(Topic ID: 224189)

Has anyone installed woz 2.0 yet? I’m about to!

By pinballkyle

5 years ago


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#30 5 years ago

In step #15 it says to Snap 4 Nylon Spacers onto the back corners of the bag board and the Comms board. I'm assuming that means there should be a total of 8 spacers? My bag board had 4 white nylon spacers already attached, but my Comms board did not, and there wasn't any in the kit. Also the Nylon spacer #94-3011-00 wasn't even on the parts list.

Wondering if anyone ran into the same issue, or where your spacers were located in your kit. Any insight would be appreciated. I'm afraid I will have to wait until Monday to call Frank and have them shipped out.

Another thought. I guess I could cut a nylon post to size any use those until I get the correct spacers. You're just trying to avoid the board grounding to the mounting bracket?

#32 5 years ago
Quoted from marl3y:

My BAG and COMM boards already had spacers, although I didn't have any 3/8" spacers included for the new RGB GI boards. I could have bought some locally, but since I needed so many I bought from Amazon. In your case, you want the boards to stand clear of the bracket. I'd make something, as tolerances aren't critical and I'm impatient.

Thank you for the reply!

#33 5 years ago

Deleted

1 week later
#48 5 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

No. The old design is flawed and will eventually fail prematurely, board by board. The 7.5v buffered is the most reliable, but it is still flawed.

Agreed. I had 7.5v boards. I had two of the large light boards and one single LED board go bad in a short period of time. I'm so glad I installed the 2.0 kit and don't have to worry about boards going bad anymore.

#52 5 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I did the swap in a machine from 8/2013. There were some inconsistencies in the instructions I documented, but overall it wasn't hard, just time-consuming.
You need to call to get on the list. I don't know if they caught up, but I know it was like 3 months or so from the time I signed up for it and it actually came.

They had them in stock a couple weeks ago when I bought mine.

1 week later
#61 5 years ago

I recently completed a Woz 2.0 install on my machine with 7.5v buffered boards. Yes, even SOME of the machines with 7.5v buffered boards had issues with board failures. Unfortunately, my machine was one of those. A big thank you to Vireland for all of his great notes. Below are a few additional help notes I thought might help others.

Before powering down the machine to start the install, lower the winged monkey 1/2 way down the track so that it is away from the castle mini playfield.

The direction say to tape the drill bit at 5/16" to prevent the bit from drilling all the way through the playfield. The tape has a tendency to creep backward after several uses. A safer way to do this is to use a bit stop collar. Here is a link to a set Home Depot sells. https://www.homedepot.com/p/POWERTEC-1-8-in-3-16-in-1-4-in-5-16-in-3-8-in-7-16-in-1-2-in-Split-Ring-Stop-Collar-7-Piece-71199/307712516

In Step 2 the instructions refer to the data cables as black in color. My data cables were Grey. I'm assuming the 5v data cables were probably black.

In Step 7 the part # for the nylon spacer is 94-005204-12 and the #4 x 3/4" phillips SMS screw is 82-000004-12.

In Step 11 the RGB LED Single Board is now Part #15-0028-01. Vireland's kit had Part #15-00428-04

In step 17 it says to check the voltage of the power supply. Please make sure you do this. Mine was set to 220V. Also, it says to attach the power supply to the back wall of the cabinet. If you have the 7.5v boards you will notice there is not enough room to mount the power supply to the back wall. I found that the best place to install the power supply was on the left side wall in the rear as pictured below.power supply (resized).jpgpower supply (resized).jpg

Below are the brackets and machine screws I purchased from Home Depot to mount the power supply. I couldn't find short enough machine screws, so I cut them shorter with the bolt cutter slots of my wire strippers. screwsandbraces (resized).jpgscrewsandbraces (resized).jpg

In Step 20 it says to disconnect an existing 3-pin Molex AC power connection in the back of the lower cabinet. For the 7.5v machines you will not have a connector in the back of the machine. Use one of the 3 pin molex connectors running down the right side of the cabinet. molexconnect (resized).jpgmolexconnect (resized).jpg

As Vireland pointed out in his notes, some of the wire runs are just barely long enough to reach the various locations. The boards that I ran into issues with, or thought were very tight, I took pictures so you can see the optimal locations. The pictures that have the phillips head screw bit in them indicate the optimal location for the board, even though where I mounted them will just barely reach. I hope that makes sense?
lightboard159 (resized).jpglightboard159 (resized).jpg

If anyone runs into issues when installing their light boards, feel free to PM me and I will help you the best I can. Good luck!

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