Has anyone installed woz 2.0 yet? I’m about to!

(Topic ID: 224189)

Has anyone installed woz 2.0 yet? I’m about to!


By pinballkyle

6 months ago



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  • Latest reply 11 hours ago by pinballinreno
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lightboard159 (resized).jpg
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There are 85 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 4 months ago
Quoted from rviguet:

I have a very early build ECLE (manufacture date of 5/1/2013). I had 2 small boards fail years ago, but all the light boards seem to be working fine since, although my collection sees very little play. Nevertheless, I would like to buy the 2.0 light boards to have them just in case. I don't see them listed in the WOZ parts on the JJP website. Are they only available if you call them? Is there anything different or any problems with switching out my light boards in such an early build machine?

I did the swap in a machine from 8/2013. There were some inconsistencies in the instructions I documented, but overall it wasn't hard, just time-consuming.

You need to call to get on the list. I don't know if they caught up, but I know it was like 3 months or so from the time I signed up for it and it actually came.

#52 4 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

I did the swap in a machine from 8/2013. There were some inconsistencies in the instructions I documented, but overall it wasn't hard, just time-consuming.
You need to call to get on the list. I don't know if they caught up, but I know it was like 3 months or so from the time I signed up for it and it actually came.

They had them in stock a couple weeks ago when I bought mine.

#53 4 months ago
Quoted from finman2000:

They had them in stock a couple weeks ago when I bought mine.

Great information, thanks for sharing it!

#54 4 months ago

I'm in. Shipped and charged immediately. Have the 7.5 buffered in an ECLE, will hold off on the install until something breaks or I'm feeling less lazy I guess

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#55 4 months ago

I don't have any JJP games, but the location I do service calls for has all 4. One is an early build WoZ and they have procured the upgrade kit. Interestingly, they wanted me to upgrade the lighting kit and do a playfield swap at the same time. I felt that was just going to be way to difficult to do at the same time. So it's just the WoZ 2.0 kit at the moment. I can't even fathom trying to do both at the same time.

I have marked this thread as a favorite, as I'm sure I'm going to need to reference it quite often.

#56 4 months ago

I performed the 2.0 upgrade on my ECLE 7.5v machine. Was time-consuming, but not particularly difficult. I recommend using the wiring diagrams in the manual to guide you on where/which orientation to attached the new boards RGB boards. Frankly if you place them where it seems most roomy or logical, in some cases the wiring won't reach and you'll need to relocate.

Two post-upgrade observations have me puzzled.
1. The yellow-brick road inserts without numbers, in the narrower part of the road, are a different shade from the others when lit with some colors.
2. The GI is really dim compared to the inserts. Much more dim than on Dialed In next to it.

I'm running v6.61. LEDs are aligned with the GI light tubes. LED setting is global and turns them all up or down. The insert intensity is fine, just not the GI. Anyone have any thoughts here? Thanks.

#57 4 months ago
Quoted from marl3y:

1. The yellow-brick road inserts without numbers, in the narrower part of the road, are a different shade from the others when lit with some colors.

Those inserts are yellow, all the other inserts are clear.

LTG : )

#58 4 months ago
Quoted from marl3y:

I performed the 2.0 upgrade on my ECLE 7.5v machine. Was time-consuming, but not particularly difficult. I recommend using the wiring diagrams in the manual to guide you on where/which orientation to attached the new boards RGB boards. Frankly if you place them where it seems most roomy or logical, in some cases the wiring won't reach and you'll need to relocate.
Two post-upgrade observations have me puzzled.
1. The yellow-brick road inserts without numbers, in the narrower part of the road, are a different shade from the others when lit with some colors.
2. The GI is really dim compared to the inserts. Much more dim than on Dialed In next to it.
I'm running v6.61. LEDs are aligned with the GI light tubes. LED setting is global and turns them all up or down. The insert intensity is fine, just not the GI. Anyone have any thoughts here? Thanks.

Seems like that's something that could be addressed in the software, and it would be nice. The GI is too dim overall.

#59 4 months ago

Thanks for the responses. The game was new to me, so I didn't have an ingrained memory of if pre-2.0 upgrade. Insert color make complete sense. The GI intensity may a been similar with the 7.5v boards, I guess I don't remember and just noticed the game's GI is generally dark.

#60 4 months ago
Quoted from marl3y:

Thanks for the responses. The game was new to me, so I didn't have an ingrained memory of if pre-2.0 upgrade. Insert color make complete sense. The GI intensity may a been similar with the 7.5v boards, I guess I don't remember and just noticed the game's GI is generally dark.

WOZ is dark.
Most have added 6 or 8 spotlights.

Pinstadium lights work really well on WOZ, they are a hassle but really light it up.

Adding 12v led spots here and there is pretty cheap and effective, or buy one of the lighting kits. They are easy to install.

#61 4 months ago

I recently completed a Woz 2.0 install on my machine with 7.5v buffered boards. Yes, even SOME of the machines with 7.5v buffered boards had issues with board failures. Unfortunately, my machine was one of those. A big thank you to Vireland for all of his great notes. Below are a few additional help notes I thought might help others.

Before powering down the machine to start the install, lower the winged monkey 1/2 way down the track so that it is away from the castle mini playfield.

The direction say to tape the drill bit at 5/16" to prevent the bit from drilling all the way through the playfield. The tape has a tendency to creep backward after several uses. A safer way to do this is to use a bit stop collar. Here is a link to a set Home Depot sells. https://www.homedepot.com/p/POWERTEC-1-8-in-3-16-in-1-4-in-5-16-in-3-8-in-7-16-in-1-2-in-Split-Ring-Stop-Collar-7-Piece-71199/307712516

In Step 2 the instructions refer to the data cables as black in color. My data cables were Grey. I'm assuming the 5v data cables were probably black.

In Step 7 the part # for the nylon spacer is 94-005204-12 and the #4 x 3/4" phillips SMS screw is 82-000004-12.

In Step 11 the RGB LED Single Board is now Part #15-0028-01. Vireland's kit had Part #15-00428-04

In step 17 it says to check the voltage of the power supply. Please make sure you do this. Mine was set to 220V. Also, it says to attach the power supply to the back wall of the cabinet. If you have the 7.5v boards you will notice there is not enough room to mount the power supply to the back wall. I found that the best place to install the power supply was on the left side wall in the rear as pictured below.power supply (resized).jpg

Below are the brackets and machine screws I purchased from Home Depot to mount the power supply. I couldn't find short enough machine screws, so I cut them shorter with the bolt cutter slots of my wire strippers. screwsandbraces (resized).jpg

In Step 20 it says to disconnect an existing 3-pin Molex AC power connection in the back of the lower cabinet. For the 7.5v machines you will not have a connector in the back of the machine. Use one of the 3 pin molex connectors running down the right side of the cabinet. molexconnect (resized).jpg

As Vireland pointed out in his notes, some of the wire runs are just barely long enough to reach the various locations. The boards that I ran into issues with, or thought were very tight, I took pictures so you can see the optimal locations. The pictures that have the phillips head screw bit in them indicate the optimal location for the board, even though where I mounted them will just barely reach. I hope that makes sense?
lightboard159 (resized).jpg

If anyone runs into issues when installing their light boards, feel free to PM me and I will help you the best I can. Good luck!

lightboard155 (resized).jpglightboard12 (resized).jpglightboard6 (resized).jpglight board 28 (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#62 3 months ago

I wish I had read all of Gwpin and finman2000 notes prior to performing the upgrades.

Mine took longer because I also replaced the rubber rings and cleaned the playfield. And I removed all cables without cutting the wires.

I also found that if I installed the GI boards as shown in the included diagram, then the connectors reached just fine. Of course, I discovered that after I went to connect them.

What has me annoyed is that the game is now darker than it was. The inserts are brighter and can be turned way up. But with my 7.5 V boards, if I increased the insert LEDs, the GI lights got brighter also. With WOZ 2.0, the GI lights do not increase nor decrease in brightness but they seem stuck on low brightness. Yes I played with positioning vs. the light tubes.

When I called JJP, they seemed surprised about my comment on GI brightness adjustment, but I confirmed that they do not increase with LED menu adjustments. I was told that in newer JJP games, GI brightness is a separate adjustment.

I guess they forgot to add that option in WOZ when they updated the software to work with WOZ 2.0.

I am looking forward to their response to my inquiry. Am hoping a quick and dirty, copy and paste of the GI adjustment software to WOZ will solve this problem. [Nothing is quick with software.]

In the meantime, I purchased an aftermarket LED lighting kit for the back of the playfield and the outhole. It works to make the game brighter but practically ruins the beautiful LED color show by not being in sync with the game. I do not recommend it.

#63 3 months ago
Quoted from lhammer610:

I wish I had read all of Gwpin and finman2000 notes prior to performing the upgrades.
Mine took longer because I also replaced the rubber rings and cleaned the playfield. And I removed all cables without cutting the wires.
I also found that if I installed the GI boards as shown in the included diagram, then the connectors reached just fine. Of course, I discovered that after I went to connect them.
What has me annoyed is that the game is now darker than it was. The inserts are brighter and can be turned way up. But with my 7.5 V boards, if I increased the insert LEDs, the GI lights got brighter also. With WOZ 2.0, the GI lights do not increase nor decrease in brightness but they seem stuck on low brightness. Yes I played with positioning vs. the light tubes.
When I called JJP, they seemed surprised about my comment on GI brightness adjustment, but I confirmed that they do not increase with LED menu adjustments. I was told that in newer JJP games, GI brightness is a separate adjustment.
I guess they forgot to add that option in WOZ when they updated the software to work with WOZ 2.0.
I am looking forward to their response to my inquiry. Am hoping a quick and dirty, copy and paste of the GI adjustment software to WOZ will solve this problem. [Nothing is quick with software.]
In the meantime, I purchased an aftermarket LED lighting kit for the back of the playfield and the outhole. It works to make the game brighter but practically ruins the beautiful LED color show by not being in sync with the game. I do not recommend it.

Are you running older software?

Newer WOZ games should be the same as yours with updated software.

#64 3 months ago

My thoughts after the 2.0 upgrade are exactly the same as lhammer610. GI is way too dark. Game was generally dark with the 7.5v boards, but even darker with the 2.0 upgrade. I can also confirm I haven't found a way to increase the intensity of the GI independent of the inserts (which are perfect brightness). Also running v6.61. Toying with a Pinstadium-like approach to brighten things up, but my strong preference would be for the ability to boost the game's GI and use the programmed colors.

#65 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Are you running older software?
Newer WOZ games should be the same as yours with updated software.

I am running 6.61 as directed in the instructions.

I do not know what versions might support WOZ 2.0, but my understanding is that WOZ 2.0 will not work at all with earlier software.

#66 3 months ago
Quoted from marl3y:

My thoughts after the 2.0 upgrade are exactly the same as lhammer610. GI is way too dark. Game was generally dark with the 7.5v boards, but even darker with the 2.0 upgrade. I can also confirm I haven't found a way to increase the intensity of the GI independent of the inserts (which are perfect brightness). Also running v6.61. Toying with a Pinstadium-like approach to brighten things up, but my strong preference would be for the ability to boost the game's GI and use the programmed colors.

Not sure I know what the 'Pinstadium - like approach' is.

I was wondering how much more current the power to the GI supply can stand. I was thinking of buying more GI boards and attaching them to the underside of the cabinet, then connecting them (somehow - connectors? what are they? where can I buy them?) to an existing GI feed. That way the color and brightness would match the GI's in the rest of the pin. But I don't want to blow out my new WOZ 2.0 boards.

If that is unworkable, come up with some sort of above the playfield installation list standard LED bulbs, connected to the WOZ 2.0 GI system.

But the best fix would be for JJP to incorporate GI brightness control.

#67 3 months ago
Quoted from lhammer610:

Not sure I know what the 'Pinstadium - like approach' is.
I was wondering how much more current the power to the GI supply can stand. I was thinking of buying more GI boards and attaching them to the underside of the cabinet, then connecting them (somehow - connectors? what are they? where can I buy them?) to an existing GI feed. That way the color and brightness would match the GI's in the rest of the pin. But I don't want to blow out my new WOZ 2.0 boards.
If that is unworkable, come up with some sort of above the playfield installation list standard LED bulbs, connected to the WOZ 2.0 GI system.
But the best fix would be for JJP to incorporate GI brightness control.

It has been a while since I really messed with this part of WOZ but the "GI" boards are all part of the same strings as the insert lights. IIRC the only GI that runs off a separate power source are the spotlights so I don't know how you would have new GI boards that used that power but were color controlled by the string. I have a set of Pin Stadiums on mine so I no longer have to worry about the lack of GI which is an issue with all boardsets on this game if you play in a dark room IMO.

#68 3 months ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

It has been a while since I really messed with this part of WOZ but the "GI" boards are all part of the same strings as the insert lights. IIRC the only GI that runs off a separate power source are the spotlights so I don't know how you would have new GI boards that used that power but were color controlled by the string. I have a set of Pin Stadiums on mine so I no longer have to worry about the lack of GI which is an issue with all boardsets on this game if you play in a dark room IMO.

The lights in WOZ 2.0 are setup differently from the original generations of LEDs in the game. There is a new power supply, but the connectors for the GI lights still come from the main boards. These main boards still have non-replaceable fuses in them. If I were to pursue adding GI lights, I would be pulling some more power through those boards and do not want to blow those fuses.

And unlike pre-2.0 lights, the GI brightness does not change with the insert brightness via menu.

I am not familiar with Pin Stadium lights, so I searched for their website. There is not a whole lot of information there about what it is. I found some pictures of before and after for WOZ. Their website is not very good about describing what their product does nor what a 'GI Module' does nor when it is needed. Their 'About' page is verbose with little specific information. Lousy marketing.

What I do not want is just 'dumb' lights that do not sync with the game. I can buy strips of LEDs and install them. I want is something that changes color and intensity in sync with the game. The color changes and bright / dark modes add a lot to WOZ. The ones I purchased that go under the back of the cabinet and outhole fight what WOZ is doing - just staying on and, the back, randomly changing color - 'dumb' lighting which is not WOZ computer controlled.

What I want are brighter existing GIs or lamps that change in sync with the GIs.

JJP has been great in supporting their products. I am hoping that they come through with a software adjustment of the GIs.

#69 3 months ago
Quoted from lhammer610:

What I do not want is just 'dumb' lights that do not sync with the game.

Check out Youtube, search for WOZ Pinstadium. Lots of videos so you can see what they all do.

Here is one of my WOZ with them :

LTG : )

#70 3 months ago
Quoted from lhammer610:

The lights in WOZ 2.0 are setup differently from the original generations of LEDs in the game. There is a new power supply, but the connectors for the GI lights still come from the main boards. These main boards still have non-replaceable fuses in them. If I were to pursue adding GI lights, I would be pulling some more power through those boards and do not want to blow those fuses.
And unlike pre-2.0 lights, the GI brightness does not change with the insert brightness via menu.
I am not familiar with Pin Stadium lights, so I searched for their website. There is not a whole lot of information there about what it is. I found some pictures of before and after for WOZ. Their website is not very good about describing what their product does nor what a 'GI Module' does nor when it is needed. Their 'About' page is verbose with little specific information. Lousy marketing.
What I do not want is just 'dumb' lights that do not sync with the game. I can buy strips of LEDs and install them. I want is something that changes color and intensity in sync with the game. The color changes and bright / dark modes add a lot to WOZ. The ones I purchased that go under the back of the cabinet and outhole fight what WOZ is doing - just staying on and, the back, randomly changing color - 'dumb' lighting which is not WOZ computer controlled.
What I want are brighter existing GIs or lamps that change in sync with the GIs.
JJP has been great in supporting their products. I am hoping that they come through with a software adjustment of the GIs.

I'll try not to derail this with too much Pin Stadium talk but they are two sets of LED rails that mount, via magnets on the sides of the game, just under the glass channel and are controlled by a module that sits in the cabinet. Each rail has a strip of custom made warm white alternating with RGB LEDs. The app controls the color of the RGB and the brightness of the RGB and Warm White separately. The optional GI module allows them to go on and off with the GI but the color cannot be controlled that way. The optional flasher module which intersperses Flasher (you choose the color of the flasher when you order) LEDs in the strip can be hooked up to only a few spots on WOZ (because there's really only one flasher and that's for the Witch). Pre 2.0 the GI module did some really cool integration with the game but in the videos that LTG posted of them on WOZ with 2.0 that stuff doesn't happen anymore. This is either good or bad depending on how you look at it. If you just use them to provide better GI and don't crank them up too high the overall lighting effects in the game still look really great. Here is a short video I shot of mine with the GI and UV Glow Flasher Module on my WOZRR (non 2.0):

/Pin Stadium discussion

#71 3 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Check out Youtube, search for WOZ Pinstadium. Lots of videos so you can see what they all do.
Here is one of my WOZ with them :
LTG : )

Quoted from bobukcat:

The optional GI module allows them to go on and off with the GI but the color cannot be controlled that way. The optional flasher module which intersperses Flasher (you choose the color of the flasher when you order) LEDs in the strip can be hooked up to only a few spots on WOZ (because there's really only one flasher and that's for the Witch). Pre 2.0 the GI module did some really cool integration with the game but in the videos that LTG posted of them on WOZ with 2.0 that stuff doesn't happen anymore.

Thanks for the videos.

That the Pinstadium lights stay on during the 'dark mode' of the 2.0 game is exactly what I do not want.

I might, grudgingly, find them acceptable if they would turn on, brighten and dim with the GIs, even if they do not follow the color. This is what they do in bobukcat's game.
Great. Do I rip out 2.0 and put back in the 7 V lamps? Of course not.

In a perfect world, I would like them to mimic the GI's 100%.

#72 3 months ago
Quoted from lhammer610:

Thanks for the videos.
That the Pinstadium lights stay on during the 'dark mode' of the 2.0 game is exactly what I do not want.
I might, grudgingly, find them acceptable if they would turn on, brighten and dim with the GIs, even if they do not follow the color. This is what they do in bobukcat's game.
Great. Do I rip out 2.0 and put back in the 7 V lamps? Of course not.
In a perfect world, I would like them to mimic the GI's 100%.

I thought the same but if you look the GI lights do NOT go out during lights out mode, only the inserts lights do. So the P.S. actually mimics GI better in 2.0 than in older versions. In the older versions it dims or goes out completely in all of the C.B. mode, munchkin modes and even during battle the witch and probably others I'm not thinking of right now. This is what I meant when I said it's a matter of opinion if the integration in this game is a good thing or bad thing. Regardless I think it's very well done and nearly a must have for WOZ unless it's in a very well lit room, not everyone agrees of course. Good luck with your quest, perhaps the wizard will grant your request!

#73 3 months ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I thought the same but if you look the GI lights do NOT go out during lights out mode, only the inserts lights do. So the P.S. actually mimics GI better in 2.0 than in older versions. In the older versions it dims or goes out completely in all of the C.B. mode, munchkin modes and even during battle the witch and probably others I'm not thinking of right now. This is what I meant when I said it's a matter of opinion if the integration in this game is a good thing or bad thing. Regardless I think it's very well done and nearly a must have for WOZ unless it's in a very well lit room, not everyone agrees of course. Good luck with your quest, perhaps the wizard will grant your request!

I stand corrected. But those PS lights should dim. When I look at Lloyd's, it stays football stadium bright during the dark modes. Not my preference.

I like my room dim, so I am going to do something. The drain and back under the cabinet lights help, but still harm the game light effect. Maybe I will move those to another game and try PS?

Thanks, bobukcat and LTG for all that info on PS lights. If JJP does not straighten things out with the GI's on WOZ 2.0, it will be an option for me. Given JJP great track record of game support, I am hopeful.

I wish PS website had more information about operation of their mod. I would like to see more about controls / brightness levels / operation / setup. Videos can be misleading because camera's adjust to the lowest light level, but as they look in the videos, they are too bright.

1 week later
#74 3 months ago

I just got off the phone with JJP tech. They are very nice to spend so much time with me.

I have been informed that although the software does not change the brightness of the GI's, they are at full power and cannot be made brighter.

I cannot compare the 7.5V GI's and 2.0 side by side, but I swear that these new GI's are not as bright as the old ones. I have tried every physical orientation on the light tubes. The GI light under the slingshot is not nearly as bright as an insert LED off one of the boards, even when the LEDs are set to the lowest setting. That may be due to using the light tube for the GIs?

At this point, I might:

- Give up.
- Try modifying the light tubes (shining up the bottom?) to transmit more light.
- See if I can get a RGB lamp in shape of a bulb to hook up in place of these GI's and the lamp tube (not seeing any).

I have noticed that when the GI boards are screwed into the playfield, that they 'bow' a little bit. Perhaps this prevents the full brightness of the LED from shining up the tube? I thought I checked this but will revisit.

Being stubborn, I was thinking of taking measurements to the GI LEDs and the board LEDs to compare the voltages. Not sure if a DVM will suffice or I have to break out the scope?

The GI boards appear to use the same "LED, SMT, high power RGB 624/527/470 nm" as the main boards.
[As an aside, I think it is interesting that the resistor in series with the red is 75 ohms, while the others are 18 - to balance the color I expect?]

#75 3 months ago

Just finished installing the 2.0 kit today. I think vireland did a great job correcting any discrepancies with the instructions that came with the kit. So I printed out his notes as well as the data/rgb cable routing from the manual to have at the workbench.

It took me around 12 hours to remove the old lighting/cables and install the new lighting. I would say I could probably do it again in half the time. I think the most time consuming part was installing the GI boards. Some are just tough to get a drill in there. Then trying to balance the board, spacer and screw with one hand and a screwdriver in the other. Don't drop or lose screws because they don't give you any extras.

They only issues I ran into was my BAG board didn't have standoffs installed and there were none in the kit, so I had to dig around in my stash of stuff to come up with some spacers.

I didn't realize at first that the part number on the colored rgb cables correspond to the catalog numbers in the manual. You'll need a color printout of the diagram in the manual as it shows colors at the end of the cables that correspond to the colors of the wires for that connector.

2 months later
#76 38 days ago

Halfway into the upgrade.....so far, so good...lol

#77 34 days ago

Finished the 2.0 upgrade, just waiting on 1 board to be replaced before I fire it up. Yes, I know the idea was for everything to work independent, but I don't want to tempt fate so I will wait.

Like others I probably have 10 to 12 hours in the conversion, and although I don't think I could cut that to 6 hours, I could probably shave off a couple now that I know what I am doing. Seems like the instructions are a bit better than others have noted here, so maybe JJ folks took note. I can also tell you I had no problem with cables reaching anywhere, but as someone suggested earlier, I placed all of the boards exactly as laid out in the provided diagrams. I had one board (the big one that looks like a fish) that had a bad capacitor on it that I noticed right away. the capacitor had been bent over during shipment, and a leg was broken off. JJ has a new one on the way with no issue...crap happens. Several of the circuit boards were also missing the standoffs, so I had to shorten some of the original standoffs to fit. It was an easy fix, but it did take time. I am fairly technical, and this was a little challenging, but not a technical type of challenge...it was more of a 'not wanting to tear in and cut cables on a 9K game' type of challenge, and a 'this is going to take forever' type of challenge. But I pushed through with what I hope will be a successful ending.

Probably my biggest complaint is the mounting of the GI lights. I contacted JJ and made a suggestion for a fix, so we will see if they think it is worth the effort. Basically, those little boards are held to the playfield with one screw and you tighten the led against the bottom of the acrylic rod to hold everything in place. If you are too loose, the board will vibrate and eventually swivel out of the way and the light rod will fall out of the playfield......too tight and the solder connections on the led or the board itself will break. I am going to order some extras to have on hand just in case they break over time. The fix is simply to widen the board a bit for 2 small screws to hold it to the playfield like the insert light boards. This way the board will never swing and you don't have to tighten it so tight against the acrylic rod. Gravity will hold the rod against the led and you never have to worry about breaking anything. So something like 14 more screws and plastic spacers, and a small change to the board design would go a long way in my book. Hopefully the replacement board will be here tonight and I can fire her back up. Thanks everyone for all of the tips and suggestions. I would say the most important tip was to make sure you lay out everything EXACTLY like it is on the diagram....it will save you a lot of headaches. if you are NOT a mechanical person, I would advise you not to tackle the change alone, and to find someone that is to help you.

1 week later
#78 24 days ago

If anyone has done the conversion and has working 7.5v boards I would be in the market to buy them from you. Thanks

#79 20 days ago

Just finished doing the 2.0 upgrade on an early build LE (#51). Had some issues at the end. It turned out the JUSB connection to the CPU did not work and ended up using a different (spare) port. Lloyd and Butch Peel helped me through it. I have nothing but positive things to say about both of those guys -- and JJP's support. To JJP's credit, they knew the lighting system was a problem, and they offered a real and stable solution. They are making no money on that kit. Not to mention the labor in packing the materials and supporting the owners who, like me, have no engineering or mechanical background and no clue. My law degree and education helped me buy the pin, but it's not helpful in maintaining it.

I have all my old lights (not sure if they are the 5 or 7.5 boards). I'll post some pictures. Glad to know have stable lights.

2 weeks later
#80 5 days ago

Hello all! If you have old spare 5v lightboards around which you do not use anymore, are you willing to share them?
Thanks!

#81 5 days ago
Quoted from finman2000:

The direction say to tape the drill bit at 5/16" to prevent the bit from drilling all the way through the playfield. The tape has a tendency to creep backward after several uses. A safer way to do this is to use a bit stop collar. Here is a link to a set Home Depot sells. https://www.homedepot.com/p/POWERTEC-1-8-in-3-16-in-1-4-in-5-16-in-3-8-in-7-16-in-1-2-in-Split-Ring-Stop-Collar-7-Piece-71199/307712516

Will that 1/8" bit stop collar fit the 1/16" bit that the directions call for? Forgive me for asking. I've never used one.

#82 5 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Will that 1/8" bit stop collar fit the 1/16" bit that the directions call for? Forgive me for asking. I've never used one.

Yes, though the drill bit may wobble since it will be off set. At slow speed you won't notice.

Or measure drill bit to how much drill you need, wrap a lot of tape above that mark around the drill bit. Don't go farther than the tape.

LTG : )

#83 5 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Yes, though the drill bit may wobble since it will be off set. At slow speed you won't notice.
Or measure drill bit to how much drill you need, wrap a lot of tape above that mark around the drill bit. Don't go farther than the tape.
LTG : )

Thanks. I was just trying to prevent the tape from bunching up by using something more solid.

#84 5 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I was just trying to prevent the tape from bunching up by using something more solid.

A collar can slip too, or screw up and down the drill bit. No matter what you do. Pay attention to what you are doing, and you'll be fine.

LTG : )

#85 11 hours ago
Quoted from LTG:

A collar can slip too, or screw up and down the drill bit. No matter what you do. Pay attention to what you are doing, and you'll be fine.
LTG : )

Use 2 collars on the bit.

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