(Topic ID: 224189)

Has anyone installed woz 2.0 yet? I’m about to!

By pinballkyle

10 months ago

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  • 197 posts
  • 48 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 days ago by Nokoro
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#10 10 months ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Just curious, if I may ask what is the cost of the 2.0 kit?

I believe they are still selling at $800 but that may (??) require you to return your old boards to JJP. The price is supposed to go up to $1200 at some point. I'll be following this one as I'm on the fence about doing this on mine.

OP - Good luck and please share lots of information and pics!

2 weeks later
#27 9 months ago

@GWpin thanks for the detailed run-down of your experiences with installing the kit. It really sucks that your BAG board was bad, I've had similar things happen and after all that work your first thought is "what the hell did I screw up?". Glad to hear that Frank and the crew at JJP took care of you, they're really patient and excellent at what they do.

2 months later
#67 6 months ago
Quoted from lhammer610:

Not sure I know what the 'Pinstadium - like approach' is.
I was wondering how much more current the power to the GI supply can stand. I was thinking of buying more GI boards and attaching them to the underside of the cabinet, then connecting them (somehow - connectors? what are they? where can I buy them?) to an existing GI feed. That way the color and brightness would match the GI's in the rest of the pin. But I don't want to blow out my new WOZ 2.0 boards.
If that is unworkable, come up with some sort of above the playfield installation list standard LED bulbs, connected to the WOZ 2.0 GI system.
But the best fix would be for JJP to incorporate GI brightness control.

It has been a while since I really messed with this part of WOZ but the "GI" boards are all part of the same strings as the insert lights. IIRC the only GI that runs off a separate power source are the spotlights so I don't know how you would have new GI boards that used that power but were color controlled by the string. I have a set of Pin Stadiums on mine so I no longer have to worry about the lack of GI which is an issue with all boardsets on this game if you play in a dark room IMO.

#70 6 months ago
Quoted from lhammer610:

The lights in WOZ 2.0 are setup differently from the original generations of LEDs in the game. There is a new power supply, but the connectors for the GI lights still come from the main boards. These main boards still have non-replaceable fuses in them. If I were to pursue adding GI lights, I would be pulling some more power through those boards and do not want to blow those fuses.
And unlike pre-2.0 lights, the GI brightness does not change with the insert brightness via menu.
I am not familiar with Pin Stadium lights, so I searched for their website. There is not a whole lot of information there about what it is. I found some pictures of before and after for WOZ. Their website is not very good about describing what their product does nor what a 'GI Module' does nor when it is needed. Their 'About' page is verbose with little specific information. Lousy marketing.
What I do not want is just 'dumb' lights that do not sync with the game. I can buy strips of LEDs and install them. I want is something that changes color and intensity in sync with the game. The color changes and bright / dark modes add a lot to WOZ. The ones I purchased that go under the back of the cabinet and outhole fight what WOZ is doing - just staying on and, the back, randomly changing color - 'dumb' lighting which is not WOZ computer controlled.
What I want are brighter existing GIs or lamps that change in sync with the GIs.
JJP has been great in supporting their products. I am hoping that they come through with a software adjustment of the GIs.

I'll try not to derail this with too much Pin Stadium talk but they are two sets of LED rails that mount, via magnets on the sides of the game, just under the glass channel and are controlled by a module that sits in the cabinet. Each rail has a strip of custom made warm white alternating with RGB LEDs. The app controls the color of the RGB and the brightness of the RGB and Warm White separately. The optional GI module allows them to go on and off with the GI but the color cannot be controlled that way. The optional flasher module which intersperses Flasher (you choose the color of the flasher when you order) LEDs in the strip can be hooked up to only a few spots on WOZ (because there's really only one flasher and that's for the Witch). Pre 2.0 the GI module did some really cool integration with the game but in the videos that LTG posted of them on WOZ with 2.0 that stuff doesn't happen anymore. This is either good or bad depending on how you look at it. If you just use them to provide better GI and don't crank them up too high the overall lighting effects in the game still look really great. Here is a short video I shot of mine with the GI and UV Glow Flasher Module on my WOZRR (non 2.0):

/Pin Stadium discussion

#72 6 months ago
Quoted from lhammer610:

Thanks for the videos.
That the Pinstadium lights stay on during the 'dark mode' of the 2.0 game is exactly what I do not want.
I might, grudgingly, find them acceptable if they would turn on, brighten and dim with the GIs, even if they do not follow the color. This is what they do in bobukcat's game.
Great. Do I rip out 2.0 and put back in the 7 V lamps? Of course not.
In a perfect world, I would like them to mimic the GI's 100%.

I thought the same but if you look the GI lights do NOT go out during lights out mode, only the inserts lights do. So the P.S. actually mimics GI better in 2.0 than in older versions. In the older versions it dims or goes out completely in all of the C.B. mode, munchkin modes and even during battle the witch and probably others I'm not thinking of right now. This is what I meant when I said it's a matter of opinion if the integration in this game is a good thing or bad thing. Regardless I think it's very well done and nearly a must have for WOZ unless it's in a very well lit room, not everyone agrees of course. Good luck with your quest, perhaps the wizard will grant your request!

3 months later
#131 89 days ago

Playing my WOZRR the other night and two more of the small GI boards have lost a color or two, sigh. Luckily these are the only ones that have given me trouble over the years but it is getting worse and if I have to keep buying boards that's going to add up so I think I'm going to take the plunge and order conversion kit. Thanks for all the feedback and information from those of you that have shared it!

#141 89 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I do think it is weather related at least to some extent. I live in New England. I have zero problems in the spring and summer. However, every year when the air starts getting dry, around November, I start to have problems. I think if you live in a more humid climate then you have less issues.

I don't doubt that is true, mine is on carpet in my basement and getting a static shock when walking up to it is not unusual at all. Since I've only had problems (so far) with the single GI boards and I have had some limited success reflowing solder on the boards (they eventually fail again) I had planned to just try to live with it. However when one really goes bad and sends the rest of them down the chain bonkers it's a real problem so I decided to bite the bullet and do the upgrade.

#149 83 days ago

I'm about 85-90% of the way done with mine, have been really taking my time and doing additional maintenance / cleaning / waxing while I'm at it. One question for those that have done it - where did you mount the new power supply? The instructions say on the bottom of the cab but there is no place where it will fit on my RR version. So far the only place I've found it will fit and still connect to the power input harness is on the right hand side between the wall and the transformer but I'm hesitant to install it there for heat / ventilation purposes.

#152 83 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Look at post no. 61. I followed that lead and mounted to the left side.
I hope to finish on Saturday. I only have the munchkin playfield and the data wiring left to go. Keeping my fingers crossed.

Thanks, I figured that cutting that harness loose allows for mounting over there, really appreciate everyone sharing their experiences as this is not a "follow the bouncing ball" ordeal even for someone really used to being under the playfield!

#153 83 days ago
Quoted from DG_Amuse:

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Nice! I just finished the last of my wiring and fired it up to test with coin door open, two wireforms not re-installed etc. and at when I went into LED test they weren't even close to corresponding to the screen. Then I remembered I hadn't gone from 6.60 to 6.61, quick upgrade, two wires switched and everything looks to be great! Have to finish some clean-up and waxing the top-side, re-install the two wireforms, deploy a crap-ton of cable-ties to the under-side and then start play-testing it. I have Pin Stadiums so it's no issue for me but I do think the GI may indeed be darker now, just really happy I don't have to worry about 1/2 - 3/4 of the LEDs going crazy on us for league kick-off next month!

#154 82 days ago

To add my thoughts suggestions to the already great advice in this thread:

If I were to do this again I think I would do a couple things differently. After replacing all the large boards I would not go replace all the individual boards in order as the instructions have you do it. Instead I would first install the BAG and interface boards in the middle then use the 2.0 wiring diagram in the manual and work from one large board to the next, plugging in the "satellite" cables and replace the individual boards with those cables in place so I could see exactly where to mount the boards, how to route the cable, etc. I'd work from each board in the order the cable progresses, I think that would be simpler and a little cleaner personally.

I'll also add that my kit did not have enough #4-1/2 inch screws and that screws from Home Depot are complete crap, they strip out incredibly easy! There was a bag of smaller #4s but those were never listed as being used in the instructions. The mounting hardware for my power supply was not #8 as the manual lists but rather M4 as Vireland stated, the #8s won't tighten down properly. Lastly I think they should include a new rubber mount for the Rainbow plastic that keeps that light pipe in place, mine very nearly ripped in two while I was taking it apart even though I was trying to be very careful with it.

#157 82 days ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

So, I'm on the fence about this 2.0 system. my WOZ has 7.5 buffered boards and (knock on wood) I haven't had any issues.
The thought of paying $800 plus the time... potential install pitfalls.. of 2.0.... phew. I don't know. Is it really a necessary swap?

How long have you had your game? Mine also had the 7.5 buffered boards but after about a year, maybe slightly less, I started having problems. My game is in home but it gets played a lot. My problems started with the GI boards that are closest to the flippers, but as has been noted the biggest issue with this system is that problems with one board can knock out an entire section(s) of the game and that's what was happening with mine. I managed to reflow solder on some of them but it was temporary fix and the problems came back. Then I started losing single colors (usually blue) on individual GI boards so they could no longer produce white, again I was able to temporarily fix them but the problems came back so replaced 5-6 of them. Then last year during my league hosting date I had one fail and send half the inserts into seizure mode, I managed to bypass it long enough to get through the day but that was pretty much the final straw for me. I almost didn't order it even still but then two weeks ago I was about as close to SWOTR as I've been and again the whole thing went bonkers so I shut off the game, grabbed my laptop and ordered the kit.

If you've never had problems you may get lucky and not have to do the swap, but if you plan to keep the game long-term like I do I think it's just a matter of time before you start having problems. At a minimum I'd suggest you buy some spare individual GI boards to keep on hand, I'd over to sell you some of mine but based on my experiences above I'd doubt you'd want them. My large boards have never had a problem so I do plan to sell some of those to recoup the cost of the upgrade.

#162 82 days ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

I've owned my WOZ for over 4 years.
Here's a lazy question (I'm sure this info is somewhere):
If I buy the 2.0 kit just to hold onto... is there a solid parts list somewhere that I can use to check for completeness? It would totally suck to buy it and then find out 2 or 3 years down the road that it was missing parts, etc.
I talked to Butch about year or so ago and he told me JJP was stock piling parts/chips for old boards. But, honestly, there's a part of me that wonders if JJP will stay in business long term. IF they fail (for whatever reason), that could create quite a problem.

The kit comes with a packing list you check off to make sure everything is there. However there is no guarantee that you couldn't have a bad board or two in there, see previous post about defective BAG board (which runs the whole lighting kit) OOB.

#165 82 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

It's $800 out of pocket, but if most or all of your current boards are working, you can likely sell a full set of them (and the jumper cables) for around $300 (I did), bringing the total cost to about $500, which is not much more than a color DMD mod. And this is much more valuable.

Would you mind sharing how you sold yours (here, EBay, etc.)? I now have a bunch of boards and cables but I did not save the large wiring harness. All of my large and single RGB boards work perfectly, I have about 4 bad GI boards but also one brand new one and not really sure if I should try to sell them as a set, individual boards, groups of boards, etc. I would really like to get something back out of them though.

#169 81 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Well, I finished, and it works! (Mostly.) Insert muted clapping and celebration.
It appears I have two bad LEDs -- one on the W7 board which is yellow when it should be a different color, and one of the little GI boards which works in test mode but is purple in actual game play when it should be white. I guess I'll email JJP about replacements unless anyone has any ideas of things to try first. Let me know.
When I finished and first flipped the power switch, absolutely nothing happened. I was worried that somehow I disconnected the main power. I checked the connections, and it looked good, so I flipped the switch again. This time, the main power came on and the game booted, but all of the lights were scrambled. I went through the LED test light by light and each switched on in a different location. I turned off the machine and checked my hook up of all the cables. Everything looked good. So, I switched on the machine again, and I guess third times the charm because that time, everything worked as it should (with the exception of the two faulty boards). Anyone know what was going on there?
(I'll post my detailed notes, timeline and tips a little later.)

Be sure you're running 6.61 and not 6.60.

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