Yes.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=77

However, not for the interconnect harness between the mpu and driver board. Only bigdaddy has those bifrucated pins for that harness.

http://bigdaddy-enterprises.com/electronics/e_connectors-156.htm

Which fuse is actually blowing?

No, regular edge connector pins for everything except the harness between the driver board and mpu. Only that harness uses bifurcated pins. Sorry for the confusion.

Have you done a resistance test on the coil?

Since it sounds like you have a different issue, you should probably start your own thread on it. The troubleshooting suggestions for Lovef2k's game will probably be different than the ones for yours.

As for replacement playfield glass, try finding a local glass shop that can cut new glass for you. It should be about $45 or so. You might have to shop around a bit to find that price, since some glass shops will outsource it, which will probably double or triple that price.

Take a look at the pop bumper boards and see if they might need to be updated:

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Updating_the_Pop_Bumper_Driver_Board

I'd try modifying one and see what happens.

A diode issue, maybe?

Careful about those can style transistors...there's fakes floating around.

There's info on pinwiki about replacing the can style with a TIP style.

Unless they were obviously broken or bent, I haven't needed to replace them. Gottlieb generally used better quality parts in their games.

G-P-E knows how to spot fakes. I'm not familiar enough with the part markings to tell.

You don't know if that US seller bought them from a foreign seller and is just relisting them. Or, if the photo is a stock photo of a real one, and what you receive might not match the photo.

That's not to say that the seller is dishonest...it's just that whenever you have an obsolete part that's hard to find, there's going to be fake parts floating around to fill the demand.

They could very well be real NOS parts...who knows. The photo looks ok to me, but like I said, I'm not too familiar with being able to spot fakes.

I'd try it. The repro board has various extras on it (such as the LED indicators and test fire switch), and I'm not sure what impact (if any) those would have.

Although, I'm not even sure what problem(s) the updates are supposed to correct. I have not been able to lay eyes on the original service bulletin that detailed the update.

Either way, I always prefer working with original boards. You never know if a design issue of a repro board is the root cause, and you could end up chasing your tail for a while before you finally determine that.

If updating the board doesn't work, then you could probably eliminate the pop bumper driver boards as the cause of the issue and start looking elsewhere. I like to try to eliminate any known potential problems first, to help rule things out and cut down on the guesswork.

It could be a wire shorting with something else. Make sure to check for any pinched or damaged insulation, and check the movement of mechanisms to see if wiring gets pushed, or if a metal part makes contact with something it isn't supposed to, like a lamp socket.

the 4800uF cap is on the 38v circuit for solenoid voltage.

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From the HH manual.

HH and BH are a bit different than most of the other system 80 games. If you don't have the HH manual, it would be a good idea to get it.

This is what most other system 80 cabs look like:

http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=2742&picno=25168
http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=2564&picno=67688

And what BH looks like:

http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=307&picno=33240