(Topic ID: 143518)

Haunted House Club: The Beautiful Beast


By davebart5

4 years ago



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#901 3 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Rolled the dice and purchased these, 4 very nice green filters and 4 working 7 digit displays
One was a little dim, hit it with 6.3 volts for 4 minutes and its daisy fresh again.[quoted image]

Well hey, at least you got four green covers!

Do the Pascal PI-80 boards allow for 7 digit connectors to be used without modification or do you need to modify the boards/connectors too?

#902 3 months ago

Now that I think back, doesn't the change to multiball include a change the score to 7 digit based on the board that is used?

#903 3 months ago
Quoted from Zablon:

Now that I think back, doesn't the change to multiball include a change the score to 7 digit based on the board that is used?

I don't believe that the multi ball modifications requires a 7 digit display, no. But I DO know that if you want 7 digit displays with the original board, it's so much work that it is absolutely not worth it.

#904 3 months ago
Quoted from Zablon:

So these are not HH displays, but they have the filters?

They are not 6 digit displays but have green, not blue filters.

#905 3 months ago
Quoted from radial_head:

Well hey, at least you got four green covers!
Do the Pascal PI-80 boards allow for 7 digit connectors to be used without modification or do you need to modify the boards/connectors too?

I have 4 operating spares for my Alien Star I just finished rebuilding a display on! I was looking at the purchase as a whole to have spares or at worst have glass and I.C. that could be scavenged.

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#906 3 months ago
Quoted from radial_head:

I don't believe that the multi ball modifications requires a 7 digit display, no. But I DO know that if you want 7 digit displays with the original board, it's so much work that it is absolutely not worth it.

It really isn't that hard, there is a write on the board here how to do.

#907 3 months ago
Quoted from SpotsGotcha:

Pulling the connector, shoving the meter probes into connector and then putting back must have done something.
I have sound.

On my brother-in-laws Caveman we found that only way to get sound was to power up the pin then unplug/plug in sound board. His SC-01 soon went out so I don't advise unplug/plug in with power on method. Recapped and bought a NOS SC-01 and all good. With HH at least you don't have to worry about the SC-01.

I recommend changing the electrolytic caps on the sound board.

#908 3 months ago
Quoted from radial_head:

Regularly people will test to see if potentiometers are logarithmic or linear by connecting the middle and one of the outer tabs with one prong of the DMM and the last outer tab with another prong of the DMM. If you turn the knob, you should see a difference. If you put a prong to both of the outer tabs, you should she the total resistance of the potentiometer no matter what position its in.
So I cross reference Black Hole and Haunted House together pretty frequently (I have both) and the audio section is where things start to differ ever so slightly. However, both potentiometers are supposed to be 100ohms (though the stock wattage of each resistor is questionable). The x10k meter is maybe a little high for a 100ohm resistor so that might make the reading not change all that much. Check it on the 100 ohm setting.

Update. Since I am in restoration mode, so to speak, I went ahead and got two replacement speakers and 4 Pop Bumper replacement cards (separate task). Once they arrive I will be diving in. I see no option other than clipping the wire ties and tracing the speaker wires as you suggested early on. I have tried to stay away from cutting the wire bundles loose but I think that is the best approach. Have you ever tried to spot check a set of wires without cutting all the wire ties? I suspect there is a way for me to spot check the wire itself along the path and then strategically cut the ties loose. Any thoughts on this are appreciated as always.

#909 3 months ago

I've had luck with just thumbing through the wire bundles and keeping track of my wire colors. They should all be properly labeled and their placement should be described pretty well in the manual. I keep a little print out of the color coding taped on the inside of my games : )

I would highly recommend taking the volume pot out of the machine and giving it a good spray of deoxit and popping it back in (never do this inside of a game) or just buying a new pot (cheaper than buying deoxit).

#910 3 months ago
Quoted from REGNE:

On my brother-in-laws Caveman we found that only way to get sound was to power up the pin then unplug/plug in sound board. His SC-01 soon went out so I don't advise unplug/plug in with power on method. Recapped and bought a NOS SC-01 and all good. With HH at least you don't have to worry about the SC-01.
I recommend changing the electrolytic caps on the sound board.

The SC-01 is usually a pretty robust chip. However any overvoltage or reverse voltage will kill that chip. I would NOT recommend unplugging and plugging in power to any sound card with an SC-01 on it. Same goes for the display panels. No unplugging or plugging those on with the power on.

#911 3 months ago
Quoted from radial_head:

I've had luck with just thumbing through the wire bundles and keeping track of my wire colors. They should all be properly labeled and their placement should be described pretty well in the manual. I keep a little print out of the color coding taped on the inside of my games : )
I would highly recommend taking the volume pot out of the machine and giving it a good spray of deoxit and popping it back in (never do this inside of a game) or just buying a new pot (cheaper than buying deoxit).

OK.. I replaced all pop bumper cards with new Rottendog versions at $17/ea. When pulling the old boards there was a whitish residue on the screws and around the boards. Wonder what this may be from? At least with test switches and an LED on the cards I can immediately tell they are not getting power. Bundle cutting will begin since my ability to finger through them is almost non existent since there are Zip Ties are about every few inches so it is a very tight bundle, but I did spot three damaged wires that look like they may have gotten some heat at some point, but they do not appear to be broken. When I get back to this on Sunday, I will start clipping and tracing wires. It almost feels like if I am in for a penny I am in for a pound, meaning that I will start tracing pop bumper wires but since bundle will be cut ALL wires will be inspected. I have been truly avoiding this. I wonder if there are complete sets of replacement harnesses that could be purchased just to save time spot checking and simply hardening the entire machine by making sure the wire harnesses are as new as the boards they connect and since I am dealing with both pop bumper boards and sound it may be inevitable. Will try to be strategic this first go at it but I may just jump in for all its worth if I keep playing "whack a mole". Building all new harnesses from scratch is a daunting task that will challenge my abilities, to be honest.

#912 3 months ago
Quoted from SpotsGotcha:

OK.. I replaced all pop bumper cards with new Rottendog versions at $17/ea. When pulling the old boards there was a whitish residue on the screws and around the boards. Wonder what this may be from? At least with test switches and an LED on the cards I can immediately tell they are not getting power. Bundle cutting will begin since my ability to finger through them is almost non existent since there are Zip Ties are about every few inches so it is a very tight bundle, but I did spot three damaged wires that look like they may have gotten some heat at some point, but they do not appear to be broken. When I get back to this on Sunday, I will start clipping and tracing wires. It almost feels like if I am in for a penny I am in for a pound, meaning that I will start tracing pop bumper wires but since bundle will be cut ALL wires will be inspected. I have been truly avoiding this. I wonder if there are complete sets of replacement harnesses that could be purchased just to save time spot checking and simply hardening the entire machine by making sure the wire harnesses are as new as the boards they connect and since I am dealing with both pop bumper boards and sound it may be inevitable. Will try to be strategic this first go at it but I may just jump in for all its worth if I keep playing "whack a mole". Building all new harnesses from scratch is a daunting task that will challenge my abilities, to be honest.

Even if they did make new wiring harnesses, you wouldn't want to get a whole new harness for something like this. There are about 4 million tabs to solder and unsolder, 900 connectors to repin, and a million headaches and bottles of beer waiting for you. The only time you'd want a full wire harness change is if you have BIG issues with your wires (say a family of mice had their way with them for 10 years in a barn somewhere). Not sure about that white powder (didn't get left behind by some hooligan now did it?) but I would be impressed if it was battery corrosion somehow and if it was, I think you'd have some bigger problems on your hands. Could have been from leaky caps maybe, but I'd also be impressed about that too. I wouldn't worry too much about it.

Let me preface this: I don't have a Haunted House at my apartment, just a Black Hole right now but the way I understand it, they are pretty similar under the hood so let me break this down:

•Does the Pascal board work? That means you're getting proper input voltages from the bridge rectifiers and transformers (I think there should be a 5vdc+ LED indicator somewhere on the board). Is there proper 5vdc present on the pascal board? (Yes? Go to next step, No? check your bridge rectifiers, but like, if the answer is no your game probably wouldn't have started)

•Check continuity from Pin 18 of A1J6 and pin 5 of one of the pop bumper connectors. Any buzz? (Yes? Skip to bottom, No? go to next step)

•On Black Hole, the pop bumpers get powered (I think, please someone correct me if I'm wrong I'm just putting stuff together from the schematic and a different game) all the pop bumpers get power from pin 18 from connector A1J6. There should be a hub (or maybe a few) that connects all the 5vdc+ from the pop bumpers to Pin 18 of A1J6 and I'm assuming it's towards the top of the playfield (or rather, the side of the playfield near the shooter lane curve and upstairs playfield). Make sure that there is continuity from that hub and Pin 18 of A1J6 to this hub. See if you see any stray Blue Slate Slate wires (the color code for the 5vdc+ on the pop bumpers).

•Pin 5 of every pop bumper connector (at least on the upper playfield, unsure about the lower playfield) should have continuity. Test from board to board. If they all have continuity, they are connected properly to the hub.

Check those things and get back to me. If there's continuity, you've got me stumped too other than somehwere along the line, maybe there's a stray wire that's grounding the whole lot. I should have some alone time to go to my parents house where Haunted House is sitting, unplugged and unloved, and snap some pictures for you.

#913 3 months ago

Ooooooo additionally it could be that there is something wrong with your AC voltage going into the pop bumpers too, but if I recall correctly, the upstairs and downstairs pop bumpers run on 24Vac and the Main playfield runs on 38Vac... seems unlikely that they’d all be bad. Also not sure how those Rottendog Test LEDs work, but I’m assuming if the board was working, even if the AC voltages were bad, the led would still light when you hit the test button.

#914 3 months ago
Quoted from radial_head:

Ooooooo additionally it could be that there is something wrong with your AC voltage going into the pop bumpers too, but if I recall correctly, the upstairs and downstairs pop bumpers run on 24Vac and the Main playfield runs on 38Vac... seems unlikely that they’d all be bad. Also not sure how those Rottendog Test LEDs work, but I’m assuming if the board was working, even if the AC voltages were bad, the led would still light when you hit the test button.

Huge thanks for your assistance. The Pascal board lights all look good and everything else is working, other than sound and pop bumpers, so I am assuming all is good there. Yea the harness whining was only temporary. Knew I would be diving into the wiring runs for both the pop bumpers and speakers sooner or later. Will carve out some time tonight to do some voltage checks from voltage into board through to pop bumper boards. I know I see a few wires frayed above the bottom left pop bumper board. I am going to resolve pop bumpers first and then get back to sound. I will be ordering a new potentiometer anyway, just to eliminate that from the equation. Given the way it sounded weird when I was adjusting volume, when sound did work, I suspect it is defective or at least ready for a new replacement. Will update later on tonight.

#915 3 months ago
Quoted from SpotsGotcha:

I know I see a few wires frayed above the bottom left pop bumper board.

Can you snap a quick photo of the wires with context (surrounding boards/associated plugs) and we may be able to help you further.

#916 3 months ago

Blowin up the fibre connection but..
pics 1- 5 show back of cabinet with PI-80 board, the original sound card and new aux power for sound cards. The Power LEDs on PI-80 indicate power and cpu light is flashing. Indicators look good. Bottom orange LED is a bit dimmer. Not sure brightness indicates anything though.

Rest of pics show each connection to the board. Pascal boards are very well documented on the board. Connectors show their original value but they all connect directly into one board eliminating the power, controller and driver boards. I still have to use the original sound and aux power for sound cards from original game. The pain in the ass connector between driver board and controller board was eliminated. Should note the large connectors normally on the right side of the old controller board are the ones without tags.. they are inverted to connect to board.

The original power board is still hanging in the cabinet but it is not connected to anything. Just haven't worried about pulling it yet.
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#917 3 months ago
Quoted from radial_head:

Even if they did make new wiring harnesses, you wouldn't want to get a whole new harness for something like this. There are about 4 million tabs to solder and unsolder, 900 connectors to repin, and a million headaches and bottles of beer waiting for you. The only time you'd want a full wire harness change is if you have BIG issues with your wires (say a family of mice had their way with them for 10 years in a barn somewhere). Not sure about that white powder (didn't get left behind by some hooligan now did it?) but I would be impressed if it was battery corrosion somehow and if it was, I think you'd have some bigger problems on your hands. Could have been from leaky caps maybe, but I'd also be impressed about that too. I wouldn't worry too much about it.
Let me preface this: I don't have a Haunted House at my apartment, just a Black Hole right now but the way I understand it, they are pretty similar under the hood so let me break this down:
•Does the Pascal board work? That means you're getting proper input voltages from the bridge rectifiers and transformers (I think there should be a 5vdc+ LED indicator somewhere on the board). Is there proper 5vdc present on the pascal board? (Yes? Go to next step, No? check your bridge rectifiers, but like, if the answer is no your game probably wouldn't have started)
•Check continuity from Pin 18 of A1J6 and pin 5 of one of the pop bumper connectors. Any buzz? (Yes? Skip to bottom, No? go to next step)
•On Black Hole, the pop bumpers get powered (I think, please someone correct me if I'm wrong I'm just putting stuff together from the schematic and a different game) all the pop bumpers get power from pin 18 from connector A1J6. There should be a hub (or maybe a few) that connects all the 5vdc+ from the pop bumpers to Pin 18 of A1J6 and I'm assuming it's towards the top of the playfield (or rather, the side of the playfield near the shooter lane curve and upstairs playfield). Make sure that there is continuity from that hub and Pin 18 of A1J6 to this hub. See if you see any stray Blue Slate Slate wires (the color code for the 5vdc+ on the pop bumpers).
•Pin 5 of every pop bumper connector (at least on the upper playfield, unsure about the lower playfield) should have continuity. Test from board to board. If they all have continuity, they are connected properly to the hub.
Check those things and get back to me. If there's continuity, you've got me stumped too other than somehwere along the line, maybe there's a stray wire that's grounding the whole lot. I should have some alone time to go to my parents house where Haunted House is sitting, unplugged and unloved, and snap some pictures for you.

Well now.. I pulled the A1J6 connector. Uploading pictures. May have found my pop bumper problem.. No dangling wire.. weird. It appears to be missing the power wire.

Nevermind.. just because a pin is in there doesnt mean a wire was supposed to go in it. ... All wires look complete along harness
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#918 3 months ago

You said that there were some frayed/burnt wires? Not seeing them.

#919 3 months ago
Quoted from radial_head:

You said that there were some frayed/burnt wires? Not seeing them.

Aw.. Sorry.. thought we were following up on the A1J6 connector testing. Here are the frayed wires..

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#920 3 months ago

It seems that someone has already repined your A1J6 and A1J5, Triple check that all those wires are making proper contact (to me they look to be crimped a little too early and are missing the wire tubing and just double crimped onto the stranded wire, which I try to avoid).

Please do the continuity test I walked you through my previous posts.

#921 3 months ago
Quoted from radial_head:

It seems that someone has already repined your A1J6 and A1J5, Triple check that all those wires are making proper contact (to me they look to be crimped a little too early and are missing the wire tubing and just double crimped onto the stranded wire, which I try to avoid).
Please do the continuity test I walked you through my previous posts.

Will do. Given all 4 pop bumpers are not working and none of them are showing a lit LED on the cards, would that direct me toward power being the likely culprit. It does not appear these are wired in sequence making them vulnerable to a single point of failure other than power. If all 4 are out then either all the connectors are poorly crimped or power supplied to all 4 is the root cause. Will do a full check on connectors tonight... assuming my wife does not pull my chain to watch another romantic comedy or murder mystery tonight.

The continuity check will help direct me further.

Thanks again for your help.

#922 3 months ago

Did the VUK fix, works just fine!
However since then I lost the GI on the upper playfield :-s
F6 is fine.
Any idea what I should look for?

#923 3 months ago

Nevermind, solved.
Had 2 broken leafs on the relays below the PF

1 week later
#924 3 months ago

Hi Guys

I have just got a HH as a project. Looking at all options for the playfield as it does have some wear. Has anyone colour matched the playfield. I have used an app to match to the nearest RAL but its slightly off each colour I think.

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#925 3 months ago
Quoted from vulcan903:

Hi Guys
I have just got a HH as a project. Looking at all options for the playfield as it does have some wear. Has anyone colour matched the playfield. I have used an app to match to the nearest RAL but its slightly off each colour I think.

Do you mean color matched for playfield touchups?

The only matched color is the one that you mix yourself they say.

#926 3 months ago
Quoted from radial_head:

Do you mean color matched for playfield touchups?
The only matched color is the one that you mix yourself they say.

Yep, got some wear in high traffic areas so, I can either touch up or go for the big option and get new playfields

#927 3 months ago
Quoted from vulcan903:

Yep, got some wear in high traffic areas so, I can either touch up or go for the big option and get new playfields

My HH playfield has some pretty intense wear as well here and there, but I'm going to cut my teeth on some other play fields before I try and do any restoration on my HH. I'll keep my eyes peeled if anybody has some color suggestions!

#928 89 days ago

I was playing my beautiful beast this past week before virtual club meeting. Take a look.

https://www.twitch.tv/videos/588801634

#929 89 days ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I was playing my beautiful beast this past week before virtual club meeting. Take a look.
https://www.twitch.tv/videos/588801634

Ha! Love the tilt bob cam! Very inventive.

3 weeks later
#930 67 days ago

ebay.com link

If anybody is missing the green covers.

#931 66 days ago

Hello everyone, I’m selling my Addams family for a change up and buying a Haunted House Monday! This will be my first solid state Gottlieb, only owned EM Gottlieb pins so far. Is there anything key to look for and or upgrades needed for reliability? Not sure if anything has been done to this one. I will be contacting PBresouce for new manuals as soon as I get the pin. Do the manuals have service bulletins such as upgraded coils etc? I heard the coil for the cellar VUK should be upgraded like the one on black hole to keep it reliable.

Thank you!

#932 65 days ago

Question about my GI lights which stopped working: I wiggled a lamp socket on one of the coin door lights to get it working. Then I looked up and all the GI lights on the main and upper playfield and pop bumper lights are suddenly out. They were working just prior to this. (Lower playfield lights, back box, and inserts all still work). I thought maybe I shorted a coin door lamp wire to ground or something. All fuses check okay. I even swapped out the driver board but that didn't solve the problem. What else should I check?

#933 64 days ago

Okay - problem solved. Thanks for the help from Completist. It was the "U" relay. Specifically, the switching blades furthest in the back on the right underside of the playfield. It was just a hair out of gap, plus probably dirty. The metal on those is really fatigued and the spring-back action is failing. What an awful design. So many things can go wrong in this section. These blades should ideally be replaced with fresh ones to make the machine reliable for the long term. Otherwise the contact corrosion and inability to be stiff and spring together with good contact will always cause random failures.

I'm enclosing photos. If you look at the one with my fingers, I'm touching the tip of a small screwdriver against the exact blade that was failing to make contact and causing the GI to not work.. The blade looks bent up like someone had messed with it before.

I know the Gottlieb experts consider this old news, but for people who are just getting their first System 80 like me, this is an Ah Ha! moment. : )

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#934 63 days ago

I picked up my Haunted House yesterday! Game works as it should from what I can tell, minus a few light out, however after really looking at the game I found a couple issues. First there is was only 1 speaker connected, the left one. I do not see any other wires from the wire bundle that would hook up to the right speaker, it looks like per the wiring diagram they are just daisy chained together? So positive wire should go into the left speaker + end, run a jumper from the left negative to the positive on the R/H speaker and the negative to ground? If the left is blown and that is why it was not connected, can any 4 ohm 6 inch or is it 6.5 inch speaker work? Per the print it says they are 3 watts each, not knowing much about speaker, if you use a 20 watt or so speaker, this is bad?????

Thank you,

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#935 63 days ago

I also have what appears to be a broken or cut wire at “O” really at the back right side of the mid playfield. Game seems to play fine,
Not sure if this wire is no longer used,
Or is it supposed to be attached to one of the switches. Odd. The switches look they all have soldered connections with how broken off wires.

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#936 63 days ago

Honored to be part of the haunted house club! Played the machine before I bought it it played great. Remove the head for moving purposes, get it home set it up and boom! It works fine except it won't play a game. I spent a week trying to figure it out finally I Hire a tech who is coming to fix it. I'm guessing a easy fix which honestly make me more pissed how I can't figure it out. Anyway this machine is in excellent condition with almost all new coils and serviced boards. Hopefully I can get it working

1 week later
#937 54 days ago
Quoted from Jasenwm:

I can get it working

I hope you can figure it out. Dumb question, but are there credits on the game? I’m new as well to the solid state Gottlieb world, but I’ve read the 1980s games don’t have free play unless you jumper wires. Might just need to put in a quarter?

#938 54 days ago

My new game is all polished, new LEDs , Titan colored rubbers, target stickers and new cellar window. Eventually I’d like to upgrade the speakers, any suggestions?

Plus, one wire is off near the relay “o”under the aft area of the mid playfield but the game plays great. Can’t see tell that I was was ever connected. Can someone please post a pick of the relays under the playfield so I can verify what should be connected? Former owner replaced a lot of boards and did numerous ground mods and safety precautions to keep it reliable and im not sure if this was intentional.

Thank you

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#939 53 days ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

I hope you can figure it out. Dumb question, but are there credits on the game? I’m new as well to the solid state Gottlieb world, but I’ve read the 1980s games don’t have free play unless you jumper wires. Might just need to put in a quarter?

In the door settings just adjust the score based award low like 50k to award a credit. Works great.

#940 48 days ago

Someone come and fix my haunted house I'll pay you $$$$$ it's driving me crazy!!!

#941 48 days ago
Quoted from Jasenwm:

Someone come and fix my haunted house I'll pay you $$$$$ it's driving me crazy!!!

If I was not up to my eyeballs in projects right now I'd help! Whats going on?

#942 48 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

If I was not up to my eyeballs in projects right now I'd help! Whats going on?

So I played this at the sellers house and it worked fine. I removed the head to transport it. I get it home reconnect everything. It turns on all lights work and goes into attract mode coins up but when I push start to start a game it just takes a credit away and won't start a game? I've checked the connectors and tried everything I can think of. I'm thinking it's a connection or the slam switch? Idk I'm out of ideas

#943 48 days ago
Quoted from Jasenwm:

So I played this at the sellers house and it worked fine. I removed the head to transport it. I get it home reconnect everything. It turns on all lights work and goes into attract mode coins up but when I push start to start a game it just takes a credit away and won't start a game? I've checked the connectors and tried everything I can think of. I'm thinking it's a connection or the slam switch? Idk I'm out of ideas

The slam switch should be closed on old Gottliebs. Tone it out with your Multimeter and see if it really is closed. The problem child is usually the one on the door. Jumper it if you have to. Also make sure there is a ball in the ball trough.

#944 48 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

The slam switch should be closed on old Gottliebs. Tone it out with your Multimeter and see if it really is closed. The problem child is usually the one on the door. Jumper it if you have to. Also make sure there is a ball in the ball trough.

I was thinking of buying a new cpu for free play and it would take away the slam switch all together

#945 48 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

The slam switch should be closed on old Gottliebs. Tone it out with your Multimeter and see if it really is closed. The problem child is usually the one on the door. Jumper it if you have to. Also make sure there is a ball in the ball trough.

Would not be booting I think.

#946 48 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Would not be booting I think.

It will boot but the displays usually light up with all ones or zeros. Another likely problem is worn out connectors on the cable running between the MPU and the driver board. Those pins are hard to get these days (very obsolete).

#947 48 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

It will boot but the displays usually light up with all ones or zeros.

Ah yes, thanks for jingling my memory. Usually zeros.

On mine I bypass the switch, on 80B on the MPU board.

#948 48 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

It will boot but the displays usually light up with all ones or zeros. Another likely problem is worn out connectors on the cable running between the MPU and the driver board. Those pins are hard to get these days (very obsolete).

When it first boots on the displays come on Immediately no five second. Delay and they're all, zeros

#949 48 days ago
Quoted from Jasenwm:

When it first boots on the displays come on Immediately no five second. Delay and they're all, zeros

Jumper the slam switch on the door to the closed position and repeat the power on test. Does it act different? How are the pins on your cable running between the MPU and driver board? You might need to replace / repair that cable. PM me if you want a new one, I still have NOS parts to make those. Do you know how to clean the edge connectors on the board? The best way is very old school. Take the board out and use an old rectangular rubber pencil eraser on the edge connectors until they are shinny. Clean the area with alcohol and reassemble. Do not sand them. A lot of people do and it is just plain wrong. Report back your findings. Don’t worry, we’ll help you get it sorted out.

#950 48 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Jumper the slam switch on the door to the closed position and repeat the power on test. Does it act different? How are the pins on your cable running between the MPU and driver board? You might need to replace / repair that cable. PM me if you want a new one, I still have NOS parts to make those. Do you know how to clean the edge connectors on the board? The best way is very old school. Take the board out and use an old rectangular rubber pencil eraser on the edge connectors until they are shinny. Clean the area with alcohol and reassemble. Do not sand them. A lot of people do and it is just plain wrong. Report back your findings. Don’t worry, we’ll help you get it sorted out.

Thank you! I'll try that and report back

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