though I broke it a few times but of course it was always connector issues.
Anyway I just started playing it and a few switches need cleaning etc. but I am noticing the game is practically flat.
Question about the playfield angle. I have the front levelers all the way in and the back 3" all the way up and I put the backs on some 2 x4s and it is still not steep enough. All my legs are the same length. I don't know what the heck is going on. Am I missing something?
What do you guys have the angle set at? I am still less than 6 degrees even with all this lift in the back.
I am going to jack it up some more but this is getting ridiculous.
Quoted from QuietEarp:Hi Everybody! I recently got a Haunted House and I went through it and cleaned up some wiring and though I broke it a few times but of course it was always connector issues.
Anyway I just started playing it and a few switches need cleaning etc. but I am noticing the game is practically flat.
Question about the playfield angle. I have the front levelers all the way in and the back 3" all the way up and I put the backs on some 2 x4s and it is still not steep enough. All my legs are the same length. I don't know what the heck is going on. Am I missing something?
What do you guys have the angle set at? I am still less than 6 degrees even with all this lift in the back.
I am going to jack it up some more but this is getting ridiculous.
The game should have 27 1/2" legs on the front and 31" in the rear. They don't make the Gottlieb 27 1/2" ones anymore so you'll have to go with the 27" ones. Get the correct set from Steve at the Pinball Resource.
31" in the rear! Makes sense! Thanks!
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:The game should have 27 1/2" legs on the front and 31" in the rear. They don't make the Gottlieb 27 1/2" ones anymore so you'll have to go with the 27" ones. Get the correct set from Steve at the Pinball Resource.
Just got a PBR order so I think I will stick with the wood in the back for now. I inquired about the shipping cost for legs as I was going to get a new set. I am glad I held off because I would have 4 more 27" legs and would be mad at myself!
Good to know that I am not crazy. If they ever have any more pinball shows I have something to hunt for too!
Just cleaned some switches and adjusted some flippers. Let's play some Haunted House!
Adding on to the leg height discussion, are Black Hole and Haunted House supposed to be this same height? I would assume the answer is no due to the legs, but I just imagined that all the games from the same series would be designed to look nice in a lineup...
Or rather my aesthetic OCD is really taking hold.
Quoted from radial_head:Adding on to the leg height discussion, are Black Hole and Haunted House supposed to be this game height? I would assume the answer is no due to the legs, but I just imagined that all the games from the same series would be designed to look nice in a lineup...
Or rather my aesthetic OCD is really taking hold.
Odd as it may seem, BH uses 27" on all 4. HH uses the 31" in the back.
Well, I drank a bunch of beer and played a bunch of Haunted House last night! This is a pretty amazing game. My HH playfield is pretty worn and has severe planking. I got super excited when I saw a semi decent main playfield on ebay so I bought it expecting to do a PF swap sometime.
After playing it last night and seeing it all lit up I am thinking that the planking and wear on the PF kind of works with this machine aesthetically. It does not bother me at all and I actually like it!
I am stoked to be part of the club!
Quoted from QuietEarp:Well, I drank a bunch of beer and played a bunch of Haunted House last night! This is a pretty amazing game. My HH playfield is pretty worn and has severe planking. I got super excited when I saw a semi decent main playfield on ebay so I bought it expecting to do a PF swap sometime.
After playing it last night and seeing it all lit up I am thinking that the planking and wear on the PF kind of works with this machine aesthetically. It does not bother me at all and I actually like it!
I am stoked to be part of the club!
I agree. Its the playfield wear that bothers me the least. Also a game that I really believe NEEDS the incandescents to make it feel like an old house. I also keep reminding myself that Mirco makes good repros if I ever want to do a FULL overhaul of it, cabinet glass and playfield.
Finally, after a year of this game showing up DOA and only now getting it into my place and out of storage to work on it, IT’S ALIVE!!!
Working out the kinks now:
1.) Lower pop bumper blows its fuse every time.
2.) Playfield window looks like it was part of a horrible DIY job... totally mishapen
3.) The ball launch gate above the three holes is pretty tight and if you soft plunge, the ball gets stuck.
F3775625-4C91-4D33-B105-18C7530FAB1A (resized).jpegIs the window on this game supposed to be green or clear? Mine is clear and looks like someone DIY'd a replacement at one point. Marco has new windows in stock so thinking of picking one up...
Quoted from radial_head:Is the window on this game supposed to be green or clear? Mine is clear and looks like someone DIY'd a replacement at one point. Marco has new windows in stock so thinking of picking one up...
Haunted House is Green and Black Hole is blue.
Alright so I've run into a bit of a problem with my Haunted House. The lower left pop bumper does not work. Blows a fuse immediately upon engaging as does the diode. Here's what I've found out so far and I'm hoping one of you know what's going on.
All of the PBDB are modified and working properly. When swap the boards, the lower left is still the issue.
The pop bumper works fine once, but MAYBE twice if I'm lucky.
The fuse is the proper 2.5A Slow Blow (and still busts when a 3A is put in).
The diode tests open in both directions after one firing.
The coil is a 4893, NOT the 1496 as prescribed in the manual.
The 38V+ wire seems to be in tact and gets good continuity from bridge rectifier to coil.
I've read plenty of people trying to change their pop bumper coils to 4893 to give them "more pop" which is ridiculous, but seems common enough. Would that be the supposed issue at hand or should I do some more digging into the wiring harness to see if something isn't rubbing right?
Quoted from radial_head:Alright so I've run into a bit of a problem with my Haunted House. The lower left pop bumper does not work. Blows a fuse immediately upon engaging as does the diode. Here's what I've found out so far and I'm hoping one of you know what's going on.
All of the PBDB are modified and working properly. When swap the boards, the lower left is still the issue.
The pop bumper works fine once, but MAYBE twice if I'm lucky.
The fuse is the proper 2.5A Slow Blow (and still busts when a 3A is put in).
The diode tests open in both directions after one firing.
The coil is a 4893, NOT the 1496 as prescribed in the manual.
The 38V+ wire seems to be in tact and gets good continuity from bridge rectifier to coil.
I've read plenty of people trying to change their pop bumper coils to 4893 to give them "more pop" which is ridiculous, but seems common enough. Would that be the supposed issue at hand or should I do some more digging into the wiring harness to see if something isn't rubbing right?
At this point I would just swap coils with a known good one. It might just be a bad coil. If the problem persists you have at least narrowed your search. My next guess would be the bridge rectifier.
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