If you're referring to the light boards, it's been discussed recently in the woz value thread and it sounds like a chore.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/currrent-market-value-for-woz#post-4562000

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/currrent-market-value-for-woz#post-4562016

It is a chore - about 12 hours worth, first time blind. Are you doing it on a RR or an ECLE? Know before you start that you need 2 small L-brackets, 2 wood screws (to hold the L bracket to the cab, and 2 metric screws (to go into the new power supply). These are not included in the kit, and they don't tell you at the start.

Also, you can do the whole thing without cutting any wires. I preserved the wiring harness (I am crazy like that). The instructions had some issues due to the multiple versions of WoZ builds over time, they're all not exactly the same (even with 1.0 light kits).

I made a bunch of notes as I went and sent them to JJP to improve/clarify the instructions. Not sure if they were implemented. If you want, I can post them.

Also, while you're in there, if you replace the fan on the upper left side of the metal case you can REALLY quiet your machine. The stock one is over 30db. A replacement is in the 12-15db range. This is the one I bought to replace it with:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NEMG62M

WoZ Fan upgrade (resized).jpg

You need to convert the connector to a 2 pin on the new fan, but it's not hard and well worth the effort. Get an adapter if you don't want to dig in. After this change, the fan in the LCD screen in the head is the loudest thing in the machine. I will likely replace it too. The cabinet is SUBSTANTIALLY quieter with just changing out this one fan on the metal case.

Switch on the side of the new power supply you need to set:
voltage-switch (resized).jpg

Close-up picture of the wiring you need to end up with on the new power supply (including a black jumper wire you need to supply yourself:
new_power_supply_wiring (resized).jpg

Mounting the new power supply to the back wall of the cabinet using the L-brackets, 2 Pan head wood screws, and 2 4-M4 screws.
2.0-lightkit-power-supply (resized).jpg

Was not clear exactly where J802 is in the instructions. It's here:
Step 18-PCB J802 Diagram (resized).jpg

These are pretty raw, I didn't clean them up, but the information is all there. Note the L-bracket and metric screw size you'll need to secure the new switching power supply to the cabinet that aren't included...

General notes:
The part number for the single plug black wires is wrong on the wires. It says 19-3096-09, but the diagram from the current manual (page E-22/23) identifies the short black leads as 19-3096-08. Either the manual or the part needs to be changed so they agree

Somehow I came up short on 1/2" and 3/4" screws by a few. I didn't count at the beginning, so I'm not sure if the amount provided isn't enough, or if my kit just didn't have enough screws in the bags.

Some of the leads are too short for the lighting plugs. I had to move boards at the end of the instructions that I installed near the beginning, and even then a few BARELY had enough wire and too much tension. Lights 3 and 12 specifically. Probably should be made 2" longer at least.

Might want to mention at the beginning that the customer needs to buy a couple small L brackets and two 4-M4 screws plus 2 pan head wood screws for the new switching supply they'll be installing as they're not included in the kit.

Step 6.The warning “DO NOT remove all the large boards at once – if you do...” needs to be at the BEGINNING of the FIRST paragraph after the 6>. Putting it on the second paragraph is too late for awesome people like me. Fortunately (?) I’ve spent so much time with these boards, I can see the placement in my head with my eyes closed, so it was no biggie, but for less confident users, this could be annoying/problematic the way it is now.

Also, on the 2nd paragraph of step 6, you’re asking to use #4 ½” SMS, but the screws are labeled with the PART NUMBER not the SIZE on the bags. So the screws should have the part number listed next to the size (“#4 ½” SMS [82-000004-08]” for example) in the instructions and/or the bags of screws should have the size of the screws printed on them along with the part number.

For step 7, it's a similar suggestion to step 6 beginning to make the warning more clear about removing and replacing one by one in order instead of talking about how to take them all out in order one by one in order so you don't miss one. It becomes more clear after the 2nd paragraph of 7>, but some of that information could be moved to the beginning of 7>.

The second paragraph of step 7 talks about installing single RGB GI board 15-0051-00. This doesn't exist. What's in the kit is part number 15-004151-04, which is a strip of 8 boards you need to snap off into individual boards. This isn't covered in the instructions at all. The packing slip also has the part number listed as 15-004151-04. The only place where it's called 15-0051-00 is on step 7. Also the packing slip says there are 24, when in reality there are 3 strips of 8 you have to break off into 24 pieces, so that's not quite right, either.

Also, on Step 7 it should say something about board 11 that will be dealt with later. Something like "(Calm your titties, board 11 will be replaced in Step 14)"

Step 9 in the instructions needs quite a few changes
The part number on the instructions are 15-0028-00. The part number of the parts in the box are 15-004128-04. Also, the parts in the box need to be snapped apart, which is not discussed in the instructions.
Also:
1- The part number for the 4-40 1/4" screws (80-002104-04) should be added to the instructions, and the screw size should be added to the part bag label for better matching.
2- The part number for the insulating paper (70-009010-00) should be added to the instructions and maybe add "insulator" to the parts bag label for better matching.
3- The part number for the new mounting bracket for the rollovers (10-000155-00) should be added to the instructions and maybe add "rollover bracket" to the parts bag label for better matching.

Step 10
Part number 15-0028-00 is wrong. It should be 15-00428-04. #4 1/2" screws should have part number noted (82-000004-08).

Step 11
Part number 15-0028-00 is wrong. It should be 15-00428-04. #4 1/2" screws should have part number noted (82-000004-08).

Step 12
Terminology is wrong here. It says to use Single GI RGB LED boards, but it's actually talking about using 15-00428-04 RGB LED boards in the just- made GI RGB rollover brackets.

Step 14
Part number 15-0028-00 is wrong. It should be 15-00428-04. #4 1/2" screws should have part number noted (82-000004-08).

Step 15
The part number for the PCB mounting bracket should be noted next to its name in the instructions (10-005035-00)

STEP 18
For Step 18, it's actually better to leave the playfield UP initially until J802 is disconnected because it's at the front of the PCB box, toward the coin door. Once the cable is disconnected and slipped out of the zip ties, THEN lay the playfield down to pull the cord out the back of the PCB box. Also, a copy of the printed diagram from the manual showing WHERE J802 IS would be very helpful, it's kind of hidden by a wad of cables and not easy to find visually. I've attached a screen grab to include with the update.

Also, the instructions say to pull J800, but no word about JUSB next to that, which is also a mini-USB connector. On the Computer CPU board end, both these are wired to the same plug. NOTE: YOU ONLY PULL ONE OF THEM - the J800, even if they're physically connected on the computer board end like they are on early ECLEs.

(The problem is both the JUSB and J800 are the same cable, split into two cables at the header block on the PC motherboard. So the instructions to remove just the J800 is wrong because the best you can do if you have to keep JUSB is to just disconnect J800 since they’re physically the same cable. If you have this configuration, you leave it plugged in on the computer header end and just unplug J800 usb on the other end and zip tie the connector aside, leaving the JUSB plugged in.)

STEP 19
Where is the Mini-b end of the 6ft USB cable you connect to the back of the CPU board supposed to be plugged in? J800? JUSB? It doesn't say. Also, the 6ft USB 2.0 to Mini-b cable needs the part number listed (19-003100-06).

I haven’t had any problems with my Woz. I think it has the 5v second gen boards? Unbuffered? I’ve had it in the back of my mind to buy the 2.0 kit, but after reading how involved it is I think I’ll just wait to see if I have problems.

Just curious, if I may ask what is the cost of the 2.0 kit?

I believe they are still selling at $800 but that may (??) require you to return your old boards to JJP. The price is supposed to go up to $1200 at some point. I'll be following this one as I'm on the fence about doing this on mine.

OP - Good luck and please share lots of information and pics!

Ugh, this may put me over the edge to buy the kit, although I would prefer just to put them in storage in case my older boards fail. If I have to return the old boards, that's not going to work.

The only thing that concerns me is drilling the PF to set the larger light tubes and avoiding messing up the clear coat. Any tips for that part?

You don't do that. Existing holes/light tubes are used.

LTG : )

Whoah, OK then! Somebody had brought that up in earlier threads, good to know thanks Lloyd

You don't drill anything on the top of the PF so no clearcoat worries. The only drilling is to place the new light boards close to the hole underneath.

After eventually replacing all the light boards in the machine over 2 years, then still having problems start up again less than 6 months later I was all about getting on to 2.0. So far, so good. I definitely recommend it, too.

You DEFINITELY drill the underside of the PF for all GI. They have you limit your bit with wound masking tape. It’s terrifying. You’ll get used to it.

The recent responses have been about drilling new bigger holes for the GI light tubes, which isn't done. Not about mounting the small GI boards under the playfield.

LTG : )

That rules. Wonder where that rumor got started? I have zero issues drilling new holes for the boards, this sounds a lot like the total lightshow package for Met Pro ( which I kind of enjoyed installing) multiplied by a lot of extra boards LOL... need to remove the upper PF’s to install my cliffies regardless.

Waiting to receive my longer cables from PinMonk to see how many boards I lost in the move and I’ll figure out the best plan of attack. If it’s just one I’ll probably stick with the 7.5 for now.

I actually put in a ticket first thing Monday with JJP to request to buy the cables (and work out a couple gremlins) and have had zero response aside from a form email acknowledging the request. How long does it usually take for them to get back to a request? This is my first JJP and not sure how things work.

Thanks all!

You’ll be better off calling them directly to order the cables and talk with tech support, for some reason tickets aren’t addressed the way they used to be.

Thanks, didn’t want to be pushy. Will give ‘em a ring this week

Side note, even with 75% of the lights out this game is absolutely mind blowing!

Can’t wait to see her all lit up.

I am a newbie when it comes to work on pinball machines. I did the 2.0 conversion on my WOZ ECLE a couple weeks ago and here are my reflections. I'll make this long because somebody else will want the detail:

- The overall job from removing the lockdown bar the first time to firing up the machine with the new boards (more on that in a moment under PROBLEMS below) was about 11 hours for me. I was being very careful, going only in sequence of the boards, and checking off instructions as I went. I wanted my machine to be as close to factory as it could be, so I printed board numbers with a label printer and ensured everything I un-cable tied was cabled tied and clipped back as before. I could probably do the job a second time in 75% of the time. An expert with a helper could probably do this job in 5 - 6 hours or faster.

- None of the pilot hole drilling is in any way "dangerous" to the playfield if you follow the instructions and ensure that your drill bit is wrapped with masking tape to limit its "range." The only drilling is on the back side of the playfield and only for pilot holes since you have to reposition screws for the new GI LED boards that are much smaller than the old ones, and have to drill pilots for a few new installs as well. But, if you decided to "freehand" your drill without limiting the bit depth, you could absolutely drill through the playfield, which would be awful.

- The thing that is dangerous to the playfield and that I would watch very closely is that you use shorter screws for the new LED boards vs. the old, and the new boards are much thinner than the old. So, if you do "screw up" and use the old screws, you WILL go through the playfield. The instructions are very clear on this in multiple places. I was very careful to throw out old screws and ensure all new screws were checked for length twice before installation.

- The instructions are ambiguous when it comes to the I/O board inside the aluminum case. The instructions say remove a mini usb cable from the I/O board, along with another plug, and then remove that usb cable from the PC motherboard as well. My machine (an ECLE) had that usb cable "married" to another and connected to the pc board in one spot. The solution is to unplug the single cable from the I/O board as instructed, but to leave the "married" end plugged into the PC motherboard and the partner mini-usb cable plugged into the I/O board. I just printed a "removed from service" label and put it on the mini-usb end left dangling.

PROBLEMS and watch-outs

- The kit I received had a "BAG" board that was DOA. The BAG board is the brains of the operation that takes the usb feed from the PC and controls all the other LED boards via a comms hub. I, of course, didn't know it was going to be DOA, but got to go through the letdown of 11 hours of work to then firing up the machine to exactly zero LED activity. I did a round of troubleshooting across the whole install, and ensured that I had proper voltages to all boards (there are two voltages delivered to most of the boards except the BAG board IIRC). I noted that there were no active LEDs on any boards except one (WOZ 7). If I had known the location of the power indicator LED on the BAG board, I would have known it was dead a long time before I stopped troubleshooting. IF YOU INSTALL THE BAG BOARD ON YOUR MACHINE AND IT SHOWS NO LIGHT ON THE BOARD WHEN FIRED UP ALTHOUGH IT IS RECEIVING POWER, YOU PROBABLY HAVE A DEAD BOARD. There, I've said it loud and clear so that the next person doesn't spend hours looking for problems that are only solved with new hardware. I stopped and got in contact with Frank at JJP tech support. We guessed quickly that it was the BAG board (he had one other instance of this happening before mine), I got a new one within 3 days, and the moment I plugged it in, all the LEDs fired up (change out of that board probably took 5 mins). LTG AND JJP TECH SUPPORT (FRANK) WERE EXCELLENT ON ALL THIS.

- In my kit, the WOZ 7 board was the ONLY LED board that has an active LED light side that shows power supply on the backside (service side) of the playfield. That was confusing, especially during my troubleshooting, because there is a hole in each large board that is supposed to have an LED that shows "green" for fuse = good. I spent a lot of time looking for power issues to the other boards that I would not have spent had I known that the fuse indicator LED hole was inactive on those. It also was a distraction from the BAG board issue above. This was not a problem, just a watch out.

- The mini-playfield removal is probably the biggest chore (x2) in the whole effort, and that's not because of the kit. Like the rest of this, there is a learning curve and if you've done it before, it's really easy, but I was double careful and took a lot of time. STILL, the new LED boards with their cat-5 cables present a new challenge since they are bulkier and can obstruct the orbit on the main playfield if you aren't careful. I had to re-remove my castle playfield and re-tie the cables so that they were clearly out of the way of the orbit after realizing ball travel wasn't clean. I do not count that as install time (above) because I wasn't careful. Again, not a problem, a watch out.

- The instructions for the little satellite GI LED boards say you can position them anywhere around the GI hole, but it's not true. You will be constrained in a couple of cases by the length of wire that will run from the parent board to the satellite GI board. Look at the wiring diagram and err on the side of installing nearer to the parent board. I had maybe 3 small boards that I actually had to remove, re-pilot, and re-install (probably 10 mins wasted since at that point I wasn't "scared" of drilling, etc.) in order to make the connector reach the board. This might have had something to do with my cabling approach, but watch out for it. This was a bit of a problem with the instructions.

My advice:

- Read the instructions and read Vireland's adds to them BEFORE you start. There are some steps that are out of sync in the instructions and it's good to know them ahead of time.

- Ensure you have plenty of room to lay out the new parts AND the old parts. Like anything else, it's good to ensure you have things sequestered. There are only a few parts that are re-used, and those are mainly a specific type of sheet metal screws. Most of the other screws, wires, and parts are removed (or destroyed if you follow the instructions to a "t." They want you to cut all the data cables to make it easy for removal. I probably cut 3 of them, but was fanatical about cable ties).

Overall this was not very hard to do at all. With some patience and organization, it went very smoothly. The bad board I received in the kit dampened the excitement of starting the machine up and cost me some time, but stuff happens and JJP was great in the swap of that board.

Now I have a bunch of 5V boards that need a home.

I apologize in advance. I own an early WOZ and have had no problems to report. What I'm getting from this thread is a strong suggestion to buy a 2.0 kit to upgrade the boards at the tune of $800?? I don't get it. Why isn't this a mandatory recall versus buyer paying $800 more? Confused in Chicago.

It would be very expensive for JJP to proactively replace all of the boards in all of the WOZ in the field. Why would they do that when many, like yours, do not have problems? I do agree that it would be much better for them to offer a swap for owners that have had problems, rather than making us shell out to repair what seems to be caused by a marginal design.

@GWpin thanks for the detailed run-down of your experiences with installing the kit. It really sucks that your BAG board was bad, I've had similar things happen and after all that work your first thought is "what the hell did I screw up?". Glad to hear that Frank and the crew at JJP took care of you, they're really patient and excellent at what they do.

All

Converting a WOZ RR7.5v to 2.0. Going very smoothly. But having a little trouble figuring out where to mount the new power supply. Does not seem to be an obvious place for it as described in the instructions. Any pics would be appreciated. Thanks.

No pics, but I ended up with mine against the back wall of the cabinet (center back against the floor). Mine already had the old power supply there because it was the 5v version.

In step #15 it says to Snap 4 Nylon Spacers onto the back corners of the bag board and the Comms board. I'm assuming that means there should be a total of 8 spacers? My bag board had 4 white nylon spacers already attached, but my Comms board did not, and there wasn't any in the kit. Also the Nylon spacer #94-3011-00 wasn't even on the parts list.

Wondering if anyone ran into the same issue, or where your spacers were located in your kit. Any insight would be appreciated. I'm afraid I will have to wait until Monday to call Frank and have them shipped out.

Another thought. I guess I could cut a nylon post to size any use those until I get the correct spacers. You're just trying to avoid the board grounding to the mounting bracket?

My BAG and COMM boards already had spacers, although I didn't have any 3/8" spacers included for the new RGB GI boards. I could have bought some locally, but since I needed so many I bought from Amazon. In your case, you want the boards to stand clear of the bracket. I'd make something, as tolerances aren't critical and I'm impatient.

Thank you for the reply!

Deleted

It would be an extremely nice gesture if JJP offered the kit, at the initial/reduced price to any original buyers and those who have had documented issues, at any point in the future as I don't really want to drop coin on the kit at this point. We have a POTC coming and that has been costly enough for the time being

I don't know that it is too much to ask for an open extension on the 2.0 kit pricing. Some may think that it sounds like a tall order but I had one off board issues initially, replaced some here and there over months and eventually we did a 'care package' approach and they shipped me a box of boards (5v with filter/buffer). I replaced all of the pass-through boards including the ones previously replaced and have had zero issues since. Frank, Jen and Team were very nice to work with through this but it was painful waiting and working through the one of issues with the failing boards. It is nice to play the pin with family and friends without issues but that said, it is always on my mind that the issues can come back even with these replacement boards. Just my 2 cents, let me know if this is too much to ask for.

I had a very early production WOZECLE with the 5 volt boards. Never had an issue with it but sold it to another collector. I then wanted the new RR edition , so I waited until the 2.0 boards were in production and bought one.

Unlikely to happen. Also, if all your boards are good, selling all of them as a set offsets the cost of the 2.0 kit by a good amount, making it much more affordable in the end. I *highly* recommend doing it, especially if you have the 5v boards. You WILL have problems eventually, and the 2.0 kit is great.

You mean like $800, instead of $1200, which will be the price at some point ?

LTG : )

I have been on the fence about it, honestly. Do I just sell the full pin off it off, without any issues and buy a 2.0 when one comes up or do I go through the install? People also don't factor in their time on that job, serious hours bent over a pin to complete.

So the price of the kit right now is $800USD, no trade-in on the boards? What is a functional used set of 5v or 7.5v (buffered/filtered) going for?

Correct, $800USD (~$1075CDN + shipping, + Tax). I have a POTC coming (dropped a lot of coin on that) so hopefully I don't have an issue with my WOZECLE for some time. If I do then I spend the cash later as opposed to spending it now when I am not currently experiencing an issue. It would be nice if that was the price at a later point based on the scenarios that I gave. Otherwise, it is $1200USD (~$1600CDN +shipping, +tax).

If that's the case then I should sell while it is without any issues but that is extremely unfortunate that early adopters have to carry that anxiety about a known issue which now has been remedied. Again, in this case I am looking for input from owners.

I’m holding off getting the kit as with the exception of replacing a couple GI boards my game has been trouble free. Sounds like you have a solid game - I’m a believer that if it ain’t broken don’t fix it. I’d stick with it.

That is exactly what I would like to do, just enjoy it now. It's the $1200USD that concerns me later

If you get in while it's $800 and sell your complete working set for $300-$400, you're looking at $400-$500 for peace of mind. That's not much more than invisiglass, and if you have the 5v system, it's not a question of IF but WHEN it will fail.

Probably too late for you, but I added a picture of this mounting to the post with the other component pictures near the top of the thread.

No worries. Actually finished it today but had installed the PS just as you had as well. Seemed to be the way to do it.

Thanks

i'm looking into it now as it would be piece of mind.

So what is the consensus with the 7.5V buffered/filtered set? Were these in fact any better than the 5V in the end?

No. The old design is flawed and will eventually fail prematurely, board by board. The 7.5v buffered is the most reliable, but it is still flawed.

Thanks for the detail!

I am awaiting details from Frank and pulling the trigger. I will have it regardless of whether I decide to sell and upgrade models or install the kit. It's likely moot if I don't have to send my boards back to buy the kit and the kit is likely to increase in price. Thanks to all who responded.

Agreed. I had 7.5v boards. I had two of the large light boards and one single LED board go bad in a short period of time. I'm so glad I installed the 2.0 kit and don't have to worry about boards going bad anymore.

I have a very early build ECLE (manufacture date of 5/1/2013). I had 2 small boards fail years ago, but all the light boards seem to be working fine since, although my collection sees very little play. Nevertheless, I would like to buy the 2.0 light boards to have them just in case. I don't see them listed in the WOZ parts on the JJP website. Are they only available if you call them? Is there anything different or any problems with switching out my light boards in such an early build machine?

Call them.

Instructions are the same, no matter if your game is early or not.

LTG : )