I wish I had read all of Gwpin and finman2000 notes prior to performing the upgrades.

Mine took longer because I also replaced the rubber rings and cleaned the playfield. And I removed all cables without cutting the wires.

I also found that if I installed the GI boards as shown in the included diagram, then the connectors reached just fine. Of course, I discovered that after I went to connect them.

What has me annoyed is that the game is now darker than it was. The inserts are brighter and can be turned way up. But with my 7.5 V boards, if I increased the insert LEDs, the GI lights got brighter also. With WOZ 2.0, the GI lights do not increase nor decrease in brightness but they seem stuck on low brightness. Yes I played with positioning vs. the light tubes.

When I called JJP, they seemed surprised about my comment on GI brightness adjustment, but I confirmed that they do not increase with LED menu adjustments. I was told that in newer JJP games, GI brightness is a separate adjustment.

I guess they forgot to add that option in WOZ when they updated the software to work with WOZ 2.0.

I am looking forward to their response to my inquiry. Am hoping a quick and dirty, copy and paste of the GI adjustment software to WOZ will solve this problem. [Nothing is quick with software.]

In the meantime, I purchased an aftermarket LED lighting kit for the back of the playfield and the outhole. It works to make the game brighter but practically ruins the beautiful LED color show by not being in sync with the game. I do not recommend it.

I am running 6.61 as directed in the instructions.

I do not know what versions might support WOZ 2.0, but my understanding is that WOZ 2.0 will not work at all with earlier software.

Not sure I know what the 'Pinstadium - like approach' is.

I was wondering how much more current the power to the GI supply can stand. I was thinking of buying more GI boards and attaching them to the underside of the cabinet, then connecting them (somehow - connectors? what are they? where can I buy them?) to an existing GI feed. That way the color and brightness would match the GI's in the rest of the pin. But I don't want to blow out my new WOZ 2.0 boards.

If that is unworkable, come up with some sort of above the playfield installation list standard LED bulbs, connected to the WOZ 2.0 GI system.

But the best fix would be for JJP to incorporate GI brightness control.

The lights in WOZ 2.0 are setup differently from the original generations of LEDs in the game. There is a new power supply, but the connectors for the GI lights still come from the main boards. These main boards still have non-replaceable fuses in them. If I were to pursue adding GI lights, I would be pulling some more power through those boards and do not want to blow those fuses.

And unlike pre-2.0 lights, the GI brightness does not change with the insert brightness via menu.

I am not familiar with Pin Stadium lights, so I searched for their website. There is not a whole lot of information there about what it is. I found some pictures of before and after for WOZ. Their website is not very good about describing what their product does nor what a 'GI Module' does nor when it is needed. Their 'About' page is verbose with little specific information. Lousy marketing.

What I do not want is just 'dumb' lights that do not sync with the game. I can buy strips of LEDs and install them. I want is something that changes color and intensity in sync with the game. The color changes and bright / dark modes add a lot to WOZ. The ones I purchased that go under the back of the cabinet and outhole fight what WOZ is doing - just staying on and, the back, randomly changing color - 'dumb' lighting which is not WOZ computer controlled.

What I want are brighter existing GIs or lamps that change in sync with the GIs.

JJP has been great in supporting their products. I am hoping that they come through with a software adjustment of the GIs.

Thanks for the videos.

That the Pinstadium lights stay on during the 'dark mode' of the 2.0 game is exactly what I do not want.

I might, grudgingly, find them acceptable if they would turn on, brighten and dim with the GIs, even if they do not follow the color. This is what they do in bobukcat's game.
Great. Do I rip out 2.0 and put back in the 7 V lamps? Of course not.

In a perfect world, I would like them to mimic the GI's 100%.

I stand corrected. But those PS lights should dim. When I look at Lloyd's, it stays football stadium bright during the dark modes. Not my preference.

I like my room dim, so I am going to do something. The drain and back under the cabinet lights help, but still harm the game light effect. Maybe I will move those to another game and try PS?

Thanks, bobukcat and LTG for all that info on PS lights. If JJP does not straighten things out with the GI's on WOZ 2.0, it will be an option for me. Given JJP great track record of game support, I am hopeful.

I wish PS website had more information about operation of their mod. I would like to see more about controls / brightness levels / operation / setup. Videos can be misleading because camera's adjust to the lowest light level, but as they look in the videos, they are too bright.

I just got off the phone with JJP tech. They are very nice to spend so much time with me.

I have been informed that although the software does not change the brightness of the GI's, they are at full power and cannot be made brighter.

I cannot compare the 7.5V GI's and 2.0 side by side, but I swear that these new GI's are not as bright as the old ones. I have tried every physical orientation on the light tubes. The GI light under the slingshot is not nearly as bright as an insert LED off one of the boards, even when the LEDs are set to the lowest setting. That may be due to using the light tube for the GIs?

At this point, I might:

- Give up.
- Try modifying the light tubes (shining up the bottom?) to transmit more light.
- See if I can get a RGB lamp in shape of a bulb to hook up in place of these GI's and the lamp tube (not seeing any).

I have noticed that when the GI boards are screwed into the playfield, that they 'bow' a little bit. Perhaps this prevents the full brightness of the LED from shining up the tube? I thought I checked this but will revisit.

Being stubborn, I was thinking of taking measurements to the GI LEDs and the board LEDs to compare the voltages. Not sure if a DVM will suffice or I have to break out the scope?

The GI boards appear to use the same "LED, SMT, high power RGB 624/527/470 nm" as the main boards.
[As an aside, I think it is interesting that the resistor in series with the red is 75 ohms, while the others are 18 - to balance the color I expect?]