Yes. Not me, though.

I would buy a new Jones plug and solder the wires to that. If the wires are too short, that’s another story.

Yes, Bally Eight Ball

do you have the schematics... that is going to be your best friend

And a multi meter!

I once started a job where the first thing I had to do was put an engine in a Chevy van. The guy who took it out who was now in jail had cut every wire instead of disconnecting them. It wasn't easy, but I got it done.

Yes
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinball-horror-pics/page/7#post-2620737

Fixed it, spent too much time on soldering wires, parted out the machine in the end anyway..

It would have to be in excellent condition or a super rare game. For me to even consider buying something like that.

O'yeah, I remember this one we'll. Every single wire through the neck was cut on this Eight Ball Deluxe.

John
P5170518 (resized).JPG

If the female side of the Jones plug is present in the back box, you should be able to just solder the wires back into a replacement male Jones plug with the same wire colors and sequence. Like someone else said, this is assuming the wires are not too short.

I can't find it, but I saw something on one of the threads where someone had used a military phone connection main line plug to patch cut cords like this. This provided a quick disconnect while being waterproof, dust proof, and relatively easy to work.

Could be worse.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-275-el-doh-rah-no

Might start by contacting this guy.

Been there a couple of times. While it will take some time it's not really all that hard. A schematic, meter and patience will be a big help.

It looks like you'll need connectors (either EM style jones connectors or more modern Molex connectors), extensions for each wire and heat shrink tubing. You might start by picking a type and location for the connector and then extending each wire to reach the connector with some slack to spare. I'd twist, solder and heat shrink the extensions to the wires although crimp style butt connectors would work if done properly. Then pick out, verify (with the schematic and meter) and install the obvious wire color pairs into matching parts of the connectors.

To verify a match, jumper the loose ends together then ohm out a point in the cabinet against a point in the head. For example check that the resistance between a 10 point target on the playfield and a solder lug on the 10 point relay in the head is an ohm or less. Once you're sure you've got the right ends jumpered together install them in the connectors. Then reverify the same two end points to make sure that the connection through the connector is good.

If you're lucky you'll be able to visually match up most of the wires and what will remain will be a smaller number of faded wires to sort out. Those may take a couple of guesses to find the match but each match will make the remaining matches easier to find.

Don't commit anything to the connector without first verifying that the appropriate end points are electrically connected because debugging a problem created by a mismatched pair is much harder than verifying that the matched pair is correct.

/Mark

Mil spec connector:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/worst-hackrepair-you-ever-saw/page/40#post-4830716

I’d use modern molex connector plugs.
—
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

I consider myself lucky. Never ran into that.

I'd go with modern Molex too. You can make your higher power lines (lamps, etc) doubled up by using 2 pins.

I hate butt splices and I'm the anal person that pulls the plastic off the spade connectors and solders them instead of crimping. Then I heat shrink over them leaving the tip unshrunk for easy connecting.

Pulling a spade apart and having the wire come out makes me made. Plus, most people never crimp them properly.

Mr T (resized).jpg

And I pity you - that's a lot of work to restore correctly. Good luck!

In the end it will be worth it unlike me trying to fix up my oldest brother’s hand me down, ragged out 1978 Ford Granada.

There's a special place in hell for people who do that.

It's easier on games like the Eight Ball Deluxe above that have plastic wire insulation. On EMs it can be a dog because the cloth insulation fades and figuring what the hell is what can be tough.

I just worked on a game where it had been done and then fixed. I couldn't get it going. I was not real confident all the wires were correct.

That was a pic I posted of my Williams Argosy. It was a screw down terminal style connector from the 70’s. I still own it and it still works. Was hours and hours of finding which red wire went where... there were multiple wires that were the same color!

I've just bought an Abra Ca Dabra where all the wires to the backbox Jones plugs had been cut and put back together with crimp connectors, the bonus wasn't working and there were other faults I couldn't track down, in the end I checked the cables and found that two similar wires had been transposed, I am going to tidy it up and was thinking of soldering and heat shrink sleeving the wires and then cable lacing over the repaired harness, I may put a large heat shrink sleeve on the harness first, so I can put that over the repair if the lacing doesn't work out.
It is all very annoying!

use these, or similar, they are amazing!
https://www.amazon.com/XUUAP-Connectors-Waterproof-Automotive-Electrical/dp/B07X5L7FTS/ref=asc_df_B07X5L7FTS/

Nice