check voltage at TP1 on your rectifier board. should be around 5.4V.
(Topic ID: 265568)
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Harlem Globetrotters On Tour
Bally, 1979
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Quoted from pindude80:Might be onto something here, no voltage at TP1 on rectifier board.
That means BR1 is likely bad. I would replace the bridge rectifier or replace the board with a Weebly board if it's in any condition other than good. They're cheap enough at $35 for the kit or $55 assembled, shipped.
Quoted from pindude80:After seeing no voltage on TP1 I got to thinking that a bridge probably went bad also. My buddy just did a full overhaul on the board less than a year ago and it worked great up until now. I will pull the board and see if I see a bad solder joint or something like that. I looked around on pinwiki on how to test the bridges on the rectifier board but didn't see any tests so I'll google around to see if i can find something.
If he didnt replace the bridges, they might have just gone bad. That's what they do, they will work one day, then not work the next.
Apparently you can test them in diode mode with the game off. I would imagine if it was working, you would get a reading in one direction but not in the other direction. If you get the same reading in both directions, it's bad. I've not had to test one myself, so just going off of how I've tested other diodes.
Quoted from pindude80:I bought a rebuild kit from Big Daddy that included all of the bridges. He installed all of the bridges as well as the rest of the components in the kit. I tested the bridges last night and sure enough BR1 is bad. I don't remember having any problems with BR1 before the rebuild so I'm hoping it failed because it's a cheap chinese part and that something in the game didn't cause the bridge to fail. I'm going to get a replacement, install it and see what happens!
Thanks to everyone for the helpful posts!
I would spend the $35 for the kit from Weebly. The heatsinks on the bridges are hefty and the traces are huge. You won't have to worry about changing that board out for at least another 40 yrs.
Quoted from pindude80:I replaced BR1 last night and I have over 5vdc at TP1 again on the rectifier board and the control lights are working again. I played a few games, no issues. I left the game on in attract mode for about an hour and the control lights were still on. I hope it was just a flaky bridge, knock on wood, but time will tell I guess.
Thanks again for the info guys and helping me get this narrowed down and fixed!
Glad it's working! There are heat issues on those bridges, so I wouldnt be surprised if it goes bad on you again in time. For long term reliability, I'd get a Weebly board and not have to worry about it again.
Quoted from pindude80:Thanks I just hope it stays working. I installed the upgraded bridge that pinwiki calls for. Just for my knowledge, do they have heat issues also or are you referring to the factory bridge types? If it goes out again I will much more than likely go the weebly route.
I'm pretty sure any Bally that I've owned got a new Weebly board because the original Bally board had one issue or other. I'm not sure about the different bridge types to be honest. Again, the new boards are so inexpensive that it doesnt take much for me to replace the old ones.
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