(Topic ID: 143518)

Haunted House Club: The Beautiful Beast

By davebart5

6 years ago


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  • 1,180 posts
  • 166 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 32 days ago by fast_in_muskoka
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There are 1,180 posts in this topic. You are on page 15 of 24.
#701 2 years ago

I want to eliminate the battery and add NVRAM to my HH. Anyone done it, have pictures, and / or any tips?

#702 2 years ago

I want to get green flipper rubbers for my game. I wrote to Pinball Resource to see if they have the narrow Gottlieb flipper rubbers in green but they don't. For those of you that have switched to green flipper rubbers what kind did you use? Did you use regular width flipper rubbers?

#703 2 years ago
Quoted from pindude80:

I want to get green flipper rubbers for my game. I wrote to Pinball Resource to see if they have the narrow Gottlieb flipper rubbers in green but they don't. For those of you that have switched to green flipper rubbers what kind did you use? Did you use regular width flipper rubbers?

Titan Pinball has good stuff. I went with the correct sized flipper rubber. I put glow in the dark on the upper and lower playfields and went with orange on the main. Looks really good.

#704 2 years ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Titan Pinball has good stuff. I went with the correct sized flipper rubber. I put glow in the dark on the upper and lower playfields and went with orange on the main. Looks really good.

Ok, I'll have to look into the Titan stuff. I guess they have the narrow Gottleib flipper rubber?

You have any pics of yours?

#705 2 years ago
Quoted from pindude80:

Ok, I'll have to look into the Titan stuff. I guess they have the narrow Gottleib flipper rubber?
You have any pics of yours?

not mine but off of Titan's web site. It is where I got the idea.

b205cdce6911a525112f0f42f82e699a[1] (resized).jpg
#706 2 years ago

After over a year waiting for it to be for sale I finally got a HH! Nice condition but has a few gremlins. Game plays however randomly during gameplay switches to the next ball in play even though the current ball hasn’t drained.
Sound is also also intermediate. Sometimes on / then not / cutting out / not on during attract mode etc sometimes.
Previous owner has installed a Rottendog MPU board.
Any suggestions guys?
Repin connectors?

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#707 2 years ago

Any one have a good quality scan of the pop bumper cap graphic? Having trouble finding a flat image online. This is the best I can find but its a little low res.

6CF288C3-28B0-47EF-95F6-4698D11AD377 (resized).jpeg
#708 2 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Any one have a good quality scan of the pop bumper cap graphic? Having trouble finding a flat image online. This is the best I can find but its a little low res.[quoted image]

Made this just for you. I also have the PSB and AI file if you prefer. Took me about 30 seconds to create and 22 minutes to upload. Enjoy.
Haunted House pop bumper.jpg

#709 2 years ago
Quoted from sheahan2:

Made this just for you. I also have the PSB and AI file if you prefer. Took me about 30 seconds to create and 22 minutes to upload. Enjoy.
[quoted image]

This project is semi complete. Sorry for no update but no one seemed to care in this club.

1 week later
#710 2 years ago

I want back into this club. A restored HH is #1 on my wish list. Such a great pin all around.

4 weeks later
#711 2 years ago

Any ideas on what I can check for random resets? Worked just fine, I unplugged it for a week while I was on vacation, came back and plugged it in and now it get random resets. Doesn’t seem to have a particular thing setting it off. Thanks

#712 2 years ago
Quoted from DrWaz:

Any ideas on what I can check for random resets? Worked just fine, I unplugged it for a week while I was on vacation, came back and plugged it in and now it get random resets. Doesn’t seem to have a particular thing setting it off. Thanks

Is the whole game resetting? Do you know if the ground mods were done on the game or if the boards have ever been serviced? May be time to go over the power board, caps, etc. If the ones in the bottom of the cabinet are original then those should probably be replaced.

#713 2 years ago
Quoted from NorCalRealtor:

I want back into this club. A restored HH is #1 on my wish list. Such a great pin all around.

Agreed there...just rejoined this stellar club with my 4th one yesterday. Hopefully this time it gets bolted to the floor. Daughter loves this pin, and she wasn’t happy when I sold the last one.

As soon as I got home, she came out and said “it’s really dirty.” Not even kidding...came back out with some Novus and started cleaning it. Didn’t even wait for me to get it in the house.
EE2374BE-16E7-4C82-8D2A-81E12D502857 (resized).jpegDA7A92C8-CDD7-49B1-99C5-2DB0B69499F4 (resized).jpeg

#714 2 years ago

Picked it up as a semi-project. Cab is in excellent shape. PF’s are dirty as hell...apparently it was stored without the PF glass.

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BG is totally shot, luckily I have a half decent one hanging in my gameroom in a backlit frame that I can throw in there for now. Better than nothing.

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MPU has some corrosion, seller said GI would light but the game wouldn’t boot. No ground mods done, PSB looks a little flaky too. Let the adventure begin! Definitely needs some love...but still psyched to have another one.

Goodie bag w/ manual was still clipped inside the cab though. Very cool.

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#715 2 years ago

Cab is pretty damn good...bright colors. A couple dings but nothing major. PF and plastics are actually cleaning up nice.

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#716 2 years ago

Gotta love the substituted and “reshaped” Bally Kiss plastic in front of the attic. Anybody have any spare plastics?

A few other ones are chipped and cracked, so if not, looks like I’m ordering a new complete repro set.

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#717 2 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Is the whole game resetting? Do you know if the ground mods were done on the game or if the boards have ever been serviced? May be time to go over the power board, caps, etc. If the ones in the bottom of the cabinet are original then those should probably be replaced.

Ground mods have been done. I’ll have to look at the rest. Seems weird that it worked just fine before I went on vacation and now it’s not.

#718 2 years ago
Quoted from DrWaz:

Ground mods have been done. I’ll have to look at the rest. Seems weird that it worked just fine before I went on vacation and now it’s not.

All Gottlieb Sys 80 pins need thier power supplies rebuilt at some time. My guess is the power supply needs some help or you need to repin or replace your power cable going to the MPU. This is assuming you have already replaced the orange capacitor in the bottom of the cab. That thing causes all sorts of funny issues when it goes.

#719 2 years ago

Ok so i’m almost done bringing a friends HH back from the dead. Was not booting but worked through that and now it plays 100%. Hurrah.

The only the not working is the playfield GI. lightboard lights work as do the coin door lights. But non of the 3 playfields have GI.

Fuse F6 in the cab is fine (tested out of circuit). I have correct voltage at A12J4, A12J8 which according to the schematics (page 41) is where i should find it.

This seems like it should be simple - am i missing something? I dont see a GI relay or anything like that. Maybe the terminals in the wire harness connector aren’t making good contact? I would think a broken wire on a playfield wouldn’t affect all 3....

#720 2 years ago
Quoted from Completist:

I dont see a GI relay or anything like that.

Wasn’t looking hard enough. Think this may have something to do with it...

8379231F-D93A-4DC8-B5EF-085510A41B4B (resized).jpeg
#721 2 years ago
Quoted from DrWaz:

Ground mods have been done. I’ll have to look at the rest. Seems weird that it worked just fine before I went on vacation and now it’s not.

Odd things can happen at anytime. My own game was working perfect until I moved it and brought it home from my parents. Lost part of the back lighting effects and had sound issues. Got them all sort out. Since then I've used my machine to rebuild a few sound boards and MPU.

#722 2 years ago
Quoted from sheahan2:

Made this just for you. I also have the PSB and AI file if you prefer. Took me about 30 seconds to create and 22 minutes to upload. Enjoy.
[quoted image]

You are awesome!!

#723 2 years ago

This might be a silly question, but where is the volume control knob on haunted house? I just got it set up in my basement, but my kids are sleeping, so I want to adjust the volume before I turn the game on

#724 2 years ago
Quoted from sixtyfourbits:

This might be a silly question, but where is the volume control knob on haunted house? I just got it set up in my basement, but my kids are sleeping, so I want to adjust the volume before I turn the game on

The pot is inside the coin door to the right next to the fuse panel.

#725 2 years ago

Just got my beast back this weekend...

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#726 2 years ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

The pot is inside the coin door to the right next to the fuse panel.

Thanks Colsond3

#727 2 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Just got my beast back this weekend...[quoted image]

Hey wait, oh nevermind lol

1 week later
#728 2 years ago

Is anyone here running the Pascal board in their Haunted house? If so, I'm curious if your 'trap door' stays open during gameplay. It's strange - the trap door closes after a game is over (and when no game is being played) so I know the mechanicals work. However, as soon as you start a game, the trap door opens and remains open for the duration of the game.

Does anyone have any thoughts/suggestions?

#729 2 years ago
Quoted from SunKing:

Is anyone here running the Pascal board in their Haunted house? If so, I'm curious if your 'trap door' stays open during gameplay. It's strange - the trap door closes after a game is over (and when no game is being played) so I know the mechanicals work. However, as soon as you start a game, the trap door opens and remains open for the duration of the game.
Does anyone have any thoughts/suggestions?

Have you checked the driver board to see if the transistor is shorted for that coil?

#730 2 years ago
Quoted from SunKing:

Is anyone here running the Pascal board in their Haunted house? If so, I'm curious if your 'trap door' stays open during gameplay. It's strange - the trap door closes after a game is over (and when no game is being played) so I know the mechanicals work. However, as soon as you start a game, the trap door opens and remains open for the duration of the game.
Does anyone have any thoughts/suggestions?

I know you have the possibility to set up some functions with Pascal's board... You should turn to the documentation delivered with the board or have a look on Pascal's site... If you don't find any satisfactory answer you also have the possibility to directly ask Pascal.

I should not be definitively a transistor or the trap will fully stay open (transistor shorted) or closed (transistor open). If I remember well this coil is part of the switch matrix, so if you turn to the schematics there is also an 1N270 diode to be checked. I'm sure that may interfere... But setting is the most probable cause...

#731 2 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Have you checked the driver board to see if the transistor is shorted for that coil?

Thanks for the suggestion. However, I'm fairly certain it's not the driver board. The trap door does open/close properly - it's just always open during the game.

Quoted from Leveeger:

I know you have the possibility to set up some functions with Pascal's board...

Thanks - I'll dig into the settings and see what I can find.

#732 2 years ago

Hey gang. Extremely pleased to finally be a part of this club. I've wanted a HH ever since I was a kid playing it on Microsoft's Pinball Arcade. There is something that is just SO cool about this game. Anyway, I picked this one up on the coast of Maine and I'm deciding to go the full restoration-route with this one. Doesn't need a whole ton of work as far as the playfield is concerned, but some.

I'm mostly here to have you all tell me what I should do and how I should do it! My plan is: do all the touchups by hand (I have an arts degree so this shouldn't be so hard), clear coat the play fields, do all the appropriate ground mods and pop bumper mods, get a new backglass or get this one restored.

Things I'm mulling over already:
One of the pop bumpers is dead. Not really sure how to go about fixing that board or if I should just go ahead and replace all the pop bumper boards with new ones.
While the color matching, hand painting, and paint application don't scare me, but the clear coat application does. I've got an auto body shop (where some of the owners are pin owners as well coincidentally) who are willing to do some clear coating on the play fields at $200 a pop so I'm planning on just sending it to them, but the whole plexiglass area on the playfield seems problematic to the clear coat process?
I need to learn how to repin molex connectors. You can probably see that there was some hack who did some "repairs" of just clipping one of the cables from A12-J/P4 connector and just tied the two grounds together (eek).
I'm sure I'll have some other questions in the future but right now those are the ones that hit me over the head.

Looking forward to hearing what you all have to say!

HH-0.jpgHH-1.jpgHH-15.jpgHH-16.jpgHH-3.jpgHH-5.jpgHH-19.jpgHH-20.jpg
#733 2 years ago
Quoted from radial_head:

Things I'm mulling over already:
One of the pop bumpers is dead. Not really sure how to go about fixing that board or if I should just go ahead and replace all the pop bumper boards with new ones.

I'd try repairing the pop-bumper boards first. Honestly, they are pretty much the easiest PCB you'll find in a pinball machine. I recently completed a 'players level' restoration, and was able to repair those boards without any problem. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/haunted-house-resto-plus-multiball-and-speach

Quoted from radial_head:

While the color matching, hand painting, and paint application don't scare me, but the clear coat application does. I've got an auto body shop (where some of the owners are pin owners as well coincidentally) who are willing to do some clear coating on the play fields at $200 a pop so I'm planning on just sending it to them, but the whole plexiglass area on the playfield seems problematic to the clear coat process?

I recommend you read the "Vid's guide to restoring playfields" thread here on Pinside. It's full of great info. One of the important lessons I learned (the hard way) is - after you've cleaned the playfield the best you can, lay down a sealer coat of clear before you attempt any touchups. Without it, the paint will soak into the bare wood, and your colors will be off when it's cleared. Also, you will want to remove the plexi window to the lower playfield before spraying any clear.

Quoted from radial_head:

I need to learn how to repin molex connectors. You can probably see that there was some hack who did some "repairs" of just clipping one of the cables from A12-J/P4 connector and just tied the two grounds together (eek).

Knowing how to re-pin connectors is perhaps the most important thing to master. Bad connections/connectors probably account for most of the issues seen on modern SS machines. I make a point to try and re-pin EVERY connector, as youi will save a TON of time down the road trying to chase intermittent issues.

GOOD LUCK!!

#734 2 years ago
Quoted from radial_head:

Hey gang. Extremely pleased to finally be a part of this club. I've wanted a HH ever since I was a kid playing it on Microsoft's Pinball Arcade. There is something that is just SO cool about this game. Anyway, I picked this one up on the coast of Maine and I'm deciding to go the full restoration-route with this one. Doesn't need a whole ton of work as far as the playfield is concerned, but some.
I'm mostly here to have you all tell me what I should do and how I should do it! My plan is: do all the touchups by hand (I have an arts degree so this shouldn't be so hard), clear coat the play fields, do all the appropriate ground mods and pop bumper mods, get a new backglass or get this one restored.
Things I'm mulling over already:
One of the pop bumpers is dead. Not really sure how to go about fixing that board or if I should just go ahead and replace all the pop bumper boards with new ones.
While the color matching, hand painting, and paint application don't scare me, but the clear coat application does. I've got an auto body shop (where some of the owners are pin owners as well coincidentally) who are willing to do some clear coating on the play fields at $200 a pop so I'm planning on just sending it to them, but the whole plexiglass area on the playfield seems problematic to the clear coat process?
I need to learn how to repin molex connectors. You can probably see that there was some hack who did some "repairs" of just clipping one of the cables from A12-J/P4 connector and just tied the two grounds together (eek).
I'm sure I'll have some other questions in the future but right now those are the ones that hit me over the head.
Looking forward to hearing what you all have to say![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Remove the window from the main playfield before you start. It sits on little foam washers and the depth can be adjusted. Not a problem.

For clear coat, ideally you want to clean the playfield, then clearcoat/sand in order to create a very flat surface BEFORE you do your art repairs. It’s also really helpful to be able to clear after painting a large area to lock in your work. Not sure how that works at $200 a pop... maybe they’ll work with you on it since they’re pin guys.

Checkout vid1900’s playfield restore thread for an awesome guide.

#735 2 years ago
Quoted from SunKing:

I'd try repairing the pop-bumper boards first. Honestly, they are pretty much the easiest PCB you'll find in a pinball machine. I recently completed a 'players level' restoration, and was able to repair those boards without any problem. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/haunted-house-resto-plus-multiball-and-speach

I recommend you read the "Vid's guide to restoring playfields" thread here on Pinside. It's full of great info. One of the important lessons I learned (the hard way) is - after you've cleaned the playfield the best you can, lay down a sealer coat of clear before you attempt any touchups. Without it, the paint will soak into the bare wood, and your colors will be off when it's cleared. Also, you will want to remove the plexi window to the lower playfield before spraying any clear.

Knowing how to re-pin connectors is perhaps the most important thing to master. Bad connections/connectors probably account for most of the issues seen on modern SS machines. I make a point to try and re-pin EVERY connector, as youi will save a TON of time down the road trying to chase intermittent issues.
GOOD LUCK!!

Thanks for linking to your restoration! Looks like a very informative post and I'll be sure to my own version of that when I start mine! I've got a lot to learn obviously when it comes to solid state games!

Quoted from radium:

Remove the window from the main playfield before you start. It sits on little foam washers and the depth can be adjusted. Not a problem.
For clear coat, ideally you want to clean the playfield, then clearcoat/sand in order to create a very flat surface BEFORE you do your art repairs. It’s also really helpful to be able to clear after painting a large area to lock in your work. Not sure how that works at $200 a pop... maybe they’ll work with you on it since they’re pin guys.
Checkout vid1900’s playfield restore thread for an awesome guide.

Interesting to hear that both of you recommended the same process because it means that I've obviously read vid's tutorial way out of order. Will do some more reading and report back!

I've got an Amazing Spider-Man that I'm going to be doing some touchups on first before I do Haunted House, just because I care less about that machine and will be a good trial run.

Thanks everybody. So glad to have found this thread!

#736 2 years ago

Just watched Video where a guy had speech and multiball on haunted house. How do I do this?

#737 2 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Just watched Video where a guy had speech and multiball on haunted house. How do I do this?

It's a lot of work. First, you have to be running the PASCAL all in one board. All the rules for multiball are on that board. Then you have to add new switches, relays and new ball troughs to handle the extra balls. There's also an extra relay that's needed.

All the details of the mod can be found here: https://www.flippp.fr/media/pdf/HAUNTED_HOUSE_MULTIBALL.pdf

#738 2 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Just watched Video where a guy had speech and multiball on haunted house. How do I do this?

Yeah I've looked into this whole process because I think multi ball would be kind of cool. Speech however I think really ruins this game. That speech works well for Black Hole but not for Haunted House. Just doesn't jive well with the whole theme. Now if there was a Centaur-esque reverb with a Dracula voice... then that'd be cool but totally undoable.

I also think that the way the multi ball works interrupts the very small and simple ruleset of the game a little too much.

#739 2 years ago

On the hunt for one of these as my son always seems drawn to it when we come across one. Saving for a hopeful 2020 purchase.

MVIMG_20190922_154758 (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#740 2 years ago

Anyone want to trade a "secret passage" plastic for a multi ball trough setup for Haunted House multi ball conversion? I know wishful thinking. Couldn't hurt to try I guess.

20191007_120936 (resized).jpg

#741 2 years ago

Back in the club.

Ironically, two weeks after I picked up a project HH (and drove far to get it) my buddy who bought my old one two years ago asked me if I wanted it back.

So....picked my old one back up and sold the project one this past weekend. Forgot how sweet this one is. CPR backglass, Swemmer MPU and driver boards (with ribbon cable, getting rid of that problematic interconnect harness).

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#742 2 years ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

Back in the club.
Ironically, two weeks after I picked up a project HH (and drove far to get it) my buddy who bought my old one two years ago asked me if I wanted it back.
So....picked my old one back up and sold the project one this past weekend. Forgot how sweet this one is. CPR backglass, Swemmer MPU and driver boards (with ribbon cable, getting rid of that problematic interconnect harness).[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

HH is a great game! Is it just me or is your HH on the wrong legs? Your photo makes it seem on the short side.

#743 2 years ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

HH is a great game! Is it just me or is your HH on the wrong legs? Your photo makes it seem on the short side.

The photo of the front of the game does look a little weird. Just the angle of the pic.

But nope. 27” on the front, and I actually kicked it up to 31” on the back to increase the pitch. Here’s a better shot. Same height as the other pins.

B8F85D3B-0B01-4601-9EB4-B3C47032AA73 (resized).jpeg
#744 2 years ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

The photo of the front of the game does look a little weird. Just the angle of the pic.
But nope. 27” on the front, and I actually kicked it up to 31” on the back to increase the pitch. Here’s a better shot. Same height as the other pins.[quoted image]

It actually should have 31" on the back so that is correct, but even doing that you have to extend them quite a bit to get some pitch.

#745 2 years ago

Hello. Picked up my first pin this weekend from a friends dad who’s had it since the early 90s. Been siting in his basement for 20 years waiting for me to come get it. The sound card is missing but everything else seems to be working ok. What are you guys using to clean the play fields. I’ve seen the arguments between Novus and original go-jo. Which is your favorite and why?

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#746 2 years ago

That’s a great first game. Congrats.

I use Novus 1, or CP100 if there’s serious grime or deep ball swirls. Whatever you use has to be something that isn't water-based. Then apply some wax.

#747 2 years ago
Quoted from Nez02:

Hello. Picked up my first pin this weekend from a friends dad who’s had it since the early 90s. Been siting in his basement for 20 years waiting for me to come get it. The sound card is missing but everything else seems to be working ok. What are you guys using to clean the play fields. I’ve seen the arguments between Novus and original go-jo. Which is your favorite and why?[quoted image]

PBresource has NOS non speech sound boards in stock that will work in Haunted House. I just put one in mine recently.

#748 2 years ago
Quoted from 20eyes:

PBresource has NOS non speech sound boards in stock that will work in Haunted House. I just put one in mine recently.

Mind posting it messaging me the link? Not sure which one to use.

#749 2 years ago
Quoted from radial_head:

Hey gang. Extremely pleased to finally be a part of this club. I've wanted a HH ever since I was a kid playing it on Microsoft's Pinball Arcade. There is something that is just SO cool about this game. Anyway, I picked this one up on the coast of Maine and I'm deciding to go the full restoration-route with this one. Doesn't need a whole ton of work as far as the playfield is concerned, but some.
I'm mostly here to have you all tell me what I should do and how I should do it! My plan is: do all the touchups by hand (I have an arts degree so this shouldn't be so hard), clear coat the play fields, do all the appropriate ground mods and pop bumper mods, get a new backglass or get this one restored.
Things I'm mulling over already:
One of the pop bumpers is dead. Not really sure how to go about fixing that board or if I should just go ahead and replace all the pop bumper boards with new ones.
While the color matching, hand painting, and paint application don't scare me, but the clear coat application does. I've got an auto body shop (where some of the owners are pin owners as well coincidentally) who are willing to do some clear coating on the play fields at $200 a pop so I'm planning on just sending it to them, but the whole plexiglass area on the playfield seems problematic to the clear coat process?
I need to learn how to repin molex connectors. You can probably see that there was some hack who did some "repairs" of just clipping one of the cables from A12-J/P4 connector and just tied the two grounds together (eek).
I'm sure I'll have some other questions in the future but right now those are the ones that hit me over the head.
Looking forward to hearing what you all have to say![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That looks great!!

#750 2 years ago
Quoted from Nez02:

Mind posting it messaging me the link? Not sure which one to use.

GTB-MA309 at http://www.pbresource.com/boards.html

I haven't used this because my games have either had original boards or aftermarket boards (PiFx boards came in my other two Sys80/Sys1 games neither of which the sound operates on, so any tips there are welcome).

Some updates on my game! It was playing just okay for a little bit of time before I dove into this shop but little things started going here and there and now the game no longer boots. What happened was: one of the pop bumpers stopped working, so I changed the transistor and the modifications on that board without realizing (like a complete dumbass) that the pop bumper fuse for that particular pop bumper had blown. In the process of testing that coil with the proper voltage, my hand slipped and a probe connected two points that shouldn't have connected. Quick firing of some coils and then the game stopped in its tracks. When I start the machine, the shoot again lights are lit, the right kicker kicks, 5 seconds of silence, then I get all displays pointing 0 and two kicks from the upper graveyard kicker every 30 seconds or so. Any tips on where to start poking around?

I've been watching Clay's TOP videos to try to better understand these games but some of this stuff just goes right over my head I'm afraid when it comes to chip logic and logic probes and reading chip schems.

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