Ya I just had a similar problem where my 5x was the same way and it was a transistor.

A number of years back someone had made stickers with the art that went under each pop bumper for HH and BH. I thought this was a great idea as these areas are so often trashed due to the clear Gottlieb mylars. Does anyone know if these are still being made and if so where I can get a set? Thank you!

Hi there, just joined pinside and just picked up a Haunted House. On the right side of the cabinet the is a little metal plaque riveted to the side that says Prop No. 33595. Anyone have any ideas what it is from? Anyway lots of work to do on this pin so I'm sure I'll have questions. Thanks

Ugh my haunted house just took a big fat dump on me tonight. Turned her on and the displays were all out and the sound is also out. This damn thing is killing me! I have a brand new pascal board. Also middle playfield locks out at times and it thinks the ball is in the cellar when it is not! Replaced all diodes related to the cellar switches with absolutely no changes. Also all brand new bridge rectifiers replaced a week ago.? Bang head against wall repeat!!!!

That would be cool if I could find out if it was in a movie! It needs some work, a couple of plastics and I would love to find some printed Mylar that could fix some of the wear spots. It's far from perfect but the backglass is super clean and I got a pretty decent deal on it.

In regards to this game being heavy, I own a Hobbit so Haunted House feels very light in comparison lol.

Can you put leds in HH easily without them acting funny? If you can anyone have any great suggestions for color schemes?

Yep

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Does anyone know if the Gulf Pinball Pop Bumper/Kicker driver board works for the basement upkicker upgrade as is or does it need to be modified?

Yes with some conditions. My lower playfield bulb sockets, not the inlays but the ones under the plastics, were deep so I needed a thin bulb to fit down in the wood. I used Comet 8mm frosted, the bigger non-ghosting ones were too wide. Also, the 8 lights on the bottom of the main playfield that illuminate the lower playfield are not 6 volt, these are the 4 bulbs on each side of the window. As someone else wrote, if you put standard 6 volt bulbs in there, they will work "one time really bright for a second or two". I do not know what the voltage is, 12 volt or 24 volt. For these, I called Cointaker and told them I had an HH and was replacing those bulbs and they sent me the correct ones. As a note, I have only found them in white, I wanted color, so I use the green condoms.

cointaker sells the basement lights in green now too FYI.

Just took in a Haunted House to fix up for a buddy of mine. Needs some love but it does fully work. Never worked on a Gottlieb before so it should be quite the journey.

Sweet, I need some. Thanks.

Can anyone tell me what the fuse for the basement upkicker is supposed to be? I have one where someone totally removed the fuse holder and I can't seem to find it in the manual. Thanks.

Hi all. My journey restoring a Haunted House as a total novice and with almost no electronics knowledge continues...

I have a Pascal board and his pop bumper boards. Slowly I’m getting this working and replacing coils, wire bridge/switches etc but I still have some problems I still can’t resolve:
- the pop bumper on the lower playfield and the pop on the main playfield (lower left) don’t work. The coils seem ok.
- none of the lights that illuminate the lower playfield work - both those on the underside of the main playfield, around the window, and the surface mounted ones. The lights under the playfield (that light up messages etc) work fine.
- I have an intermittent fault with coil 8. Pascal’s board says ‘error 2’. have no idea what/where coil 8 is!
- finally, when I turn the machine on and it does its tests it always says switch 57 tilt error. I’ve ignored it as not too worried about the tilt switch at the moment but in case it is related to anything else?

I’ve looked carefully at the group of relays and they look ok. I’ve cleaned the contacts etc.

Any other ideas as to what to check?

Thanks

Matt

http://www.houstonpress.com/arts/halloween-is-so-much-fun-dont-limit-it-to-just-october-9866560

Haunted House in today's Houston Press.

Looking for a Haunted House, pm me if you want to get rid of yours.

Rebuilt connectors fixed the sound issue, new micro fuse on pascal board fixed display issue now I need to find the dead playfield swapping issue.

Check your U relay.

I traced the wires from that relay to each diode and replaced the diodes related to that relay and all solder points contacts cleaned and adjusted as well. The problem is that it is intermittent!

Maybe a break or short in one of those wires? Put your DMM to connectivity and check them. Wiggle them while connected and see if the tone cuts out.

Need to check the schematics, but hoping ya'll can give me a quick version on this errant wire on my HH. Was not connected when I got it. Any idea where it goes? Gonna replace the orange cap this weekend and wanted to sort this out same time if possible.

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Some one recently posted that this is the worst wide body ever made. GOOD LORD what is wrong with people? This was my grail since I was 5 years old. I ALWAYS wanted one. Who can hate this machine?

Quiet you, I'd still like to find one that costs less than a car.

I paid $1600 for mine...just gotta find the deals...or cheaper cars?

I can’t read schematics very well, one of my many Achilles heels, so here is a pic, mine is a reddish orange wire, follow it over to that bottom right corner..

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My sticker says “5 amp slo blo” pm sent too...crap wrong post, right user...

Good stuff

So and Haunted House found it's way home and I was just some preliminary checks to see what it will all need for a rebuild and I can't seem to find the pop bumper boards.

I think they (3 of them) are suppose to be located on the bottom of the playfield near the back box, but there are none there (nor is there any wiring). I attached a picture of the area. Yet they were working last I tried it. There isn't any on the basement playfield either.

Ideals??

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Looks like previous owner(s) had problems with the original pop bumper boards and did some modifications

Haunted House uses four pop bumper boards.

Three here:

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And one here:

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If you want to go back to original, you will need to get a hold of a schematic and crimping tool.

Not sure where you can get replacement pop bumper boards in Canada, but K’s Arcade has a few versions of the same board. The Rottendog one works fine, I got the Homepin ones here in Australia.

https://ksarcade.net/rottendog-pop-bumper-driver-for-gottlieb-system-80-pbb080.html

If your basement up kicker is struggling to get the ball back up on the main playfield, you can bypass the basement ‘K’ relay (not always necessary) and add a fifth one.

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Good luck, love my Haunted House, she deserved some love

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That looks beautiful!

You should get some hi rez scans of that beautiful playfield so we can print some Mylar and fix the rest of our wore out spot.

Got almost everything working on my HH, only thing left is I have no lights down the center of the backbox. Flashers work but nothing behind the house or below the house. Think I just need to replace the F7 fuse? Or should I be looking for something else?

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A high res scan overlay would be awesome

Thank you for the reply - guess I will need to decide if I want to go back to original or not. First thing would be to go through the schematic and wiring harness and see what has been done and how easy to undo. I would assume it should be easy enough as it would be similar to replacing the k relay.

edit - BTW, I also second the scan.

Working on a HH and trying to figure out why the upper playfield pop bumper is not working. Light is working but no pop. Switches are all adjusted and fuse is good. Any thoughts on where to start looking ? Gottlieb games are like french to me.

bump

My machine is currently in storage, so can’t tell you the location of the pop bumper board for the upper playfield (Attic) pop bumper. The manual doesn’t seem to state pop bumper board assignments

Looking at the schematic, it has its own fuse F12 (2A SB), which should be somewhere under the main playfield. (Just in case you were looking at the wrong fuse)

Fuse F12 goes to pop bumper coil with an orange/blue/blue wire.
Other side of the coil is yellow/slate/slate which goes to pin 1 of pop bumper board. This should help you locate which pop bumper board controls it.

Pop bumper board pin outs are:

Pin 1- Coil
Pin 2- Ground bus
Pin 3- Key
Pin 4- Bumper switch trigger
Pin 5- +5 DC
Pin 6- DC Ground (Which also goes to other side of bumper switch)

The Attic playfield will have large connector A9P4/A9J4 connecting to the main playfield harness, so maybe you have a bad pin connection within it?

Hope it just a fuse or a faulty pop bumper board.

Does anyone else's Sound/Speech PSU board look this scary? I was getting ready to order some parts from Mouser and noticed all diodes on the Sound/Speech PSU look like they're getting ready to fail. I'm quite sure these are all factory components. I haven't taken a DMM to it because I don't want to start a new project today. Everything's working fine but, geez, they look awful.

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Restoration and customizing the backpanel of my Haunted House .

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Nice work thierryv! Total drool over that clearcoat and art on the back

Ya. It really looks fantastic. Did you airbrush the back yourself? It looks top notch!

Thanks for your appreciation .
Started with airbrush courses two months ago . I thought it would be a nice to give my HH a personal touch .

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Even if your the only person who ever sees that ball rolling tilt area I think it's sweet. I hope you smile every time you lift your playfield. Nice work. Looks super cool. Making me want to take airbrush classes.

Well, I finally got around to doing this. After my result....I should have waited longer. First I replaced the orange cap. Pretty straight forward. Tested game after that and got thunk, sound, started game. Then I connected the errant wire to the non controlled solenoid rectifier. Now I get no thunk, no sound, can start a game but it does not kick a ball or fire anything. Scoring kinda works and I can add players. The displays scroll to 888888 on occasion. I am afraid I broke my beast. Likely need to check fuses, voltages, and sound board. But wondering if anyone else has had this issue. Not sure if this video will come through... https://www.facebook.com/scott.guthrie.779/videos/1682370325149240/

UPDATE: Well I am thankful for fuses! Blew the F4 (8A), temporarily replaced with a 10A and I get the beast back! Will get the right fuse and NOT connect the errant wire. Clearly the previous owner did some non standard stuff to make it work since I cannot connect like hawknole without bad things happening. Think I will stick to cleaning the playfield and messing with lighting. Otherwise was a good pinball day. Fuse fixed a Zig Zag (at least to playable), fixed the A X on a Top Card (man those things are sensitive). Then the failure/success on HH. Think I will just play for the rest of the day.

Flipper Ruubers - I am sure some of you HHers know this but I did not until recently. So as a public service, please be advised that if you are using standard width rubbers on your HH they are incorrect. Some Gottlieb's including HH use a thinner rubber, 3/8”. The flipper paddles are cut for these thinner ones and if you use the standard you get either ball loft or ball drive into the playfield. After installing the thinner rubbers my shots are more direct & hence more accurate. The only flipper this doesn’t seem to apply to is the mini one upstairs. Thanks to Biffbar for pointing this out to me. Amusingly enough, who then went home & found standard size flipper rubbers on his HH. Kudos to davebart5 for suggesting the PSA. Some pics below of my thinners from Titan...

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Been in storage a couple years, bringing her back home...

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My beast has also been in storage for around a year. I missed playing her!

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I finally found my new CPR web cover I also purchased around a year ago.
After 'slowly' peeling off the top side protective cover, most of the enamel web also came off

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Anyone else had this problem with the CPR reproduction?