(Topic ID: 245155)

Haunted House- 2 locked on coils

By pindude80

4 years ago


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  • 54 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by pindude80
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#5 4 years ago

Yes, I had a problem with my F4 blowing on Haunted house and it turned out to blow due to the pop bumber boards.

Each pop bumper is driven by its own driver board and they are known to be problematic. Most of the time reflowing cold solder joints on them will take care of the issue. Start by unplugging all of the pop bumpers and see if the fuse still blows. Then turn the game off and plug in one of the bumpers and see if it blows. Work your way around the game until you find the problem board, sometimes unplugging the molex and putting it back on will fix the issue, but it won't last long unless the connectors are reflowed.

Haunted House is an amazing game, but it sat broken as often as not.

#7 4 years ago

Unfortunately, I sold my game a while back and don't have the manual anymore. Do you have a copy of the schematics that show what is connected to F14?

#9 4 years ago

ok, this was from an old thread...

"Check Fuse F14 (it powers main playfield up kicker, right side kicker and trap door 24VDC) and replace with 2.5A slow blow if its bad."

So it is probably one of these three coil circuits causing the problem. It might be a bad transistor, but most of the time it isn't. Look for a ground short or connector on those three coils. I also would not completely rule out the pop boards.

#14 4 years ago
Quoted from pindude80:

I won't rule out the pop boards but do you think they could still be related to this problem?

Yes they could. For whatever reason, Gottlieb decided that sending the ground wire through the pop board would be a good idea...

#17 4 years ago
Quoted from pindude80:

I also found that a resistor is missing on the resistor bank on the lower playfield. I looked at the wire colors and one end goes to the saucer switch and the other goes to a target; I can't remember if it goes to a stand-up target or a leaf switch behind a rubber but definitely goes to a switch.

That might be part of the issue right there. You probably need to start testing the transistors that drive the coils too.

#19 4 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

That missing resistor is a diode for the switch matrix, not a resistor.

True, it looks like a zener diode. I suspect it was removed because it's one of the switches that drives the locked coil. Replacing it probably won't fix the coils, but it will need to be replaced before the game will play.

#28 4 years ago

Slightly out of range doesn't need to be replaced. No reading is bad. Change as few as possible and test before moving on to the next. It is easy to damage the boards or introduce new problems, even with a simple transistor swap. Try testing them multiple ways and see if you can get a reading. Often components are good, but test bad because the guides are not specific to your game.

When a transistor causes a locked on coil, it is generally shorted. A shorted transistor will read 1 and tone.

#42 4 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

I think it may be normal to have caps on high voltage kickers, but for testing it may be good to remove in case one is shorted.

The caps are supposed to be connected to high voltage coils. Capacitors smooth the current and protect the circuit. Newer games don't use them as often because the driver boards are better at sending regulated pulses.

#45 4 years ago

The more I look at those caps, they are absolutely incorrect. Unfortunately, I sold my game about a year ago and I'm working off of memory, but they are WAY off the values on the schematic.

#51 4 years ago

I would pull the caps off before trying it. The circuit is already jacked, not having the caps won't hurt it any worse than being locked on.

#53 4 years ago

Congratulations! Now it's time to roll her over!

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