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(Topic ID: 224189)

Has anyone installed woz 2.0 yet? I’m about to!


By pinballkyle

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 329 posts
  • 70 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by zaphX
  • Topic is favorited by 59 Pinsiders

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There have been 38 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

WOZ DIMPLER (resized).png
Dimpler1 (resized).jpg
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GI LED CENTERED (resized).jpg
WOZ 2.0 LIGHT KIT DIMPLER (resized).jpg
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There are 329 posts in this topic. You are on page 7 of 7.
#301 8 months ago
Quoted from PinballCharlie:

I'm working on a tool that I am going to 3D print this week that will be able to easily and precisely mark where to drill your pilot hole for the single RGB boards. This is important not only to save time time, but will increase the effectiveness of your GI lighting - which is really important for this kit since GI is already so dim.
I'll update this thread once I get a tested prototype in my hands.

Please let me know when this is done . I will buy one.

11
#302 8 months ago
Quoted from Lawnboy:

Please let me know when this is done . I will buy one.

Got it almost done! Man, I wish I would have made this thing BEFORE I did the install. Not only will this save a LOT of time, it will PRECISELY locate your pilot holes so your GI LEDs are perfectly centered over the lens, also it may change the world .

I want to experiment with the model a bit to make sure it is perfect, but will upload to Thingiverse tomorrow so anyone can download the .STL file and print for FREE!

I'll see about getting this up on my store here on Pinside for those who don't have access to a 3D printer. You definitely will want to use this before drilling your GI pilot holes (I speak from experience )

WOZ 2.0 LIGHT KIT DIMPLER (resized).jpgDimpler1 (resized).jpgdimple1 (resized).jpgGI LED CENTERED (resized).jpg
#303 8 months ago

I'm interested.

#304 8 months ago
Quoted from PinballCharlie:

Got it almost done!

Great invention ! Thank you !
LTG : )

#305 8 months ago

Great invention. Getting those lights properly aligned is a total PIA. I’d probably buy one just to recheck my work, as my GI brightness definitely took a hit post install.

#306 8 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Great invention ! Thank you !
LTG : )

You bet - anything to make the install more pleasant! To me, that was the worse part of the install - getting those pilot holes in the perfect spot, especially the hard to reach ones that are buried behind wire harnesses. If they are off by even 1.5mm, the brightness of the already dim GI lights will be lessened.

#307 8 months ago
Quoted from PinballCharlie:

Got it almost done! Man, I wish I would have made this thing BEFORE I did the install. Not only will this save a LOT of time, it will PRECISELY locate your pilot holes so your GI LEDs are perfectly centered over the lens, also it may change the world .
I want to experiment with the model a bit to make sure it is perfect, but will upload to Thingiverse tomorrow so anyone can download the .STL file and print for FREE!
I'll see about getting this up on my store here on Pinside for those who don't have access to a 3D printer. You definitely will want to use this before drilling your GI pilot holes (I speak from experience )[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That is awesome ! I wish I had it when I installed my leds, it would have saved me some serious time and pain bending myself all around to try and figure where the light fits !

#308 8 months ago

Here it is! The WOZ Lighting Upgrade Kit 2.0 GI Dimpler Tool

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4157116

Should be an easy print - I recommend using PLA as it will make a sharper point and be more accurate than ABS. PETG may be too soft.

For those without a 3D printer, I think you can get things printed at a local library, or you can buy from my store here on Pinside after I set it up later today. I'll post in here when they are available.

I'll include three dimplers in the pack (the tip may start to getting worn out after awhile). Cost will be $13 - plus $7 domestic shipping.

WOZ DIMPLER (resized).png
#310 8 months ago
Quoted from adol75:

Same here, my Tin Man board died, so I went for the 2.0 kit, sold my older boards for 250$, which left me with a 550$ bill. Not a bad deal all together for permanently sorting out the light issue on that game and not feeling worried everytime I turn the game on.
Unlike others here, I got screwed by my distributor who sold me a 1.1 version when I specifically asked to confirm it was a 2.0 (and got confirmation), so I cursed him instead of JJP !
You should go through this thread, on top of following the instructions; there are a few other catches that are not mentioned in the instructions, the cable under the castle playfield, the cable that goes to the Oz lane sign, and a few others I can't recall.
The one part to pay attention to, is how you position each small led board and center the light under the inserts, it has a serious impact on the light shines, I do believe that some of the complaints of the brightness of the 2.0 kit come from not correctly positioning the lights. Its 'annoying but worth putting special attention to it.
I ended up having fun doing it, it didn't feel like a chore, more like going through Lego instructions and enjoying the scene of the work coming together

So I'm guessing the 2.0 lighting doesn't make it any easier to remove the castle for servicing?

#311 8 months ago
Quoted from Sammy31:

So I'm guessing the 2.0 lighting doesn't make it any easier to remove the castle for servicing?

Not one bit. That playfield is a PITA to remove for sure. I've probably removed that thing 100 times I could do it in my sleep. Moving the flying monkey down on the screw rod is something I always forget to do.

#312 8 months ago
Quoted from schudel5:

I've probably removed that thing 100 times I could do it in my sleep. Moving the flying monkey down on the screw rod is something I always forget to do.

LOL - yes on both of those for me, too

#313 8 months ago
Quoted from schudel5:

Not one bit. That playfield is a PITA to remove for sure. I've probably removed that thing 100 times I could do it in my sleep. Moving the flying monkey down on the screw rod is something I always forget to do.

Crap... Those upper playfields should have had cable disconnects! Where they thinking these things would never need servicing?

#314 8 months ago
Quoted from Sammy31:

So I'm guessing the 2.0 lighting doesn't make it any easier to remove the castle for servicing?

Removing the castle is quite straight forward, he lays flat on a bunch of screws. I had to do it twice, since I followed the previous instructions where the rescue and gi light are inverted.

The real PITA (as in 2 hours, some sweat, and a bit of anger), is the munchkin playfield. It doesn't come out straight, there is very little room to move it sideways under the right ramp, and it's a weird twisted movement to pass the bat that's there. Same annoyance putting it back, with passing the cables in the holes while trying to lay the pf flat. Long story short, I hated it.

#315 8 months ago
Quoted from adol75:

The real PITA (as in 2 hours, some sweat, and a bit of anger), is the munchkin playfield.

Huh - my Munchkin playfield came up quite easily. Probably only took 10 minutes to remove. Did you make sure the screw that tightens the wireform to the upper playfield was loose? It does take some maneuvering; I could see if that screw was tightened down there would be no way it would have any slack for wiggling.

#316 8 months ago
Quoted from adol75:

Removing the castle is quite straight forward, he lays flat on a bunch of screws. I had to do it twice, since I followed the previous instructions where the rescue and gi light are inverted.
The real PITA (as in 2 hours, some sweat, and a bit of anger), is the munchkin playfield. It doesn't come out straight, there is very little room to move it sideways under the right ramp, and it's a weird twisted movement to pass the bat that's there. Same annoyance putting it back, with passing the cables in the holes while trying to lay the pf flat. Long story short, I hated it.

Agree with this. I also hated dealing with the little rubber standoffs that hold the rainbow plastic on.

#317 8 months ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Agree with this. I also hated dealing with the little rubber standoffs that hold the rainbow plastic on.

I broke both rubber pieces when I pulled them out, luckily JJP was nice enough to send me a couple replacements.

#318 8 months ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Agree with this. I also hated dealing with the little rubber standoffs that hold the rainbow plastic on.

I hate rubber grommets whenever I encounter them, too. I use needle-nose pliers to push and pull them through and, if I am lucky, they survive. I still haven't found a reliable way to deal with them. Any tips from those who are successful with them?

#319 8 months ago
Quoted from PinballCharlie:

I hate rubber grommets whenever I encounter them, too. I use needle-nose pliers to push and pull them through and, if I am lucky, they survive. I still haven't found a reliable way to deal with them. Any tips from those who are successful with them?

That was the nightmare for me during 2.0 install. I tried everything.... really struggled with it

#320 8 months ago
Quoted from PinballCharlie:

I hate rubber grommets whenever I encounter them, too. I use needle-nose pliers to push and pull them through and, if I am lucky, they survive. I still haven't found a reliable way to deal with them. Any tips from those who are successful with them?

I eventually waxed the tip and pushed and twisted to get it in. That worked, but it was only after trying everything else like you and sacrificing a bit of the tip.

#321 8 months ago

I wonder how they install in the factory??

#322 8 months ago

Just finished my upgrade. If anyone is interested in my original 5v boards and all the cables. Nothing was cut during removal. All boards where working before removal.

#323 8 months ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

That was the nightmare for me during 2.0 install. I tried everything.... really struggled with it

If I ever start a German hate metal band, I’ll call it “Rivets and Grommets” since they are the two things that make me the most angry about pinball.

1 month later
#324 6 months ago

I wanted to thank you all for your posted tips. They came in very handy a couple of times. Just finishing up the 2.0 upgrade. I purchased the 2.0 back in Oct 2019 and the only thing missing were the 4 standoffs for the BAG board. I did end up replacing USB Cable 2.0A to MiniB 6ft (19-003100-06) as it drives the lights as I was getting random freezes. I purchased a replacement on Amazon and have been solid since. I will be listing my 7.5 buffered boards for sale in the Marketplace in the next few days. Thanks again!!

#325 6 months ago
Quoted from Parker09:

I wanted to thank you all for your posted tips. They came in very handy a couple of times. Just finishing up the 2.0 upgrade. I purchased the 2.0 back in Oct 2019 and the only thing missing were the 4 standoffs for the BAG board. I did end up replacing USB Cable 2.0A to MiniB 6ft (19-003100-06) as it drives the lights as I was getting random freezes. I purchased a replacement on Amazon and have been solid since. I will be listing my 7.5 buffered boards for sale in the Marketplace in the next few days. Thanks again!!

Congrats! A perfect project for this time of social distancing.

#326 6 months ago
Quoted from Parker09:

I wanted to thank you all for your posted tips. They came in very handy a couple of times. Just finishing up the 2.0 upgrade. I purchased the 2.0 back in Oct 2019 and the only thing missing were the 4 standoffs for the BAG board. I did end up replacing USB Cable 2.0A to MiniB 6ft (19-003100-06) as it drives the lights as I was getting random freezes. I purchased a replacement on Amazon and have been solid since. I will be listing my 7.5 buffered boards for sale in the Marketplace in the next few days. Thanks again!!

What was your total time for the conversion?

Anyone that hasn't done it yet shouldn't be afraid of the conversion. It's not hard or technical, it just takes some time and attention to detail. Fortunately, the instructions have improved since initial release.

#327 6 months ago

I would guess about 14-16 hours over the course of 3 weekends. I did take lots of breaks, along with a few cocktails. And pictures, lots of pics for reference when reconnecting some of the connectors came in handy. The April 2019 instructions were well written and updated. The hardest part was those black rubber standoffs on the rainbow plastics which tore easily, but JJP hooked me up. I would rate it a 3/5 wrenches for difficulty.

#328 6 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Fortunately, the instructions have improved since initial release.

Your help back then was great and helped many.

Thank you !

LTG : )

Posting here to thank and remind people of vireland's help in many things besides the WOZ 2.0

These are pretty raw, I didn't clean them up, but the information is all there. Note the L-bracket and metric screw size you'll need to secure the new switching power supply to the cabinet that aren't included...

General notes:
The part number for the single plug black wires is wrong on the wires. It says 19-3096-09, but the diagram from the current manual (page E-22/23) identifies the short black leads as 19-3096-08. Either the manual or the part needs to be changed so they agree

Somehow I came up short on 1/2" and 3/4" screws by a few. I didn't count at the beginning, so I'm not sure if the amount provided isn't enough, or if my kit just didn't have enough screws in the bags.

Some of the leads are too short for the lighting plugs. I had to move boards at the end of the instructions that I installed near the beginning, and even then a few BARELY had enough wire and too much tension. Lights 3 and 12 specifically. Probably should be made 2" longer at least.

Might want to mention at the beginning that the customer needs to buy a couple small L brackets and two 4-M4 screws plus 2 pan head wood screws for the new switching supply they'll be installing as they're not included in the kit.

Step 6.The warning “DO NOT remove all the large boards at once – if you do...” needs to be at the BEGINNING of the FIRST paragraph after the 6>. Putting it on the second paragraph is too late for awesome people like me. Fortunately (?) I’ve spent so much time with these boards, I can see the placement in my head with my eyes closed, so it was no biggie, but for less confident users, this could be annoying/problematic the way it is now.

Also, on the 2nd paragraph of step 6, you’re asking to use #4 ½” SMS, but the screws are labeled with the PART NUMBER not the SIZE on the bags. So the screws should have the part number listed next to the size (“#4 ½” SMS [82-000004-08]” for example) in the instructions and/or the bags of screws should have the size of the screws printed on them along with the part number.

For step 7, it's a similar suggestion to step 6 beginning to make the warning more clear about removing and replacing one by one in order instead of talking about how to take them all out in order one by one in order so you don't miss one. It becomes more clear after the 2nd paragraph of 7>, but some of that information could be moved to the beginning of 7>.

The second paragraph of step 7 talks about installing single RGB GI board 15-0051-00. This doesn't exist. What's in the kit is part number 15-004151-04, which is a strip of 8 boards you need to snap off into individual boards. This isn't covered in the instructions at all. The packing slip also has the part number listed as 15-004151-04. The only place where it's called 15-0051-00 is on step 7. Also the packing slip says there are 24, when in reality there are 3 strips of 8 you have to break off into 24 pieces, so that's not quite right, either.

Also, on Step 7 it should say something about board 11 that will be dealt with later. Something like "(Calm your titties, board 11 will be replaced in Step 14)"

Step 9 in the instructions needs quite a few changes
The part number on the instructions are 15-0028-00. The part number of the parts in the box are 15-004128-04. Also, the parts in the box need to be snapped apart, which is not discussed in the instructions.
Also:
1- The part number for the 4-40 1/4" screws (80-002104-04) should be added to the instructions, and the screw size should be added to the part bag label for better matching.
2- The part number for the insulating paper (70-009010-00) should be added to the instructions and maybe add "insulator" to the parts bag label for better matching.
3- The part number for the new mounting bracket for the rollovers (10-000155-00) should be added to the instructions and maybe add "rollover bracket" to the parts bag label for better matching.

Step 10
Part number 15-0028-00 is wrong. It should be 15-00428-04. #4 1/2" screws should have part number noted (82-000004-08).

Step 11
Part number 15-0028-00 is wrong. It should be 15-00428-04. #4 1/2" screws should have part number noted (82-000004-08).

Step 12
Terminology is wrong here. It says to use Single GI RGB LED boards, but it's actually talking about using 15-00428-04 RGB LED boards in the just- made GI RGB rollover brackets.

Step 14
Part number 15-0028-00 is wrong. It should be 15-00428-04. #4 1/2" screws should have part number noted (82-000004-08).

Step 15
The part number for the PCB mounting bracket should be noted next to its name in the instructions (10-005035-00)

STEP 18
For Step 18, it's actually better to leave the playfield UP initially until J802 is disconnected because it's at the front of the PCB box, toward the coin door. Once the cable is disconnected and slipped out of the zip ties, THEN lay the playfield down to pull the cord out the back of the PCB box. Also, a copy of the printed diagram from the manual showing WHERE J802 IS would be very helpful, it's kind of hidden by a wad of cables and not easy to find visually. I've attached a screen grab to include with the update.

Also, the instructions say to pull J800, but no word about JUSB next to that, which is also a mini-USB connector. On the Computer CPU board end, both these are wired to the same plug. NOTE: YOU ONLY PULL ONE OF THEM - the J800, even if they're physically connected on the computer board end like they are on early ECLEs.

(The problem is both the JUSB and J800 are the same cable, split into two cables at the header block on the PC motherboard. So the instructions to remove just the J800 is wrong because the best you can do if you have to keep JUSB is to just disconnect J800 since they’re physically the same cable. If you have this configuration, you leave it plugged in on the computer header end and just unplug J800 usb on the other end, leaving the other plugged in.)

STEP 19
Where is the Mini-b end of the 6ft USB cable you connect to the back of the CPU board supposed to be plugged in? J800? JUSB? It doesn't say. Also, the 6ft USB 2.0 to Mini-b cable needs the part number listed (19-003100-06).

2 months later
#329 4 months ago

I want to shout out to PinballCharlie for a great little product. I did a 2.0 swap last night (my second) and really loved the precision his little widget gave with my board alignments.

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