1) Yes, you have to use 313 bulbs which operate at 28 volts.

2) Multiball only will work if the machine is modified with a multiball trough and appropriate ROM.

Yes, that's normal. The lower playfield lighting runs on 28vdc and uses #313 bulbs. There are a few people in this thread who cover converting the lower playfield GI to #44/5vdc bulbs. It's quite easy with Black Hole and I think it's a similar procedure for HH, but the location of the relays are different.

I've had both of my games converted to run on 5Vdc and put 2SMD Clear LEDs from Comet and it looks fantastic. I think the ghosting actually creates a kind of cool affect on the lower playfield, makes it look other worldly and different from the upper playfield.

I believe it's a completely different game in the menu selection, but I don't own the board so I can't tell you for sure.

Thanks, for the Rom I thought it was included in the janin board.
Had no idea for the trough, will check that

Yes to convert to multi-ball you need a trough that holds more than one ball and the wiring.

http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/hauntedhouse/

Yes, the multiball feature is quite a bit of work. It's cool but you really need to have all your resourced locked in and ready before you consider doing it.

http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/hauntedhouse/index.html

Haaaaaaaaaaa, treed you by 33 seconds

Twice

Any ideas why the cellar, attic and main level inserts appear to be backwards on all haunted houses I see except mine? Every playfield picture I pull up has them switched wrong. I went to look at my game and they are in the correct orientation. Cellar goes to cellar, attic to attic and so on. Was there a run of these games where they messed up? Or are they all wrong and someone switched my inserts or decals?

What? Pictures? Maybe you have an early version? But pictures would help...

Any one have this in their game? Pretty cool....

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1247-toast-mach1-mods-shop/03359-haunted-house-custom-lightning-window-mod

Having one last question:
Ball popper sending the ball back from the cellar to the main playfield is suceeding with a 50% rate.
Any trick to improve that? Already changed the sleeve.

Are you sure it is aligned properly? Other than that, changing to a stronger coil is usually the trick.

Mine was re-aligned and it still did this. Ended up needing the pop bumper board mod done. Now it fires strong EVERY time!

Mine was having trouble, messing with the alingment got it to fire out of the hole harder and down to the left flipper, but it would still struggle sometimes. I ordered a 4093 red coil and new switch for the K relay and put them in. Now it only didn't make it up one time out of about 40 games so far.

WEAK VUK FIX - Copied from the world wide web

The vertical up kicker (V.U.K.) used on Haunted House that kicks the ball from the lower playfield back to the main playfield tends to be weak and unreliable. To correct this problem, it is advisable to install a (modified) pop bumper driver board to give good reliable action. A weak upkicker can be a major problem with Haunted House, and much less of a problem with Black Hole. On Black Hole, if the playfield mounted 2N5879 transistors were modified with the 4.7k pull up resistors (as described above), this modification is not needed. But I would highly recommend this modification for a Haunted House!

The correct coil for the Upkicker on Black Hole and Haunted House is coil number A-4893 (535 turns of 22 gauge wire). This is mis-printed in some manuals.
There are several reasons the up kicker gets weak on Haunted House. One reason is because the normally open tungsten switch will pit with use. This pitting will cause resistance, and make the up kicker coil it connects thru weaker. Also if this switch is mis-adjusted, the coil can easily lock on and burn. I've seen this switch get RED hot while trying to kick the ball to the upper playfield unsuccessfully.

Another problem is that the four ounce steel pinball lands right on top of the up kicker's coil sleeve before it is launched vertically to the main playfield. This can cause the coil sleeve to break and/or mushroom. This causes the coil plunger to have resistance, and not operate at full strength.

Installing a Pop Bumper Driver board to replace the relay driven switch (and the coil relay that drives it) will solve the first problem mentioned. The CPU board will send a pulse to the Pop Bumper Driver board, which in turns connects the solenoid to ground for the proper amount of time. Coil burns are avoided because if the ball sensing switch gets stuck, the Pop Bumper Driver board only sends one pulse to the up kicker coil.

The next two points apply to the Haunted House upkicker, regardless if the upkicker modification is done or not.

Check where the upkicker plunger hits the ball when it's resting in the upkicker lower playfield hole. To do this, turn the game off. Put the ball in the lower playfield's upkicker hole. Manually move the upkicker plunger up, and notice where it hits the ball. It should hit it dead center. If not, adjust the upkicker mounting bracket from under the playfield till it hits the center of the ball. If the plunger hits the ball off-center, the ball will bounce off the sides of the clear plastic upkicker tube, and may not make the main playfield reliably.

Always replace the upkicker coil sleeve with a new, double flanged nylon coil sleeve. The top edge of this coil sleeve can get easily damaged from the pinball hitting it. This can cause resistance for the coil plunger.

Adjust the clear plastic upkicker ball tube. This tube must be perfectly over the upkicker ball hole in the lower playfield. If it's off-center, the ball will bounce off the sides of the tube on the way up, and may not make the main playfield reliably. Also sometimes when lowering the main playfield the tube gets mis-aligned and bends out of position. Keep an eye on this tube as lowering the main playfield! Notice the metal bracket on the lower playfield behind the upkicker ball hole. It has a half circle cut-out, and elongated screw holes for adjustment. The clear plastic upkicker ball tube should rest against this bracket in the half circle cut-out. This is done with a spring that is connected to the clear plastic upkicker ball tube.
The bracket is adjustable; if the ball is not making it to the main playfield reliably, try moving this bracket a bit. This will change the centering of the clear plastic upkicker ball tube. Also make sure the clear plastic upkicker ball tube's spring is in place with decent tension.
If one has done the above three points, and the upkicker is still not working reliably, do the following upkicker modification. This modification for Haunted House will connect the ball kicker solenoid ground lead (non-banded solenoid diode lead) to pin 1 of the pop bumper driver board. Pin 4 is connected to the normally open relay switch of the ball kicker relay coil. Pin 2 is connected to the solenoid ground. Pin 5 is connected to +5, pin 6 is connected to logic ground.

Haunted House Upgrade Parts Needed:

(1) Pop Bumper Driver Board. If an original Gottlieb board is not available, buy a new "Tom Callahan" from Pinball Resource or Pinball Lizard's upgraded pop bumper driver board from www.pbliz.com (http://www.pbliz.com/id26.htm). Both have the same pinout, and are plug and play.
(1) 6 pin female .156" Molex connector housing (for the above).
(5) Connector pins for above, Molex part number 08-52-0072 (same pins used for single sided connectors, described earlier).
(1) 4.7mfd 10v electrolytic capacitor.
(1) Male round .093" molex pin, Molex part number 02-09-2118 (optional, but recommended).
(1) Female round .093" molex pin, Molex part number 02-09-1119 (optional, but recommended).
(1) Radio Shacks' .093" pin extractor tool, part number 274-223 (optional, but good to have).
(1) Double flanged coil sleeve.
(1) A-4893 Gottlieb coil (if needed).
Procedure:

Install the Gottlieb A-4893 coil with a new double flanged coil sleeve. In a pinch, use a Williams 22-550 coil, but it won't fit real well in the existing Gottlieb coil frame. Make sure there is a diode on the coil leads with the band side of the diode going to the power lead.

If not already done, modify your Gottlieb Pop Bumper Driver board as explained previously in the section titled Pop Bumper Driver Board Fix (file:///C:/Users/Jeff/Documents/pinrepair/PinballHQ.com/sys80/index2.htm#popbump) (this reverses the polarity of capacitor C3, replaces diode CR1 with a jumper wire, and replaces capacitor C4, among other things). This modification is not required if you are installing a new "Tom Callahan" or Pinball Lizard pop bumper driver board.
On the solder side of the Pop Bumper Driver board, install the 4.7mfd 10v capacitor. Solder the minus (-) leg of the cap to pin 4 of the molex connector pin (the "input" line). Solder the positive (+) leg of the cap to pin 5 (the +5 volt line). This is a very important step! Without this filter cap, the input line running from the CPU to this new Pop Bumper Driver board can pick up noise. Every time the flippers are pressed, the upkicker can fire without this cap. Here are the pin numbers in reference to the "key" pin (the missing pin that would normally be pin 3): 6 5 4 key 2 1. This capacitor is not required if installing a new "Tom Callahan" or Pinball Lizard pop bumper driver board.

The Added 4.7mfd electrolytic capacitor on the Pop Bumper Driver Board.

Install the new Pop Bumper Driver board underneath the lower playfield. Mount it next to the relay coil that drives the upkicker coil.
On the lower playfield, remove the white-orange-blue wire from the switch on the upkicker relay coil. Remove the remaining wire connected to the other lead of this switch (and that connects to the fuse for the upkicker coil). Connect these two wires together. The switch should now have no wires connected to it. This provides power to the coil.

Note the orientation of the 6 pin molex plug on the Pop Bumper Driver board. Here are the pin numbers in reference to the "key" pin (the missing pin that would normally be pin 3): 6 5 4 key 2 1. Note pin 6 is closest to the capacitor just above the power transistor.
Remove the white-black-brown wire from the lower playfield relay coil (non-banded diode side).

Connect this wire to pin 4 of the Pop Bumper Driver board. This is the "trigger" wire for the PBDB. Before this modification, the driver board completed this wire to ground to energize the relay (which in turn energized the upkicker). Now the driver board will ground this wire, triggering the PBDB. Often this wire will need to be lengthened, depending on where the PBDB was mounted. Note the relay coil will now have only one lead with wires going to it.

Remove the two green ground wires connected to the lower playfield upkicker coil (non-banded diode side). These two wires must stay connected together. Splice two more 6 inch wires into these ground wires. Now the original two ground wires which are connected together, are connected to the two new wires. Connect these two new wires to pins 2 and 6 (ground) of the Pop Bumper Driver board.

Connect pin 1 of the Pop Bumper Driver board to the non-banded diode side of the upkicker coil. Note the two green wires were removed from this terminal in the previous step. This completes the path to ground for the coil, when the PBDB is triggered.

Connect pin 5 of the Pop Bumper Driver board to +5 vdc. To do this, route a wire along the wiring harness and to the bottom of the main playfield. Splice into pin 5 of an existing Pop Bumper Driver board located there. Optionally, to do this step cleanly, use the empty pin on plugs A9-P2/J2. Install male (#02-09-1118) and female (#02-09-1119) round .093" molex pins into the empty holes in plugs A9-P2 and A9-J2. This way the lower playfield can be easily unplugged and removed.

Summary of the Pop Bumper Driver board Pinout.

Pin 1: Switched Ground (goes to device being driven by the PBDB, to complete the device's circuit to ground)
Pin 2: Ground
Pin 3: KEY (not used)
Pin 4: Switch input (this pin gets grounded to turn the PBDB on)
Pin 5: +5 volts
Pin 6: Ground

Well I have to have one now. Shows out of stock though.

Id like him to match the window on the plastic if possible. I see he had a few options. When were these ever available?? Never seen them before...

I haven't seen them before either.

Wow that's pretty complete, thanks! Will check that

Just spotted these for anybody who needs them. Worth it for the green covers alone almost.

ebay.com link: Gottlieb System 80 Pinball 7 DIGIT DISPLAYS FROM HAUNTED HOUSE UNTESTED LOTOF 4

Haunted House has 6 digit displays, not 7.

I figured it was a typo.

HH has 5 not 4 displays that size, it was what tweaked my interest in the ad. I suspect they are 6, not 7 digit units.

Which is also odd to me. Again, the covers are pretty rare to see so I was mostly posting for those. I will say one thing that strikes me as odd is that the seller says they came out of a HH, so there's a chance they're correct. Anyway. Just figured I'd pass it along.

I have a friend who is looking into making new covers for the gottlieb displays.

Son of a...I got bamboozled.

I purchased a set probably 15 years ago as a backup but I never actually looked at them that closely. Dug them out to compare, and mine are 7 digit, and HH is definitely 6 digit alphanumeric. For some reason I thought they also came with the green screens. I paid a pretty penny for them too. Shhiiiit.

Anyway yes those look legit from what I can see. Just a typo(or doesn't know they are 6 digit). Guessing they are 4 from the backbox, missing the one that was on the playfield, and the other odd one for credits/balls.

Its time for some Haunted House streaming....maybe end of week or this weekend. Stay tuned...

Finally got my Haunted House back up and running except for sound, which is intermittent at best. Pulled edge connectors, cleaned and replaced. Nothing seemed to work. I first attempted to bring it back using old boards and then replacements but ended up pulling them all and using PI-80 which solved a ton of issues and gave me fantastic diagnostic help to move forward but the sound issue is persistent and I am reaching out for ideas to debug. If you can point me to a good thread or drop some responses I'd appreciate it.

Figuring my next move was to replace the old sound board but with the new FLIPPP version but trying to avoid that if possible. New speech sounds neat but I really just want my classic sound back.

20200318_201938 (resized).jpg

What sounds are missing? Is it just the background sound? Some of the sound settings are configurable so I'd double check all the DIP switch settings first. If all else fails then look at getting your board repaired.

All sound. Worked for a bit once I got PI-80 installed and then it stopped. Seemed to kick in occasionally and now nothing. Last time it did work the sound was all the way up and I simply reached in and lowered the volume but it reacted like an old volume control that was crackling with a bad connection. That is my current lead that I am chasing down.

Have original sound board but I did replace the aux sound power supply with a new one.

Checked the config. I only have the CLASSIC sound on. The background sound I tried enabling it to see if it made a difference. It didn't so I reset it back to disabled.

Hoping board still ok since sound did work for a bit..

Shooting in the dark, but I had the same issue when I first got mine. The speakers are wired in SERIES on this machine, so that means that if any of the cables come disconnected at any time from any of the speaker terminals, you'll loose sound. Check those terminals and get back to me! Every time you move one of the connectors, you are, in one way or another down the line, moving the speaker cables around unless they're tied down.

If that's not it, tell us, are you getting amplifier hum? Any signs of if its the amplifier going bad or the sounds not firing? The amplifiers on those boards are notoriously unstable.

Checked speaker connects. All looks good there. No hum at all. Dead silence.
Not sure if PI-80 Sound Test works for Haunted House but I get no tones on any of those tests.
Unfortunate because right after installing PI-80 board and at startup the sound was great.
Visually checked all fuses for burnout. Nothing. Next step I can meter them just to be sure.

Will dive behind glass again. Hit reset on sound board. Unplug connectors. Replug and try again shortly.

20200319_212951 (resized).jpg

Unplugged connectors from Sound Card and Aux Power to Sound. Reseeded them. All look good to me.
Hit test button on sound card. Nothing. Powered game back up. Nothing.
Sound card bad? As you can see I have already replaced the Aux Power.
Given where I am replacing the sound card entirely may be the best avenue, but I hate doing that when there are no obvious burnouts that I see on the card itself.

20200319_215101 (resized).jpg

20200319_215106 (resized).jpg

20200319_215113 (resized).jpg

Are any of the ground mods done on your game? If not that is something you're going to want to look at. Are there any other Haunted House owners near you? I wouldn't just replace the sounds board. If you can run it in another game you can confirm if the sound board is working or not. If it is then you know the issue is somewhere else in your game. If the board isn't working then it can be fixed. All the ones I've had to work on have been solid once gone through. I'm sure there are others out there that repair them too.

I believe the new PI-80 board removes all needs for ground mods since those were geared toward the old controller and driver cards.
The only ground connection is on the new aux power board for sound (see upper left) and it is grounded. I have a local guy that can test and repair boards at ArcadeRescue911.com. Will give him a buzz.

Will also be testing the fuses again with my meter to make sure they are good. Seen too many posts where it still came back to a fuse that supposedly looked good. Maybe wishful thinking but since no sound is coming out there may be hope in that avenue.

I'm not super familiar with the Pascal boards so I can't confirm how the sound tests work on his board, but if you're getting complete silence you can isolate your problem to the Sound Board, its connectors, and the voltages coming into it or out of it. I would bet a 6-pack of lager that it's a connection issue, either molex, IDC, or speaker terminal somewhere down the line. Before you chase down all those wires though:

1.) Get your meter out and test all your fuses (never rely on your eyes!!!)
2.) Check the Sound Board input voltages. Pin 10 should be your +30vdc, Pin 1 should be your +12vdc, Pin 5 should be +5vdc, Pin 3 should be -12vdc. If those are all present and you still aren't getting amplifier sound, you either have a bad connector somewhere post-audio output, or the amplifier is toast (which can happen from improper wiring of the speakers putting an incorrect impedance load on the amplifier for long periods of time and likely won't show any visible burnout).
3.) If the voltages mentioned above are NOT present, check the S/S Power Supply to make sure it's getting all of it's proper input/output voltages. It is bonkers to me that an aftermarket board doesn't have voltage test points, but oh well. I notice there's an additional ground on the S/S PSU that is just lying around... don't let that just sit there. Tie that sucker down to a proper ground and while you're at it tie the other boards down too. Not sure where to tie the Pascal board down, but email Pascal and I'm sure you will get a quick, helpful response.

I'm hoping somebody can chime in and tell us how to test to see if the amplifier is bad. While putting in a new more stable amplifier is cheap, it can be a messy job even for people who are proficient at board modifications. If the amp is the problem, I would recommend just getting a new board from Fred Swemmer. I just got one for Black Hole and it works so nicely and is tricked out with voltage indicator LEDs which is a really nice touch.

BIG EDIT:
If your voltages are fine and you aren't getting any sound, there is definitely a chance that something on the board went. Resistor, Cap, Hex Inverter, SOMETHING but then you're in board repair land and I'm not much help there.

You can manually trigger sounds by grounding the various input line pins

Unfortunately that won't do much if the speakers aren't getting any signal!

Thanks. That gives me something to check on tonight.
Appreciate the guidance thus far. As we all know these are frustratingly satisfying journeys.
Happy on overall progress from where I started with a Dead HH.. Now at least it is somewhat playable but sound is essential.
After I resolve sound it will be on to Pop Bumpers. They are all dead as well.

Much appreciated! Updates later this evening.

Checking A6P1 Connections on Sound Card from top to bottom.
These are the meter readings

From Top to Bottom referencing 2nd picture
12v
0
0
0
5v
-----
0
0
5v
-----
5v
30v
5v
5v

Not quite sure I understand... You've listed 11 voltages and there's 12 pins on that connector. I think I'm a little lost on your description of which connector you're testing. For reference: The sound card connector should be A6P1 and the S/S PSU connector should be A7P1. Please refer to them in that way moving forward.

Fixed now

Hm, well, those are some wild voltages. I notice for the most part (with the exception of Pin 3 normally indicating -12v and the last 3 pins not really having much interaction with +5v of U16...) they are pretty consistently double double what you should be seeing (or I guess if you consider double -12v being 12v it checks out but PEMDAS reigns supreme).

Sure your meter is set to the correct DC voltage readings and your ground is proper? Anybody else want to chime in and tell me I'm talking out of my ass?

Yea too much bourbon. Had on AC.
Readings are corrected now.

Hmm. Pulling the connector, shoving the meter probes into connector and then putting back must have done something.
I have sound. Then started to play game. Sound began to crackle but not consistent sound. I adjusted volume. No sound.

Sounds like something between board and speakers in wiring. Would you agree?

I'm on my third glass of scotch over here so I feel you.

Yea, like I've been saying, I bet it's a connector issue. When I looked closer at the schematic, the volume put is the last thing the sound hits before it his the speaker. Maybe try re-soldering the contacts on the volume pot and spraying it with deoxit? Also maybe try reseating any connectors between A6P1 and the volume pot and seeing what happens.

Wanted to check the potentiometer. Am I correct that if I touch the middle and either outer it should show a resistance AND if I dial the potentiometer one way or the other it should increase or decrease? With meter set on RX10k and dialing the OHMS ADJ down I get a reading of a little under 3 ohms. I am using an old analog so ballparking it around 2.7. Adjusting the volume does nothing to the reading. This reading is consistent no matter what prongs I touch.

Would a conclusion be that the base resistance of the wire is not being affected by the potentiometer but it should be? Wondering if it is bad.

Rolled the dice and purchased these, 4 very nice green filters and 4 working 7 digit displays

One was a little dim, hit it with 6.3 volts for 4 minutes and its daisy fresh again.

20200321_154824 (resized).jpg

So these are not HH displays, but they have the filters?

Regularly people will test to see if potentiometers are logarithmic or linear by connecting the middle and one of the outer tabs with one prong of the DMM and the last outer tab with another prong of the DMM. If you turn the knob, you should see a difference. If you put a prong to both of the outer tabs, you should she the total resistance of the potentiometer no matter what position its in.

So I cross reference Black Hole and Haunted House together pretty frequently (I have both) and the audio section is where things start to differ ever so slightly. However, both potentiometers are supposed to be 100ohms (though the stock wattage of each resistor is questionable). The x10k meter is maybe a little high for a 100ohm resistor so that might make the reading not change all that much. Check it on the 100 ohm setting.