(Topic ID: 224189)

Has anyone installed woz 2.0 yet? I’m about to!


By pinballkyle

8 months ago



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There are 178 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 4.
#151 45 days ago

Success!

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#152 45 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Look at post no. 61. I followed that lead and mounted to the left side.
I hope to finish on Saturday. I only have the munchkin playfield and the data wiring left to go. Keeping my fingers crossed.

Thanks, I figured that cutting that harness loose allows for mounting over there, really appreciate everyone sharing their experiences as this is not a "follow the bouncing ball" ordeal even for someone really used to being under the playfield!

#153 45 days ago
Quoted from DG_Amuse:

Success!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice! I just finished the last of my wiring and fired it up to test with coin door open, two wireforms not re-installed etc. and at when I went into LED test they weren't even close to corresponding to the screen. Then I remembered I hadn't gone from 6.60 to 6.61, quick upgrade, two wires switched and everything looks to be great! Have to finish some clean-up and waxing the top-side, re-install the two wireforms, deploy a crap-ton of cable-ties to the under-side and then start play-testing it. I have Pin Stadiums so it's no issue for me but I do think the GI may indeed be darker now, just really happy I don't have to worry about 1/2 - 3/4 of the LEDs going crazy on us for league kick-off next month!

#154 45 days ago

To add my thoughts suggestions to the already great advice in this thread:

If I were to do this again I think I would do a couple things differently. After replacing all the large boards I would not go replace all the individual boards in order as the instructions have you do it. Instead I would first install the BAG and interface boards in the middle then use the 2.0 wiring diagram in the manual and work from one large board to the next, plugging in the "satellite" cables and replace the individual boards with those cables in place so I could see exactly where to mount the boards, how to route the cable, etc. I'd work from each board in the order the cable progresses, I think that would be simpler and a little cleaner personally.

I'll also add that my kit did not have enough #4-1/2 inch screws and that screws from Home Depot are complete crap, they strip out incredibly easy! There was a bag of smaller #4s but those were never listed as being used in the instructions. The mounting hardware for my power supply was not #8 as the manual lists but rather M4 as Vireland stated, the #8s won't tighten down properly. Lastly I think they should include a new rubber mount for the Rainbow plastic that keeps that light pipe in place, mine very nearly ripped in two while I was taking it apart even though I was trying to be very careful with it.

#155 45 days ago

So, I'm on the fence about this 2.0 system. my WOZ has 7.5 buffered boards and (knock on wood) I haven't had any issues.

The thought of paying $800 plus the time... potential install pitfalls.. of 2.0.... phew. I don't know. Is it really a necessary swap?

#156 45 days ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

So, I'm on the fence about this 2.0 system. my WOZ has 7.5 buffered boards and (knock on wood) I haven't had any issues.
The thought of paying $800 plus the time... potential install pitfalls.. of 2.0.... phew. I don't know. Is it really a necessary swap?

It's not necessary. Until it is. :p Seems that once a board does fail, they'll keep failing, but before then never a problem! Something to keep in mind, the price of the 2.0 board kit will be going up at some point in the near future.

#157 45 days ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

So, I'm on the fence about this 2.0 system. my WOZ has 7.5 buffered boards and (knock on wood) I haven't had any issues.
The thought of paying $800 plus the time... potential install pitfalls.. of 2.0.... phew. I don't know. Is it really a necessary swap?

How long have you had your game? Mine also had the 7.5 buffered boards but after about a year, maybe slightly less, I started having problems. My game is in home but it gets played a lot. My problems started with the GI boards that are closest to the flippers, but as has been noted the biggest issue with this system is that problems with one board can knock out an entire section(s) of the game and that's what was happening with mine. I managed to reflow solder on some of them but it was temporary fix and the problems came back. Then I started losing single colors (usually blue) on individual GI boards so they could no longer produce white, again I was able to temporarily fix them but the problems came back so replaced 5-6 of them. Then last year during my league hosting date I had one fail and send half the inserts into seizure mode, I managed to bypass it long enough to get through the day but that was pretty much the final straw for me. I almost didn't order it even still but then two weeks ago I was about as close to SWOTR as I've been and again the whole thing went bonkers so I shut off the game, grabbed my laptop and ordered the kit.

If you've never had problems you may get lucky and not have to do the swap, but if you plan to keep the game long-term like I do I think it's just a matter of time before you start having problems. At a minimum I'd suggest you buy some spare individual GI boards to keep on hand, I'd over to sell you some of mine but based on my experiences above I'd doubt you'd want them. My large boards have never had a problem so I do plan to sell some of those to recoup the cost of the upgrade.

#158 45 days ago

For me it was easy: either sell or get used to playing with half the lights out. And selling means you stick a buyer with this problem and take a hit on price. For those not having problems, I understand the concern with not making the fix -- "if it ain't broke, why fix it?" My guess is I would not have made the switch if my lights had been even close to reliable. But assuming your luck continues, you will address the issue at the time you sell the game because buyers will ask for the 2.0 kit, assuming it's still available. It's nice to turn on your game knowing all the lights will turn on. And if one does go, knowing it will only result in a single board failure and not half the game.

By the way, I have a box of all the 5v boards, many replaced with buffered boards, that I'll gladly sell for $100. It includes all the old cabling.

#159 45 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

How long have you had your game?

I've owned my WOZ for over 4 years.

Here's a lazy question (I'm sure this info is somewhere):

If I buy the 2.0 kit just to hold onto... is there a solid parts list somewhere that I can use to check for completeness? It would totally suck to buy it and then find out 2 or 3 years down the road that it was missing parts, etc.

I talked to Butch about year or so ago and he told me JJP was stock piling parts/chips for old boards. But, honestly, there's a part of me that wonders if JJP will stay in business long term. IF they fail (for whatever reason), that could create quite a problem.

#160 45 days ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

I've owned my WOZ for over 4 years.
Here's a lazy question (I'm sure this info is somewhere):
If I buy the 2.0 kit just to hold onto... is there a solid parts list somewhere that I can use to check for completeness? It would totally suck to buy it and then find out 2 or 3 years down the road that it was missing parts, etc.
I talked to Butch about year or so ago and he told me JJP was stock piling parts/chips for old boards. But, honestly, there's a part of me that wonders if JJP will stay in business long term. IF they fail (for whatever reason), that could create quite a problem.

I think parts will always be available. Look at any number of pins that no longer have manufacturers around. Look at Alien. Etc and so on.

#161 45 days ago

Good point.

I really struggle with resisting the urge to buy and hold. Grapple with it! At some level, it makes zero sense to fix what isn't broken!

#162 45 days ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

I've owned my WOZ for over 4 years.
Here's a lazy question (I'm sure this info is somewhere):
If I buy the 2.0 kit just to hold onto... is there a solid parts list somewhere that I can use to check for completeness? It would totally suck to buy it and then find out 2 or 3 years down the road that it was missing parts, etc.
I talked to Butch about year or so ago and he told me JJP was stock piling parts/chips for old boards. But, honestly, there's a part of me that wonders if JJP will stay in business long term. IF they fail (for whatever reason), that could create quite a problem.

The kit comes with a packing list you check off to make sure everything is there. However there is no guarantee that you couldn't have a bad board or two in there, see previous post about defective BAG board (which runs the whole lighting kit) OOB.

#163 45 days ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

So, I'm on the fence about this 2.0 system. my WOZ has 7.5 buffered boards and (knock on wood) I haven't had any issues.
The thought of paying $800 plus the time... potential install pitfalls.. of 2.0.... phew. I don't know. Is it really a necessary swap?

It's $800 out of pocket, but if most or all of your current boards are working, you can likely sell a full set of them (and the jumper cables) for around $300 (I did), bringing the total cost to about $500, which is not much more than a color DMD mod. And this is much more valuable.

#164 45 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I'll also add that my kit did not have enough #4-1/2 inch screws and that screws from Home Depot are complete crap, they strip out incredibly easy! There was a bag of smaller #4s but those were never listed as being used in the instructions.

I'm convinced that the instructions are wrong and you use the smaller #4s for many of the steps, otherwise you run out of the 1/2 inch ones. I made note of which steps to use the smaller screws in, and I will provide details when I give my notes, hopefully later this weekend.

#165 45 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

It's $800 out of pocket, but if most or all of your current boards are working, you can likely sell a full set of them (and the jumper cables) for around $300 (I did), bringing the total cost to about $500, which is not much more than a color DMD mod. And this is much more valuable.

Would you mind sharing how you sold yours (here, EBay, etc.)? I now have a bunch of boards and cables but I did not save the large wiring harness. All of my large and single RGB boards work perfectly, I have about 4 bad GI boards but also one brand new one and not really sure if I should try to sell them as a set, individual boards, groups of boards, etc. I would really like to get something back out of them though.

#166 45 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Would you mind sharing how you sold yours (here, EBay, etc.)? I now have a bunch of boards and cables but I did not save the large wiring harness. All of my large and single RGB boards work perfectly, I have about 4 bad GI boards but also one brand new one and not really sure if I should try to sell them as a set, individual boards, groups of boards, etc. I would really like to get something back out of them though.

I just put it up in the pinside marketplace as a set with a listing of what kind and how many boards and noted that it had all the jumper connectors. Sold it in just a few weeks.

#167 44 days ago

Well, I finished, and it works! (Mostly.) Insert muted clapping and celebration.

It appears I have two bad LEDs -- one on the W7 board which is yellow when it should be a different color, and one of the little GI boards which works in test mode but is purple in actual game play when it should be white. I guess I'll email JJP about replacements unless anyone has any ideas of things to try first. Let me know.

When I finished and first flipped the power switch, absolutely nothing happened. I was worried that somehow I disconnected the main power. I checked the connections, and it looked good, so I flipped the switch again. This time, the main power came on and the game booted, but all of the lights were scrambled. I went through the LED test light by light and each switched on in a different location. I turned off the machine and checked my hook up of all the cables. Everything looked good. So, I switched on the machine again, and I guess third times the charm because that time, everything worked as it should (with the exception of the two faulty boards). Anyone know what was going on there?

(I'll post my detailed notes, timeline and tips a little later.)

#168 44 days ago

Here are some thoughts and notes on the overall process as well as specific steps.

General

• In general, this conversion is very doable. Believe me when I say that I’m not very handy, and I often sweat every time I remove something from the playfield. If I can do this, anyone can, so don’t let fear of your own skill set hold you back. Take your time, follow the instructions, ask for help if you have questions, and you’ll be fine.
• Take breaks. I am a strong believer in frequent breaks. They recharge your energy and renew your concentration. I split this up over 7 days (3 weekends), and I probably never did more than 2-3 hours in one sitting. It helps.
• Use a sheet to catch things that may fall. This is in the instructions, but let me repeat it here. USE A SHEET. I had many a screw or spacer that fell into the cabinet, and the sheet was a real time saver.
• I bought a static wrist band which I hooked up to the ground wire when installing the boards. I’m not sure how necessary this was, but it was only $5 on Amazon, so why not. In order for it to work, the game has to be plugged in to the wall outlet. But, keep the power off (obviously)!

Breakdown of My Time

Just in case you are interested in generally how long individual steps take, here is a general breakdown of my time:
• Steps 1-3: 1 hour
• Steps 4-5: 35 minutes
• Step 6: 1 hour
• Step 7: 2 hours
• Steps 8-13: 1 hour, 45 minutes
• Steps 14-19: 1 hour, 30 minutes
• Steps 20-23: 1 hour, 30 minutes (though I was pretty confused during step 21, so this could take less time)
• Step 24: 1 hour, 45 minutes
• Step 25: 1 hour, 30 minutes
• Steps 27-28: 1 hour
• GRAND TOTAL: 14 hours, 5 minutes

Notes on Specific Steps

• Step 2: I found access to some of the GI boards to be pretty tight as I was trying to remove the data cables. If you are having difficulty getting the data cables off of a few of them, there is no harm in waiting until you get to the step involving the actual replacement of the GI boards.
• Step 4: You only disconnect one connector during this step. You do not remove the wire. The instructions say this, but for some reason I was confused.
• Step 6 on: This didn’t occur to me until I had passed this step, but I should have cleaned the inserts from the underside while I was removing the boards. I’ve used a Q-tip and rubbing alcohol for this on other games. It is not necessary, but if you have time, you may want to.
• Steps 8, 10-11: Use the 3/8” screws (part number 82-000004-06), not the 1/2” screws called for in the instructions. If you use the 1/2” screws you will run out. The smaller screws are just fine for these steps, and they are in there for a reason and not used otherwise. I’m convinced that the instructions are wrong.
• Step 21: The Y connector that is referred to is a separate connector from the power harness in your kit. I didn’t realize that right away, and it caused a huge amount of confusion on my part. The instructions were less than clear to me on that part.
• Step 24: Disconnect the red white black power connector for the castle playfield off of the main power harness before removing the castle mini-playfield. You will need it, and it is easier to get while you are disconnecting connectors to prepare for this step.
• Step 25: As was just said earlier in this thread, getting the little rubber standoff into the new WOZ10 board is tough. What eventually worked for me was waxing the tip and pressing it in using a constant twisting motion. Also in this step, you will need to feed the red white black power connector through a hole in the bottom of the munchkin playfield to the board. If you attach it to the board first before feeding it through the hole, you will not be able to get the larger connector through the hole. Finally, your kits comes with new snap rivets. I was confused about how to remove the rainbow plastic until I broke a snap rivet. I don’t feel like the new rivets are on very tight for mine. Perhaps someone who is familiar with this can chime in and offer advice about the proper way to handle the removal of the rainbow plastic given those rivets.

#169 44 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Well, I finished, and it works! (Mostly.) Insert muted clapping and celebration.
It appears I have two bad LEDs -- one on the W7 board which is yellow when it should be a different color, and one of the little GI boards which works in test mode but is purple in actual game play when it should be white. I guess I'll email JJP about replacements unless anyone has any ideas of things to try first. Let me know.
When I finished and first flipped the power switch, absolutely nothing happened. I was worried that somehow I disconnected the main power. I checked the connections, and it looked good, so I flipped the switch again. This time, the main power came on and the game booted, but all of the lights were scrambled. I went through the LED test light by light and each switched on in a different location. I turned off the machine and checked my hook up of all the cables. Everything looked good. So, I switched on the machine again, and I guess third times the charm because that time, everything worked as it should (with the exception of the two faulty boards). Anyone know what was going on there?
(I'll post my detailed notes, timeline and tips a little later.)

Be sure you're running 6.61 and not 6.60.

#170 44 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Be sure you're running 6.61 and not 6.60.

I am, but thank you for checking.

I definitely have a couple of bad boards. I moved the GI board to a different location and got the same issue. It is that one GI board and WOZ7. Kinda ironic considering that I went through this whole process to avoid any more bad boards. Oh well, at least it isn't a board on the castle or munchkin playfields.

#171 40 days ago

I got my two replacement boards today. Great service by JJP -- I emailed them Sunday about the boards and got replacements Wednesday! (Thank you, Shannon!) Now everything is working as it should. Having a couple of faulty boards took a bit of the wind out of my sails when I finished, but I'm still very happy overall with the process and kind of proud of myself for having done it.

#172 40 days ago

Shannan walks on the ground I worship...

#173 40 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I got my two replacement boards today. Great service by JJP -- I emailed then Sunday about the boards and got replacements Wednesday! (Thank you, Shannon!) Now everything is working as it should. Having a couple of faulty boards took a bit of the wind out of my sails when I finished, but I'm still very happy overall with the process and kind of proud of myself for having done it.

Never a doubt sir!

#174 37 days ago

Anyone who has upgraded interested in selling some of the 7.5V little boards? I know I can buy direct from JJP but thought I’d ask here first.

Just PM me if so.

Cheers!

1 week later
#175 29 days ago

I am working on the woz 2.0 update. To help people in the future, the manual says the part number for the data cable to connect the RGB LED boards on the mini playfields is 19-3096-08 but that is incorrect. The correct part number is 19-3096-09.

#176 29 days ago
Quoted from Xenon75:

I am working on the woz 2.0 update. To help people in the future, the manual says the part number for the data cable to connect the RGB LED boards on the mini playfields is 19-3096-08 but that is incorrect. The correct part number is 19-3096-09.

I'd also send this information to Butch at JJP. He has updated the instructions based on feedback before, this seems like a changes that definitely needs to be made.

#177 28 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

I'd also send this information to Butch at JJP. He has updated the instructions based on feedback before, this seems like a changes that definitely needs to be made.

Ok I will send him an email.

A few other thoughts...

Don't hesitate to adjust the zip ties or cut them altogether on the new data/power cables for the 2.0 upgrade. I found that removing the zip ties and occasionally the part # tape allows you to get the leads where they need to go cleanly. Once plugged in, a few new ties on each offshoot keeps the install clean.

To echo the other posters, use the smallest screws (3/8") on the installation of the GI Boards (without spacers) and RGB insert boards. This will leave the correct number of 1/2' screws for the installation of the larger boards on the two mini playfields.

In most cases you don't need to cut the ends of the old data/power cables if you want to preserve them. They work their way out of the harness pretty easily.

To remove the lock nut near castle VUK you will need a 6" 11/32 nut driver or an extension on a socket driver.

Print out a COLOR version of the 2.0 lighting map from the manual. It is essential to see not only the routing of the cabling but the orientation of the boards when mounted to the playfield. I used this page as a guide for installation of each board and I did not have to make a single adjustment when it came time to connect them with the new power/data cables.

Everything else is fairly straight forward or documented in this thread.

#178 26 days ago
Quoted from PinPeet:

Hello all! If you have old spare 5v lightboards around which you do not use anymore, are you willing to share them?
Thanks!

I listed mine in the marketplace and on ebay. I don't have the 2.0 kit yet but I've ordered it so timing might be a bit off but I'm open to talking.

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