Pretty darn awesome. I was playing last week and must have got the ball just right and I could hear it bounce off, rang like a bell.

I just laughed maniacally.

Someone can jump in and correct me on this one, but I had a similar problem with a System 1 game that I had a while ago. It ended up being the bulb harness for the pop bumper, which are notoriously finicky. I had to take the pop bumper out, recondition/re-tension the bulb harness fixture (there's got to be a proper word for that doo-hickey) and the put it all back together. I /think/ I also put a lot of tubular heat shrink around the base pegs and that fixed it for me.

Hi, check out the schematic up to the PIA (6532). 6532 are very fragile... Also have a look on chips in between... A logic probe will be necessary

Any chance there is a HH backglass available out there?

here you go i think it is $235 https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/haunted-house-backglass-cpr

Unfortunately he has decided not to ship.

http://bgresto.com/?p=1388

I don't know if this is a upload flub but I CANNOT tell the difference between the before and after photos here. Also noticing that the backglass for sale doesn't have the silver plating on the back. Is this normal for BGResto jobs?

look almost exactly the same from here too . . .

Just had a lot of 6532 chips come in last night. Before I put any new ones onto a board, I socketed all the 6532 spaces, and just for the hell of it, swapped all three of them around to different places. Logically if the problem stemmed from those chips, if I swapped them to different places, the described locking effect wouldn't happen or at least it would affect the game differently...

Going to do some clueless poking around once this logic probe comes in (or rather my friend who has a spare one comes home). I'll keep you all posted!

I've had a Black Hole in my apartment for the past few months, and I'm going to cycle BH out for HH in the coming weeks

too-many-pins sent me the correct switch and we have light again. Happy day

Hi everyone,

I have a couple of topics pertaining to Haunted House in the tech section. Could those of you with some experience please take a look, especially if you have done the pull-up resistor and kicker solenoid fuse/switch arc fixes recommended in Clay's guides:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/haunted-house-under-playfield-pull-up-resistor-addition#post-5430478
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-system-80-kicker-solenoid-fuses-switch-arc-fix#post-5431887

Thanks, SV

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/88320

This is HORRIBLY dirty but the playfield actually looks amazing. No wear on the scoop. No wear on the secret passage. Barely any wear around the window. No kicker playfield wear. Basement looks good. If I were closer, I'd pick this up without a doubt.

The unbroken secret passage plastic almost sells it.

If I was closer I would snatch those up in a second.

Careful when cleaning your pop bumper caps people! The paint on top must be water-based, comes off with the slightest cleaning.

Whats everyone's thoughts on this one. Seems kind priced higher, I know it has the pascal board with speech and upgraded sound and LED's. Looking at the pictures, cabinet has some scuffs and marks typical from a game of this age. Playfield has has some normal wear but I don't see anything too bad. I am possibly considering buying a HH and this is the closest to me in location. I have seen prices anywhere from $1,900-$2,500. This one is definitely on the higher end and it is listed as firm. Does the pascal board also mean it has multi ball? I don't know much about it. https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/91412

No, multiball requires a hardware change (extra trough mech and switch) as well as the software.

I personally think the robotic voice is out of place on this game. I assume you can disable that...but I'm not sure what other changes there are to the programming of the game.

Has the wrong length legs on the back.

I can't tell if the player 1 display has an issue or if that's something with the new programming.

It amazes me this game is being priced so high in general. This one isn't in bad condition, but mine is in better condition than this and I would never have imagined it would be worth $3k. I think 2500 is pushing it even for a pristine one. Guess it depends on how bad you want one. The condition is pretty standard for these.

Pretty nuts that the value of hh has gone up 2x in the last 5 years Ive owned mine.

Not going any where, so the point is irrelevant.

Damn, has it been five years already? Glad to see it went to a good home.

Thanks for this info, is the game supposed to have longer legs in the back? I see the front casters were removed completely I guess to try and get the game to pitch correctly

Lemme look...

October of 2015 sound right? Time flies man! Its the damn kids...

Yea 27 inch in front and 31 inch in the back. Otherwise it is hard to get any pitch. Easy to find, and no more than normal legs.

Second on both of these comments. Playfield doesn't look bad! The lighted flipper button mods for the respective levels is pretty cool and subtle.

This might be an unpopular opinion (and its your game, do whatever you want to it) but I think this particular example is done up really tackily. Flipper blades look stupid. The LED color matching is over the top. Not super tastefully done in my book. If I bought this thing, the first thing I would do with it is rip those flipper blades off, change it all to warm white LEDs (or hell better yet, #47s to get that attract lighting to dance properly) and get some stock instruction cards.

It may work out for me to grab these. I think it's one machine worth of playfields, not two, but Haunted House is very high on my wanted list right now. Really one of only 2-3 games I'd be looking to buy in the near future.

-Hans

Edit:
Sweet, looks like that playfield set is heading my way next week. Was work breaking my 'no more projects' rule for it. Now I can be a probationary member of the club finally.

-Hans

Club joined today!
Noticed this wire issue in the head.
Anyonecould point me how it should be?

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Hi all,

How do you guys have the angle of your main playfield main flippers set? Should they be parallel with the wire guides below them? Or with the lane guide to the left of the left flipper? I think maybe I have mine angled too high (I set the left one to be parallel with the left lane guide), I can't hit the ramp.

Congrats! Has a Pascal board too which is awesome.

Dunno about everybody else but I’m gonna need a less shitty picture in order to help. My guess is its someone trying to do an extraneous ground mod(?) but need more info.

Just joined the haunted house club yesterday!! I now know why the title of this thread is beautiful beast. Man that thing is freaking heavy to move, easily the heaviest pin I own. This haunted house has a pascal board and lots of led's and upgraded speakers and amp. Looks amazing and is great to play and I am so glad to finally own one. I have a couple questions hopefully someone can help with but I will post them in a separate thread below.

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My new haunted house has a slight GI issue with the lights in the attic. It has all the appropriate ground mods done and has a Pascal board in it. The front GI light that is in between the two upper flippers comes on and off like it should, but it is the only light (in the attic) lighting up. All other GI seems to work as it should. From what I am seeing, the attic pop bumper and lights behind the attic drops targets are not coming on at all. I of course tried switch pop bumper lights just to make sure they were not bad and the pop bumper light works in a different pop bumper so I know its not the bulb. After looking at the manual I see there is two connectors that appear to supply the power to the upstairs playfield GI. A9p6 and A9p5. I was able to find one of these connectors under the playfield in about the center of the bottom of the main playfield and made sure it was good and tight. I can't seem to find the other connector however. Any ideas where I can find it? Also how hard is it to take the attic playfield off? I would like to check under it to see if there is any connectors under there that may of came loose. I have attached a video of what it is doing in attract mode (notice how the pop bumper and rear GI on the upper playfield are not coming on at all) Thanks

20200217_090618 (resized).jpg

Disconnect the front of the ramp (2 fasteners) and there is two hex fasteners on either side of "the attic" and it flips right up.

I tried but could not get better
A white wire has been disconnected from A1J6 and soldered to a brown/violet/white wire coming from pin 10 of A1j5.

Worked on the bumper boards; they're all dead.
2 are blowing fuses, 2 are not.

From those 4, 2 are locking the coil instantly.

Thanks

Did some digging tonight and checked continuity between the gi lights on the playfield. Looks like power for the GI comes in with a purple slate slate colored wire. This wire goes to each socket and is daisy changed between all gi light sockets. There is also a white and black wire which is soldered to the base of each gi lamp socket and is daisey changed between the gi lights. All gi sockets have continuity with each other on the upper playfield on both black wire and purple slate wires. There appears to be continuity between the wires where they connect at the a9p5 and a9p6 connectors so I know the connection at these connectors is good. I also noticed that the upper playfield pop bumper light is tied into the first controlled lamp to the right of the pop bumper. That controlled lamp is also not working but the 3 other yellow dots next to it do. According to the manual the gi lights go from the upper playfield to the a9p5 and a9p6 connectors to an a12 p8 a12j8 plug which I verified was connected securely. I can't find anything in the manual that states there is anything other then 1 GI fuse, so since the rest of the GI works in the game, this fuse has to be good. N relay only seems to control the lower playfield gi and upstairs scores double lights but I can't figure out what the other 2 relays do. Don't see anything in the manual which show what the relays do

Issue has been solved. It was a bear to find, in hindsight I should of probably just went around looking at all connections on the GI on the main playfield as I would of found it a lot sooner. But I ended up digging into the wiring, tracing from the connector under the playfield to the U relay. There was continuity there. White Black Black 6.3V return wires had continuity all the way around the game so I knew the break was in the purple slate slate colored wire which jumpers around the playfield from GI socket to GI socket. Unfortunetely the manual doesn't show which GI light goes to the start of the string which goes up to the attic playfield and also they buried this purple slate slate wire in the center of all wire harness for the most part. I ended up pulling mosts harnesses apart cutting zip ties and removing the dental floss type wax string that was tied around part of the harnesses. I traced the smaller of the purple slate slate wires from the relay over towards the bottom left side of the playfield. After following that wire over, I found the issue. A broken solder connection at the upper lighted GI posts near the welcome part of the playfield. Soldering the two purple slate slate wires that were hooked together but broken off the GI lamp socket restored power to the upper attic playfield all GI lights including the pop bumper. Glad to have figured this issue out. Now to try and figure out why the VUK takes 2 or 3 trys to get the ball up out of the basement and why the lower playfield sometime thinks the ball is down there when it isn't.
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Hi All,

I've been looking for this game for a little while and have a chance to go look at one from a private seller. I've heard stories about this being a maintenance beast, and this will be my first pin. While I have no problems doing some regular maintenance, I also don't want to bring something home that will be more of a time-suck than it has to be. I was wondering if I could get any pointers on certain things to look for when I'm examining/playing the machine that might give me an idea about what I'm in for. Thanks in advance, hoping to join the club soon.

Look for battery damage around the CPU board. Make sure the ground mods were done (if not you will need to do them)Make sure all displays work. Look for playfield wear. There is lots of faqs and write ups and even videos on system 1 gottliebs. Once the ground mods are done and relays and switches cleaned and adjusted properly, these games usually work with no abnormal issues.

Here is a link to system 1 repair logs and how to's. Click the system 1 section. https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_Pinball_Repair_Guides

Clay has 2 videos dedicated to black hold haunted house which are very informative and well worth the money spent on them. Look at bottom of page for TOP 5.1 and TOP 5.2

http://www.pinrepair.com/top/

Biggest thing from a maintenance standpoint is that you've got 3 playfields and 8 flippers, so that's a lot of mechanisms to both work on and worry about access to, and depending on condition it could be a lot of cash for flipper rebuild kits.

That and the typical issues with Gottlieb System 80 boards. Look up "Gottlieb Ground Mod's", and this particular machine would be a System 80 board set, which may not be perfect but is a big step above the earlier System 1 boards.

Otherwise there's really nothing terribly unique about the mechanisms and such for Haunted House. As mentioned above, pinwiki and pinrepair have good source info for general topics covering this generation machine.

Hi,

The main problems known are linked to ground lines to be improved and the vertical upkicker to centre... otherwise, this machine is robust as most of 80/80A. You may learn more consulting Clay Harrel's maintenance DVD's ou Pinwiki articles dedicated to HH or Sys80/80A/80B.

Your VUK problem is probably an alignment issue. The standard coil needs to be upgraded to a stronger coil, bu the alignment and cleanliness of the tube is just as important. Watch Clay's video on the matter.

Yea I watched the video, I played around with the alignment and got it better, it fires down to the left flipper pretty quick most of the time. The thing that doesn't make sense is sometimes it takes a couple tries. Doesn't make much sense for the alignment to be off because if it was, it would probably act up all the time and not work nearly as much. I did order the upgraded coil and a new k switch contact for it. See if that makes a difference.

For the lower playfield coming on when the ball is not down there I think maybe a switch is activating when it shouldn't but I do know the prior owner chased his tail checking stuff trying to figure this issue out. Going to look at the switches and see if anything looks like it could be too close because it is the only thing that makes sense. I did figure out if any drop target is activated or pop bumper in the lower level, it will make the game think the ball is down there when it isn't so I may be on to something.

Can someone do me a huge favor? I think I may have narrowed my lower level playfield issue down to three switches in the lower level but I need someone else to test their working game to see if it behaves the same as mine. I need someone to start a game, lift the main playfield up, activate any of the subway switches to make it think the ball is in the lower level, then hit switch 51. It's called the 10 point switch in the manual however when I hit the switch it is scoring 30 points. There is two on the right side of the lower playfield (see attached video). According to the manual switch 51 is the 2 right slingshot style switches on the right side but they dont have a slingshot, the 3rd switch is on the left and has the slingshot action.

Besides my switches scoring 30 points instead of 10 like the manual says, if I activate the left slingshot, it locks out switch 51 from registering any ball hits. The only thing to get any of the switch 51s to start registering again is to activate the pop bumper around 10-15 times. Then the switch 51s start registering hits again. Please watch the attached video to see what I mean. In the beginning of the video you can hear that when I activate either of the switches on the right they are not registering any hits until the pop bumper is pressed about 12 times and then the right targets go back to registering hits. If the left lower slingshot it activated, it stops the right side targets from registering any hits. Only way to get them back working is to once again activate the pop bumper about 12 times.

Can someone please do me a huge favor and see how there lower level right side targets react? Do they score 30 points for each hit, and also if the lower left slingshot is activated, does it lock the right side targets out like mine? Thanks

Well, time to break out the naptha and see what I've done to myself. This is that playfield set from St. Louis from a couple pages back which just arrived today.

95% of this playfield looks to be completely blemish-free and just dirty as hell. A few spots will need repair near the lower left flipper, and just above the lower left pop bumper. A few pieces missing in the mechanisms, and a few busted plastics, but I'm not terribly worried about that. Looks like the main playfield did so well because it has a full field mylar on it, which both helps and hurts, since some of the damage is to and thru the mylar. Also not sure how that would play into me potentially sending it out for touchup and clearcoating.

Now time to decide if I want to try and piece together a machine, since I have a lead on a lower cabinet, or get this ready to swap into a complete machine. Anybody got a head box laying around that might sway my decision?
IMGP6401 (resized).JPGIMGP6406 (resized).JPG

Ugh, did they ship it to you??? I thought it was a firm pickup.
Thanks for posting the pictures to soothe my curiosity. God damn if that isnt a beautiful original playfield. If you end up not piecing together a machine let me know and I’ll buy them from you.

Somebody from St Louis bought my Stunt Pilot, and was able to bring it up for me when he came up to get the game. Just an odd set of coincidences that made it work.

Got this figured out, seems the lower level targets are supposed to count every hit no matter what targets the ball hits. The ball kicker scoring switch was too close and sometimes the ball kicker would not return all the way causing the switch to make constant contact. This was the cause of the lower level activating at random times during game play. My guess is activating the pop bumper would vibrate the ball kicker target back out breaking contact with the scoring switch which allowed those 10 point targets to score again.

Also replacing my VUK coil with the upgraded one has helped with the ball not making it up on the first try.

I've sold my bumper issues, now onto the last one! Lower playfield lighting !
I blew some LEDs and checked the voltage: reads 25VDC/12VAC
Is this normal?

Alternate question: is there a trick to activate the multiball with the Janin board? It's not in the lost of Roms when pressing test at the beginning.